Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] re: Don't roll or bu mp start your syncro in reverseþ

1
I get and sometimes sell Sold State Adjustable Voltage Regulators for Bosch alternators.
I seldom bother having one these days, as stock output seems good enough to me, 'usually.'
 
The alternator rebuilder shop I originally found out about these adjustable regulators from, sets them at 14.7 volts, which seems a tad high to me.
I do set them to 14.5 volts.
And I don't think that will cook a battery, not by itself anyway.
It can make the lights a bit brighter too perhaps.
And a nice good charge helps starter performance too.
 
I only use conventional lead-acid batteries, the kind you can access the cells in too. No sealed batteries, no optima's etc.
They 'just work' in my experience.
 
longer slower charging times for batteries that need charging .....is always better I believe.
I had a battery charged in Baja California, Mexico once, in the early 70's.
they charged it overnight in series with another 12 volt battery I think....charging them both together over a 10 hours period with 24 volts, since it's two 12's in series.
 
charging batteries that are flat with an alternator is not the best thing to do.
Alternators are not meant for that.
I don't jump start cars either if I can help it. - that can harm things.
And I'm sure everyone knows deep cycle batteries are not meant to be discharged below about half I think......
though others would know much more than I about that.
 
Scott
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] re: Don't roll or bump start your syncro in reverseþ

 

Ken,
There is adjustable regulators, but I wouldn't bother. You have to be very careful with this type of thing as you can easily cook your batteries. Alternator regulators are set at a certain voltage for a reason. No matter what you do, you need to drive for many hours to charge a battery. If you try and charge a battery in 6 hours, it will get very hot. How often do you drive continuosly for 6 hours anyway? It is best to charge at 10+hours.

I hate the smell of battery gas!

The 14V is probably just a nominal voltage anyway.

Phill

> Ken <unclekenz@hotmail. com> wrote:
>
>
> Phill,
>
> Ok thanks, I agree this is logical especially if piddling Trakka power
> cables are still installed. Voltage drop etc plays an adverse role here.
>
> Some time ago I upgraded all my auxiliary power and earth return cabling
> re: alternator <-> isolator <->camping battery <-> fridge etc. So
> despite longer cable runs, I believe this cabling would achieve what you
> are suggesting anyway. For example, with my present cabling, the
> specialist camping fridge proprietor who refurbished my fridge, load
> tested my van cabling and he gave it a big tick. So really at this
> point, my first priority is finding/resolving the ongoing current loss
> issue.
>
> On another matter, from memory, I think the stock voltage regulator in
> the 90amp Bosch alternator maxxes out at about 14 volts. Do you agree
> with that? Alternators in other vehicles seem to regulate higher. I
> understand the smart charging kits that wire into the alternator circuit
> manipulate regulation to achieve speedier and higher output, all done
> without adverse effect to the alternator, as with John Figgis's setup.
> So without going to the expense of such a smart charge kit, I've always
> wondered whether there is room for a compromise ... find a regulator
> that outputs marginally higher than the stock regulator. Both my
> batteries can handle higher input and storage level, hence this thought.
> Any comments on this? Also, are you aware of sources of exact fit
> regulators that offer either higher fixed or adjustable setting
> regulation?
>
> Cheers. Ken
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, plander@... wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Phill,
> > >
> > > Am I misunderstanding your tip?
> > >
> >
> > Yes.
> >
> >
> > Put the dual battery isolator physically close to the alternator.
> > Connect fridge etc at the isolator, not at the battery.
> >
> > The cable to the aux. battery from the alternator is then only used to
> charge the battery (engine running) and nothing else.
> >

2
Scott,
I'd be interested to review and satisfy myself whether or not these adjustable regulators are fit for my own purpose.
 
If you would post here any links you may have to these, especially for the stock Bosch 90 amp alternator, I'd appreciate it. TIA.
Cheers.
Ken
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 13:09:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] re: Don't roll or bump start your syncro in reverseþ

 
I get and sometimes sell Sold State Adjustable Voltage Regulators for Bosch alternators.
I seldom bother having one these days, as stock output seems good enough to me, 'usually.'
 
The alternator rebuilder shop I originally found out about these adjustable regulators from, sets them at 14.7 volts, which seems a tad high to me.
I do set them to 14.5 volts.
And I don't think that will cook a battery, not by itself anyway.
It can make the lights a bit brighter too perhaps.
And a nice good charge helps starter performance too.
 
I only use conventional lead-acid batteries, the kind you can access the cells in too. No sealed batteries, no optima's etc.
They 'just work' in my experience.
 
longer slower charging times for batteries that need charging .....is always better I believe.
I had a battery charged in Baja California, Mexico once, in the early 70's.
they charged it overnight in series with another 12 volt battery I think....charging them both together over a 10 hours period with 24 volts, since it's two 12's in series.
 
charging batteries that are flat with an alternator is not the best thing to do.
Alternators are not meant for that.
I don't jump start cars either if I can help it. - that can harm things.
And I'm sure everyone knows deep cycle batteries are not meant to be discharged below about half I think......
though others would know much more than I about that.
 
Scott
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 14, 2010 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] re: Don't roll or bump start your syncro in reverseþ

 

Ken,
There is adjustable regulators, but I wouldn't bother. You have to be very careful with this type of thing as you can easily cook your batteries. Alternator regulators are set at a certain voltage for a reason. No matter what you do, you need to drive for many hours to charge a battery. If you try and charge a battery in 6 hours, it will get very hot. How often do you drive continuosly for 6 hours anyway? It is best to charge at 10+hours.

I hate the smell of battery gas!

The 14V is probably just a nominal voltage anyway.

Phill

> Ken <unclekenz@hotmail. com> wrote:
>
>
> Phill,
>
> Ok thanks, I agree this is logical especially if piddling Trakka power
> cables are still installed. Voltage drop etc plays an adverse role here.
>
> Some time ago I upgraded all my auxiliary power and earth return cabling
> re: alternator <-> isolator <->camping battery <-> fridge etc. So
> despite longer cable runs, I believe this cabling would achieve what you
> are suggesting anyway. For example, with my present cabling, the
> specialist camping fridge proprietor who refurbished my fridge, load
> tested my van cabling and he gave it a big tick. So really at this
> point, my first priority is finding/resolving the ongoing current loss
> issue.
>
> On another matter, from memory, I think the stock voltage regulator in
> the 90amp Bosch alternator maxxes out at about 14 volts. Do you agree
> with that? Alternators in other vehicles seem to regulate higher. I
> understand the smart charging kits that wire into the alternator circuit
> manipulate regulation to achieve speedier and higher output, all done
> without adverse effect to the alternator, as with John Figgis's setup.
> So without going to the expense of such a smart charge kit, I've always
> wondered whether there is room for a compromise ... find a regulator
> that outputs marginally higher than the stock regulator. Both my
> batteries can handle higher input and storage level, hence this thought.
> Any comments on this? Also, are you aware of sources of exact fit
> regulators that offer either higher fixed or adjustable setting
> regulation?
>
> Cheers. Ken
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, plander@... wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Phill,
> > >
> > > Am I misunderstanding your tip?
> > >
> >
> > Yes.
> >
> >
> > Put the dual battery isolator physically close to the alternator.
> > Connect fridge etc at the isolator, not at the battery.
> >
> > The cable to the aux. battery from the alternator is then only used to
> charge the battery (engine running) and nothing else.
> >



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