Just a brief update. This project has been pushed back with other distractions and changed tact a few times.
Have started work on re-building a long block. Done cams/heads etc. But stuck on removing old head studs!! What a pian. Have parted this project for the moment.
Finally got a spare motor (tanks Grant!!), looks very tired, but with a tidy up, re-shim the flywheel, replace some seals/fuel lines ETC am hoping it will keep the van on the road while I re-build my motor.
Also had the opportunity to grab another motor (2WD). Apparently rebuilt not long before it was parked, and checks out as nice and tight, but has been sitting for a long time and corrosion has gotten into a lot of parts. So will be a bigger job to make it ready for use, but so far seems to be a great base.
Anyway, hope to get a little time to spend on the Syncro so I can get driving again!
And a question on engine parts. Does anyone know when VW stopped making heads and water pumps?? The 2WD motor has VW heads and a VW/Audi water pump. I’ve not seen these before and thought they mostly would have disappeared by now!! Very surprised to see them on an engine.
Maybe they were old stock somewhere when the engine was rebuilt.
And a stragne one, the alternator at first i thought was different, but it looks like it was assembled with the connection points at the bottom (close to the engine), not at the top which seems to be normal.
I have seen an engine that was rebuilt and the heads were re-used as they were serviceable and not cracked, yet every other engine I have owned has AMC heads - my current 2wd auto has been rebuilt 75,000kms prior to my ownership and it received new heads and water pump.
Water pumps are a service item and need regular replacement. Highly unlikely to find an original one of those on a currently running engine.
hey Scott, is that on facbook? And is that Ben that has (had??) a syncro?
If you could make contact for me, I’d certainly be keen. I need to buy a set of heads for my engine.
I have picked up a few old heads now. Interesting to note one pair show cracks in a crack test (colour die), but passed a pressure test.
So they are cracked, but not yet failed.
As most would know the cost to repair is likely be more than the cost of new heads. As they are all prone to cracking, just how long will they last.
Thanks Scott, really appreciate it. Gave him a call, and he still has them!
No that I think NOS are any better than AMC, just nice for them to be VW heads
I was lucky enough when re-building by T2 engine to find NOS heads for it! Actually most of that build was NOS parts, K&S pistons, oil pump, fuel pump, cam
thanks again for the heads up Scott, Vic is busy with a move at the moment, but finally managed to get the heads. A bit expensive, and will need a good tidy up before use, but a good start for a rebuild.
Have not really done much else, but will get there!
Richard, talking about heads, I have a pair of empty VW heads from a past syncro owner. Afraid I don’t know their history … should have asked at the time. To look at them I cannot discern any cracking or particular imperfect surfaces, just wondering are they worth keeping for a rainy day or off to the scrapper. In the past there has been negative talk about OEM VW heads not being as good as aftermarket. Hmmmmm, don’t know really. How do you tell?
Definitely worth keeping for a rainy day. From the little bit I’ve had to do with heads so far I think OEM or AMC are all of dubious quality. From what I have read over the years 200k km is achievable with OEM heads, and plenty of people achieved this. AMC heads seem to have a similar life span. Not sure if any vans get much past this without issues.
I don’t have enough experience to say if one is better than the other.
Of the two vans I have, both had the original heads replaced before 200k km. My brother also had two low km well maintained T3’s, both had head issues before 200k km on original heads.
There are also multiple ways they can fail, not just cracks in the head, and in general if you have your engine that far apart, it makes sense to replace the heads regardless of which issue caused it to fail
The output from an MV engine is low, it’s not a highly stressed engine, and aluminium heads should last longer than 200k km.
As for testing, what I have done is twofold. Die penetrant crack test, and a pressure test. All heads I’ve tested have cracks between the valve seats. One set I had pressure tested, it did not leak.
This is not a full story though. Crack testing will confirm if there is a crack there, pressure testing will let you know if it currently leaks. Only knowing their history (km, how it’s been driven, state of tune of the engine) will give you some idea how much life is left in the heads.
I’ve not done this, but you can also get ultrasonic testing which might be able to see how deep the crack is.
Given labour costs today, it is far cheaper to replace rather than repair.
Hi Richard,
Hhhmmmmm … thanks for your very interesting post.
So as I read you, on balance and economically, best practice would be don’t risk it, send used heads off to the scrapper, always buy new heads.
I have zero experience with heads/engine rebuilds. My syncro motor is at 240 thousand Ks, no sign of head leaks nor exhaust gas in the coolant system. Touch wood?
Just for the hell of it, here’s pics of one of the heads, take a look and see what you think. Only issue I can visually see is the very lightest of etching into the seal area at the left end. No similar etching in the other head.
So from an untrained eye, they look ok, still wondering why the previous owner had cause to replace them. Will never know the answer.
.
I would be hanging onto them Ken, I agree they do not show any visible signs of cracking. I do have the die crack testing gear at work, but not much help to you I guess. The etching you mention looks to be in the inside edge of the seal, so would not affect the seal doing its job.
The corrosion on the outside does not look great, particularly on the valve springs. This can lead to them cracking eventually. The coolant pipe connection also looks corroded. They may have had non OEM coolant at some stage.
I think they are worth hanging onto, if you ever crack a head, these will get your van running again if you did not want to do a more extensive rebuild.
It you were doing a full rebuild on an engine though, I would use new heads.
As you said, will never know why they were removed, but if a head stud let go, or the gasket failed you would need to remove the heads, and mostly likely would just put new on rather than re-build.
The pics on the Samba, hard to tell, but I’d guess they have cracks.
Thanks Richard and Scott for both encouraging replies … looks like they are keepers then eh.
Confirm the left hand end face “etching” does in no way present as “pitting”.
The valves and springs as shown present as they did when I first came into ownership quite a few years ago, since then have been packaged and stored away dry ever since. Ta guys and I value your inputs.
As I’ve found playing with a few old heads now, wear in the valve guides and on the valve seats are also good indicators of condition. Neither a big issue as usable spares, but things to re-work if you are planning for them to be in service long term.
The indicators for this are all the same as T2 (1.8 & 2L) heads which I have more experience with.
Some rust preventing spray/oil is worthwhile before packing them away again.
