Pulley

1

Hi Richard , for my last one i needed a puller. In that case you might want t remove the heat shield as well as the exhaus same time check the expansive double lib oilseal for leaking ?
Looks like your wend is booked!
Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
2

Thanks Hart,

Yep, two reason's I'm not keen to remove the pulley, don't want to risk damaging the seal as it's currently not leaking, and what you need to remove to make room for a puller!!

I guess I can see how far I get with the pulley in place, and make a call if I need to replace the bits I can't reach. I'm hoping with the AC out of the way, it's only the pipe from the water pump to the RH head I can't get to. If everything else is in good nic, I can just leave it and replace when the water pump needs doing.

No, not this week end, still a few weeks before I get into this. Been a long time coming, and still waiting on a few bits to arrive.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <hartis@...> wrote :


Hi Richard , for my last one i needed a puller. In that case you might want t remove the heat shield as well as the exhaus same time check the expansive double lib oilseal for leaking ?
Looks like your wend is booked!
Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
3
Hi Richard,

I have removed one of these pulleys and unsuccessful with another.

I bent a breaker bar really badly trying to get one bolt undone - failed.

The one I got off I used a 3 arm puller and it was a hard slog.

Those pulleys are gold so you dont want to damage it.

Some come off easy and some are near impossible.

Best of luck,

Skot

On 15/06/2017 3:39 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Thanks Hart,

Yep, two reason's I'm not keen to remove the pulley, don't want to risk damaging the seal as it's currently not leaking, and what you need to remove to make room for a puller!!

I guess I can see how far I get with the pulley in place, and make a call if I need to replace the bits I can't reach. I'm hoping with the AC out of the way, it's only the pipe from the water pump to the RH head I can't get to. If everything else is in good nic, I can just leave it and replace when the water pump needs doing.

No, not this week end, still a few weeks before I get into this. Been a long time coming, and still waiting on a few bits to arrive.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <hartis@...> wrote :


Hi Richard , for my last one i needed a puller. In that case you might want t remove the heat shield as well as the exhaus same time check the expansive double lib oilseal for leaking ?
Looks like your wend is booked!
Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
4

Hi Richard,

It's pretty much standard procedure now to replace the water pump without first removing the 3x output pulley. However, in that scenario, given the pulley is still in place, that WP R&R procedure does not enable removal of the steel coolant crossover pipe.


If you ever need to work on the oil pump, (in terms of accessibility), perhaps in conjunction, that's a time to consider the possibility of replacing the crossover pipe with SS. Or else whenever the the motor is dropped out.

 spots

Then again, maybe your crossover pipe is in good condition anyway. No sign of rust spots?


Interestingly, way back, I had rust showing in a number of spots on the big steel coolant pipe (passenger side of motor), but no evidence at all of corrosion in either of the crossover pipes ... water pump one or firewall one. Still no sign of rust in them ever since either. So maybe you are worrying about a problem that does not exist. With an exception, .... unless your van has previously had the wrong coolant in it of course.


So yes, you should be able to do all the coolant system R&R in situ without removing the pulley, except R&R the water pump crossover pipe.

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2017 3:39 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Pulley
 
 

Thanks Hart,

Yep, two reason's I'm not keen to remove the pulley, don't want to risk damaging the seal as it's currently not leaking, and what you need to remove to make room for a puller!!

I guess I can see how far I get with the pulley in place, and make a call if I need to replace the bits I can't reach. I'm hoping with the AC out of the way, it's only the pipe from the water pump to the RH head I can't get to. If everything else is in good nic, I can just leave it and replace when the water pump needs doing.

No, not this week end, still a few weeks before I get into this. Been a long time coming, and still waiting on a few bits to arrive.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <hartis@...> wrote :


Hi Richard , for my last one i needed a puller. In that case you might want t remove the heat shield as well as the exhaus same time check the expansive double lib oilseal for leaking ?
Looks like your wend is booked!
Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

5

Thanks Ken, good to know. The water pump is not that old, and everything was good then. Always had original coolant and everything I have looked at so far has been in great condition. I'm really just replacing everything to prevent issues in the future, I've had no issues with it to date and cooling has always been good, even in QLD heat and AC running. I'm planning to keep all the parts removed as just in case spares.

I think it's best to leave that pipe unless something looks suspect. No signs of rust any where.

I'm also not replacing the two cross over pipes above the bell housing, I figured mine is fine, and simple to relace if it ever needs it.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :

Hi Richard,

It's pretty much standard procedure now to replace the water pump without first removing the 3x output pulley. However, in that scenario, given the pulley is still in place, that WP R&R procedure does not enable removal of the steel coolant crossover pipe.


If you ever need to work on the oil pump, (in terms of accessibility), perhaps in conjunction, that's a time to consider the possibility of replacing the crossover pipe with SS. Or else whenever the the motor is dropped out.

 spots

Then again, maybe your crossover pipe is in good condition anyway. No sign of rust spots?


Interestingly, way back, I had rust showing in a number of spots on the big steel coolant pipe (passenger side of motor), but no evidence at all of corrosion in either of the crossover pipes ... water pump one or firewall one. Still no sign of rust in them ever since either. So maybe you are worrying about a problem that does not exist. With an exception, .... unless your van has previously had the wrong coolant in it of course.


So yes, you should be able to do all the coolant system R&R in situ without removing the pulley, except R&R the water pump crossover pipe.

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2017 3:39 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Pulley
 
 

Thanks Hart,

Yep, two reason's I'm not keen to remove the pulley, don't want to risk damaging the seal as it's currently not leaking, and what you need to remove to make room for a puller!!

I guess I can see how far I get with the pulley in place, and make a call if I need to replace the bits I can't reach. I'm hoping with the AC out of the way, it's only the pipe from the water pump to the RH head I can't get to. If everything else is in good nic, I can just leave it and replace when the water pump needs doing.

No, not this week end, still a few weeks before I get into this. Been a long time coming, and still waiting on a few bits to arrive.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <hartis@...> wrote :


Hi Richard , for my last one i needed a puller. In that case you might want t remove the heat shield as well as the exhaus same time check the expansive double lib oilseal for leaking ?
Looks like your wend is booked!
Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

6
Hi Richard,

Just replacing my water pump, fun isn't it!  
I was just trying to look up old posts on any tips or advice as am finding it incredibly difficult to access bolts and clamps.
As soon as I remove one bolt or hose clamp I come up against another that appears impossible so I sleep on it and think of a solution and remove it the next day only to come up against another worse one.
Whoever worked on the vehicle before seems to have managed to tighten up all the clamps in such a way that you can't access the clamp bolts or get pliers on the spring tabs to loosen them!  
I now have the water pump out and also got the coolant crossover pipe under the crank pulley out, (I thought this one could not be removed without removing the pulley but after worrying it around for half an hour it just came out.  Like one of those wire puzzles.)  I hope it goes back in again.  
The water pump also took some time to worry out past the coolant crossover pipe.  
All the pipes and hoses appear to be in very good clean condition with no rust.
This job is so much fun though, I would like to replace all the hoses and maybe the oil pressure switch too while it is all out, hoping never to have to go there again.
Any tips on where to get all the hoses? 
Is it OK to just buy it by the metre and cut to length or are the molded curves required?
Are silicone hoses a good upgrade?

Thanks,

Neil.

On ‎Thursday‎, ‎15‎ ‎June‎ ‎2017‎ ‎09‎:‎42‎:‎07‎ ‎PM‎ ‎AEST, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Thanks Ken, good to know. The water pump is not that old, and everything was good then. Always had original coolant and everything I have looked at so far has been in great condition. I'm really just replacing everything to prevent issues in the future, I've had no issues with it to date and cooling has always been good, even in QLD heat and AC running. I'm planning to keep all the parts removed as just in case spares.

I think it's best to leave that pipe unless something looks suspect. No signs of rust any where.

I'm also not replacing the two cross over pipes above the bell housing, I figured mine is fine, and simple to relace if it ever needs it.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :

Hi Richard,

It's pretty much standard procedure now to replace the water pump without first removing the 3x output pulley. However, in that scenario, given the pulley is still in place, that WP R&R procedure does not enable removal of the steel coolant crossover pipe.


If you ever need to work on the oil pump, (in terms of accessibility), perhaps in conjunction, that's a time to consider the possibility of replacing the crossover pipe with SS. Or else whenever the the motor is dropped out.

 spots

Then again, maybe your crossover pipe is in good condition anyway. No sign of rust spots?


Interestingly, way back, I had rust showing in a number of spots on the big steel coolant pipe (passenger side of motor), but no evidence at all of corrosion in either of the crossover pipes ... water pump one or firewall one. Still no sign of rust in them ever since either. So maybe you are worrying about a problem that does not exist. With an exception, .... unless your van has previously had the wrong coolant in it of course.


So yes, you should be able to do all the coolant system R&R in situ without removing the pulley, except R&R the water pump crossover pipe.

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2017 3:39 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Pulley
 
 

Thanks Hart,

Yep, two reason's I'm not keen to remove the pulley, don't want to risk damaging the seal as it's currently not leaking, and what you need to remove to make room for a puller!!

I guess I can see how far I get with the pulley in place, and make a call if I need to replace the bits I can't reach. I'm hoping with the AC out of the way, it's only the pipe from the water pump to the RH head I can't get to. If everything else is in good nic, I can just leave it and replace when the water pump needs doing.

No, not this week end, still a few weeks before I get into this. Been a long time coming, and still waiting on a few bits to arrive.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <hartis@...> wrote :


Hi Richard , for my last one i needed a puller. In that case you might want t remove the heat shield as well as the exhaus same time check the expansive double lib oilseal for leaking ?
Looks like your wend is booked!
Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

7
Hi Neil, yes it's a daunting job. I have not done mine (had it replaced when I first bought the bus). It's certainly a big process for what is a straight forward job on other engines.
I have found with the hose clamps you can get stuck with orientation if they are installed when the engine is out or exhaust off which might give you a different access point.
Glad you got it out and it sounds like it's all looking good inside so far!

It got my hoses from Van Café, and have been happy with them. When I got my kit only a few were silicon. I think their kit is mostly silicon now. Have not heard any bad reports from silicon hoses yet and the few I have are all good. That said many of the hoses I replaced were originals, so lasted a good life.
I would recommend getting a kit from somewhere reputable. Many of the hoses are molded to a shape, you would get kinks in the hoses if they were not in the right shape.
Yes, definitely worth doing the cooler hoses also.
If your doing the oil switch there, Check the adaptor it screws into for leaks around the thread just in case.  I'd also recommend replacing the wire to the switch. They get brittle with age. Again good vendors sell this wire ready to go also if you don't want to make your own.
Regards,
Richard


---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <jackthebearau@...> wrote :

Hi Richard,

Just replacing my water pump, fun isn't it!  
I was just trying to look up old posts on any tips or advice as am finding it incredibly difficult to access bolts and clamps.
As soon as I remove one bolt or hose clamp I come up against another that appears impossible so I sleep on it and think of a solution and remove it the next day only to come up against another worse one.
Whoever worked on the vehicle before seems to have managed to tighten up all the clamps in such a way that you can't access the clamp bolts or get pliers on the spring tabs to loosen them!  
I now have the water pump out and also got the coolant crossover pipe under the crank pulley out, (I thought this one could not be removed without removing the pulley but after worrying it around for half an hour it just came out.  Like one of those wire puzzles.)  I hope it goes back in again.  
The water pump also took some time to worry out past the coolant crossover pipe.  
All the pipes and hoses appear to be in very good clean condition with no rust.
This job is so much fun though, I would like to replace all the hoses and maybe the oil pressure switch too while it is all out, hoping never to have to go there again.
Any tips on where to get all the hoses? 
Is it OK to just buy it by the metre and cut to length or are the molded curves required?
Are silicone hoses a good upgrade?

Thanks,

Neil.

On ‎Thursday‎, ‎15‎ ‎June‎ ‎2017‎ ‎09‎:‎42‎:‎07‎ ‎PM‎ ‎AEST, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Thanks Ken, good to know. The water pump is not that old, and everything was good then. Always had original coolant and everything I have looked at so far has been in great condition. I'm really just replacing everything to prevent issues in the future, I've had no issues with it to date and cooling has always been good, even in QLD heat and AC running. I'm planning to keep all the parts removed as just in case spares.

I think it's best to leave that pipe unless something looks suspect. No signs of rust any where.

I'm also not replacing the two cross over pipes above the bell housing, I figured mine is fine, and simple to relace if it ever needs it.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :

Hi Richard,

It's pretty much standard procedure now to replace the water pump without first removing the 3x output pulley. However, in that scenario, given the pulley is still in place, that WP R&R procedure does not enable removal of the steel coolant crossover pipe.


If you ever need to work on the oil pump, (in terms of accessibility), perhaps in conjunction, that's a time to consider the possibility of replacing the crossover pipe with SS. Or else whenever the the motor is dropped out.

 spots

Then again, maybe your crossover pipe is in good condition anyway. No sign of rust spots?


Interestingly, way back, I had rust showing in a number of spots on the big steel coolant pipe (passenger side of motor), but no evidence at all of corrosion in either of the crossover pipes ... water pump one or firewall one. Still no sign of rust in them ever since either. So maybe you are worrying about a problem that does not exist. With an exception, .... unless your van has previously had the wrong coolant in it of course.


So yes, you should be able to do all the coolant system R&R in situ without removing the pulley, except R&R the water pump crossover pipe.

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2017 3:39 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Pulley
 
 

Thanks Hart,

Yep, two reason's I'm not keen to remove the pulley, don't want to risk damaging the seal as it's currently not leaking, and what you need to remove to make room for a puller!!

I guess I can see how far I get with the pulley in place, and make a call if I need to replace the bits I can't reach. I'm hoping with the AC out of the way, it's only the pipe from the water pump to the RH head I can't get to. If everything else is in good nic, I can just leave it and replace when the water pump needs doing.

No, not this week end, still a few weeks before I get into this. Been a long time coming, and still waiting on a few bits to arrive.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <hartis@...> wrote :


Hi Richard , for my last one i needed a puller. In that case you might want t remove the heat shield as well as the exhaus same time check the expansive double lib oilseal for leaking ?
Looks like your wend is booked!
Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

8
Hi Richard,

Thanks for that.  I decided to just replace the hoses around the water pump for now and will do the other more accessible ones later.  Got the correct shaped rubber ones from Tooleys but they didn't have the whole set.  I have replaced the oil pressure switch and will do the wire as well, am having a lot of trouble getting the crossover pipe back in, might have to take the pulley off after all but it did come out easy so I can't figure out why it wont go back in.  I will keep at it,

Neil.

On Monday, 25 March 2019, 04:18:10 am AEDT, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Hi Neil, yes it's a daunting job. I have not done mine (had it replaced when I first bought the bus). It's certainly a big process for what is a straight forward job on other engines.
I have found with the hose clamps you can get stuck with orientation if they are installed when the engine is out or exhaust off which might give you a different access point.
Glad you got it out and it sounds like it's all looking good inside so far!

It got my hoses from Van Café, and have been happy with them. When I got my kit only a few were silicon. I think their kit is mostly silicon now. Have not heard any bad reports from silicon hoses yet and the few I have are all good. That said many of the hoses I replaced were originals, so lasted a good life.
I would recommend getting a kit from somewhere reputable. Many of the hoses are molded to a shape, you would get kinks in the hoses if they were not in the right shape.
Yes, definitely worth doing the cooler hoses also.
If your doing the oil switch there, Check the adaptor it screws into for leaks around the thread just in case.  I'd also recommend replacing the wire to the switch. They get brittle with age. Again good vendors sell this wire ready to go also if you don't want to make your own.
Regards,
Richard


---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <jackthebearau@...> wrote :

Hi Richard,

Just replacing my water pump, fun isn't it!  
I was just trying to look up old posts on any tips or advice as am finding it incredibly difficult to access bolts and clamps.
As soon as I remove one bolt or hose clamp I come up against another that appears impossible so I sleep on it and think of a solution and remove it the next day only to come up against another worse one.
Whoever worked on the vehicle before seems to have managed to tighten up all the clamps in such a way that you can't access the clamp bolts or get pliers on the spring tabs to loosen them!  
I now have the water pump out and also got the coolant crossover pipe under the crank pulley out, (I thought this one could not be removed without removing the pulley but after worrying it around for half an hour it just came out.  Like one of those wire puzzles.)  I hope it goes back in again.  
The water pump also took some time to worry out past the coolant crossover pipe.  
All the pipes and hoses appear to be in very good clean condition with no rust.
This job is so much fun though, I would like to replace all the hoses and maybe the oil pressure switch too while it is all out, hoping never to have to go there again.
Any tips on where to get all the hoses? 
Is it OK to just buy it by the metre and cut to length or are the molded curves required?
Are silicone hoses a good upgrade?

Thanks,

Neil.

On ‎Thursday‎, ‎15‎ ‎June‎ ‎2017‎ ‎09‎:‎42‎:‎07‎ ‎PM‎ ‎AEST, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Thanks Ken, good to know. The water pump is not that old, and everything was good then. Always had original coolant and everything I have looked at so far has been in great condition. I'm really just replacing everything to prevent issues in the future, I've had no issues with it to date and cooling has always been good, even in QLD heat and AC running. I'm planning to keep all the parts removed as just in case spares.

I think it's best to leave that pipe unless something looks suspect. No signs of rust any where.

I'm also not replacing the two cross over pipes above the bell housing, I figured mine is fine, and simple to relace if it ever needs it.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :

Hi Richard,

It's pretty much standard procedure now to replace the water pump without first removing the 3x output pulley. However, in that scenario, given the pulley is still in place, that WP R&R procedure does not enable removal of the steel coolant crossover pipe.


If you ever need to work on the oil pump, (in terms of accessibility), perhaps in conjunction, that's a time to consider the possibility of replacing the crossover pipe with SS. Or else whenever the the motor is dropped out.

 spots

Then again, maybe your crossover pipe is in good condition anyway. No sign of rust spots?


Interestingly, way back, I had rust showing in a number of spots on the big steel coolant pipe (passenger side of motor), but no evidence at all of corrosion in either of the crossover pipes ... water pump one or firewall one. Still no sign of rust in them ever since either. So maybe you are worrying about a problem that does not exist. With an exception, .... unless your van has previously had the wrong coolant in it of course.


So yes, you should be able to do all the coolant system R&R in situ without removing the pulley, except R&R the water pump crossover pipe.

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2017 3:39 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Pulley
 
 

Thanks Hart,

Yep, two reason's I'm not keen to remove the pulley, don't want to risk damaging the seal as it's currently not leaking, and what you need to remove to make room for a puller!!

I guess I can see how far I get with the pulley in place, and make a call if I need to replace the bits I can't reach. I'm hoping with the AC out of the way, it's only the pipe from the water pump to the RH head I can't get to. If everything else is in good nic, I can just leave it and replace when the water pump needs doing.

No, not this week end, still a few weeks before I get into this. Been a long time coming, and still waiting on a few bits to arrive.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <hartis@...> wrote :


Hi Richard , for my last one i needed a puller. In that case you might want t remove the heat shield as well as the exhaus same time check the expansive double lib oilseal for leaking ?
Looks like your wend is booked!
Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

9
Sounds great Neil.  Hopefully you can get the cross over pipe back in!! It is a tight spot, but as you said if it came out OK, it must go back in. No problems doing the system in stages!!

That reminds me, I was thinking of making another set of the stainless pipes to replace the plastic ones, only re-doing some of the bends for a neater fit, but also to add a fitting into the low point of each pipe that is easily removed to drain the system without having to disconnect any hoses. Not sure I will get around to doing that at this stage.

Regards,
Richard
10
Hi Neil and Richard,
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm ... for sure, need a show & tell on this "interesting" one.

I've replaced the water pump twice and puzzled over the need/possibility of removing the metal crossover pipe.
I concluded on both occasions that it can't be done. So there you go. First time in 12 years of ownership have I heard on here that the crossover pipe can be removed with the motor and triple pulley still in-situ.

Anyway, unless one feels the need to closely inspect the internal surfaces for rust of that pipe or it needs replacing, then the pipe does not need to be removed. 

With the crossover pipe in place, I agree its end flange interferes with, so prevents removal of the water pump. Trick to get around that is to simply remove (or cut off if old) the short rubber connecting hose at the cylinder head end. So doing  enables the pipe to be moved sufficiently sideways so as to gain enough clearance to pull the pump. Voila!

To reassemble, with the new pump fitted, then refit first the pipe flange to the water pump (aids correct re-alignment), then next install the short rubber hose. It can be worked through the available gap at the end of the pipe, a little rubber grease helps that process.

I agree, it's so much fun eh!
Cheers.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 29 March 2019 11:59 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Pulley
 
 

Sounds great Neil.  Hopefully you can get the cross over pipe back in!! It is a tight spot, but as you said if it came out OK, it must go back in. No problems doing the system in stages!!

That reminds me, I was thinking of making another set of the stainless pipes to replace the plastic ones, only re-doing some of the bends for a neater fit, but also to add a fitting into the low point of each pipe that is easily removed to drain the system without having to disconnect any hoses. Not sure I will get around to doing that at this stage.

Regards,
Richard