As the year comes to an end,and my time runs out,today,I installed the bigger BMW booster to my bus.
It is not something that is a needed to convert a t3/t25 to Subaru power but,with Audi ventilated,twin spot calipers,coming early next year,the BMW booster is the largest standard fit you will squeeze under the instruments.
I had already felt better pedal pressure since the engine conversion.(suspect better engine vaccum).
I can report that with the bigger 10'' BMW booster,I have a lower pedal but,I have about 20% more braking with the same pedal effort with the VW 9''er.
The booster came from a 80,s to 90,s model 3 series BMW.
To get it in there,remove your VW one first.
From the BMW booster, 25mm has to be cut off the threaded rod,(to the pedal).
The original VW clevis has to be drilled and tapped(M10x1.5).Run a die down the thread.
Adjust the clevis,down the threaded rod,to 111.5mm from the centre of the clevis pin to the booster mounting face.This is very important to get the right amount of free play.
To get to the booster, the instrument panel is removed,master cylinder removed,then the pedal box is unbolted.I also removed the clutch slave from the pedal box,so I could pull the booster up higher.
Two people can make this job easier.
I have AC.3mm was trimmed from some plastic.
Not a job to take on for something to do.
Pulls up much better at low speed and better again 100+.
Hardy Spicer driveshaft,with bigger common unis and slip yoke vibrated at first.Returned to Hardys for another check and balance.Fitted and tested Ok.
Front Cvs replaced with the 'last ones' Lobro inners,cleaned and repacked outers.All cluncks and knocks stopped.
It sure is a great feeling driving a freshly powered and serviced AWD vehicle.
I lenghtened the skid plate 50mm, and some plates have been cut to bolt to the skid plate,to protect the sump,trans and drive shaft.
Photos up soon.
It is not something that is a needed to convert a t3/t25 to Subaru power but,with Audi ventilated,twin spot calipers,coming early next year,the BMW booster is the largest standard fit you will squeeze under the instruments.
I had already felt better pedal pressure since the engine conversion.(suspect better engine vaccum).
I can report that with the bigger 10'' BMW booster,I have a lower pedal but,I have about 20% more braking with the same pedal effort with the VW 9''er.
The booster came from a 80,s to 90,s model 3 series BMW.
To get it in there,remove your VW one first.
From the BMW booster, 25mm has to be cut off the threaded rod,(to the pedal).
The original VW clevis has to be drilled and tapped(M10x1.5).Run a die down the thread.
Adjust the clevis,down the threaded rod,to 111.5mm from the centre of the clevis pin to the booster mounting face.This is very important to get the right amount of free play.
To get to the booster, the instrument panel is removed,master cylinder removed,then the pedal box is unbolted.I also removed the clutch slave from the pedal box,so I could pull the booster up higher.
Two people can make this job easier.
I have AC.3mm was trimmed from some plastic.
Not a job to take on for something to do.
Pulls up much better at low speed and better again 100+.
Hardy Spicer driveshaft,with bigger common unis and slip yoke vibrated at first.Returned to Hardys for another check and balance.Fitted and tested Ok.
Front Cvs replaced with the 'last ones' Lobro inners,cleaned and repacked outers.All cluncks and knocks stopped.
It sure is a great feeling driving a freshly powered and serviced AWD vehicle.
I lenghtened the skid plate 50mm, and some plates have been cut to bolt to the skid plate,to protect the sump,trans and drive shaft.
Photos up soon.