FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Sarter Motor

1
All,
Ok, to get to the nub of the issue, looks like I need to rework my previous question, so here goes ...

Is there a simple/doable workaround procedure to remove/reinstall the diflock actuator and its bracket without tilting down the engine/transaxle unit first?
Cheers.
Ken




-----Original Message-----
From: bencroft96 <bencroft96@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, 9 May 2010 8:37 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Sarter Motor



[The entire original message is not included]
2
Hey Ken,
                 Sounds like my non diff  lock kombi is what you need end of problem. Straight swap for your hard to work on Tracker.
                                                                   Regards Pete <Montville Qld>
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
Date: 9/05/2010 11:12:36 AM
Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Sarter Motor
 
All,
Ok, to get to the nub of the issue, looks like I need to rework my previous question, so here goes ...
 
Is there a simple/doable workaround procedure to remove/reinstall the diflock actuator and its bracket without tilting down the engine/transaxle unit first?
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: bencroft96 <bencroft96@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, 9 May 2010 8:37 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Sarter Motor
 
 
 
[The entire original message is not included]
 
 
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3
Ken,
The actuator bracket can be removed without tilting the engine/transaxle.
The steps that I employed are;

1. Detach the drive shaft at the transaxle and swing it out of the way.
2. Remove the plastic actuator unit - unscrew the 2 thin bolts holding the
unit in its bracket and tap out the rolled pin at the actuating shaft.
3. Remove the cir clip around the boss of the housing and unscrew the 2
bolts that fasten the bracket to the transaxle housing.

This works without much difficulty.
Yurik


-----Original Message-----
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Sunday, 9 May 2010 9:12 AM
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Sarter Motor

All,
Ok, to get to the nub of the issue, looks like I need to rework my previous
question, so here goes ...

Is there a simple/doable workaround procedure to remove/reinstall the
diflock actuator and its bracket without tilting down the engine/transaxle
unit first?
Cheers.
Ken




-----Original Message-----
From: bencroft96 <bencroft96@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, 9 May 2010 8:37 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Sarter Motor



[The entire original message is not included]


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
4
Pete,
How come they let you out of Abu Dabi? Maybe you threatened to throw at security that cactus VC of yours haha
 
While you were away there were a squillion camper syncros for sale here ...... bad timing eh.
 
You might have seen recently here my sale price on my van has dropped right down to a low $125,000.00 ok.
 
I'm slightly flexible on that, but heh, make me an offer I can't refuse.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: amortensen@westnet.com.au
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 11:40:09 +1000
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Sarter Motor

 
Hey Ken,
                 Sounds like my non diff  lock kombi is what you need end of problem. Straight swap for your hard to work on Tracker.
                                                                   Regards Pete <Montville Qld>
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message----- --
 
Date: 9/05/2010 11:12:36 AM
Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Sarter Motor
 
All,
Ok, to get to the nub of the issue, looks like I need to rework my previous question, so here goes ...
 
Is there a simple/doable workaround procedure to remove/reinstall the diflock actuator and its bracket without tilting down the engine/transaxle unit first?
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: bencroft96 <bencroft96@yahoo. com>
Sent: Sunday, 9 May 2010 8:37 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Sarter Motor
 
 
 
[The entire original message is not included]
 
 
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 
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5

Yurik,
Bingo!! I think you've got it!
 
This man oozes talent haha. Thanks a lot. I hope everyone is busy copying and pasting.
 
Ok I need to eyeball this when next I can but I must say this sounds a very workable solution for anyone replacing malfunctioned actuators and/or R&Ring starter motors. No wonder average grease monkies do so much damage in this area when left to their own devices.
 
Just to clarify/fine tune a couple of matters concerning your procedures please Yurik ...
 
Fitted over the length of the actuating shaft and so obscuring the roll pin should be a short length of protective plastic or rubber hose made up in 2 pieces that mate end to end together. So is it the case that by first releasing the actuator unit from the bracket, this enables fuller access to the length of the actuating shaft which then enables exposing/accessing the roll pin for its removal/reinstallation? In other words you are trying to work around the ends or at the middle join of the 2 piece cover hose to get at the roll pin?  Which is correct?  
 
If so and with as you say the actuator then released at the bracket end, is there any trick to holding steady enough the actuating shaft so as to be able to delicately hold it all, hold a small hammer and thin punch and also then tap out or tap in the roll pin? All this while working in a confined dark space under the van. Or is all this irrelevant, it's actually easier than it looks?
 
Here and elsewhere it has been reported a number of times of problems with reinstalling the roll pin such that the short end of the actuating shaft gets accidently sheered off .... that short length beyond the shaping in the actuating shaft that accommodates the roll pin. Clearly there seems to be a problem with carrying out this part of the procedure concerning initial correct re-alignment of the roll pin hole on the main shaft and the corresponding shaped recess on the actuating shaft, prior to attempting to tap in the roll pin. Meaning due to poor re-alignment technique, the end of the actuating shaft gets sheared off. Meaning one then has to purchase a whole new actuator. Any hints/comment please?
 
A very worthwhile assist Yurik, thanks a lot.
 
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: yuriko@iinet.net.au
Date: Sun, 9 May 2010 12:31:24 +0800
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Sarter Motor

 
Ken,
The actuator bracket can be removed without tilting the engine/transaxle.
The steps that I employed are;

1. Detach the drive shaft at the transaxle and swing it out of the way.
2. Remove the plastic actuator unit - unscrew the 2 thin bolts holding the
unit in its bracket and tap out the rolled pin at the actuating shaft.
3. Remove the cir clip around the boss of the housing and unscrew the 2
bolts that fasten the bracket to the transaxle housing.

This works without much difficulty.
Yurik

-----Original Message-----
From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
[mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Sunday, 9 May 2010 9:12 AM
To: syncro_t3_australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Sarter Motor

All,
Ok, to get to the nub of the issue, looks like I need to rework my previous
question, so here goes ...

Is there a simple/doable workaround procedure to remove/reinstall the
diflock actuator and its bracket without tilting down the engine/transaxle
unit first?
Cheers.
Ken

-----Original Message-----
From: bencroft96 <bencroft96@yahoo. com>
Sent: Sunday, 9 May 2010 8:37 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Sarter Motor

[The entire original message is not included]

------------ --------- --------- ------

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