Cooling system overhaul

21

Cool, one other interesting point is the temperature rise when you turn off, eg after a drive, if the return temp while driving is at 40degC, turn off, after 15min or so, the temp will rise to 65-70C.

So this would show a combination of the cooling that happens through the radiator (as in inlet temperature should be higher than the thermostat temp), plus some difference between actual coolant temp and what the gauge see's.

Turn off, and this balances out over time before it starts to drop.


Some interesting pics from a thermal camera ~2 years ago, the temp displayed is at the point of the cross hairs in the image.

Pics were taken with van stationary after a long drive and left it idle for 10 min or so, so the fan cycled on/off a few times before taking pics. I expect it would be different while driving.

The radiator is masked by the AC condenser (AC was off) in the pics.

22

Interested to know what it looks like? I assume std coolant hose and plastic tee pieces?


Out of interest, decided to search on the part number, and sent a heap of emails. SK from France has one in stock, hopefully they can ship it out. All vendors have the same story, NLA for ~12 months. A few places said the C part number is for the ute, and is a shorter pipe. From pictures looks like one connection missing. So you could use one of these and a tee piece to connect up the missing link.


I don't have a ute to compare, if any one has a pic from the engine bay? Not sure why a ute would be different though?

23
Yes, Rich, the ute one is shorter, will have look in a moment. Still tooo hot to go out. Will make some pics and try and check why its different. Its beautifully built and would be easy to except another connex.
hart

Sent from my iPad

On 24 Jan 2017, at 6:03 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Interested to know what it looks like? I assume std coolant hose and plastic tee pieces?


Out of interest, decided to search on the part number, and sent a heap of emails. SK from France has one in stock, hopefully they can ship it out. All vendors have the same story, NLA for ~12 months. A few places said the C part number is for the ute, and is a shorter pipe. From pictures looks like one connection missing. So you could use one of these and a tee piece to connect up the missing link.


I don't have a ute to compare, if any one has a pic from the engine bay? Not sure why a ute would be different though?

24
CORRECTION, Rich, the ute one is the same ( at east in my ute) it's costructed from steel tube has six connections.
Have a second hand one if you need to borrow one , see pic. It's from a bus.
Could maybe ship to Bris ,no cost to you.



Sent from my iPad

On 24 Jan 2017, at 6:13 PM, Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Yes, Rich, the ute one is shorter, will have look in a moment. Still tooo hot to go out. Will make some pics and try and check why its different. Its beautifully built and would be easy to except another connex.
hart

Sent from my iPad

On 24 Jan 2017, at 6:03 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Interested to know what it looks like? I assume std coolant hose and plastic tee pieces?


Out of interest, decided to search on the part number, and sent a heap of emails. SK from France has one in stock, hopefully they can ship it out. All vendors have the same story, NLA for ~12 months. A few places said the C part number is for the ute, and is a shorter pipe. From pictures looks like one connection missing. So you could use one of these and a tee piece to connect up the missing link.


I don't have a ute to compare, if any one has a pic from the engine bay? Not sure why a ute would be different though?


25


Sent from my iPad

On 24 Jan 2017, at 6:13 PM, Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Yes, Rich, the ute one is shorter, will have look in a moment. Still tooo hot to go out. Will make some pics and try and check why its different. Its beautifully built and would be easy to except another connex.
hart

Sent from my iPad

On 24 Jan 2017, at 6:03 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Interested to know what it looks like? I assume std coolant hose and plastic tee pieces?


Out of interest, decided to search on the part number, and sent a heap of emails. SK from France has one in stock, hopefully they can ship it out. All vendors have the same story, NLA for ~12 months. A few places said the C part number is for the ute, and is a shorter pipe. From pictures looks like one connection missing. So you could use one of these and a tee piece to connect up the missing link.


I don't have a ute to compare, if any one has a pic from the engine bay? Not sure why a ute would be different though?


26
Temperature rise after turn off.
The engine is not uniformly cool when it is running.
There are areas with significantly higher temperatures than the coolant.
With a result, when you turn off, when the coolant is no longer being circulated,
this hot area heat becomes spreads out.

I had an interesting experience some years ago while driving a 4 litre 
Vanden Plas Princess back to Sydney from Canberra.
We stopped at Sutton Forrest Maccas for a coffee, and when we returned to the car,
the radiator pressure relief valve was bleeding water onto the driveway.
The engine was boiling.

The engine had been running at a nice constant 85 C all the way from Canberra,
but now when there was no circulating coolant, 
the stored heat in hundreds of kilos of cast iron and steel was transferring that heat to the water in the cooling galleries.
It was boiling and creating steam,  which was being released  by the pressure relief valve.
There was not a lot of water lost, so we drove off and the temperature quickly returned to 85 C.

Peter






On 24 Jan 2017, at 5:58 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Cool, one other interesting point is the temperature rise when you turn off, eg after a drive, if the return temp while driving is at 40degC, turn off, after 15min or so, the temp will rise to 65-70C.

So this would show a combination of the cooling that happens through the radiator (as in inlet temperature should be higher than the thermostat temp), plus some difference between actual coolant temp and what the gauge see's.

Turn off, and this balances out over time before it starts to drop.


Some interesting pics from a thermal camera ~2 years ago, the temp displayed is at the point of the cross hairs in the image.

Pics were taken with van stationary after a long drive and left it idle for 10 min or so, so the fan cycled on/off a few times before taking pics. I expect it would be different while driving.

The radiator is masked by the AC condenser (AC was off) in the pics.



<FLIR0876.jpg><FLIR0875.jpg><FLIR0891.jpg><FLIR0884.jpg><FLIR0879.jpg>

27

Much appreciated Hart, that's interesting as from the little research I have done the steel ones were on earlier models, so expected them to be gone by the time the Syncro came along.

This is the correct one for my Bus (2WD and 4WD)

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/fb92cc03449b3a3f4af43a3c96e9bb3d/0/2/025121045a.jpg

This is the comment from Brick works:

"We can get the pickup one (025121045C) although its smaller than the van version so not really interchangeable.       The van version has been on back order for over a year now, I doubt we'll see those again sadly."

This was similar from the long list of suppliers I contacted. I have not found a picture or details of the C version, but if it's only shorter or has one less connection, would be easy to use and make up the difference with a bit of hose and fittings


Thanks also for the offer on your spare one, but I should be fine. Mine is still good but will replace with new when I do all the hoses. SK in France had one original left in stock, so hopefully that one will be in the post soon.

For others that might want one there is a huge cost difference though, this one was $120 (plus postage from France) compared to the hose kit from Go Westy for $40. I assume most people would not bother trying to find an original and just get the kit.


Richard

28
The GoWesty Audible Coolant Temp Alarm Kit is easy to install in the instrument cluster and weighs next to nothing which is an important consideration when paying freight from the US.

Those hose clamps look really good. Rolled edges, too, so they don't cut into the radiator hoses.

Thanks for the tip.
29

Hi Richard and all,

Attached is a pdf reference file that shows the location of coolant system spring clamps, including part numbers, for a vanagon (T3) 2WD. l'd assume the clamp set would also suit the syncro.


At the following source (the only source of new clamps I've ever found to date), the same range of clamps as found above are listed for sale here:

http://www.vwbusshop.de/epages/GuenzlClassicParts.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/GuenzlClassicParts/Categories/%22T3%201979-92%22/Motorteile/Wasserboxer/%22Wasserkreislauf%20ab%2086%22


Failing all else, enquire at your local VW parts department? 


A hint. The genuine OEM spring clamps have a stop that limits the stretch of the clamp when installing/removing. At times that limitation makes it quite difficult to get the spring clamp on/off a hose. To enable easier clamp removal/install, I simply removed some or even all of the stop, depending on degree of problem in any situation.

I found it worked for me and to date, no problem. Trial it first on a spare spring clip, see what you think.


I have most, but not all currently available, silicone hoses installed, including their accompanying special SS screw-up clamps. No problem to date other than the occasional necessity to check the special screw-up clamps for tightness/leakage.

Therein begs the question re ... nuisance periodic clamp re-checking. What's against reinstalling the original genuine spring clamps when fitting the silicone hoses? It's generally accepted to follow the advice of the silicone hoses manufacturer ... GeeBee, install his supplied special screw-up clamps instead. It'd be interesting if someone who's installing the silicone hoses soon, to test their fit and seal using instead the genuine original OEM spring clamps and report back here your findings.


Whether or not it's just sales hype, the talk is that the silicone hoses, once fitted, will never need to be replaced, unlike the problematic original rubber hoses.


It's his silicone hoses for our syncros that are for sale at Van Cafe, included in the complete hose kit:

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van_1223689737929/page_194_1141/syncro-coolant-hose-kit-1986-1991.html

Some info re designer/manufacturer of these silicone hoses ... GeeBee. His name is Guy.

Occupation: Flying

Topics he started: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search_id=usertopics&user=87156


His adverts on The Samba: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=GEEBEE

t=500665&highlight=n77gb+msn


Buyer feedback at The Samba: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?


Other stuff he makes, for example:

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-DefrostDuct.html

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-AC-Hoses.html

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-BaffleSeals.html

The guy seems to be talented, might even know what he's doing. HA!

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 20 January 2017 11:48 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Cooling system overhaul
 
 

Thanks for the detailed reply Roger,

The audible alarm is a great idea, how have you hooked this up?

I have been pondering on the clamps for a while, you can get similar cheap out of china (I have ordered a few different ones to compare)

Norma brand seem to make equivalents. I have ordered a couple as well as these (see link below). The same seller has these and the original style, so I can compare a few. Your right, not cheap!


No idea on silicon hoses, I got my hose kit a while ago, and a few of the hoses are the silicon ones. As the originals seem to last, not sure why the need to change.


I would no use anything other than coolant to help slip hoses on, and only if they are too hard to get on dry. You should not need sealants, and other chemicals run the risk of damaging the hose.



NORMA TORRO CLAMPS CONSTANT TENSION 20 to 32mm HOSE CLAMPS - PACK OF 10 | eBay

 



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gullyraker53@...> wrote :

The cooling system is the Achilles Heel of the Syncro, and after two or three decades the weakest link in the chain will always let you own on the side of Big Red when you are rushing back to Birdsville after being bitten by a mulga snake.

The only problems I have had in 15 years are coolant leaks or faulty sensors. Those plastic pipes are a pain, and I found out the hard way that you have to check that the steel inserts at the end are in place before tightening the hose clamp.

Even made up some new ones. They seem to last pretty well with the recommended coolant, but rot out quickly with just water, which some uncaring owners have been known to use.

I subscribe to the mantra of replacing all the components every ten years, and my old girl is due for a cooling system overhaul again as soon as I can find a full day to do it.

Have collected most of the parts - going for SS pipes, Christmas tree and reservoir, new radiator, thermostat, belts, hoses, baffles, grommets, and heater hoses. Even have a replacement bleed rail, but will probably just carry it as a spare in case the original let's go.

The best insurance is an audible alarm for coolant loss - then if you spring a leak, you can fix it before any damage is done. A roll of 'rescue tape' and a few spare hose clamps is a must.

A couple of hose connectors can be useful if you need to bypass a failed heater core or control valve.

I carry a set of spare hoses and belts wrapped in bubble-wrap behind the cardboard panel on the tailgate.

Speaking of hose clamps, even the best worm-drive screw clamps don't seem to work as well as the original spring clamps - the screws need tightening from time to time, where as the originals expand and contract as required.

Unfortunately the sizes favoured by VW aren't readily available - and I worry that the originals might be 'losing it'. Has anyone found a source (apart from taking out a loan to but 'genuine'?)

You need a pair of hose-clamp pliers to get at some of the difficult ones. I have a couple of different types, including one on the end of a flexible cable - they make life a lot easier.

Where there is enough space, I use two clamps.

Google 'how to use radiator clamps' as it is amazing how many people do it wrong, and toast their engine.

My next purchase is a complete set of hoses. I'm tossing up between silicone and OME quality. The genuine hoses seem to last a hell of a long time except for those little suckers on the 'oil cooler' and the one behind the drivers-side cylinder head.

Has anyone used the silicone hoses?

Some people like to coat the inside of hose before connecting them, both to help the hose slip over the junction, and help it to seal.

Some use Vaseline or rubber grease as a lubricant, which makes the hose easy to remove next time.

Others use silicone sealant or various types of gasket goo or Loctite hydraulic sealant, to make a leak-proof fit that can be hard to remove at a later date.

My old mate at the Muffler and Radiator Shop just smeared a little coolant over the inside of the hose before slipping it on.

Any thoughts?

Roger


30

Thanks Ken, that sheet is excellent. I was unsure how they sized the clamps, so this is great.

I had found them here also (https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/recherche/&p=2&c=1013) where I got the bleeder tube.

Is the vwbusshop.de in the link, the same as the Bus stop in the UK?


I have not rung VW, but have been told you can get them from VW still. I have a Golf 4 and they have the same clamps on them. I have no checked if the sizes are all the same though.

I have no idea on the silicon and clamps. The hose kit I have has a few silicon ones in it with hose clamps. They are a nice hose clamp, but don't look to be anything special. The only thing I can think of is the factory style do leave a big mark in the hose over time, perhaps the silicon is less forgiving to the pressure from the original spring clamps?

What I have found with some hose clamps, even good quality ones is in the smaller sizes they tend to not pull tight evenly (they go out of round). Your best to use them at the top limit of their diameter range, not the bottom to help minimise this.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :

Hi Richard and all,

Attached is a pdf reference file that shows the location of coolant system spring clamps, including part numbers, for a vanagon (T3) 2WD. l'd assume the clamp set would also suit the syncro.


At the following source (the only source of new clamps I've ever found to date), the same range of clamps as found above are listed for sale here:

http://www.vwbusshop.de/epages/GuenzlClassicParts.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/GuenzlClassicParts/Categories/%22T3%201979-92%22/Motorteile/Wasserboxer/%22Wasserkreislauf%20ab%2086%22


Failing all else, enquire at your local VW parts department? 


A hint. The genuine OEM spring clamps have a stop that limits the stretch of the clamp when installing/removing. At times that limitation makes it quite difficult to get the spring clamp on/off a hose. To enable easier clamp removal/install, I simply removed some or even all of the stop, depending on degree of problem in any situation.

I found it worked for me and to date, no problem. Trial it first on a spare spring clip, see what you think.


I have most, but not all currently available, silicone hoses installed, including their accompanying special SS screw-up clamps. No problem to date other than the occasional necessity to check the special screw-up clamps for tightness/leakage.

Therein begs the question re ... nuisance periodic clamp re-checking. What's against reinstalling the original genuine spring clamps when fitting the silicone hoses? It's generally accepted to follow the advice of the silicone hoses manufacturer ... GeeBee, install his supplied special screw-up clamps instead. It'd be interesting if someone who's installing the silicone hoses soon, to test their fit and seal using instead the genuine original OEM spring clamps and report back here your findings.


Whether or not it's just sales hype, the talk is that the silicone hoses, once fitted, will never need to be replaced, unlike the problematic original rubber hoses.


It's his silicone hoses for our syncros that are for sale at Van Cafe, included in the complete hose kit:

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van_1223689737929/page_194_1141/syncro-coolant-hose-kit-1986-1991.html

Some info re designer/manufacturer of these silicone hoses ... GeeBee. His name is Guy.

Occupation: Flying

Topics he started: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search_id=usertopics&user=87156


His adverts on The Samba: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=GEEBEE

t=500665&highlight=n77gb+msn


Buyer feedback at The Samba: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?


Other stuff he makes, for example:

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-DefrostDuct.html

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-AC-Hoses.html

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-BaffleSeals.html

The guy seems to be talented, might even know what he's doing. HA!

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 20 January 2017 11:48 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Cooling system overhaul
 
 

Thanks for the detailed reply Roger,

The audible alarm is a great idea, how have you hooked this up?

I have been pondering on the clamps for a while, you can get similar cheap out of china (I have ordered a few different ones to compare)

Norma brand seem to make equivalents. I have ordered a couple as well as these (see link below). The same seller has these and the original style, so I can compare a few. Your right, not cheap!


No idea on silicon hoses, I got my hose kit a while ago, and a few of the hoses are the silicon ones. As the originals seem to last, not sure why the need to change.


I would no use anything other than coolant to help slip hoses on, and only if they are too hard to get on dry. You should not need sealants, and other chemicals run the risk of damaging the hose.



NORMA TORRO CLAMPS CONSTANT TENSION 20 to 32mm HOSE CLAMPS - PACK OF 10 | eBay

 



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gullyraker53@...> wrote :

The cooling system is the Achilles Heel of the Syncro, and after two or three decades the weakest link in the chain will always let you own on the side of Big Red when you are rushing back to Birdsville after being bitten by a mulga snake.

The only problems I have had in 15 years are coolant leaks or faulty sensors. Those plastic pipes are a pain, and I found out the hard way that you have to check that the steel inserts at the end are in place before tightening the hose clamp.

Even made up some new ones. They seem to last pretty well with the recommended coolant, but rot out quickly with just water, which some uncaring owners have been known to use.

I subscribe to the mantra of replacing all the components every ten years, and my old girl is due for a cooling system overhaul again as soon as I can find a full day to do it.

Have collected most of the parts - going for SS pipes, Christmas tree and reservoir, new radiator, thermostat, belts, hoses, baffles, grommets, and heater hoses. Even have a replacement bleed rail, but will probably just carry it as a spare in case the original let's go.

The best insurance is an audible alarm for coolant loss - then if you spring a leak, you can fix it before any damage is done. A roll of 'rescue tape' and a few spare hose clamps is a must.

A couple of hose connectors can be useful if you need to bypass a failed heater core or control valve.

I carry a set of spare hoses and belts wrapped in bubble-wrap behind the cardboard panel on the tailgate.

Speaking of hose clamps, even the best worm-drive screw clamps don't seem to work as well as the original spring clamps - the screws need tightening from time to time, where as the originals expand and contract as required.

Unfortunately the sizes favoured by VW aren't readily available - and I worry that the originals might be 'losing it'. Has anyone found a source (apart from taking out a loan to but 'genuine'?)

You need a pair of hose-clamp pliers to get at some of the difficult ones. I have a couple of different types, including one on the end of a flexible cable - they make life a lot easier.

Where there is enough space, I use two clamps.

Google 'how to use radiator clamps' as it is amazing how many people do it wrong, and toast their engine.

My next purchase is a complete set of hoses. I'm tossing up between silicone and OME quality. The genuine hoses seem to last a hell of a long time except for those little suckers on the 'oil cooler' and the one behind the drivers-side cylinder head.

Has anyone used the silicone hoses?

Some people like to coat the inside of hose before connecting them, both to help the hose slip over the junction, and help it to seal.

Some use Vaseline or rubber grease as a lubricant, which makes the hose easy to remove next time.

Others use silicone sealant or various types of gasket goo or Loctite hydraulic sealant, to make a leak-proof fit that can be hard to remove at a later date.

My old mate at the Muffler and Radiator Shop just smeared a little coolant over the inside of the hose before slipping it on.

Any thoughts?

Roger


31

I don't know Bus stop in the UK. Have you the web address?

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 31 January 2017 10:56 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Cooling system overhaul
 
 

Thanks Ken, that sheet is excellent. I was unsure how they sized the clamps, so this is great.

I had found them here also (https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/recherche/&p=2&c=1013) where I got the bleeder tube.

Is the vwbusshop.de in the link, the same as the Bus stop in the UK?


I have not rung VW, but have been told you can get them from VW still. I have a Golf 4 and they have the same clamps on them. I have no checked if the sizes are all the same though.

I have no idea on the silicon and clamps. The hose kit I have has a few silicon ones in it with hose clamps. They are a nice hose clamp, but don't look to be anything special. The only thing I can think of is the factory style do leave a big mark in the hose over time, perhaps the silicon is less forgiving to the pressure from the original spring clamps?

What I have found with some hose clamps, even good quality ones is in the smaller sizes they tend to not pull tight evenly (they go out of round). Your best to use them at the top limit of their diameter range, not the bottom to help minimise this.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :

Hi Richard and all,

Attached is a pdf reference file that shows the location of coolant system spring clamps, including part numbers, for a vanagon (T3) 2WD. l'd assume the clamp set would also suit the syncro.


At the following source (the only source of new clamps I've ever found to date), the same range of clamps as found above are listed for sale here:

http://www.vwbusshop.de/epages/GuenzlClassicParts.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/GuenzlClassicParts/Categories/%22T3%201979-92%22/Motorteile/Wasserboxer/%22Wasserkreislauf%20ab%2086%22

www.vwbusshop.de
Coolant reservoir for WBX and diesel engines. Product no.: 025121403: 59.80 € *


Failing all else, enquire at your local VW parts department? 


A hint. The genuine OEM spring clamps have a stop that limits the stretch of the clamp when installing/removing. At times that limitation makes it quite difficult to get the spring clamp on/off a hose. To enable easier clamp removal/install, I simply removed some or even all of the stop, depending on degree of problem in any situation.

I found it worked for me and to date, no problem. Trial it first on a spare spring clip, see what you think.


I have most, but not all currently available, silicone hoses installed, including their accompanying special SS screw-up clamps. No problem to date other than the occasional necessity to check the special screw-up clamps for tightness/leakage.

Therein begs the question re ... nuisance periodic clamp re-checking. What's against reinstalling the original genuine spring clamps when fitting the silicone hoses? It's generally accepted to follow the advice of the silicone hoses manufacturer ... GeeBee, install his supplied special screw-up clamps instead. It'd be interesting if someone who's installing the silicone hoses soon, to test their fit and seal using instead the genuine original OEM spring clamps and report back here your findings.


Whether or not it's just sales hype, the talk is that the silicone hoses, once fitted, will never need to be replaced, unlike the problematic original rubber hoses.


It's his silicone hoses for our syncros that are for sale at Van Cafe, included in the complete hose kit:

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van_1223689737929/page_194_1141/syncro-coolant-hose-kit-1986-1991.html

www.van-cafe.com
This hose kit will fit 1986-1991 Syncro Vanagons. We try to put together a kit that includes all of the hoses from engine to radiator except for heater core hose....



Some info re designer/manufacturer of these silicone hoses ... GeeBee. His name is Guy.

Occupation: Flying

Topics he started: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search_id=usertopics&user=87156

www.thesamba.com
Classified ads, photos, shows, links, forums, and technical information for the Volkswagen automobile



His adverts on The Samba: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=GEEBEE

www.thesamba.com
Classified ads, photos, shows, links, forums, and technical information for the Volkswagen automobile

t=500665&highlight=n77gb+msn


Buyer feedback at The Samba: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?


Other stuff he makes, for example:

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-DefrostDuct.html

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-AC-Hoses.html

http://www.csobeech.com/GeeBee-BaffleSeals.html

The guy seems to be talented, might even know what he's doing. HA!

Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 20 January 2017 11:48 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Cooling system overhaul
 
 

Thanks for the detailed reply Roger,

The audible alarm is a great idea, how have you hooked this up?

I have been pondering on the clamps for a while, you can get similar cheap out of china (I have ordered a few different ones to compare)

Norma brand seem to make equivalents. I have ordered a couple as well as these (see link below). The same seller has these and the original style, so I can compare a few. Your right, not cheap!


No idea on silicon hoses, I got my hose kit a while ago, and a few of the hoses are the silicon ones. As the originals seem to last, not sure why the need to change.


I would no use anything other than coolant to help slip hoses on, and only if they are too hard to get on dry. You should not need sealants, and other chemicals run the risk of damaging the hose.



NORMA TORRO CLAMPS CONSTANT TENSION 20 to 32mm HOSE CLAMPS - PACK OF 10 | eBay

 



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gullyraker53@...> wrote :

The cooling system is the Achilles Heel of the Syncro, and after two or three decades the weakest link in the chain will always let you own on the side of Big Red when you are rushing back to Birdsville after being bitten by a mulga snake.

The only problems I have had in 15 years are coolant leaks or faulty sensors. Those plastic pipes are a pain, and I found out the hard way that you have to check that the steel inserts at the end are in place before tightening the hose clamp.

Even made up some new ones. They seem to last pretty well with the recommended coolant, but rot out quickly with just water, which some uncaring owners have been known to use.

I subscribe to the mantra of replacing all the components every ten years, and my old girl is due for a cooling system overhaul again as soon as I can find a full day to do it.

Have collected most of the parts - going for SS pipes, Christmas tree and reservoir, new radiator, thermostat, belts, hoses, baffles, grommets, and heater hoses. Even have a replacement bleed rail, but will probably just carry it as a spare in case the original let's go.

The best insurance is an audible alarm for coolant loss - then if you spring a leak, you can fix it before any damage is done. A roll of 'rescue tape' and a few spare hose clamps is a must.

A couple of hose connectors can be useful if you need to bypass a failed heater core or control valve.

I carry a set of spare hoses and belts wrapped in bubble-wrap behind the cardboard panel on the tailgate.

Speaking of hose clamps, even the best worm-drive screw clamps don't seem to work as well as the original spring clamps - the screws need tightening from time to time, where as the originals expand and contract as required.

Unfortunately the sizes favoured by VW aren't readily available - and I worry that the originals might be 'losing it'. Has anyone found a source (apart from taking out a loan to but 'genuine'?)

You need a pair of hose-clamp pliers to get at some of the difficult ones. I have a couple of different types, including one on the end of a flexible cable - they make life a lot easier.

Where there is enough space, I use two clamps.

Google 'how to use radiator clamps' as it is amazing how many people do it wrong, and toast their engine.

My next purchase is a complete set of hoses. I'm tossing up between silicone and OME quality. The genuine hoses seem to last a hell of a long time except for those little suckers on the 'oil cooler' and the one behind the drivers-side cylinder head.

Has anyone used the silicone hoses?

Some people like to coat the inside of hose before connecting them, both to help the hose slip over the junction, and help it to seal.

Some use Vaseline or rubber grease as a lubricant, which makes the hose easy to remove next time.

Others use silicone sealant or various types of gasket goo or Loctite hydraulic sealant, to make a leak-proof fit that can be hard to remove at a later date.

My old mate at the Muffler and Radiator Shop just smeared a little coolant over the inside of the hose before slipping it on.

Any thoughts?

Roger


32

OK, I must be getting confused with web sites, neither look related sorry.

http://www.thebusstop.com.au/  (Australia)

https://www.justkampers.com/  (UK)

Richard

33

Just a quick update for your interest. Despite the recent heat, I have not done any long trips in the Syncro. Did a longer drive up the coast this week end, bus loaded with enough gear for a few days away (2adults, 3kids). On the highway with AC on, sitting on 110kph, my extra temp gauge on the radiator got up to 69degC, the hottest I have seen so far (when on the highway). Ambient was meant to be ~37C, so am happy with that. Again gauge on the dash was in the normal position.

Richard

34

Hi all,

Still getting ready to relace the last of the original cooling system (mostly hoses, and a few SS pipes)

I assume to replace everything I need to remove the triple pulley, belts, AC pump to get access. Anything else that needs to come out of the way to get access?

How hard is the pulley to remove? I'm guessing I will need ot make a spanner to get the bolt off, but do you need a puller to get it off? Not sure there's room to fit a puller in there?


Thanks,

Richard