New old Syncro - replacing engine

21
The diff lock switch looks like that I think but I don't think you would be able to get it up there. Gregor 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 21 Oct 2016, at 7:36 AM, gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

The breather unit is the only thing with that plug around there but the boot is wrong. <image1.JPG>
Gregor 
Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 21 Oct 2016, at 7:24 AM, gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Sorry I didn't see the photo. Definitely not the diagnosis plug. 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 21 Oct 2016, at 6:04 AM, plander@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Power steering plug?

22

OK  This is getting me stumped...


In these pics you can see the breather Unit plug and I have got that connected correctly - so it isn't that plug as afr as I can tell.

The plug I am having issues with is the same as mentioned but with a round rubber boot.

One of the pics shows prior to removal of the engine and you can see the wire coming from under the air cleaner back towards the front of the syncro, the picture does not show the plug and what it is plugged into. damnit.

The wire has memory and should plug in somewhere under the air cleaner...  :( 


BTW Thankyou all for your input -


Peter

23
As Greg said - it could be the diff-lock/ decoupler wire that has been re-routed for some reason.

Does it have a rear diff-lock?

Cheers,
Skot

On 21/10/2016 8:23 AM, richo1166@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

OK This is getting me stumped...


In these pics you can see the breather Unit plug and I have got that connected correctly - so it isn't that plug as afr as I can tell.

The plug I am having issues with is the same as mentioned but with a round rubber boot.

One of the pics shows prior to removal of the engine and you can see the wire coming from under the air cleaner back towards the front of the syncro, the picture does not show the plug and what it is plugged into. damnit.

The wire has memory and should plug in somewhere under the air cleaner... :(


BTW Thankyou all for your input -


Peter



24
It's the diff lock plug. image1.JPG
Hard to take a good photo. The switch is just above the actuator if you have a locker. If you don't just zip it out of the way. Gregor 
Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 21 Oct 2016, at 8:43 AM, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

As Greg said - it could be the diff-lock/ decoupler wire that has been re-routed for some reason.

Does it have a rear diff-lock?

Cheers,
Skot

On 21/10/2016 8:23 AM, richo1166@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

OK  This is getting me stumped...


In these pics you can see the breather Unit plug and I have got that connected correctly - so it isn't that plug as afr as I can tell.

The plug I am having issues with is the same as mentioned but with a round rubber boot.

One of the pics shows prior to removal of the engine and you can see the wire coming from under the air cleaner back towards the front of the syncro, the picture does not show the plug and what it is plugged into. damnit.

The wire has memory and should plug in somewhere under the air cleaner...  :( 


BTW Thankyou all for your input -


Peter




25

Yeah I am now thinking the same.   Well handy to know as I am going to have to get a Diff Lock Transaxle one day however mine doesn't have the boss to take actuator :(  or maybe weld in a boss,   anyway that is a discussion I will need later down the track..


so going forward

I am flushing the cooling system this weekend and filling with G12 and distilled water... gee I recon the radiator is a mess and the pipes, as there was so much rust in the system after sitting still for 2 years... It had green coolant originally in it, but mostly it was water and rust...


I'll be looking after the new motor as it is dusty but not a sign of leaks anywhere (first vw flat motor I have ever seen without a oil leak at least)  .


Thanks again everyone


Peter  

26
The diff lock boss should be there. will just need the hole to be machined out,

Neil.


From: "richo1166@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 21 October 2016, 12:22
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: New old Syncro - replacing engine

 
Yeah I am now thinking the same.   Well handy to know as I am going to have to get a Diff Lock Transaxle one day however mine doesn't have the boss to take actuator :(  or maybe weld in a boss,   anyway that is a discussion I will need later down the track..

so going forward
I am flushing the cooling system this weekend and filling with G12 and distilled water... gee I recon the radiator is a mess and the pipes, as there was so much rust in the system after sitting still for 2 years... It had green coolant originally in it, but mostly it was water and rust...

I'll be looking after the new motor as it is dusty but not a sign of leaks anywhere (first vw flat motor I have ever seen without a oil leak at least)  .

Thanks again everyone

Peter  


27
Not always Neil.

Various syncro cases and even some 2wd cases had them which did not have diff locks but not all syncros had the boss.

A shame as it would make it easier for those boxes without them.

The diff-lock gearboxes have a stronger diff too (according to Rudi - I think he said they have the 2 spider diff rather than the 1 spider?).

Cheers,
Skot

On 21/10/2016 12:35 PM, neil smith jackthebearau@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
The diff lock boss should be there. will just need the hole to be machined out,

Neil.


From: "richo1166@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 21 October 2016, 12:22
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: New old Syncro - replacing engine

Yeah I am now thinking the same. Well handy to know as I am going to have to get a Diff Lock Transaxle one day however mine doesn't have the boss to take actuator :( or maybe weld in a boss, anyway that is a discussion I will need later down the track..

so going forward
I am flushing the cooling system this weekend and filling with G12 and distilled water... gee I recon the radiator is a mess and the pipes, as there was so much rust in the system after sitting still for 2 years... It had green coolant originally in it, but mostly it was water and rust...

I'll be looking after the new motor as it is dusty but not a sign of leaks anywhere (first vw flat motor I have ever seen without a oil leak at least) .

Thanks again everyone

Peter



--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
28
Could it be the plug connecting to the hydraulic pump switch ?
Hart
Sent from my iPad

On 20 Oct 2016, at 10:33 pm, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Take a photo of the top of your engine as it is now. That will help.

It doesn't look like the diagnostic plug ( that fits to the alternator) to me - that plug is round.

Cheers,

Skot

On 20/10/2016 7:51 PM, richo1166@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Hey Mark, 


Well it is a good one I have to say. Runs really nice in the driveway.  Yet to test it out on the road for real.

One thing anyone could answer :::

I found a spare plug and wires that looks like it should plug in to the engine somewhere around under the air cleaner.  I have the plug into the air cleaner so it isn't it, but this one has the same plug but a round rubber dust cover...  pulling my hair out. I don't know how helpful that pic is.. sory.

Peter

Btw the pic I took before I pulled everything apart shows the wire coming out from under the air cleaner inlet pipe bent back towards the front of the syncro I just don't have a pick of what the plug os plugged into.

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

29
Wow, thought I knew a bit about Syncros till I got one!  Has been quite a learning curve.  My Syncro gearbox has the boss and so does my 2WD 5 speed, I thought they all had it.  Both diff locks that I have bought came with only 2 spider gears and single cross shaft but the carriers had the holes for the second cross shaft.  Ron Schmidt added the extra shaft and spider gears when he installed it.

Neil. 



From: "Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 21 October 2016, 12:58
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: New old Syncro - replacing engine

 
Not always Neil.

Various syncro cases and even some 2wd cases had them which did not have diff locks but not all syncros had the boss.

A shame as it would make it easier for those boxes without them.

The diff-lock gearboxes have a stronger diff too (according to Rudi - I think he said they have the 2 spider diff rather than the 1 spider?).

Cheers,
Skot

On 21/10/2016 12:35 PM, neil smith jackthebearau@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 
The diff lock boss should be there. will just need the hole to be machined out,

Neil.


From: "richo1166@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 21 October 2016, 12:22
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: New old Syncro - replacing engine

 
Yeah I am now thinking the same.   Well handy to know as I am going to have to get a Diff Lock Transaxle one day however mine doesn't have the boss to take actuator :(  or maybe weld in a boss,   anyway that is a discussion I will need later down the track..

so going forward
I am flushing the cooling system this weekend and filling with G12 and distilled water... gee I recon the radiator is a mess and the pipes, as there was so much rust in the system after sitting still for 2 years... It had green coolant originally in it, but mostly it was water and rust...

I'll be looking after the new motor as it is dusty but not a sign of leaks anywhere (first vw flat motor I have ever seen without a oil leak at least)  .

Thanks again everyone

Peter  



--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting


30

Hi Peter,

It's often been a vexed topic, but my understanding from past discussion/experience here is that it is best to choose between any of G11, G12+, G12++ and more recently G13 for the WBX motor. But not G12. For peace of mind, more google searching may glean more info re incompatibility of G12 for WBX motor.


Now to put the cat amongst the pigeons, the HEPU G12 Plus coolant (purchased from Tooley Imports) states on its label "G12 plus can be mixed with G11 and G12." I find that hard to believe for WBX motor and is contrary to all past syncro forum discussion here concerning avoiding G12.


Interestingly:

Bentley Repair Manual states (Appendix P12) "The coolant system has been filled at the factory with a permanent coolant which does not need to be changed."

With an exception though:

Bentley states (19.11) "Coolant/antifreeze MUST NOT be reused when replacing engine, cylinder head gasket, radiator and heater core."

And confirming Bentley:

For example, two brands of G12+ coolant I have previously purchased from Tooley Imports ... HEPU and VAICO, both state on their labels "Suitable as a "filled for live" for all types of engines." I assume they mean "life".


Begs the question though, wouldn't VWs own expected (turnover) life of a vehicle to be say only 10 years? If so, then VW (and we) wouldn't expect the original factory coolant fill ... 25 years later ... to still be even remotely viable. In which case then, its a misleading statement ... "filled for live" (life).


In conclusion, I can only restate what a local VW mechanic, now retired, advised me based on his long past experience servicing VWs. ... "No need to change from original G11 for WBX motor." Despite later coolant iterations being compatible with G11 (arguably not G12) there is no added service advantage for use in WBX as they are all primarily meant toward supporting newer engine design/developments/technology/systems introduced post T3.


Cheers.

Ken

  






From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of richo1166@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 21 October 2016 12:22 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: New old Syncro - replacing engine
 
 

Yeah I am now thinking the same.   Well handy to know as I am going to have to get a Diff Lock Transaxle one day however mine doesn't have the boss to take actuator :(  or maybe weld in a boss,   anyway that is a discussion I will need later down the track..


so going forward

I am flushing the cooling system this weekend and filling with G12 and distilled water... gee I recon the radiator is a mess and the pipes, as there was so much rust in the system after sitting still for 2 years... It had green coolant originally in it, but mostly it was water and rust...


I'll be looking after the new motor as it is dusty but not a sign of leaks anywhere (first vw flat motor I have ever seen without a oil leak at least)  .


Thanks again everyone


Peter  

31
Do you have power steering? there is a two-pin connection to the PAS pump, to increase idle speed when full lock is applied, so that the engine doesn't stall while parking. If you don't have power steering, just tape it up and cable tie it out of the way.

Roger.
32
Hi Roger
Yeah I do have power steering and I have those covered.   So not power steering. In fact I never unplugged that as it stayed in the car when I swapped motors...

Peter


-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 21/10/2016 8:05 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: New old Syncro - replacing engine

 

Do you have power steering? there is a two-pin connection to the PAS pump, to increase idle speed when full lock is applied, so that the engine doesn't stall while parking. If you don't have power steering, just tape it up and cable tie it out of the way.

Roger.

33
Its definitely not a power steering wire connector - those are two separate wires with single connectors.

Cheers,
Skot

On 21/10/2016 8:05 PM, Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
Do you have power steering? there is a two-pin connection to the PAS pump, to increase idle speed when full lock is applied, so that the engine doesn't stall while parking. If you don't have power steering, just tape it up and cable tie it out of the way.

Roger.

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
34

Hi All,

My Syncro did not have the boss - Rudi did install one with a stronger diff.

I have seen a parts list with all the different gearbox housing, one day I will dig it up.

Cheers,

Theo

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, 21 October 2016 11:58 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: New old Syncro - replacing engine

 

 

Not always Neil.

Various syncro cases and even some 2wd cases had them which did not have diff locks but not all syncros had the boss.

A shame as it would make it easier for those boxes without them.

The diff-lock gearboxes have a stronger diff too (according to Rudi - I think he said they have the 2 spider diff rather than the 1 spider?).

Cheers,
Skot

On 21/10/2016 12:35 PM, neil smith jackthebearau@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

 

The diff lock boss should be there. will just need the hole to be machined out,

 

Neil.

 

From: "richo1166@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, 21 October 2016, 12:22
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: New old Syncro - replacing engine

 

 

Yeah I am now thinking the same.   Well handy to know as I am going to have to get a Diff Lock Transaxle one day however mine doesn't have the boss to take actuator :(  or maybe weld in a boss,   anyway that is a discussion I will need later down the track..

 

so going forward

I am flushing the cooling system this weekend and filling with G12 and distilled water... gee I recon the radiator is a mess and the pipes, as there was so much rust in the system after sitting still for 2 years... It had green coolant originally in it, but mostly it was water and rust...

 

I'll be looking after the new motor as it is dusty but not a sign of leaks anywhere (first vw flat motor I have ever seen without a oil leak at least)  .

 

Thanks again everyone

 

Peter  

 

 

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

35

Great work there Richo, always great to get the bus on the road and running around! Don't forget to look at your fuel lines, if they are originals they are prone to rotting from the inside. I just replaced all of mine, they were original, and all still serviceable, but worth the effort to replace them (and all the cooling system hoses which sounds like a job you already have planned).


I agree, those rims looks like 2WD rims (narrower rims than Syncro rims)


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <richo1166@...> wrote :

I had a great weekend.

I got the engine in and I was pleasently surprised how straight forward it was. It started up straight away on 2 year old fuel.  I have since drained most of it out as the tank was 3/4 fill so I will take some more out before refilling with new 98. 

Gee it is quiet and even though it had rubish fuel ran OK (but not perfect). Driveline sounded awesome no weird noises etc. 

Being the first time driving a Syncro it seemed so nice to drive smooth and really surprise (again) how well it felt on the road. 

Also I have just straight water in the cooling system atm and will get some raditor flush this week dump it and replace with G12 that I have ready to go..  Also looking at a set of stainless pipes as there was so much rust in the cooling as is it I can only imagine what those pipes are like.

I have to replace the fuel filter but looks like a pita job so another job for this week...

Anyway again thanks Hans for the engine she is a cracker.

 



36

Good spotting Greg,

I'm guessing if you have no diff lock, you don't have the panel on the dash for the diff lock switches? If you did you could fit a bulb and short the connectors to confirm the light comes on (confirming it's for the diff lock)

I assume even if you don't; have the panel, the cables will still be behind the dash panel anyway?

Richard

37

Interesting reading on the coolant posts. I have been using G12+ (Febi Brand), never knew G11 was still available! Febi makes no mention on compatibility with other types or life of the coolant. As I'm slowly going through the cooling system on mine, I seem to be replacing the coolant every 12 months at the moment, so life is not a big deal for me :)


Another interesting point, I noticed a while ago Supercheap sell Nulon brand coolant (concentrate) listed as G12, G12+, G12++, it specifically says to flush the system before putting in and not mix with other brands, even of the same grade coolant. It lists as 6 years/350k km life.


The coolant (as well as distinctive colour) has a very distinctive smell, on my recent trip to Fraser, there is a place just off the island you can get an under body wash. A couple of the guy's I travelled with tried this out (I was a little sceptical figuring there 's probably a lot of salt in the wash water as it would be recycled water, better to do it at home with plenty of fresh water!).

Anyway, they say there is a corrosion inhibitor in the wash water, it smell's exactly the same as the g12+ coolant!!

Made me wonder, if the nulon coolant (quite cheap) is good to spray under the bus before/after off road trips?


Richard