New Boots

Hi Folks,

Just posted some new pics of my van with  Tiguan wheels and new Cooper AT3s. They are 225/75R16, the biggest I could fit on without fouling anywhere. Turns out they are perfect & don't rub at any point (so far). Not sure what will happen at full articulation. guess I will find out soon enough. Needed to shamfer the outside lips of the front hubs to 45 degrees for clearance. That saved me spending $150-200 to have the centre bores machined out from 57.1 to 67.1 mm.
With my ratios of 6.03, 3.78, 1.88, 1.08, 0.73 this gives me 75-85kph at 3-3500rpm in third (perfect for the hills) and 105kph at 3000rpm in fourth for cruising. Took a run up the South Eastern freeway from the old Tollgate to Crafers (steep) to visit my son the other day. Did it easily in third. Struggled to maintain 80-90 in fourth, even with the EJ25. That's the price I pay for great highway gearing! Works well.

A question now for the forum.
Need 10mm longer studs as the existing nuts come 2-3 turns short. Will get them from JustCampers. They list longer front studs for the T2 Bay but not for the T3, let alone the Syncro. I am assuming they will fit as the are all M14x1.5 and the spline and bolt length is right.
Rear - No problem fitting longer studs to the rear.
Front - However on taking out the front brake calipers and disc, there doesn't appear to be enough room behind the hub to knock out the original studs, let alone putting the longer ones in. So, it looks like I will need to pull out the front hubs to fit the longer studs.
Correct? I would be grateful for any tips on this. 

Cheers,
Bruce, Adelaide.

Yes you will need to remove the hubs to replace the studs, this will mean new bearings as they get damaged on removal. I got my studs and the proper radiused nuts from T3 technique. Some photos here  http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=104200  . Front studs are 45mm at stock length. The studs I used were overly long but can be trimmed back later. 


Cheers Brent

Hi Bruce,
 
How do you find the gap between 2nd and 3rd gear.  Is it noticeable in daily driving? 
Would you go with those ratios again or would you tighten them up anywhere?
 
Neil.

From: "bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au" <bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 18 January 2014 4:34 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] New Boots
 
Hi Folks,
Just posted some new pics of my van with  Tiguan wheels and new Cooper AT3s. They are 225/75R16, the biggest I could fit on without fouling anywhere. Turns out they are perfect & don't rub at any point (so far). Not sure what will happen at full articulation. guess I will find out soon enough. Needed to shamfer the outside lips of the front hubs to 45 degrees for clearance. That saved me spending $150-200 to have the centre bores machined out from 57.1 to 67.1 mm.
With my ratios of 6.03, 3.78, 1.88, 1.08, 0.73 this gives me 75-85kph at 3-3500rpm in third (perfect for the hills) and 105kph at 3000rpm in fourth for cruising. Took a run up the South Eastern freeway from the old Tollgate to Crafers (steep) to visit my son the other day. Did it easily in third. Struggled to maintain 80-90 in fourth, even with the EJ25. That's the price I pay for great highway gearing! Works well.

A question now for the forum.
Need 10mm longer studs as the existing nuts come 2-3 turns short. Will get them from JustCampers. They list longer front studs for the T2 Bay but not for the T3, let alone the Syncro. I am assuming they will fit as the are all M14x1.5 and the spline and bolt length is right.
Rear - No problem fitting longer studs to the rear.
Front - However on taking out the front brake calipers and disc, there doesn't appear to be enough room behind the hub to knock out the original studs, let alone putting the longer ones in. So, it looks like I will need to pull out the front hubs to fit the longer studs.
Correct? I would be grateful for any tips on this. 

Cheers,
Bruce, Adelaide.

Thanks for the pics Bruce. Couple of questions if you don't mind :
What air cleaner setup did you use for the Subi ?
Where did the gears come from ?

A fine job on the conversion. I'm just waiting for the last of my parts to arrive before the instal in March.

Mark
Hi Neil,
I did a lot of work on gear ratios, both myself and in consultation with Ron Schmidt.
I wanted good highway gearing, while preserving offroad gearing, that's why 3rd and 4th are stretched out. G, 1 and 2 are stock ratios although I chose the 1.88 2nd to close the gap a little between 2nd & 3rd and because it is much stronger gearset  than the 2.06 gear and shaft. There is a gap, but you only really notice it while changing up on steeper inclines. So just hold 2nd a little longer.
With the current setup, I wouldn't change anything. If only VW had built a 5+G box!
Bruce.


On Saturday, 18 January 2014 10:07 PM, neil smith <jackthebearau@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
Hi Bruce,
 
How do you find the gap between 2nd and 3rd gear.  Is it noticeable in daily driving? 
Would you go with those ratios again or would you tighten them up anywhere?
 
Neil.

From: "bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au" <bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 18 January 2014 4:34 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] New Boots
 
Hi Folks,
Just posted some new pics of my van with  Tiguan wheels and new Cooper AT3s. They are 225/75R16, the biggest I could fit on without fouling anywhere. Turns out they are perfect & don't rub at any point (so far). Not sure what will happen at full articulation. guess I will find out soon enough. Needed to shamfer the outside lips of the front hubs to 45 degrees for clearance. That saved me spending $150-200 to have the centre bores machined out from 57.1 to 67.1 mm.
With my ratios of 6.03, 3.78, 1.88, 1.08, 0.73 this gives me 75-85kph at 3-3500rpm in third (perfect for the hills) and 105kph at 3000rpm in fourth for cruising. Took a run up the South Eastern freeway from the old Tollgate to Crafers (steep) to visit my son the other day. Did it easily in third. Struggled to maintain 80-90 in fourth, even with the EJ25. That's the price I pay for great highway gearing! Works well.

A question now for the forum.
Need 10mm longer studs as the existing nuts come 2-3 turns short. Will get them from JustCampers. They list longer front studs for the T2 Bay but not for the T3, let alone the Syncro. I am assuming they will fit as the are all M14x1.5 and the spline and bolt length is right.
Rear - No problem fitting longer studs to the rear.
Front - However on taking out the front brake calipers and disc, there doesn't appear to be enough room behind the hub to knock out the original studs, let alone putting the longer ones in. So, it looks like I will need to pull out the front hubs to fit the longer studs.
Correct? I would be grateful for any tips on this. 

Cheers,
Bruce, Adelaide.



Thanks Brent, it's only for the sake of a couple of turns of the nut. Don't have to do it right away, but will have to bight the bullet eventually. Maybe a job for my local VW T3 Syncro mechanic.


On Saturday, 18 January 2014 6:55 PM, "manxdune@yahoo.com.au" <manxdune@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
 
Yes you will need to remove the hubs to replace the studs, this will mean new bearings as they get damaged on removal. I got my studs and the proper radiused nuts from T3 technique. Some photos here  http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=104200  . Front studs are 45mm at stock length. The studs I used were overly long but can be trimmed back later. 

Cheers Brent


Hi Mark,
It's a K&N cone filter behind that Aluminium plate. Not sealed... It's disappointing since Miles said it would be.
One thing I have to address. 
Bruce.


On Sunday, 19 January 2014 1:10 PM, "m.mullet@yahoo.com.au" <m.mullet@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
 
Thanks for the pics Bruce. Couple of questions if you don't mind :
What air cleaner setup did you use for the Subi ?
Where did the gears come from ?

A fine job on the conversion. I'm just waiting for the last of my parts to arrive before the instal in March.

Mark


Mark,
The gears & R&P were sourced from the US by Ron Schmidt. Virtually the whole gearset and rear diff are new.
Bruce.


On Sunday, 19 January 2014 1:10 PM, "m.mullet@yahoo.com.au" <m.mullet@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
 
Thanks for the pics Bruce. Couple of questions if you don't mind :
What air cleaner setup did you use for the Subi ?
Where did the gears come from ?

A fine job on the conversion. I'm just waiting for the last of my parts to arrive before the instal in March.

Mark


Bruce,

When I bought my syncro it had the 2.7 scooby lump already installed yet had a pathetic air filter set up with a standard paper filter inside a Renault air box with many large round holes cut in it to allow air in located right beside the donk and in aim of the left rear wheel.

One dirt track and the filter was clogged.

I replaced it with a V6 commodore air-box which I modified to fit and the air intake is now a PVC pipe in the side air vent void up about half way - works well. Best thing I ever did.

Still gets dusty on dirt dry roads but no where near as fast as the old set-up. Plus the filters are so easy to get replacements for.

Miles does do a neat intake pipe though - well he did on yours.

Skot

On 19/01/2014 6:33 PM, Bruce Morphett wrote:
Hi Mark,
It's a K&N cone filter behind that Aluminium plate. Not sealed... It's disappointing since Miles said it would be.
One thing I have to address.
Bruce.


On Sunday, 19 January 2014 1:10 PM, "m.mullet@yahoo.com.au" <m.mullet@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
Thanks for the pics Bruce. Couple of questions if you don't mind :
What air cleaner setup did you use for the Subi ?
Where did the gears come from ?

A fine job on the conversion. I'm just waiting for the last of my parts to arrive before the instal in March.

Mark



An easily accessible prefilter is the charm for dusty conditions. As is carrying a clean replacement. Don't need any of that here at the caravan park in Sorrento - woose camping.

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 19 Jan 2014, at 7:56 pm, spbconsulting@bigpond.com wrote:

 

Bruce,

When I bought my syncro it had the 2.7 scooby lump already installed yet had a pathetic air filter set up with a standard paper filter inside a Renault air box with many large round holes cut in it to allow air in located right beside the donk and in aim of the left rear wheel.

One dirt track and the filter was clogged.

I replaced it with a V6 commodore air-box which I modified to fit  and the air intake is now a PVC pipe in the side air vent void up about half way - works well. Best thing I ever did.

Still gets dusty on dirt dry roads but no where near as fast as the old set-up. Plus the filters are so easy to get replacements for.

Miles does do a neat intake pipe though - well he did on yours.

Skot

On 19/01/2014 6:33 PM, Bruce Morphett wrote:
 
Hi Mark,
It's a K&N cone filter behind that Aluminium plate. Not sealed... It's disappointing since Miles said it would be.
One thing I have to address. 
Bruce.


On Sunday, 19 January 2014 1:10 PM, "m.mullet@yahoo.com.au" <m.mullet@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
 
Thanks for the pics Bruce. Couple of questions if you don't mind :
What air cleaner setup did you use for the Subi ?
Where did the gears come from ?

A fine job on the conversion. I'm just waiting for the last of my parts to arrive before the instal in March.

Mark



Thanks for that Bruce, that's a big help in my quest for the ultimate ratios. 
It's hard to pick ratios without knowing how they feel in the seat of the pants, especially gear spacing and by the time you get that it can be too late. 

From: Bruce Morphett <bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 19 January 2014 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] New Boots
 
Hi Neil,
I did a lot of work on gear ratios, both myself and in consultation with Ron Schmidt.
I wanted good highway gearing, while preserving offroad gearing, that's why 3rd and 4th are stretched out. G, 1 and 2 are stock ratios although I chose the 1.88 2nd to close the gap a little between 2nd & 3rd and because it is much stronger gearset  than the 2.06 gear and shaft. There is a gap, but you only really notice it while changing up on steeper inclines. So just hold 2nd a little longer.
With the current setup, I wouldn't change anything. If only VW had built a 5+G box!
Bruce.
On Saturday, 18 January 2014 10:07 PM, neil smith <jackthebearau@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
Hi Bruce,
 
How do you find the gap between 2nd and 3rd gear.  Is it noticeable in daily driving? 
Would you go with those ratios again or would you tighten them up anywhere?
 
Neil.

From: "bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au" <bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 18 January 2014 4:34 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] New Boots
 
Hi Folks,
Just posted some new pics of my van with  Tiguan wheels and new Cooper AT3s. They are 225/75R16, the biggest I could fit on without fouling anywhere. Turns out they are perfect & don't rub at any point (so far). Not sure what will happen at full articulation. guess I will find out soon enough. Needed to shamfer the outside lips of the front hubs to 45 degrees for clearance. That saved me spending $150-200 to have the centre bores machined out from 57.1 to 67.1 mm.
With my ratios of 6.03, 3.78, 1.88, 1.08, 0.73 this gives me 75-85kph at 3-3500rpm in third (perfect for the hills) and 105kph at 3000rpm in fourth for cruising. Took a run up the South Eastern freeway from the old Tollgate to Crafers (steep) to visit my son the other day. Did it easily in third. Struggled to maintain 80-90 in fourth, even with the EJ25. That's the price I pay for great highway gearing! Works well.

A question now for the forum.
Need 10mm longer studs as the existing nuts come 2-3 turns short. Will get them from JustCampers. They list longer front studs for the T2 Bay but not for the T3, let alone the Syncro. I am assuming they will fit as the are all M14x1.5 and the spline and bolt length is right.
Rear - No problem fitting longer studs to the rear.
Front - However on taking out the front brake calipers and disc, there doesn't appear to be enough room behind the hub to knock out the original studs, let alone putting the longer ones in. So, it looks like I will need to pull out the front hubs to fit the longer studs.
Correct? I would be grateful for any tips on this. 

Cheers,
Bruce, Adelaide.

Neil,
Yes, it all depends on your engine, your most common terrain, your style of driving, size of tyres etc. Another option was 1.18 & 0.77 for 3rd & 4th. which with my tyres would have given 3,000 rpm at 100kph. Smaller tyres less. It's a personal thing. After some more driving today I am very happy with my choice. With the original MV donk my choices would have necessarily been very different. Maybe even stayed with the stock ratios and the bigger tyres.
Cheers,
Bruce.


On Monday, 20 January 2014 4:40 PM, neil smith <jackthebearau@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
Thanks for that Bruce, that's a big help in my quest for the ultimate ratios. 
It's hard to pick ratios without knowing how they feel in the seat of the pants, especially gear spacing and by the time you get that it can be too late. 

From: Bruce Morphett <bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, 19 January 2014 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] New Boots
 
Hi Neil,
I did a lot of work on gear ratios, both myself and in consultation with Ron Schmidt.
I wanted good highway gearing, while preserving offroad gearing, that's why 3rd and 4th are stretched out. G, 1 and 2 are stock ratios although I chose the 1.88 2nd to close the gap a little between 2nd & 3rd and because it is much stronger gearset  than the 2.06 gear and shaft. There is a gap, but you only really notice it while changing up on steeper inclines. So just hold 2nd a little longer.
With the current setup, I wouldn't change anything. If only VW had built a 5+G box!
Bruce.
On Saturday, 18 January 2014 10:07 PM, neil smith <jackthebearau@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
Hi Bruce,
 
How do you find the gap between 2nd and 3rd gear.  Is it noticeable in daily driving? 
Would you go with those ratios again or would you tighten them up anywhere?
 
Neil.

From: "bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au" <bruce.morphett@yahoo.com.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 18 January 2014 4:34 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] New Boots
 
Hi Folks,
Just posted some new pics of my van with  Tiguan wheels and new Cooper AT3s. They are 225/75R16, the biggest I could fit on without fouling anywhere. Turns out they are perfect & don't rub at any point (so far). Not sure what will happen at full articulation. guess I will find out soon enough. Needed to shamfer the outside lips of the front hubs to 45 degrees for clearance. That saved me spending $150-200 to have the centre bores machined out from 57.1 to 67.1 mm.
With my ratios of 6.03, 3.78, 1.88, 1.08, 0.73 this gives me 75-85kph at 3-3500rpm in third (perfect for the hills) and 105kph at 3000rpm in fourth for cruising. Took a run up the South Eastern freeway from the old Tollgate to Crafers (steep) to visit my son the other day. Did it easily in third. Struggled to maintain 80-90 in fourth, even with the EJ25. That's the price I pay for great highway gearing! Works well.

A question now for the forum.
Need 10mm longer studs as the existing nuts come 2-3 turns short. Will get them from JustCampers. They list longer front studs for the T2 Bay but not for the T3, let alone the Syncro. I am assuming they will fit as the are all M14x1.5 and the spline and bolt length is right.
Rear - No problem fitting longer studs to the rear.
Front - However on taking out the front brake calipers and disc, there doesn't appear to be enough room behind the hub to knock out the original studs, let alone putting the longer ones in. So, it looks like I will need to pull out the front hubs to fit the longer studs.
Correct? I would be grateful for any tips on this. 

Cheers,
Bruce, Adelaide.