Oil Cooler R&R

All,
In the event I R&R the oil cooler, is it first necessary to drain all the engine oil and as well, most/all of the coolant?
 
Presently I'm surmising only a small amount of engine oil may drop out after spinning off the oil filter. Or does it still gravity drain a lot of oil? Which if any is correct?
 
For the coolant, maybe the small coolant pipes can simply have temporary bungs put in.  True or is there something I'm missing here?
 
Etka shows two part nos. for the oil cooler ... 068 117 021 B  and 068 117 021 BX. Anyone can confirm which is correct and/or the difference between the two? TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
G'day Ken-

  I can't see a problem removing the cooler without draining the engine oil as you will only spill a little bit of oil on the nice clean driveway.

  I can't throw any light on the part number query except to say that I thought the 'X' suffix denoted an exchange/reconditioned unit. This is unlikely as these are not reconditionable. I once dissected one and found nothing but a bunch of water-galleries inside, to exchange heat from oil to water. No moving parts. They only stuff up due to corrosion - more prevalent in countries where they apply salt to icy roads. If yours is not corroded at the coolant pipe junctions, it will be fine.

  I bought mine from the Van Cafe as they were unavailable from Tooleys at the time. It cost $80 AU nine months ago, plus freight.

  A word of warning on coolant hose 025 121 058G. Some none-genuine hoses are too large at one end - although they squeeze up with a hose clamp, they look like Momma Cass squeezed into Cher's jeans.  The vision will keep you awake all night before you tackle "Big Red" in mid-summer. I shelled out $25 for a genuine one, and sleep like a baby.

  On your previous query about using a water pump that has been sitting on the shelf -  I checked my records and found that I purchased a German "Hepu" pump from Ferman's in August 1999, and it sat in a box under the back seat of of a two vans before it was finally put to work in March this year. No problems.

  As for anti-sieze lubricants for water-pump bolts, I always use silver grease. The label fell off the tin years ago, but it had a Military rating for use in extreme conditions. It sticks to water pump bolts for years and makes them easy to remove. Apply liberally to the shank but only a light smear on the threads or it may compress inside the hole and stop the bolt from seating fully.

  Loctite makes a pipe-thread sealant that has similar properties.

  Cheers, Roger [Beetle].

that's not a bad idea , to just loosen the crank pulley and slide it back a
bit.
I like that idea ..
though messing with getting that bolt loosened, and then tightened properly
...
something I'd rather avoid with the engine in the car.

the pipe can be moved around a little without removing the crank pulley.

I often modify things to make them easier to work on...
have not found any easy ways to do that with a syncro water pump job ..

I think you just have to accept that it's a fiddly obnoxious job ..
and manifest maximum patience..
and just do it.

that was a great concept ...about regarding each of those allen screws as a
mini-task in itself..
it helps to see the whole job like that ..
bolt-by-bolt-by-nut-by-screw .

it's a fairly sucky job with the engine in the van ...
almost no matter how you do it.

but we love these rigs anyway !
scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Garratt " <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 2:02 PM
Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R




-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 8 December 2010 8:50 AM
To: Gullyraker@aol.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R

Roger, Scott & all,
Thank you for these hints & tips, I'm thinking I'll now R&R the oil cooler
& WP together, if only to check/clean the OC. Is there are "test" to check
the OC condition, other than visual?

Right now I've reached the stage of needing to physically remove the worn
WP off its mounting studs ... with the RHS coolant pipe in the way as Scott
previously described. I'm now thinking dealing with that pipe obstacle may
be harder than removing or just slackening the drive pulley enough to gain
more slack space for the WP to slip off its mounting studs. Any thoughts on
this option please? ... Will that work better and still without entirely
removing the drive pulley & its woodruff key? TIA.

Great "fun" so far!

Cheers.
Ken



-----Original Message-----
From: <Gullyraker@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 7 December 2010 3:17 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R



[The entire original message is not included]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Scott,
Ok thanks for that. At about midnight last night and knowing this was THE problem to overcome and after much mulling over and trying different things, I resigned to the fact that that pipe ... as is ... isn't gonna let me take off the WP! So went to bed to sleep on it. So I'm still deciding which way to jump ... either loosen and twist the RHS coolant pipe to get the slack space needed or I try the drive pulley loosening procedure to get the same amount of slack space. Big decision! ... haha
 
Now I've mastered how to lock the drive pulley solid just using a long socket through the hole in the crank pulley to the engine casing and I've mastered shifting and holding the tinware back to get the 30mm socket and lever onto the drive pully bolt, so that may be my preferred option to try.
 
I've also experimented with your idea of replacing the allen key bolts with hex head M8 1.25 pitch bolts ... AND on both LHS & RHS pipes. I found quite a few varieties of these bolts in my spares collection. All ex auto bolts. Interestingly though I found zero of any 10mm HH M8 1.25 pitch bolts, so you are correct ... these are pretty rare! I can report now with success though ... I reckon your suggestion is brilliant here as well. Provided one selects a 12mm 3/8th socket that does fit the available space, I found I could still even use a 1/2 inch socket extension & lever to R&R the hex head bolts on the LHS ... sweet as.  The RHS should also work fine, will simply use a different configuration of tool set to do it ... so you've definitely sold me on the hex head solution ... and in my case .... for both pipes.
 
By the way, to remove the allen key bolts both sides and not removing any tinware, I had here a spare 7" x 8mm CHESCO (USA) L allen key. I cut the key through at its right angle, giving me a straight short and a long length of 8mm allen rod. At one end on each piece, I reduced about 6mm length of it down to 6mm allen. Now the thing for me was .... once I got the initial release on each allen bolt using these and a socket, I then changed to an 8mm ratchet ring spanner onto the allen rod to extract fully (and fast) each of the allen bolts in turn, in particular the hard to get at RHS bolts. Same for installing. Just used a stronger tool at the end to do the final torgueing. Now that worked a treat. The reason for using the spare 8 mm rod is because my smallest ratchet ring spanner is 8mm. Not sure if they make them smaller, I don't have one anyway. 
 
The saga continues. Thanks Scott.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
> Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2010 17:12:31 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R
>
> that's not a bad idea , to just loosen the crank pulley and slide it back a
> bit.
> I like that idea ..
> though messing with getting that bolt loosened, and then tightened properly
> ...
> something I'd rather avoid with the engine in the car.
>
> the pipe can be moved around a little without removing the crank pulley.
>
> I often modify things to make them easier to work on...
> have not found any easy ways to do that with a syncro water pump job ..
>
> I think you just have to accept that it's a fiddly obnoxious job ..
> and manifest maximum patience..
> and just do it.
>
> that was a great concept ...about regarding each of those allen screws as a
> mini-task in itself..
> it helps to see the whole job like that ..
> bolt-by-bolt-by-nut-by-screw .
>
> it's a fairly sucky job with the engine in the van ...
> almost no matter how you do it.
>
> but we love these rigs anyway !
> scott
> www.turbovans.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Garratt " <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
> To: <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 2:02 PM
> Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, 8 December 2010 8:50 AM
> To: Gullyraker@aol.com
> Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R
>
> Roger, Scott & all,
> Thank you for these hints & tips, I'm thinking I'll now R&R the oil cooler
> & WP together, if only to check/clean the OC. Is there are "test" to check
> the OC condition, other than visual?
>
> Right now I've reached the stage of needing to physically remove the worn
> WP off its mounting studs ... with the RHS coolant pipe in the way as Scott
> previously described. I'm now thinking dealing with that pipe obstacle may
> be harder than removing or just slackening the drive pulley enough to gain
> more slack space for the WP to slip off its mounting studs. Any thoughts on
> this option please? ... Will that work better and still without entirely
> removing the drive pulley & its woodruff key? TIA.
>
> Great "fun" so far!
>
> Cheers.
> Ken
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: <Gullyraker@aol.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, 7 December 2010 3:17 PM
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R
>
>
>
> [The entire original message is not included]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/
>
> <*> Your email settings:
> Individual Email | Traditional
>
> <*> To change settings online go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/join
> (Yahoo! ID required)
>
> <*> To change settings via email:
> Syncro_T3_Australia-digest@yahoogroups.com
> Syncro_T3_Australia-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Syncro_T3_Australia-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>