Rear CV Boot Removal.

1
Good morning everyone noticed recently rear cv boot has perished and as a result has rust proofed a fair area!!! anyhow my question to the group, what is the procedure for boot replacement, ie rear transmission side? Any Tips would be most appreciated.
Regards Richard.
2
Hi Richard,
I have never taken a CV boot apart however there is plenty of manuels out there that will walk you through the proceedure. Be aware a syncro CV boot is made more robust than your standard or cheap copy. Buy only original CV Boots. Check out the GO Westy website for tips and info regarding this.
I recently purchased a 1991 Syncro and got hold of a large bore needle or canula (hospital grade) and warmed a tub of quality CV grease in the sun and filled all 8 boots using a silicone gun and large syringes filled with grease. The key here is not to tear the boot to prevent dirt, etc. getting in and only access the boot with a small puncture from the needle that closes up when removed. It worked and the cv joints that were making a racket are running like silk. NB: this method is not VW certified! But works.
Just be careful that you dont strip the CV bolts when removing and have the right tool for the job. Replace the bolts if necessary. They are messy things so disposable gloves are handy. Clean the CV joint with degreaser, etc. as good as possible, plenty of rags , paper towels, etc. Get some quality CV grease for the inner bearings and I believe as above Pack an extra amount in the joint, it cant hurt.
Good luck. Hope my advice helps
Dave



--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Nicholls" <richardnicholls74@...> wrote:
>
> Good morning everyone noticed recently rear cv boot has perished and as a result has rust proofed a fair area!!! anyhow my question to the group, what is the procedure for boot replacement, ie rear transmission side? Any Tips would be most appreciated.
> Regards Richard.
>
3
The boots in the rear are not that hard to replace.
First, remove the axle ...undo both ends.
If the screws are 6mm allen type ..they strip out easily.
there are tricks to getting them to unscrew properly. It is not hard to strip one out.
 
there are better later type screws made of harder material ..they have a multi-point star type hole in the screw heads. I usually install those going back together.
 
the hardest part about replacing the boot is getting the CV joint off the axle.
There's a circlip.
Sometimes the CV joint just slides off the axle.
Usually they need to be persuaded some ..
a shop press being the correct tool.
 
I usually swap them end-for-end.
I believe the inner ones by the trans run hotter, and wear out sooner.
I put in more grease than is specified...I have seen *many* pretty dry CV joints.
I use black moly graph grease always with excellent results.
I don't pack the boots ..
but I do put in perhaps half again as much as comes with a boot kit ..
I fill the flange bowl with grease too. Usually a lot squeases out when I tighten downt the screws .
have fun !
 
scott
----- Original Message -----
From: David
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 8:22 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Rear CV Boot Removal.

 


Hi Richard,
I have never taken a CV boot apart however there is plenty of manuels out there that will walk you through the proceedure. Be aware a syncro CV boot is made more robust than your standard or cheap copy. Buy only original CV Boots. Check out the GO Westy website for tips and info regarding this.
I recently purchased a 1991 Syncro and got hold of a large bore needle or canula (hospital grade) and warmed a tub of quality CV grease in the sun and filled all 8 boots using a silicone gun and large syringes filled with grease. The key here is not to tear the boot to prevent dirt, etc. getting in and only access the boot with a small puncture from the needle that closes up when removed. It worked and the cv joints that were making a racket are running like silk. NB: this method is not VW certified! But works.
Just be careful that you dont strip the CV bolts when removing and have the right tool for the job. Replace the bolts if necessary. They are messy things so disposable gloves are handy. Clean the CV joint with degreaser, etc. as good as possible, plenty of rags , paper towels, etc. Get some quality CV grease for the inner bearings and I believe as above Pack an extra amount in the joint, it cant hurt.
Good luck. Hope my advice helps
Dave

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Nicholls" <richardnicholls74@...> wrote:
>
> Good morning everyone noticed recently rear cv boot has perished and as a result has rust proofed a fair area!!! anyhow my question to the group, what is the procedure for boot replacement, ie rear transmission side? Any Tips would be most appreciated.
> Regards Richard.
>

4
Hey thanks for the tips i do have a couple of beetle /bay manuals just was not sure if syncro was any different?....now just waiting for boots to arrive and get into it.
Regards Richard.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
>
> The boots in the rear are not that hard to replace.
> First, remove the axle ...undo both ends.
> If the screws are 6mm allen type ..they strip out easily.
> there are tricks to getting them to unscrew properly. It is not hard to strip one out.
>
> there are better later type screws made of harder material ..they have a multi-point star type hole in the screw heads. I usually install those going back together.
>
> the hardest part about replacing the boot is getting the CV joint off the axle.
> There's a circlip.
> Sometimes the CV joint just slides off the axle.
> Usually they need to be persuaded some ..
> a shop press being the correct tool.
>
> I usually swap them end-for-end.
> I believe the inner ones by the trans run hotter, and wear out sooner.
> I put in more grease than is specified...I have seen *many* pretty dry CV joints.
> I use black moly graph grease always with excellent results.
> I don't pack the boots ..
> but I do put in perhaps half again as much as comes with a boot kit ..
> I fill the flange bowl with grease too. Usually a lot squeases out when I tighten downt the screws .
> have fun !
>
> scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 8:22 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Rear CV Boot Removal.
>
>
>
>
> Hi Richard,
> I have never taken a CV boot apart however there is plenty of manuels out there that will walk you through the proceedure. Be aware a syncro CV boot is made more robust than your standard or cheap copy. Buy only original CV Boots. Check out the GO Westy website for tips and info regarding this.
> I recently purchased a 1991 Syncro and got hold of a large bore needle or canula (hospital grade) and warmed a tub of quality CV grease in the sun and filled all 8 boots using a silicone gun and large syringes filled with grease. The key here is not to tear the boot to prevent dirt, etc. getting in and only access the boot with a small puncture from the needle that closes up when removed. It worked and the cv joints that were making a racket are running like silk. NB: this method is not VW certified! But works.
> Just be careful that you dont strip the CV bolts when removing and have the right tool for the job. Replace the bolts if necessary. They are messy things so disposable gloves are handy. Clean the CV joint with degreaser, etc. as good as possible, plenty of rags , paper towels, etc. Get some quality CV grease for the inner bearings and I believe as above Pack an extra amount in the joint, it cant hurt.
> Good luck. Hope my advice helps
> Dave
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Nicholls" <richardnicholls74@> wrote:
> >
> > Good morning everyone noticed recently rear cv boot has perished and as a result has rust proofed a fair area!!! anyhow my question to the group, what is the procedure for boot replacement, ie rear transmission side? Any Tips would be most appreciated.
> > Regards Richard.
> >
>
5
just be noticed that the inner race and outer race of bearing have their side. Watch carefully and take picture if possible befor disamble it.

Sent from Boon's iPad2

On 7 พ.ย. 2554, at 11:43, "Richard Nicholls" <richardnicholls74@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

 

Hey thanks for the tips i do have a couple of beetle /bay manuals just was not sure if syncro was any different?....now just waiting for boots to arrive and get into it.
Regards Richard.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
>
> The boots in the rear are not that hard to replace.
> First, remove the axle ...undo both ends.
> If the screws are 6mm allen type ..they strip out easily.
> there are tricks to getting them to unscrew properly. It is not hard to strip one out.
>
> there are better later type screws made of harder material ..they have a multi-point star type hole in the screw heads. I usually install those going back together.
>
> the hardest part about replacing the boot is getting the CV joint off the axle.
> There's a circlip.
> Sometimes the CV joint just slides off the axle.
> Usually they need to be persuaded some ..
> a shop press being the correct tool.
>
> I usually swap them end-for-end.
> I believe the inner ones by the trans run hotter, and wear out sooner.
> I put in more grease than is specified...I have seen *many* pretty dry CV joints.
> I use black moly graph grease always with excellent results.
> I don't pack the boots ..
> but I do put in perhaps half again as much as comes with a boot kit ..
> I fill the flange bowl with grease too. Usually a lot squeases out when I tighten downt the screws .
> have fun !
>
> scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 8:22 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Rear CV Boot Removal.
>
>
>
>
> Hi Richard,
> I have never taken a CV boot apart however there is plenty of manuels out there that will walk you through the proceedure. Be aware a syncro CV boot is made more robust than your standard or cheap copy. Buy only original CV Boots. Check out the GO Westy website for tips and info regarding this.
> I recently purchased a 1991 Syncro and got hold of a large bore needle or canula (hospital grade) and warmed a tub of quality CV grease in the sun and filled all 8 boots using a silicone gun and large syringes filled with grease. The key here is not to tear the boot to prevent dirt, etc. getting in and only access the boot with a small puncture from the needle that closes up when removed. It worked and the cv joints that were making a racket are running like silk. NB: this method is not VW certified! But works.
> Just be careful that you dont strip the CV bolts when removing and have the right tool for the job. Replace the bolts if necessary. They are messy things so disposable gloves are handy. Clean the CV joint with degreaser, etc. as good as possible, plenty of rags , paper towels, etc. Get some quality CV grease for the inner bearings and I believe as above Pack an extra amount in the joint, it cant hurt.
> Good luck. Hope my advice helps
> Dave
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Nicholls" <richardnicholls74@> wrote:
> >
> > Good morning everyone noticed recently rear cv boot has perished and as a result has rust proofed a fair area!!! anyhow my question to the group, what is the procedure for boot replacement, ie rear transmission side? Any Tips would be most appreciated.
> > Regards Richard.
> >
>

6
there was a clue that bay's CV can be used with T3 's rear axel. The dimension is the same but not garantee in long term.

Sent from Boon's iPad2

On 7 พ.ย. 2554, at 11:43, "Richard Nicholls" <richardnicholls74@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

 

Hey thanks for the tips i do have a couple of beetle /bay manuals just was not sure if syncro was any different?....now just waiting for boots to arrive and get into it.
Regards Richard.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
>
> The boots in the rear are not that hard to replace.
> First, remove the axle ...undo both ends.
> If the screws are 6mm allen type ..they strip out easily.
> there are tricks to getting them to unscrew properly. It is not hard to strip one out.
>
> there are better later type screws made of harder material ..they have a multi-point star type hole in the screw heads. I usually install those going back together.
>
> the hardest part about replacing the boot is getting the CV joint off the axle.
> There's a circlip.
> Sometimes the CV joint just slides off the axle.
> Usually they need to be persuaded some ..
> a shop press being the correct tool.
>
> I usually swap them end-for-end.
> I believe the inner ones by the trans run hotter, and wear out sooner.
> I put in more grease than is specified...I have seen *many* pretty dry CV joints.
> I use black moly graph grease always with excellent results.
> I don't pack the boots ..
> but I do put in perhaps half again as much as comes with a boot kit ..
> I fill the flange bowl with grease too. Usually a lot squeases out when I tighten downt the screws .
> have fun !
>
> scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 8:22 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Rear CV Boot Removal.
>
>
>
>
> Hi Richard,
> I have never taken a CV boot apart however there is plenty of manuels out there that will walk you through the proceedure. Be aware a syncro CV boot is made more robust than your standard or cheap copy. Buy only original CV Boots. Check out the GO Westy website for tips and info regarding this.
> I recently purchased a 1991 Syncro and got hold of a large bore needle or canula (hospital grade) and warmed a tub of quality CV grease in the sun and filled all 8 boots using a silicone gun and large syringes filled with grease. The key here is not to tear the boot to prevent dirt, etc. getting in and only access the boot with a small puncture from the needle that closes up when removed. It worked and the cv joints that were making a racket are running like silk. NB: this method is not VW certified! But works.
> Just be careful that you dont strip the CV bolts when removing and have the right tool for the job. Replace the bolts if necessary. They are messy things so disposable gloves are handy. Clean the CV joint with degreaser, etc. as good as possible, plenty of rags , paper towels, etc. Get some quality CV grease for the inner bearings and I believe as above Pack an extra amount in the joint, it cant hurt.
> Good luck. Hope my advice helps
> Dave
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Nicholls" <richardnicholls74@> wrote:
> >
> > Good morning everyone noticed recently rear cv boot has perished and as a result has rust proofed a fair area!!! anyhow my question to the group, what is the procedure for boot replacement, ie rear transmission side? Any Tips would be most appreciated.
> > Regards Richard.
> >
>

7
Hi Richard..
the rear of a T3 Syncro is the same as an IRS VW Bug, axle wise.
Same deal..
remove the CV joint screws on both CV's, remove the axle.
 
you will want the green Bentley Manual for your syncro though ..
kinda mandatory if you work on it yourself..
 -  that's the fun part after all !
 
Scott
turbovans.com
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 8:43 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Rear CV Boot Removal.

 

Hey thanks for the tips i do have a couple of beetle /bay manuals just was not sure if syncro was any different?....now just waiting for boots to arrive and get into it.
Regards Richard.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
>
> The boots in the rear are not that hard to replace.
> First, remove the axle ...undo both ends.
> If the screws are 6mm allen type ..they strip out easily.
> there are tricks to getting them to unscrew properly. It is not hard to strip one out.
>
> there are better later type screws made of harder material ..they have a multi-point star type hole in the screw heads. I usually install those going back together.
>
> the hardest part about replacing the boot is getting the CV joint off the axle.
> There's a circlip.
> Sometimes the CV joint just slides off the axle.
> Usually they need to be persuaded some ..
> a shop press being the correct tool.
>
> I usually swap them end-for-end.
> I believe the inner ones by the trans run hotter, and wear out sooner.
> I put in more grease than is specified...I have seen *many* pretty dry CV joints.
> I use black moly graph grease always with excellent results.
> I don't pack the boots ..
> but I do put in perhaps half again as much as comes with a boot kit ..
> I fill the flange bowl with grease too. Usually a lot squeases out when I tighten downt the screws .
> have fun !
>
> scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 8:22 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Rear CV Boot Removal.
>
>
>
>
> Hi Richard,
> I have never taken a CV boot apart however there is plenty of manuels out there that will walk you through the proceedure. Be aware a syncro CV boot is made more robust than your standard or cheap copy. Buy only original CV Boots. Check out the GO Westy website for tips and info regarding this.
> I recently purchased a 1991 Syncro and got hold of a large bore needle or canula (hospital grade) and warmed a tub of quality CV grease in the sun and filled all 8 boots using a silicone gun and large syringes filled with grease. The key here is not to tear the boot to prevent dirt, etc. getting in and only access the boot with a small puncture from the needle that closes up when removed. It worked and the cv joints that were making a racket are running like silk. NB: this method is not VW certified! But works.
> Just be careful that you dont strip the CV bolts when removing and have the right tool for the job. Replace the bolts if necessary. They are messy things so disposable gloves are handy. Clean the CV joint with degreaser, etc. as good as possible, plenty of rags , paper towels, etc. Get some quality CV grease for the inner bearings and I believe as above Pack an extra amount in the joint, it cant hurt.
> Good luck. Hope my advice helps
> Dave
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Nicholls" <richardnicholls74@> wrote:
> >
> > Good morning everyone noticed recently rear cv boot has perished and as a result has rust proofed a fair area!!! anyhow my question to the group, what is the procedure for boot replacement, ie rear transmission side? Any Tips would be most appreciated.
> > Regards Richard.
> >
>