Welcome back Peter and ALL,
Since my last post on this topic, I have renovated Yuriks AFM that I bought from him as a backup (and added the 22 uF cap) and installed it instead to check it for functionality. I also wanted to try it without an AFM harness attachment, so that's removed again. All I've done so far is driven locally with no failure to date, touch wood. I need more time and kilometres to see how things go. Needless to say, the AFM harness attachment is there onboard ready to fit, should things suddenly go awry.
So the bottom line is, I now have 2 equally renovated AFM's, the first difference I can detect is some different comparative resistance values at the 11 points on the board. But from my testing, the resistance values obtained at each point merely reflects the downwards pressure and hence better/worse conductivity present at each point between the swinging arm and the board. One only has to apply slight pressure on the arm to see the values change. The second difference is that with my AFM fitted, I had the vanagon syndrome event, whereas so far (but needs more trialling), Yuriks hasn't failed yet.
A couple of other related matters I can report while I'm back on this topic ......
The hard plastic cover on top of the AFM that has to be prised off to get at the inner workings as per Peters detailed instructions in the files section .... well should you find the plastic edging is split/separating as a consequence of prising it off, fear not, there is an excellent repair solution.
Go buy from Repco a product called "QBond", follow the instructions and your plastic cover will look and perform and be able to be resealed in place again like new. Unbelievable but true. This product has many uses around our vans, for example .... those who have the aftermarket Prestige air conditioner system ... the above dash a/c unit has a moulded black plastic cover with the louvres in it. Take a close look at each vertical corner of that cover, you will probably find they are all splitting badly. Now with some experimenting and developing your repair technique, all those splits can be restored using QBond, trim/sand back the repairs, a touch of black paint and it's virtually as good as new again.
For those who have the AFM harness attachment, go take a look at it. You'll probably find the larger rubber boot is starting to split or is by now totally disintegrated, exposing the innards to the elements, dust etc.
Using a 2 pack rubberised 2 pack epoxy called "HK Epoxy", I built over the top of the old boot a new boot, I moulded it so it extends past both zip ties at either end of the boot. Fully sealed now and is also flexible, white in colour so it matches my van .. haha
Oh and the HK Epoxy can be used to reseal the AFM plastic cover back on ... no need to use silicone ... silicone is way to hard to get off (and damage the cover again) should it need to come off later. HK Epoxy is just the best product almost anywhere a water seal is needed, either on the job, in and around your home or syncro .... guaranteed
Cheers.
Ken
--- On Fri, 8/5/09, Peter <kestel.p@bigpond.com> wrote:
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