Hi, my problem: 1990 syncro 2.1 petrol. it was running and just stopped.
so far I have replaced coil and the distributor( cheaper than a new Hall sensor) sent the ECU to be checked, all good. I feel the only thing left is the crank sensor, if it has one or is that the hall sensors job?? I have fuel to the injectors. Anyway Im at the end of my tether. any suggestions. thoughts , ideas before i get it towed to a mechanic. aslo any recommendations for mechanic who knows T3’s in Tasmania,.
Hi Michael.
Welcome to the forum.
You could try Andrew Robinson Automotive in Derwent Park.
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So you have no spark but you have fuel…have you tried your ignition switch?
You can hot wire it to test that theory.
Thanks Scott, haven’t checked ignition switch. thought if it cranks over it would be ok. ‘hot wire it’?? keen to be educated on how to .
Any luck with Andrew Robinson?
just trying to exhaust all my options before trying Andrew. bit out of the way, I live near Launceston.
If you get stuck, there’s Peter Murfett in Ulverstone.
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Hi Micheal,
This is what I found on the Samba.com:
Since you car cranks you can add to your confidence level by running a jumper from the coil positive (black wire) to the terminal on the rear of the alternator, then crank it. It should start. If it does, I would just replace the switch. Be careful to connect your jumper wire to the coil first, then the alternator. That will avoid a spark at the coil which if it makes it to the coil negative (green wire) can theoretically damage the ignition computer.
As for actually testing the ignition switch, you need a test light or a VOM. I recommend a test light (get a good one) as a very useful addition to your tool kit. If you look at the back of the ignition switch (looking up the by the steering column) you should see 3 rather large wires. There may be more wire, but the larger ones are what you’re interested in.
Assuming your battery is charge and you test light/VOM is properly grounded, the large red wire short have power with the ignition switch off. Red wires on VWs (original wiring) are always unswitched power from the battery.
Turn the key to the ‘on’ position and check the black wire. It should now have power. Black wires on VWs are always ‘hot’ when the key is on. This is the circuit that powers the ecu, coil, fuel pump relay, etc. If this doesn’t light up then ‘wiggle’ it and see if if does. This is the wire that I suspect is casing your problem.
With the van in neutral and the the switch in the crank position the red wire with the black trace (I’m working from memory here so you might double check the wiring diagram) should light up. Since you van cranks, we know that this works. Perform this test again while checking the black wire. If the black wire looses power while cranking then this helps verify the faulty switch. It may dim a bit, but it should still light up in order to allow the coil to fire.
wow. Thanks Scott for taking the time to provide this info. the car is at my sons. hopefully I can get to it soon to try your Very thorough recommendations. I will report the outcomes when completed… thankyou…fingers crossed
Had a similar problem last year & found that one cable within the wiring loom from the hall sensor had broken in a position approximately 20mm from the distributor. Probably a good idea to check continuity of the wires within this loom. Good luck.
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Thanks Matt, I now have a few things to check/confirm. Just need to find the time!! work gets in the way of a lot of things.