Chosen engine oil for 2.1 WBX motor

1
Gday all,
I'm wondering whether there is some commonality of views amongst
members as to which engine oil is preferred in the 2.1 WBX.

Service people for the previous owner of my Syncro were using Mobil S
Synth 10W-40 for about 5 years.

In the other cars in my family, I've been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-
40, so I'm wondering if it would help or hinder if I swapped to
Magnatec for commonality. Magnatec is straight mineral oil, whereas the
Mobil S Synth 10W-40 is a mineral/synthetic mix.

Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.

Ken
2
I have tried various oils in my syncro over the last 220,000 K's and keep going back to
Castrol GTX2.The viscosity suits our climate and its characteristics seem to be quite stable
over the lifetime of the oil. I found the fully synthetic Mobil to be too expensive while the
one you mentioned Mobil S changed viscosity over time and kept tripping the low oil
pressure switch on very hot days after big hill climbs, eg 35deg. days and 10 mins
constantly in 3rd gear. Have done 310,000 km on the same motor with the last 220,000
being with Castrol GTX2 99% of the time.

-- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Ken" <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
> Gday all,
> I'm wondering whether there is some commonality of views amongst
> members as to which engine oil is preferred in the 2.1 WBX.
>
> Service people for the previous owner of my Syncro were using Mobil S
> Synth 10W-40 for about 5 years.
>
> In the other cars in my family, I've been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-
> 40, so I'm wondering if it would help or hinder if I swapped to
> Magnatec for commonality. Magnatec is straight mineral oil, whereas the
> Mobil S Synth 10W-40 is a mineral/synthetic mix.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
3
For what its worth my specialist VW/Subaru mechanic reckons they have quite a few owners complaining about noisy tappets which they diagnose as too heavy an oil causing the hydraulic valve lifters to be slow in pumping up. They fix them by replacing with lower viscosity oil. They put in a 10-30 grade non synthetic German brand for my trip to WA . They also justified the low viscosity by it being winter. Do I understand correctly that multigrade oil basically is the viscosity of the lower level with additives to allow it to still perform like an oil at the heavier level of its range. Car certainly ran well but have no idea of course about wear. Topped up with about half a litre after about 6000Km and changed oil i a little later than I would have liked on return after a total of 12000Kms.My 2.1 WBX motor has now done 165000Kms. I previously ran a Peugeot 505 Wagon on GTX2 and sold it  with the original untouched motor still running well  at 380,000Kms which seems to bear out Nick's experience. I think if I had one of the new T5 diesels I might think differently but our engines are not of that generation.
Cheers
Roger

nickbellau <nick.bellgrove@dmit.sa.edu.au> wrote:
I have tried various oils in my syncro over the last 220,000 K's and keep going back to
Castrol GTX2.The viscosity suits our climate and its characteristics seem to be quite stable
over the lifetime of the oil. I found the fully synthetic Mobil to be too expensive while the
one you mentioned Mobil S changed viscosity over time and kept tripping the low oil
pressure switch on very hot days after big hill climbs, eg 35deg. days and 10 mins
constantly in 3rd gear. Have done 310,000 km on the same motor with the last 220,000
being with Castrol GTX2 99% of the time.

-- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, "Ken" <unclekenz@. ..> wrote:
>
> Gday all,
> I'm wondering whether there is some commonality of views amongst
> members as to which engine oil is preferred in the 2.1 WBX.
>
> Service people for the previous owner of my Syncro were using Mobil S
> Synth 10W-40 for about 5 years.
>
> In the other cars in my family, I've been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-
> 40, so I'm wondering if it would help or hinder if I swapped to
> Magnatec for commonality. Magnatec is straight mineral oil, whereas the
> Mobil S Synth 10W-40 is a mineral/synthetic mix.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.
>
> Ken
>


Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

4
Gday Nick and ALL,

Thanks a lot for your input, good points. Some comments to add ...

I see in the owners Syncro handbook, VW indicates for a climate range of
-10 to +30 degrees centigrade, an oil of either 20W-40 or 20W-50. GTX2
is 20W-50 so Nick you are spot on there, whereas I referred below to
10W-40 oils which, if anything then, are more likely less ideal for
usual summer/winter Australian temperatures for this motor.

Also, selecting a thin oil rated 10 might be good for circulating oil
quickly at cold startup but in a motor designed and built 15-20 years
ago and with 100-300 thousand klms up, there's a good chance that motor
will burn oil excessively and it'll show up at the exhaust. Again, on
balance, your 20 grade oil makes more sense.

Reading around online, I get the general impression that mineral oils
deal with heat better than synthetic, both in climatic conditions and
the heat of the oil in the motor. And seeing as the 2.1 WBX motor isn't
exactly the latest technology nor turbo charged, seems to me on balance,
synthetic is not the right oil here. And certainly if the Syncro is
going on outback safari, the 50 rated oil, as you stated, is again
correct for this motor.

So now I ask, which 20W-50 mineral oil gets the guernsey?

Guess it could come down to a mineral type oil that has a preferred mix
of added "goodies" that boost either/and/or smoothness, contamination,
heat, flow, seal, lubrication etc. handling best. Methinks the gallery
is still awaiting the jury's (syncro members?) verdict. Penny for your
thoughts please anyone.

Coincidently, a motor mechanic who rebuilds motors said to me just the
other day, the oil he uses in rebuilds and in his own cars for years is
Shell Helix Super 20W-50 (mineral). Again a consistency with your oil
type Nick.

Lastly, I'm also getting the general impression that to enhance
longevity of the motor between rebuilds, changing engine oil at maximum
5000klm intervals and oil filter at 10000klm intervals is the way to go.
Yes/no?

Anyone else like to add their tuppence worth to Nicks and mine would be
very much welcomed. TIA all. Cheers.

Ken






--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "nickbellau"
<nick.bellgrove@...> wrote:
>
> I have tried various oils in my syncro over the last 220,000 K's and
keep going back to
> Castrol GTX2.The viscosity suits our climate and its characteristics
seem to be quite stable
> over the lifetime of the oil. I found the fully synthetic Mobil to be
too expensive while the
> one you mentioned Mobil S changed viscosity over time and kept
tripping the low oil
> pressure switch on very hot days after big hill climbs, eg 35deg. days
and 10 mins
> constantly in 3rd gear. Have done 310,000 km on the same motor with
the last 220,000
> being with Castrol GTX2 99% of the time.
>
> -- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Ken" unclekenz@ wrote:
> >
> > Gday all,
> > I'm wondering whether there is some commonality of views amongst
> > members as to which engine oil is preferred in the 2.1 WBX.
> >
> > Service people for the previous owner of my Syncro were using Mobil
S
> > Synth 10W-40 for about 5 years.
> >
> > In the other cars in my family, I've been using Castrol Magnatec
10W-
> > 40, so I'm wondering if it would help or hinder if I swapped to
> > Magnatec for commonality. Magnatec is straight mineral oil, whereas
the
> > Mobil S Synth 10W-40 is a mineral/synthetic mix.
> >
> > Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.
> >
> > Ken
> >
>
5
Gday Roger and ALL,

Thanks Roger, another great contribution to this topic.

Noisy tappets eh. Yes in my case though when I start it up after its
been parked in the garage for up to say a week without use, I experience
what seems to be, as you say, noisy tappets. I raised this with my VW
mechanic and he seemed pretty non-plussed about it as an issue that
needed addressing in any hurry. I do know after running it for a short
while, the noisy tappets sound disappears. Seems to me its a bit of a
balancing act as to what issue/s is uppermost in your mind as the most
important, sways you toward a particular type of oil.

Again, if you go by the VW handbook, it indicates that a thin 10 grade
oil isn't really warranted until you get below minus 15 degrees
centigrade. Maybe that in the snowfields or Tassie, not sure about WA in
winter. My guess is your mechanic is simply prioritising dealing with
the immediate problem of sticking (noisy) tappets. Similarly Roger, my
Syncro has done 175,000 klms, close to yours. Noisy tappets too at
times, like yours.

Roger, I'm sure there are forum members who can expertly define here
what the various gradings of oil really mean, for example ... 20W-50. As
a laymans general guide, and I stand to be corrected and refined, the 20
refers to the viscosity (thin/thickness/stickyness) of the oil and the
50 refers to the heat handling capabilities of the oil. On top of that,
makers add various expendable "goodies" as well to enhance performance
in various ways. Fact or salesmanship or a bit of both? Probably both.

Another hint given to me recently is ... one should try and select an
oil that is more commonly available throughout ones travels in
Australia. In other words, selecting a you-beaut obscure engine oil in
Sydney, it won't necessarily be available off the shelf near say, the
Tanami desert. Lugging spare you-beaut oil around Australia I guess is
an option. Somewhere to stash it all. Extra weight. More wear and tear.
Oh dear.

Lastly, I haven't investigated this yet but I should soon ... knowing VW
has its own endorsed coolant fluid ie., G12+, does VW also sell its own
endorsed engine oil for normal range of year round Australian
conditions. If so, shouldn't we simply be using it?

Good stuff Roger and thanks again. More thoughts please anyone? TIA.
Cheers.

Ken


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@...>
wrote:
>
> For what its worth my specialist VW/Subaru mechanic reckons they have
quite a few owners complaining about noisy tappets which they diagnose
as too heavy an oil causing the hydraulic valve lifters to be slow in
pumping up. They fix them by replacing with lower viscosity oil. They
put in a 10-30 grade non synthetic German brand for my trip to WA . They
also justified the low viscosity by it being winter. Do I understand
correctly that multigrade oil basically is the viscosity of the lower
level with additives to allow it to still perform like an oil at the
heavier level of its range. Car certainly ran well but have no idea of
course about wear. Topped up with about half a litre after about 6000Km
and changed oil i a little later than I would have liked on return after
a total of 12000Kms.My 2.1 WBX motor has now done 165000Kms. I
previously ran a Peugeot 505 Wagon on GTX2 and sold it with the original
untouched motor still running well at 380,000Kms which seems to bear out
> Nick's experience. I think if I had one of the new T5 diesels I might
think differently but our engines are not of that generation.
> Cheers
> Roger
>
> nickbellau nick.bellgrove@... wrote: I have tried various oils in my
syncro over the last 220,000 K's and keep going back to
> Castrol GTX2.The viscosity suits our climate and its characteristics
seem to be quite stable
> over the lifetime of the oil. I found the fully synthetic Mobil to be
too expensive while the
> one you mentioned Mobil S changed viscosity over time and kept
tripping the low oil
> pressure switch on very hot days after big hill climbs, eg 35deg. days
and 10 mins
> constantly in 3rd gear. Have done 310,000 km on the same motor with
the last 220,000
> being with Castrol GTX2 99% of the time.
>
> -- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Ken" unclekenz@ wrote:
> >
> > Gday all,
> > I'm wondering whether there is some commonality of views amongst
> > members as to which engine oil is preferred in the 2.1 WBX.
> >
> > Service people for the previous owner of my Syncro were using Mobil
S
> > Synth 10W-40 for about 5 years.
> >
> > In the other cars in my family, I've been using Castrol Magnatec
10W-
> > 40, so I'm wondering if it would help or hinder if I swapped to
> > Magnatec for commonality. Magnatec is straight mineral oil, whereas
the
> > Mobil S Synth 10W-40 is a mineral/synthetic mix.
> >
> > Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.
> >
> > Ken
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends
http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
>
6
I fixed the noisy tappet problem by using Mobil 1. I can now leave my syncro for months and there is no noise on start up.

As for changing oil at 5k and filter at 10k. Why? Better off changing the filter at 5k and the oil at 10.

10W-50 oil acts like a 10W oil when cold and like a 50W when hot. Synthetic oils can stand heat much better than mineral oils. Mineral oils break down and go thin when overheated.



> Ken <unclekenz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gday Roger and ALL,
>
> Thanks Roger, another great contribution to this topic.
>
> Noisy tappets eh. Yes in my case though when I start it up after its
> been parked in the garage for up to say a week without use, I experience
> what seems to be, as you say, noisy tappets. I raised this with my VW
> mechanic and he seemed pretty non-plussed about it as an issue that
> needed addressing in any hurry. I do know after running it for a short
> while, the noisy tappets sound disappears. Seems to me its a bit of a
> balancing act as to what issue/s is uppermost in your mind as the most
> important, sways you toward a particular type of oil.
>
> Again, if you go by the VW handbook, it indicates that a thin 10 grade
> oil isn't really warranted until you get below minus 15 degrees
> centigrade. Maybe that in the snowfields or Tassie, not sure about WA in
> winter. My guess is your mechanic is simply prioritising dealing with
> the immediate problem of sticking (noisy) tappets. Similarly Roger, my
> Syncro has done 175,000 klms, close to yours. Noisy tappets too at
> times, like yours.
>
> Roger, I'm sure there are forum members who can expertly define here
> what the various gradings of oil really mean, for example ... 20W-50. As
> a laymans general guide, and I stand to be corrected and refined, the 20
> refers to the viscosity (thin/thickness/stickyness) of the oil and the
> 50 refers to the heat handling capabilities of the oil. On top of that,
> makers add various expendable "goodies" as well to enhance performance
> in various ways. Fact or salesmanship or a bit of both? Probably both.
>
> Another hint given to me recently is ... one should try and select an
> oil that is more commonly available throughout ones travels in
> Australia. In other words, selecting a you-beaut obscure engine oil in
> Sydney, it won't necessarily be available off the shelf near say, the
> Tanami desert. Lugging spare you-beaut oil around Australia I guess is
> an option. Somewhere to stash it all. Extra weight. More wear and tear.
> Oh dear.
>
> Lastly, I haven't investigated this yet but I should soon ... knowing VW
> has its own endorsed coolant fluid ie., G12+, does VW also sell its own
> endorsed engine oil for normal range of year round Australian
> conditions. If so, shouldn't we simply be using it?
>
> Good stuff Roger and thanks again. More thoughts please anyone? TIA.
> Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > For what its worth my specialist VW/Subaru mechanic reckons they have
> quite a few owners complaining about noisy tappets which they diagnose
> as too heavy an oil causing the hydraulic valve lifters to be slow in
> pumping up. They fix them by replacing with lower viscosity oil. They
> put in a 10-30 grade non synthetic German brand for my trip to WA . They
> also justified the low viscosity by it being winter. Do I understand
> correctly that multigrade oil basically is the viscosity of the lower
> level with additives to allow it to still perform like an oil at the
> heavier level of its range. Car certainly ran well but have no idea of
> course about wear. Topped up with about half a litre after about 6000Km
> and changed oil i a little later than I would have liked on return after
> a total of 12000Kms.My 2.1 WBX motor has now done 165000Kms. I
> previously ran a Peugeot 505 Wagon on GTX2 and sold it with the original
> untouched motor still running well at 380,000Kms which seems to bear out
> > Nick's experience. I think if I had one of the new T5 diesels I might
> think differently but our engines are not of that generation.
> > Cheers
> > Roger
> >
> > nickbellau nick.bellgrove@... wrote: I have tried various oils in my
> syncro over the last 220,000 K's and keep going back to
> > Castrol GTX2.The viscosity suits our climate and its characteristics
> seem to be quite stable
> > over the lifetime of the oil. I found the fully synthetic Mobil to be
> too expensive while the
> > one you mentioned Mobil S changed viscosity over time and kept
> tripping the low oil
> > pressure switch on very hot days after big hill climbs, eg 35deg. days
> and 10 mins
> > constantly in 3rd gear. Have done 310,000 km on the same motor with
> the last 220,000
> > being with Castrol GTX2 99% of the time.
> >
> > -- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Ken" unclekenz@ wrote:
> > >
> > > Gday all,
> > > I'm wondering whether there is some commonality of views amongst
> > > members as to which engine oil is preferred in the 2.1 WBX.
> > >
> > > Service people for the previous owner of my Syncro were using Mobil
> S
> > > Synth 10W-40 for about 5 years.
> > >
> > > In the other cars in my family, I've been using Castrol Magnatec
> 10W-
> > > 40, so I'm wondering if it would help or hinder if I swapped to
> > > Magnatec for commonality. Magnatec is straight mineral oil, whereas
> the
> > > Mobil S Synth 10W-40 is a mineral/synthetic mix.
> > >
> > > Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.
> > >
> > > Ken
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Send instant messages to your online friends
> http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
> >
7
Gday Phil and ALL,

Very nice contribution .... thanks a lot and much food for thought here,
particularly for all those people concerned about the need to fix the
noisy tappet problem.

I know there are a range of views about using additives to fix problems,
I for one believe selecting a quality additive, after consultation with
my mechanic, is an alternative worth considering. Beware there are
cheap, dodgy products available, sticking to a quality brand like Nulon
is much safer.

Phil you suggested changing oil filter at 5k and oil at 10k instead.
Using Mobil 1, a synthetic oil, that may well be possible, given what
one reads about it's claimed longevity in a modern motor. Using mineral
oil, sure it would likely help keep the oil cleaner for longer. As I
understand it though, by 10k, the added expendable "goodies" in the oil,
in there to enhance a range of performance and protection functions, may
well and truly have been expended by then. Hence the 5k oil change, that
renews the "goodies" to benefit the motor and the filter is good for 10k
in this case.

As I said in a previous post, my syncro has had a semi synthetic oil in
it for at least 5 years under the previous owners service people. I've
never used a synthetic oil, that's why it's timely for me to have
started this topic to get a discussion going and perhaps we all get to
learn more from each other. Because I've found it confusing reading
about the claimed attributes of synthetic oils on the one hand, yet on
the other hand, motor mechanics, oil salespeople and others I speak with
give it a drubbing for reasons such as an unnecessary waste for this
older design VW motor, question the validity of claimed attributes, say
it's mostly a current fad except for latest technology engines and
performance vehicles, and in any case, way too expensive.

I stand to be corrected about commonality of oils used in members
syncros, that was the reason I started this topic. At this stage, if
this was a poll, there is no clear winner either way, I'm hoping for
more input from other members to add to the knowledge base. Thanks again
Phil. Any more members input please? Cheers.

Ken


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
> I fixed the noisy tappet problem by using Mobil 1. I can now leave my
syncro for months and there is no noise on start up.
>
> As for changing oil at 5k and filter at 10k. Why? Better off changing
the filter at 5k and the oil at 10.
>
> 10W-50 oil acts like a 10W oil when cold and like a 50W when hot.
Synthetic oils can stand heat much better than mineral oils. Mineral
oils break down and go thin when overheated.
>
>
>
> > Ken unclekenz@... wrote:
> >
> >
> > Gday Roger and ALL,
> >
> > Thanks Roger, another great contribution to this topic.
> >
> > Noisy tappets eh. Yes in my case though when I start it up after its
> > been parked in the garage for up to say a week without use, I
experience
> > what seems to be, as you say, noisy tappets. I raised this with my
VW
> > mechanic and he seemed pretty non-plussed about it as an issue that
> > needed addressing in any hurry. I do know after running it for a
short
> > while, the noisy tappets sound disappears. Seems to me its a bit of
a
> > balancing act as to what issue/s is uppermost in your mind as the
most
> > important, sways you toward a particular type of oil.
> >
> > Again, if you go by the VW handbook, it indicates that a thin 10
grade
> > oil isn't really warranted until you get below minus 15 degrees
> > centigrade. Maybe that in the snowfields or Tassie, not sure about
WA in
> > winter. My guess is your mechanic is simply prioritising dealing
with
> > the immediate problem of sticking (noisy) tappets. Similarly Roger,
my
> > Syncro has done 175,000 klms, close to yours. Noisy tappets too at
> > times, like yours.
> >
> > Roger, I'm sure there are forum members who can expertly define here
> > what the various gradings of oil really mean, for example ...
20W-50. As
> > a laymans general guide, and I stand to be corrected and refined,
the 20
> > refers to the viscosity (thin/thickness/stickyness) of the oil and
the
> > 50 refers to the heat handling capabilities of the oil. On top of
that,
> > makers add various expendable "goodies" as well to enhance
performance
> > in various ways. Fact or salesmanship or a bit of both? Probably
both.
> >
> > Another hint given to me recently is ... one should try and select
an
> > oil that is more commonly available throughout ones travels in
> > Australia. In other words, selecting a you-beaut obscure engine oil
in
> > Sydney, it won't necessarily be available off the shelf near say,
the
> > Tanami desert. Lugging spare you-beaut oil around Australia I guess
is
> > an option. Somewhere to stash it all. Extra weight. More wear and
tear.
> > Oh dear.
> >
> > Lastly, I haven't investigated this yet but I should soon ...
knowing VW
> > has its own endorsed coolant fluid ie., G12+, does VW also sell its
own
> > endorsed engine oil for normal range of year round Australian
> > conditions. If so, shouldn't we simply be using it?
> >
> > Good stuff Roger and thanks again. More thoughts please anyone? TIA.
> > Cheers.
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell bellrmit@
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > For what its worth my specialist VW/Subaru mechanic reckons they
have
> > quite a few owners complaining about noisy tappets which they
diagnose
> > as too heavy an oil causing the hydraulic valve lifters to be slow
in
> > pumping up. They fix them by replacing with lower viscosity oil.
They
> > put in a 10-30 grade non synthetic German brand for my trip to WA .
They
> > also justified the low viscosity by it being winter. Do I understand
> > correctly that multigrade oil basically is the viscosity of the
lower
> > level with additives to allow it to still perform like an oil at the
> > heavier level of its range. Car certainly ran well but have no idea
of
> > course about wear. Topped up with about half a litre after about
6000Km
> > and changed oil i a little later than I would have liked on return
after
> > a total of 12000Kms.My 2.1 WBX motor has now done 165000Kms. I
> > previously ran a Peugeot 505 Wagon on GTX2 and sold it with the
original
> > untouched motor still running well at 380,000Kms which seems to bear
out
> > > Nick's experience. I think if I had one of the new T5 diesels I
might
> > think differently but our engines are not of that generation.
> > > Cheers
> > > Roger
> > >
> > > nickbellau nick.bellgrove@ wrote: I have tried various oils in my
> > syncro over the last 220,000 K's and keep going back to
> > > Castrol GTX2.The viscosity suits our climate and its
characteristics
> > seem to be quite stable
> > > over the lifetime of the oil. I found the fully synthetic Mobil to
be
> > too expensive while the
> > > one you mentioned Mobil S changed viscosity over time and kept
> > tripping the low oil
> > > pressure switch on very hot days after big hill climbs, eg 35deg.
days
> > and 10 mins
> > > constantly in 3rd gear. Have done 310,000 km on the same motor
with
> > the last 220,000
> > > being with Castrol GTX2 99% of the time.
> > >
> > > -- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Ken" unclekenz@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Gday all,
> > > > I'm wondering whether there is some commonality of views amongst
> > > > members as to which engine oil is preferred in the 2.1 WBX.
> > > >
> > > > Service people for the previous owner of my Syncro were using
Mobil
> > S
> > > > Synth 10W-40 for about 5 years.
> > > >
> > > > In the other cars in my family, I've been using Castrol Magnatec
> > 10W-
> > > > 40, so I'm wondering if it would help or hinder if I swapped to
> > > > Magnatec for commonality. Magnatec is straight mineral oil,
whereas
> > the
> > > > Mobil S Synth 10W-40 is a mineral/synthetic mix.
> > > >
> > > > Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.
> > > >
> > > > Ken
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Send instant messages to your online friends
> > http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
> > >
>
8
All of the oil companies have engineers that are very willing to provide technical information. Give them a call.

Any decent oil will last a lot more than 10k without losing its properties. The oil lasts longer than the filter.

I don't see any difference between an old technology engine and a modern one. It's all about bits of metal rubbing up against other bits of metal. Synthetic oils were around long before the WBX motor was designed.



> Ken <unclekenz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gday Phil and ALL,
>
> Very nice contribution .... thanks a lot and much food for thought here,
> particularly for all those people concerned about the need to fix the
> noisy tappet problem.
>
> I know there are a range of views about using additives to fix problems,
> I for one believe selecting a quality additive, after consultation with
> my mechanic, is an alternative worth considering. Beware there are
> cheap, dodgy products available, sticking to a quality brand like Nulon
> is much safer.
>
> Phil you suggested changing oil filter at 5k and oil at 10k instead.
> Using Mobil 1, a synthetic oil, that may well be possible, given what
> one reads about it's claimed longevity in a modern motor. Using mineral
> oil, sure it would likely help keep the oil cleaner for longer. As I
> understand it though, by 10k, the added expendable "goodies" in the oil,
> in there to enhance a range of performance and protection functions, may
> well and truly have been expended by then. Hence the 5k oil change, that
> renews the "goodies" to benefit the motor and the filter is good for 10k
> in this case.
>
> As I said in a previous post, my syncro has had a semi synthetic oil in
> it for at least 5 years under the previous owners service people. I've
> never used a synthetic oil, that's why it's timely for me to have
> started this topic to get a discussion going and perhaps we all get to
> learn more from each other. Because I've found it confusing reading
> about the claimed attributes of synthetic oils on the one hand, yet on
> the other hand, motor mechanics, oil salespeople and others I speak with
> give it a drubbing for reasons such as an unnecessary waste for this
> older design VW motor, question the validity of claimed attributes, say
> it's mostly a current fad except for latest technology engines and
> performance vehicles, and in any case, way too expensive.
>
> I stand to be corrected about commonality of oils used in members
> syncros, that was the reason I started this topic. At this stage, if
> this was a poll, there is no clear winner either way, I'm hoping for
> more input from other members to add to the knowledge base. Thanks again
> Phil. Any more members input please? Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
> >
> > I fixed the noisy tappet problem by using Mobil 1. I can now leave my
> syncro for months and there is no noise on start up.
> >
> > As for changing oil at 5k and filter at 10k. Why? Better off changing
> the filter at 5k and the oil at 10.
> >
> > 10W-50 oil acts like a 10W oil when cold and like a 50W when hot.
> Synthetic oils can stand heat much better than mineral oils. Mineral
> oils break down and go thin when overheated.
> >
> >
> >
> > > Ken unclekenz@... wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Gday Roger and ALL,
> > >
> > > Thanks Roger, another great contribution to this topic.
> > >
> > > Noisy tappets eh. Yes in my case though when I start it up after its
> > > been parked in the garage for up to say a week without use, I
> experience
> > > what seems to be, as you say, noisy tappets. I raised this with my
> VW
> > > mechanic and he seemed pretty non-plussed about it as an issue that
> > > needed addressing in any hurry. I do know after running it for a
> short
> > > while, the noisy tappets sound disappears. Seems to me its a bit of
> a
> > > balancing act as to what issue/s is uppermost in your mind as the
> most
> > > important, sways you toward a particular type of oil.
> > >
> > > Again, if you go by the VW handbook, it indicates that a thin 10
> grade
> > > oil isn't really warranted until you get below minus 15 degrees
> > > centigrade. Maybe that in the snowfields or Tassie, not sure about
> WA in
> > > winter. My guess is your mechanic is simply prioritising dealing
> with
> > > the immediate problem of sticking (noisy) tappets. Similarly Roger,
> my
> > > Syncro has done 175,000 klms, close to yours. Noisy tappets too at
> > > times, like yours.
> > >
> > > Roger, I'm sure there are forum members who can expertly define here
> > > what the various gradings of oil really mean, for example ...
> 20W-50. As
> > > a laymans general guide, and I stand to be corrected and refined,
> the 20
> > > refers to the viscosity (thin/thickness/stickyness) of the oil and
> the
> > > 50 refers to the heat handling capabilities of the oil. On top of
> that,
> > > makers add various expendable "goodies" as well to enhance
> performance
> > > in various ways. Fact or salesmanship or a bit of both? Probably
> both.
> > >
> > > Another hint given to me recently is ... one should try and select
> an
> > > oil that is more commonly available throughout ones travels in
> > > Australia. In other words, selecting a you-beaut obscure engine oil
> in
> > > Sydney, it won't necessarily be available off the shelf near say,
> the
> > > Tanami desert. Lugging spare you-beaut oil around Australia I guess
> is
> > > an option. Somewhere to stash it all. Extra weight. More wear and
> tear.
> > > Oh dear.
> > >
> > > Lastly, I haven't investigated this yet but I should soon ...
> knowing VW
> > > has its own endorsed coolant fluid ie., G12+, does VW also sell its
> own
> > > endorsed engine oil for normal range of year round Australian
> > > conditions. If so, shouldn't we simply be using it?
> > >
> > > Good stuff Roger and thanks again. More thoughts please anyone? TIA.
> > > Cheers.
> > >
> > > Ken
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell bellrmit@
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > For what its worth my specialist VW/Subaru mechanic reckons they
> have
> > > quite a few owners complaining about noisy tappets which they
> diagnose
> > > as too heavy an oil causing the hydraulic valve lifters to be slow
> in
> > > pumping up. They fix them by replacing with lower viscosity oil.
> They
> > > put in a 10-30 grade non synthetic German brand for my trip to WA .
> They
> > > also justified the low viscosity by it being winter. Do I understand
> > > correctly that multigrade oil basically is the viscosity of the
> lower
> > > level with additives to allow it to still perform like an oil at the
> > > heavier level of its range. Car certainly ran well but have no idea
> of
> > > course about wear. Topped up with about half a litre after about
> 6000Km
> > > and changed oil i a little later than I would have liked on return
> after
> > > a total of 12000Kms.My 2.1 WBX motor has now done 165000Kms. I
> > > previously ran a Peugeot 505 Wagon on GTX2 and sold it with the
> original
> > > untouched motor still running well at 380,000Kms which seems to bear
> out
> > > > Nick's experience. I think if I had one of the new T5 diesels I
> might
> > > think differently but our engines are not of that generation.
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Roger
> > > >
> > > > nickbellau nick.bellgrove@ wrote: I have tried various oils in my
> > > syncro over the last 220,000 K's and keep going back to
> > > > Castrol GTX2.The viscosity suits our climate and its
> characteristics
> > > seem to be quite stable
> > > > over the lifetime of the oil. I found the fully synthetic Mobil to
> be
> > > too expensive while the
> > > > one you mentioned Mobil S changed viscosity over time and kept
> > > tripping the low oil
> > > > pressure switch on very hot days after big hill climbs, eg 35deg.
> days
> > > and 10 mins
> > > > constantly in 3rd gear. Have done 310,000 km on the same motor
> with
> > > the last 220,000
> > > > being with Castrol GTX2 99% of the time.
> > > >
> > > > -- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Ken" unclekenz@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Gday all,
> > > > > I'm wondering whether there is some commonality of views amongst
> > > > > members as to which engine oil is preferred in the 2.1 WBX.
> > > > >
> > > > > Service people for the previous owner of my Syncro were using
> Mobil
> > > S
> > > > > Synth 10W-40 for about 5 years.
> > > > >
> > > > > In the other cars in my family, I've been using Castrol Magnatec
> > > 10W-
> > > > > 40, so I'm wondering if it would help or hinder if I swapped to
> > > > > Magnatec for commonality. Magnatec is straight mineral oil,
> whereas
> > > the
> > > > > Mobil S Synth 10W-40 is a mineral/synthetic mix.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers.
> > > > >
> > > > > Ken
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Send instant messages to your online friends
> > > http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
> > > >
> >