G'day Rowan
After towing a trailer I gave up on the idea. A syncro towing a trailer has limitations off-road, is a pain in town, chews fuel, drives like a Commer van, and rattles more than just the cutlery.
Trailers leak dust like a sieve and have to be set up every time you want to stop for a cuppa.
They reduce your ability to avoid an accident.
Hire one for a weekend, and you'll see what I mean.
Try it in the rain, fold it up when it is still wet, and see if it keeps you dry on the second night.
How safe does the missus feel in a tent-trailer when the yowies are howling?
That's why some genius invented the kombi camper, but standard designs are not practical for extended trips, as they have limited storage space.
Rock-and-roll beds mean that the luggage has to be shifted to make up the bed.
I bypassed the problem by making a folding bed platform behind the rear seat of my caravelle.
It can be easily removed, but most of the time I leave it in place because it is so unobtrusive.
A lot of gear can be stored under the bed, over the engine, where it is easy to get at, at a comfortable height.
It also cuts down engine noise.
Try this: Fold down the back seat and throw some plastic under-bed storage crates into the luggage compartment. Chuck a piece of plywood and a mattress on top, and you have a bed.
That's how I started. Later I made a simple timber framework that can be installed or removed in less than five minutes, with six bolts and captive nuts, and weighs less than ten kilos.
The plywood base is level with the folded seat. This provides space for three "under-bed storage crates" on top of the engine hatch. They can be accessed by opening the tailgate and rolling them out like drawers, or from inside the van by lifting a trapdoor.
The plywood base slides out to become a table that can be used while standing under the shelter of the tailgate, making a handy food-preparation area and a place to sit the gas stove.
The plywood slides out in seconds to give access to the engine.
A piece of angle iron attached to the rear of the platform gives rigidity, and prevents the mattress sliding back.
Forward of the engine hatch a lateral bulkhead supports the bed-base and makes a wide, narrow compartment across the van behind the back seat. This is a perfect size to accept the hi-lift jack, long-handled shovel, snatch straps, chain saw and recovery equipment, all out of sight under the bed.
On each side of the bed [in the luggage compartment] there is room for bulky items like the folding picnic table and chairs on one side, and two jerry cans on the other, and a heap of other stuff, lashed securely in place to the seat-belt bars. Judicious use of pillows, sleeping bags and other soft stuff jammed into the gaps mean there are no rattles even over the worst roads. It would probably be possible to fit a spare wheel in there as well. None of this stuff needs to be unpacked to use the bed.
A cargo-barrier replaces the head-rests on the rear seat, adjustable for height, to allow luggage to be packed roof-high.
This also supports the front half of the bed when the seat is folded forward.
The front half of the bed base comprises two pieces of hinged plywood that fold back over the back half when not required.
The headrest/cargo barrier is adjustable for height so that the bed can be used even with the centre seat in place [although only 5'10" long - long legs to poke out beside the two-seater centre seat].
[The two-seater centre seat makes entry and exit from the bed easy, although it would still be possible with a three-seater for nimble folk, via the folding squab].
Without the centre seat there are no length limitations.
To make up the bed, just fold down the seat, unfold the plywood by pulling the handle towards you, and unfold the mattress.
If the bed is to remain down in transit, I lash it down.
The 100mm foam mattress was cut in half and re-inserted into the zippered cotton cover so that it folds back on itself when not in use. [One half slightly larger than the other to allow for the rake of the seat-back. Don't get pedantic on me here lads].
I used a double mattress, but a queen-size will fit.
Plenty of gear can be stowed on top of the mattress when travelling, although 'jail bars' are useful to protect the back window.
A roof-locker over the luggage compartment is a great place to store light-weight bedding and fit a couple of stereo speakers, and makes use of otherwise wasted space.
The bed can carry long or bulky loads. The centre seat, if fitted, stops the load sliding forward.
This gives you a truly versatile vehicle; either an approved 7 seater, a five seater with heaps of floor space, a load-carrier, and a basic camper ready for a trip at a a moment's notice.
All for a couple of hundred bucks.
All you need to do is fit an awning, a couple of interior lights, a second battery and a power outlet for the portable fridge.
For longer trips, fit removable furniture modules in the centre of the van, complete with table, fridge, sink, TV, and whatever takes your fancy.
As long as you don't muck about with 240v. wiring or LPG fittings, there is no need to invoke the wrath of the authorities or the insurance company.
As for rattling cutlery - store it in a tool roll, and wrap the crockery in a tea towel. Bung it in a plastic crate underneath the mattress and you won't hear a squeak, and it will be easy to get at when you open the tailgate to boil the billy.
Stay away from pop-tops if you don't need the extra beds upstairs. They are top-heavy, often rattle, reduce structural integrity, and mean you can't use a full-length roof rack.
Food for thought. Plans and photos if you want them.
Cheers,
The other Roger [Beetle].