alloy drop sides

1
hi guys n gals, are there any single cab or double cab syncros in Oz wearing the alloy sides / gates, also any with canopys?

see pic
[IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/kombijon/mine.jpg%5b/IMG]
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/kombijon/mine.jpg

cheers jon in WA OZ
2

Jon,

 

Some information on the vehicle would be of interest.  Presumably this is yours?  Where did the sides and canopy come from?  Presumably aftermarket?

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of kombijon
Sent: 18 August 2009 21:53
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

hi guys n gals, are there any single cab or double cab syncros in Oz wearing the alloy sides / gates, also any with canopys?

see pic
[IMG]http://i237. photobucket. com/albums/ ff192/kombijon/ mine.jpg[/IMG]
http://i237. photobucket. com/albums/ ff192/kombijon/ mine.jpg

cheers jon in WA OZ

3
Hi Jon

Some Tristars were originally depicted with alloy sides, however, the only Tristar Syncro in Australia has standard dropsides. That said, Hart has found some of the last alloy dropsides in Europe and is sending them out to Australia for fitting (during the resto I assume).

Nice looking DOKA - can you tell us a bit more about it - year built, Deluxe/Non-Deluxe. I notice you have Caravelle style mirrors on it

Mark.

On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 9:53 PM, kombijon <kombijon@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

hi guys n gals, are there any single cab or double cab syncros in Oz wearing the alloy sides / gates, also any with canopys?

see pic
[IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/kombijon/mine.jpg[/IMG]
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/kombijon/mine.jpg

cheers jon in WA OZ


4
Les,

That picture looks to be from Patrik's website in Sweden. From what I can see in the photo, this Doka has aftermarket  copies of the Tristar alloy gates. The factory gates have latches similar to the steel gates except the sides are finished in black instead of cadmium plated. I have a set of the Tristar gates which will be installed on my 89 Syncro 16 Doka. The a Swedish 'Vindic' brand canopy. It attaches next to the cab via a roll bar with steel grid to protect the back window from shifting cargo. The rear corners are supported by two steel stanchions. This permits all three sides of the canopy to open. Have one in front of my house now also awaiting installation.


Regards,
BenT

Sent from my mobile device

On Aug 18, 2009, at 4:09 PM, "Les_Harris" <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Jon,

 

Some information on the vehicle would be of interest.  Presumably this is yours?  Where did the sides and canopy come from?  Presumably aftermarket?

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of kombijon
Sent: 18 August 2009 21:53
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

hi guys n gals, are there any single cab or double cab syncros in Oz wearing the alloy sides / gates, also any with canopys?

see pic
[IMG]http://i237. photobucket. com/albums/ ff192/kombijon/ mine.jpg[/IMG]
http://i237. photobucket. com/albums/ ff192/kombijon/ mine.jpg

cheers jon in WA OZ

5

Ben,

 

That sheds some light on it.  This suggests that there was a fair aftermarket in Europe .

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of BenT Syncro
Sent: 19 August 2009 09:54
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

Les,

 

That picture looks to be from Patrik's website in Sweden . From what I can see in the photo, this Doka has aftermarket  copies of the Tristar alloy gates. The factory gates have latches similar to the steel gates except the sides are finished in black instead of cadmium plated. I have a set of the Tristar gates which will be installed on my 89 Syncro 16 Doka. The a Swedish 'Vindic' brand canopy. It attaches next to the cab via a roll bar with steel grid to protect the back window from shifting cargo. The rear corners are supported by two steel stanchions. This permits all three sides of the canopy to open. Have one in front of my house now also awaiting installation.

 

 

Regards,

BenT

Sent from my mobile device


On Aug 18, 2009, at 4:09 PM, "Les_Harris" <leslieharris@ optusnet. com.au> wrote:

Jon,

 

Some information on the vehicle would be of interest.  Presumably this is yours?  Where did the sides and canopy come from?  Presumably aftermarket?

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com ] On Behalf Of kombijon
Sent: 18 August 2009 21:53
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] alloy drop sides

 

 

hi guys n gals, are there any single cab or double cab syncros in Oz wearing the alloy sides / gates, also any with canopys?

see pic
[IMG]http://i237. photobucket. com/albums/ ff192/kombijon/ mine.jpg[/IMG]
http://i237. photobucket. com/albums/ ff192/kombijon/ mine.jpg

cheers jon in WA OZ

6
Hey guys here's the story. 

Took my van to an auto electrics the other day for a $550 starter motor job.  It was so expensive because the old digger didn't know much about the diff lock mechanism being in the way.  Anyway NOW IT WONT WORK!?!?!?. . . Things I've tried:

: Turning slight corners
: waiting for ages
: hopped under and check a few little hoses for suction

I pulled one hose off the star piece which connects to a round rubber piece (which is the suction side) under the middle of the vehicle. there was noise and suction there.

I also hoped under the back and pulled off two small hoses at the bottom of the diff lock mechanism.  The one on the left has suction.  The other doesn't. 

I remember reading somewhere that you can spray some CRC / WD 40 and it will work wonders.  I just cant remember where. 

The auto electrician said that in order to remover the starter they had to pull the diff lock mechanism off the gearbox about an inch to wriggle the starter out.

Thanks for any help guys.  I'm kinda sick of getting mechanics to do work and then just break more stuff.  . . .

Find local businesses and services in your area with Yahoo!7 Local. Get started.
7

Bartley,

 

This can be a real can of worms if the workshop removed and replaced the diff lock actuator. 

 

First – hose colours:

  • the blue hose goes to the outside of the actuator, which is the black side
  • the white hose goes to the inside of the actuator, which is blue.

 

Suction to the outside is disengaging the diff lock, so that is correct.

 

If the actuator has been removed and replaced by someone who has no knowledge of how it goes together, there can be several problems.  The main one is that the roll pin has not engaged with the groove in the actuator rod.  A far worse possibility is that the end of the actuator rod has been snapped off.  It happens.  Some clumsy workshop did it to my diff lock before I bought it.

 

The starting point is to remove the actuator and inspect everything.  If it comes out without the roll pin being (very carefully!) driven out, it might just be a case of the roll pin not engaging.

 

Have a look at that and get back to me.

 

Les

 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bartley Olsen
Sent: 19 August 2009 14:18
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES) [2 Attachments]

 

 

Hey guys here's the story. 

Took my van to an auto electrics the other day for a $550 starter motor job.  It was so expensive because the old digger didn't know much about the diff lock mechanism being in the way.  Anyway NOW IT WONT WORK!?!?!?. . . Things I've tried:

: Turning slight corners
: waiting for ages
: hopped under and check a few little hoses for suction

I pulled one hose off the star piece which connects to a round rubber piece (which is the suction side) under the middle of the vehicle. there was noise and suction there.

I also hoped under the back and pulled off two small hoses at the bottom of the diff lock mechanism.  The one on the left has suction.  The other doesn't. 

I remember reading somewhere that you can spray some CRC / WD 40 and it will work wonders.  I just cant remember where. 

The auto electrician said that in order to remover the starter they had to pull the diff lock mechanism off the gearbox about an inch to wriggle the starter out.

Thanks for any help guys.  I'm kinda sick of getting mechanics to do work and then just break more stuff.  . . .

 

Find local businesses and services in your area with Yahoo!7 Local. Get started.

8
Thanks Les.  Should i undo the allen key bolts that hold the CV shaft thing on? . . .make it easier?

From: Les_Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 19 August, 2009 3:28:40 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES)

 

Bartley,

 

This can be a real can of worms if the workshop removed and replaced the diff lock actuator. 

 

First – hose colours:

  • the blue hose goes to the outside of the actuator, which is the black side
  • the white hose goes to the inside of the actuator, which is blue.

 

Suction to the outside is disengaging the diff lock, so that is correct.

 

If the actuator has been removed and replaced by someone who has no knowledge of how it goes together, there can be several problems.  The main one is that the roll pin has not engaged with the groove in the actuator rod.  A far worse possibility is that the end of the actuator rod has been snapped off.  It happens.  Some clumsy workshop did it to my diff lock before I bought it.

 

The starting point is to remove the actuator and inspect everything.  If it comes out without the roll pin being (very carefully!) driven out, it might just be a case of the roll pin not engaging.

 

Have a look at that and get back to me.

 

Les

 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Bartley Olsen
Sent: 19 August 2009 14:18
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES) [2 Attachments]

 

 

Hey guys here's the story. 

Took my van to an auto electrics the other day for a $550 starter motor job.  It was so expensive because the old digger didn't know much about the diff lock mechanism being in the way.  Anyway NOW IT WONT WORK!?!?!?. . . Things I've tried:

: Turning slight corners
: waiting for ages
: hopped under and check a few little hoses for suction

I pulled one hose off the star piece which connects to a round rubber piece (which is the suction side) under the middle of the vehicle. there was noise and suction there.

I also hoped under the back and pulled off two small hoses at the bottom of the diff lock mechanism.  The one on the left has suction.  The other doesn't. 

I remember reading somewhere that you can spray some CRC / WD 40 and it will work wonders.  I just cant remember where. 

The auto electrician said that in order to remover the starter they had to pull the diff lock mechanism off the gearbox about an inch to wriggle the starter out.

Thanks for any help guys.  I'm kinda sick of getting mechanics to do work and then just break more stuff.  . . .

 

Find local businesses and services in your area with Yahoo!7 Local. Get started.


Find local businesses and services in your area with Yahoo!7 Local. Get started.
9

I just had my starter motor replaced and they did not have to remove the diff lock. One important point was that the 2 litre air cooled (T2) starter fits the 2.1 waterboxer. It is cheaper and more reliable and easier to get hold of. Cost of new unit $200. Cost of fitting $160.

 

Doone Wyborn, Brisbane

 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les_Harris
Sent: Wednesday, 19 August 2009 3:29 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES)

 

 

Bartley,

 

This can be a real can of worms if the workshop removed and replaced the diff lock actuator. 

 

First – hose colours:

  • the blue hose goes to the outside of the actuator, which is the black side
  • the white hose goes to the inside of the actuator, which is blue.

 

Suction to the outside is disengaging the diff lock, so that is correct.

 

If the actuator has been removed and replaced by someone who has no knowledge of how it goes together, there can be several problems.  The main one is that the roll pin has not engaged with the groove in the actuator rod.  A far worse possibility is that the end of the actuator rod has been snapped off.  It happens.  Some clumsy workshop did it to my diff lock before I bought it.

 

The starting point is to remove the actuator and inspect everything.  If it comes out without the roll pin being (very carefully!) driven out, it might just be a case of the roll pin not engaging.

 

Have a look at that and get back to me.

 

Les

 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bartley Olsen
Sent: 19 August 2009 14:18
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES) [2 Attachments]

 

 

Hey guys here's the story. 

Took my van to an auto electrics the other day for a $550 starter motor job.  It was so expensive because the old digger didn't know much about the diff lock mechanism being in the way.  Anyway NOW IT WONT WORK!?!?!?. . . Things I've tried:

: Turning slight corners
: waiting for ages
: hopped under and check a few little hoses for suction

I pulled one hose off the star piece which connects to a round rubber piece (which is the suction side) under the middle of the vehicle. there was noise and suction there.

I also hoped under the back and pulled off two small hoses at the bottom of the diff lock mechanism.  The one on the left has suction.  The other doesn't. 

I remember reading somewhere that you can spray some CRC / WD 40 and it will work wonders.  I just cant remember where. 

The auto electrician said that in order to remover the starter they had to pull the diff lock mechanism off the gearbox about an inch to wriggle the starter out.

Thanks for any help guys.  I'm kinda sick of getting mechanics to do work and then just break more stuff.  . . .

 

Find local businesses and services in your area with Yahoo!7 Local. Get started.


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10

Bartley,

 

The vacuum actuator is removed and fitted with the mounting bracket in place.

 

Attached is a picture of the diff lock system.  Might make it a bit easier to follow.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bartley Olsen
Sent: 19 August 2009 16:16
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES)

 

 

Thanks Les.  Should i undo the allen key bolts that hold the CV shaft thing on? . . .make it easier?

 

 

 

11

Hi Kombijon,

Yes, I bought a set of alloy dropsides, they are in transit and should arrive in SYD in September, I believe that they are VW parts{fingers crossed]

And they are to go on my DOKA Tristar   Hartmut Kiehn

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BenT Syncro
Sent: Wednesday, 19 August 2009 9:54 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

Les,

 

That picture looks to be from Patrik's website in Sweden. From what I can see in the photo, this Doka has aftermarket  copies of the Tristar alloy gates. The factory gates have latches similar to the steel gates except the sides are finished in black instead of cadmium plated. I have a set of the Tristar gates which will be installed on my 89 Syncro 16 Doka. The a Swedish 'Vindic' brand canopy. It attaches next to the cab via a roll bar with steel grid to protect the back window from shifting cargo. The rear corners are supported by two steel stanchions. This permits all three sides of the canopy to open. Have one in front of my house now also awaiting installation.

 

 

Regards,

BenT

Sent from my mobile device


On Aug 18, 2009, at 4:09 PM, "Les_Harris" <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Jon,

 

Some information on the vehicle would be of interest.  Presumably this is yours?  Where did the sides and canopy come from?  Presumably aftermarket?

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kombijon
Sent: 18 August 2009 21:53
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

hi guys n gals, are there any single cab or double cab syncros in Oz wearing the alloy sides / gates, also any with canopys?

see pic
[IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/kombijon/mine.jpg[/IMG]
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/kombijon/mine.jpg

cheers jon in WA OZ

12
hi guys
les, this is not my truck but sooooo close i thought it was, but the sides and canopy  are identical to mine.
harmut, my doka is due in sept, your sides arnt already fitted to a doka on its way over are they? did the seller say you have to remove them? hmmm 2 sets in one month!!!
 
my doka was owned and used wholey and soley by the swedish forestry commission, so i'm guessing the sides and back were either factory fitted or factory reccomended (fitted by a local dealer similar to roobars over here?)
i'm the third owner of my doka, the first being the swedish guys, the second being the uk agent who found the doka for me and me of course!, the dokas lived in more countrys than had owners as well!

---

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13

Hi Jon, no my drop sides are not fitted  to anything, they (hopefully) arrive in one neat little,long parcel, they come from a very friendly Belgian VW dealer/friend who had 3 sets, I bought the last set. Now, you bought your Syncro in Sweden, was the vehicle still a RH drive. I can’t remember what year they switched to RHD.....        Hartmut

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jon hornby
Sent: Wednesday, 19 August 2009 7:20 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

hi guys

les, this is not my truck but sooooo close i thought it was, but the sides and canopy  are identical to mine.

harmut, my doka is due in sept, your sides arnt already fitted to a doka on its way over are they? did the seller say you have to remove them? hmmm 2 sets in one month!!!

 

my doka was owned and used wholey and soley by the swedish forestry commission, so i'm guessing the sides and back were either factory fitted or factory reccomended (fitted by a local dealer similar to roobars over here?)

i'm the third owner of my doka, the first being the swedish guys, the second being the uk agent who found the doka for me and me of course!, the dokas lived in more countrys than had owners as well!

---

 

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14

Hartmut,

 

Is that Mike Plompen?

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Hartmut Kiehn
Sent: 19 August 2009 20:50
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

Hi Jon, no my drop sides are not fitted  to anything, they (hopefully) arrive in one neat little,long parcel, they come from a very friendly Belgian VW dealer/friend who had 3 sets, I bought the last set. Now, you bought your Syncro in Sweden , was the vehicle still a RH drive. I can’t remember what year they switched to RHD.....        Hartmut

 

15

Les, a big YES it’s him, a gem, a real darling, so incredibly helpful.

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les_Harris
Sent: Wednesday, 19 August 2009 8:57 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

Hartmut,

 

Is that Mike Plompen?

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Hartmut Kiehn
Sent: 19 August 2009 20:50
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] alloy drop sides

 

 

Hi Jon, no my drop sides are not fitted  to anything, they (hopefully) arrive in one neat little,long parcel, they come from a very friendly Belgian VW dealer/friend who had 3 sets, I bought the last set. Now, you bought your Syncro in Sweden, was the vehicle still a RH drive. I can’t remember what year they switched to RHD.....        Hartmut

 

16
http://busgoons.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=27

Hey les

This link might help (me) and others with removal of the Diff lock mechanism.  I'm going to have a go at this tomorrow.  Looks as though they may have screwd the pin that has to be knocked out before removal. .

Bart

From: Les_Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 19 August, 2009 4:52:53 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES) [1 Attachment]

 

Bartley,

 

The vacuum actuator is removed and fitted with the mounting bracket in place.

 

Attached is a picture of the diff lock system.  Might make it a bit easier to follow.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Bartley Olsen
Sent: 19 August 2009 16:16
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES)

 

 

Thanks Les..  Should i undo the allen key bolts that hold the CV shaft thing on? . . .make it easier?

 

 

 


Find local businesses and services in your area with Yahoo!7 Local. Get started.
17

Bartley,

 

The pictures are very good but the lack of cleaning the worksite before taking it apart is just incomprehensible.  Please don’t do that.  It doesn’t take long to brush it all clean with petrol or similar.

 

Les 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bartley Olsen
Sent: 19 August 2009 21:11
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Wont engage!! any tricks (PICTURES)

 

 

http://busgoons. com/index. php?option= com_content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=27

Hey les

This link might help (me) and others with removal of the Diff lock mechanism.  I'm going to have a go at this tomorrow.  Looks as though they may have screwd the pin that has to be knocked out before removal. .

Bart

 

 __

18
It is worth noting that the reason there were so many well-appointed
Dokas in Sweden is because the taxes were less expensive compared to
'utility vehicles'. This is very similar to laws we have I'm
California. For example, on my 3 Dokas, one cost half as much to
register per year. The difference? I have a canopy on one and was able
to register it as a "camper". Any other truck requires commercial
registration and pay weight fees.


Cheers,

Sent from my martinPhone ;)
>
19
It is the same in Australia.

A camper or bus is much cheaper to register than a Doka, SC or Kombi.

Cheers,

Phill

Not sent from my phone ;)


> BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> It is worth noting that the reason there were so many well-appointed
> Dokas in Sweden is because the taxes were less expensive compared to
> 'utility vehicles'. This is very similar to laws we have I'm
> California. For example, on my 3 Dokas, one cost half as much to
> register per year. The difference? I have a canopy on one and was able
> to register it as a "camper". Any other truck requires commercial
> registration and pay weight fees.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Sent from my martinPhone ;)
> >
20
fees for regestering a camper, doka, ute are all the same across the board here in west aus, i cannt say about the east side tho, but i think it will be the same!

--- On Thu, 20/8/09, plander@optusnet.com.au <plander@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

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