Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure

Hello All,
Coming up from Melbourne along the East Coast, the van developed high
temperature and oil pressure. No red light though.Only info through the
gauges. I have recently installed SS cooling pipes and this was not a
problem in Melbourne. The water temperature gauge is nicely on the left
side, never over the mid-line. My gut feeling is that I might have an air
lock just around the oil cooler. Does this make sense? In the past long
journeys, my gauges indicated fine but now it is indicating well over the
mark. By the way, I am using Mobile 1. Any suggestion?

Cheers,
Theo

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I would be shocked if there is anything like air lock around the oil cooler.
So I'd say, no that does not make sense.
 
I install 2.1 waterboxer engines left and right ..
like dozens of times a year.
 I am sure I have mentioned on this list about how I 'bleed' them ...
 which is nothing fancy or complicated at all..
  and in hundreds of T3 syncro 2.1 engines installed...I have never had any issue about 'air locks' ..
I basically don't believe in it ..though it's possible of course............I suppose.
 
warmer is better.
I like on the right side of the LED in the temp gauge, with the gauge being accurate of course..
which they usually   are.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure

 

Hello All,
Coming up from Melbourne along the East Coast, the van developed high
temperature and oil pressure. No red light though.Only info through the
gauges. I have recently installed SS cooling pipes and this was not a
problem in Melbourne. The water temperature gauge is nicely on the left
side, never over the mid-line. My gut feeling is that I might have an air
lock just around the oil cooler. Does this make sense? In the past long
journeys, my gauges indicated fine but now it is indicating well over the
mark. By the way, I am using Mobile 1. Any suggestion?

Cheers,
Theo

Message sent using MelbPC WebMail Server

Hi Theo - it would be unusual for the van to suddenly develop high oil pressure on a jaunt down the highway. Problems are indicated by loss of pressure.

Since both gauges are simultaneously reading high, it sounds like an electrical glitch.

  I'd be cleaning the earth connections between the between the battery and the frame, the engine and the bodywork, and the chassis and the transmission just for luck. [It's a good idea to do this occasionally anyway, especially if operating in a corrosive environment, like beach driving]. While you're at it, remove the glovebox and clean earth connections on the brown wires that are connected in a circle to the bodywork near the passenger's door hinge.

  A can of contact cleaner and a Dremel-style tool make the job easy.

   I remember reading somewhere that most electrical problems can be traced to dirty connections or a bad earth.

  If that doesn't work, try switching various electrical circuits on and off with the engine running to see if it makes a difference. Do it slowly, one switch at a time, to give the gauges plenty of time to react.

I once had a car where the gauges slowly climbed after I switched on the heater fan, and subsided when I turned them off. It varied according to the fan speed setting. Don't ask me why, but when I  cleaning every connection I could find, the problem disappeared.

  It was a pommy car though. The crest on the owner's manual said "By Royal Appointment", and I soon learnt that it would only start if I tugged my forelock with proper subservience before respectfully requesting it to proceed out of the driveway.

                                                                                     Cheers, Roger [beetle] Bayley.



Hi Roger,
Sorry,I did'nt express my self clearly. The oil temp. goes up past the
mid point on the gauge and then the oil pressure starts to drop.
That's when I slow down or stop all together,have a cupa,then oil
pressure comes up and oil temp.comes down and of we go. This scenario
never happened before. Even when I have had the misshap with the puntured
oil filter last year.
Why I thought it might be an airlock - I changed the coolant pipes but
the water temp. gauge looks OK. The VW mechanic in Coffs Harbour
suggested a oil & filter change as a first step,but it made no difference.
We have been unable to get connrcted for a couple of days.

Cheers,
Theo




Hi Theo - it would be unusual for the van to suddenly develop high oil
> pressure on a jaunt down the highway. Problems are indicated by loss of
> pressure.
>
> Since both gauges are simultaneously reading high, it sounds like an
> electrical glitch.
>
> I'd be cleaning the earth connections between the between the battery
and
> the frame, the engine and the bodywork, and the chassis and the
> transmission just for luck. [It's a good idea to do this occasionally
anyway,
> especially if operating in a corrosive environment, like beach
driving]. While you're
> at it, remove the glovebox and clean earth connections on the brown
wires
> that are connected in a circle to the bodywork near the passenger's
door
> hinge.
>
> A can of contact cleaner and a Dremel-style tool make the job easy.
>
> I remember reading somewhere that most electrical problems can be
traced
> to dirty connections or a bad earth.
>
> If that doesn't work, try switching various electrical circuits on
and
> off with the engine running to see if it makes a difference. Do it
slowly, one
> switch at a time, to give the gauges plenty of time to react.
>
> I once had a car where the gauges slowly climbed after I switched on
the
> heater fan, and subsided when I turned them off. It varied according to
the
> fan speed setting. Don't ask me why, but when I cleaning every
connection I
> could find, the problem disappeared.
>
> It was a pommy car though. The crest on the owner's manual said "By
Royal
> Appointment", and I soon learnt that it would only start if I tugged my
> forelock with proper subservience before respectfully requesting it to
proceed
> out of the driveway.
>
>

> Cheers, Roger [beetle] Bayley.
>
>
>


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mmmmmm ........

                         Back when I studied this stuff thirty years ago, good quality multigrade engine oils could handle up to 120 degrees before breaking down and losing viscosity. They have probably improved since then.

  If you can feel the hoses on the oil-cooler when the engine is running you might be able to tell if their is an air lock or blockage. [Watch your fingers with the pulley though!]. The inlet hose should be cooler than the outlet. The safest and most accurate method would be to use a thermo probe. My local muffler and radiator shop has one - they just point the laser dot onto a component for an instantaneous digital readout.

       Hang in there .... Roger.