Idle Stabilizer Control Unit

Hi all,

Am continuing the clean up/trip preparation of the Syncro and have been getting in behind everything removable!

I have removed the air intake tube so I can clean down the RH rear vent. All nice and clean now and after a few days drying will be ready for the Tectol treatment (have almost finished bus front to back now) Have even cleaned and applied new under body paint/bitumen to the wheel wells, and over painting with a close match to the body colour so it looks stock, and have done the same where the long range tank will go.

Anyway, in doing so came across the idle control unit. I assume this some how ties in with the ECU? Are these likely to fail, and if so what are the symptoms?


In removing the intake assembly I was surprised it's not that well sealed (has drain holes and joints only push together. Something to keep in mind when crossing creeks!


On the mud flap repair, have most of the parts needed now to fix them up. I am also going to remake the front mud flap brackets and extend them to allow adding an additional mud flap inside the stock one. This will help keep the underneath clean. On the rear looks straight forward to put a larger mud flap in place. Bit hard to explain, but will send some pics when I get around to fit it all up. Hope that will help with the amount of dirt entering the engine bay (I think I was spoilt with the T2 and having a nice clean engine bay)


On the tank install, I think I will bite the bullet and have notches put in to miss the seat mount bolts. At least it will pull hard up to the floor


Also working on a little straightening of the bull bar and some re-welding to strengthen it a bit also.


Richard

Hi Richard,
Great to see such enterprise!

From memory I think VW states limiting water wading to no higher than the vans floor level for us with petrol engines and leaky air intakes etc.
Idle stabiliser isn't a component that gets much mention on here as being problematic. However to be on the safe side, I'd suggest you disconnect the battery before removing/reconnecting the wiring harness to/from it and apply a sealant to its underside if you intend deeper water wading. That part is chockablock full of electrical components/circuitry. Yet another that that talks to the ECU.

Cheers.
Ken




To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2015 06:04:34 -0700
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Idle Stabilizer Control Unit

 

Hi all,
Am continuing the clean up/trip preparation of the Syncro and have been getting in behind everything removable!
I have removed the air intake tube so I can clean down the RH rear vent. All nice and clean now and after a few days drying will be ready for the Tectol treatment (have almost finished bus front to back now) Have even cleaned and applied new under body paint/bitumen to the wheel wells, and over painting with a close match to the body colour so it looks stock, and have done the same where the long range tank will go.
Anyway, in doing so came across the idle control unit. I assume this some how ties in with the ECU? Are these likely to fail, and if so what are the symptoms?


In removing the intake assembly I was surprised it's not that well sealed (has drain holes and joints only push together. Something to keep in mind when crossing creeks!


On the mud flap repair, have most of the parts needed now to fix them up. I am also going to remake the front mud flap brackets and extend them to allow adding an additional mud flap inside the stock one. This will help keep the underneath clean. On the rear looks straight forward to put a larger mud flap in place. Bit hard to explain, but will send some pics when I get around to fit it all up. Hope that will help with the amount of dirt entering the engine bay (I think I was spoilt with the T2 and having a nice clean engine bay)


On the tank install, I think I will bite the bullet and have notches put in to miss the seat mount bolts. At least it will pull hard up to the floor


Also working on a little straightening of the bull bar and some re-welding to strengthen it a bit also.


Richard