Cooling system overhaul

cathrich1 · 11 January 2017 12:19

Hi all,

I have most of the parts to overhaul the cooling system on the bus (complete hose kit). I have previously replaced the radiator, thermostat and heater hoses, just gearing up to do the rest.

Question though, while it's all apart, I see there are few gaskets, such as the hose adaptors on the heads, where the thermostat housing bolts on etc. Are these worth replacing, or best left alone?

While I'm at it am looking to replace the header tank and the plastic junction just forward of the air box.

The steel pipes all look in good condition (the ones I have had off in the past), so don't plan to replace these.

Unfortunately the bleeder ring main in the engine bay seems to be NLA, not sure what to do with that one just yet. (the kit from GoWesty has a lot of joints in it!)

I will leave the head gasket though, the engine has not done a lot of KM since re-build, but was done a long time ago (by the previous owner). Not sure if these tend to go with age? The system has always had G12+ coolant.

I'm in no great rush to do the work, just want to make sure I have everything I need for when I get stuck into the job.

Thanks for any comments/suggestions

Richard

geraldandrobyn · 11 January 2017 17:39

Hi Richard. My syncro is getting the complete cooling system replaced. Stainless steel pipes under the car were replaced 1 year ago, with new thermostat, and s/s junction pipe. Now, it's getting the silicone hose kit, aluminium reservoir and s/s pipes in the engine bay replaced.
I got most of these from Van Cafe, Bus Depot and Go Westy.
It seems that the steel pipes come from Germany, so you could get them from Gunzl, and save a little money, but they take a bit longer to get here.
We are both retired now, and we want to travel in Australia in years to come. So it's just a form of insurance.
Gerald.

syncro · 11 January 2017 20:04

The problem may be that you are replacing perfectly good German parts with unreliable rubbish. Be careful.

geraldandrobyn · 12 January 2017 04:51

My "perfectly good German" 27 year old steel pipe in the engine bay on the left hand side coming back from the thermostat was rusted from the inside out and leaking coolant. I only want to do this once. End of story.

syncro · 12 January 2017 09:24

If you replaced it with the same it would last another 27 years. Will you have the car in 27 years?

cathrich1 · 12 January 2017 12:32

Thanks all for the replies, I guess that is always the dilemma, hang onto 28 year old original parts or try your luck with new. Even though mine is mostly original I know the long plastic pipes are cracking on the ends and a couple of the small hoses on the engine have been replaced at some stage, one of the hoses to the thermostat split for me a year or so ago (luckily was just a minor weep and got home fine with a bit of tape over the leak). I think it's only a matter of time before more start to let go.

The few steel pipes I have looked at so far have been OK, but will look closely at all when it's apart, any that are dodgy will be replaced with SS.

The hose kit I have is from Van-café, seems to be good quality, time will be the true test. Like Gerald I think I will have a better chance with new.

I looked at the aluminium header tank also, but think I will go with the original style.

I does seem everyone has different experiences with their bus, I have been very happy with mine to date, it had only done 200k km when I got it and most parts are original and in good condition. The engine and gear box have been re-built though (10-15 years ago). So why would a good well cared for and maintained bus need and engine and GB re-built with less than 200k km on the clock?

Similar, I have a 2WD auto caravelle, again well cared for and maintained bus, with ~200k km on the clock, receipts show the heads were replaced ~'94. All servicing on that bus was from a reputable VW shop, so why would the heads let go? (even back then they were replaced with AMC heads)

One thing I have not looked into is the hose spring clamps. Some of mine have been replaced with hose clamps. I assume when the engine was taken out someone figured hose clamps were better? Not sure if they are still available anywhere?

Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Hi all,

I have most of the parts to overhaul the cooling system on the bus (complete hose kit). I have previously replaced the radiator, thermostat and heater hoses, just gearing up to do the rest.

Question though, while it's all apart, I see there are few gaskets, such as the hose adaptors on the heads, where the thermostat housing bolts on etc. Are these worth replacing, or best left alone?

While I'm at it am looking to replace the header tank and the plastic junction just forward of the air box.

The steel pipes all look in good condition (the ones I have had off in the past), so don't plan to replace these.

Unfortunately the bleeder ring main in the engine bay seems to be NLA, not sure what to do with that one just yet. (the kit from GoWesty has a lot of joints in it!)

I will leave the head gasket though, the engine has not done a lot of KM since re-build, but was done a long time ago (by the previous owner). Not sure if these tend to go with age? The system has always had G12+ coolant.

I'm in no great rush to do the work, just want to make sure I have everything I need for when I get stuck into the job.

Thanks for any comments/suggestions

Richard

kombi4x427lc · 12 January 2017 23:28

Richard,

My 2wd caravelle has a billet aluminium thermostat housing but otherwise is standard.

A new low temp thermostat 80 degree plus a reconditioned radiator have significantly lowered the operating temperature of the engine and hopefully prolonging its life.

Like yours mine has 2 AMC heads so the originals clearly dont last. Mine also has 2 new head gaskets.

Like Gerry, my steel coolant tube was rusting but from the outside. I removed the corrosion and repainted it.

My mate Lucky Phil also had that issue with a coastal housed vehicle engine he just installed in his new camper.

Seems that VW didnt use enough high temp paint on these parts. Shame as I am not sure if you can buy them new but I am sure they could be custom made?

Cheers,

Skot

On 12/01/2017 11:32 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Thanks all for the replies, I guess that is always the dilemma, hang onto 28 year old original parts or try your luck with new. Even though mine is mostly original I know the long plastic pipes are cracking on the ends and a couple of the small hoses on the engine have been replaced at some stage, one of the hoses to the thermostat split for me a year or so ago (luckily was just a minor weep and got home fine with a bit of tape over the leak). I think it's only a matter of time before more start to let go.

The few steel pipes I have looked at so far have been OK, but will look closely at all when it's apart, any that are dodgy will be replaced with SS.

The hose kit I have is from Van-café, seems to be good quality, time will be the true test. Like Gerald I think I will have a better chance with new.

I looked at the aluminium header tank also, but think I will go with the original style.

I does seem everyone has different experiences with their bus, I have been very happy with mine to date, it had only done 200k km when I got it and most parts are original and in good condition. The engine and gear box have been re-built though (10-15 years ago). So why would a good well cared for and maintained bus need and engine and GB re-built with less than 200k km on the clock?

Similar, I have a 2WD auto caravelle, again well cared for and maintained bus, with ~200k km on the clock, receipts show the heads were replaced ~'94. All servicing on that bus was from a reputable VW shop, so why would the heads let go? (even back then they were replaced with AMC heads)

One thing I have not looked into is the hose spring clamps. Some of mine have been replaced with hose clamps. I assume when the engine was taken out someone figured hose clamps were better? Not sure if they are still available anywhere?

Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Hi all,

I have most of the parts to overhaul the cooling system on the bus (complete hose kit). I have previously replaced the radiator, thermostat and heater hoses, just gearing up to do the rest.

Question though, while it's all apart, I see there are few gaskets, such as the hose adaptors on the heads, where the thermostat housing bolts on etc. Are these worth replacing, or best left alone?

While I'm at it am looking to replace the header tank and the plastic junction just forward of the air box.

The steel pipes all look in good condition (the ones I have had off in the past), so don't plan to replace these.

Unfortunately the bleeder ring main in the engine bay seems to be NLA, not sure what to do with that one just yet. (the kit from GoWesty has a lot of joints in it!)

I will leave the head gasket though, the engine has not done a lot of KM since re-build, but was done a long time ago (by the previous owner). Not sure if these tend to go with age? The system has always had G12+ coolant.

I'm in no great rush to do the work, just want to make sure I have everything I need for when I get stuck into the job.

Thanks for any comments/suggestions

Richard

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

cathrich1 · 17 January 2017 06:28

Hey Scott, I also fitted the 80C thermostat. As my cooling system has always been good (other than the short time it had the wrong radiator in), other than running a few degrees cooler I have not noticed any differences. Not going to change it out now, but don't really see the need to go away from stock.

Not sure if anyone can still source original steel pipes, but all are available in Stainless, so that's probably the way to go if you need to replace. I'll make that call once I have all the hoses out.

One fun thing I fitted to mine was a little temperature gauge to the outlet of the radiator, it's interesting to watch this, the temp gauge in the dash is stable as it's controlled by the thermostat, but this temp varies a lot with load and ambient temp. It's also easy to predict when the fan will kick in. Nice to know as I hate turning the engine off just as the fan kicks in, so now I can just turn the AC when parking, so the fan is forced on.

Richard

---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <spbconsulting@...> wrote :

Richard,

My 2wd caravelle has a billet aluminium thermostat housing but otherwise is standard.

A new low temp thermostat 80 degree plus a reconditioned radiator have significantly lowered the operating temperature of the engine and hopefully prolonging its life.

Like yours mine has 2 AMC heads so the originals clearly dont last. Mine also has 2 new head gaskets.

Like Gerry, my steel coolant tube was rusting but from the outside. I removed the corrosion and repainted it.

My mate Lucky Phil also had that issue with a coastal housed vehicle engine he just installed in his new camper.

Seems that VW didnt use enough high temp paint on these parts. Shame as I am not sure if you can buy them new but I am sure they could be custom made?

Cheers,

Skot

On 12/01/2017 11:32 PM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Thanks all for the replies, I guess that is always the dilemma, hang onto 28 year old original parts or try your luck with new. Even though mine is mostly original I know the long plastic pipes are cracking on the ends and a couple of the small hoses on the engine have been replaced at some stage, one of the hoses to the thermostat split for me a year or so ago (luckily was just a minor weep and got home fine with a bit of tape over the leak). I think it's only a matter of time before more start to let go.
The few steel pipes I have looked at so far have been OK, but will look closely at all when it's apart, any that are dodgy will be replaced with SS.

The hose kit I have is from Van-café, seems to be good quality, time will be the true test. Like Gerald I think I will have a better chance with new.
I looked at the aluminium header tank also, but think I will go with the original style.

I does seem everyone has different experiences with their bus, I have been very happy with mine to date, it had only done 200k km when I got it and most parts are original and in good condition. The engine and gear box have been re-built though (10-15 years ago). So why would a good well cared for and maintained bus need and engine and GB re-built with less than 200k km on the clock?

Similar, I have a 2WD auto caravelle, again well cared for and maintained bus, with ~200k km on the clock, receipts show the heads were replaced ~'94. All servicing on that bus was from a reputable VW shop, so why would the heads let go? (even back then they were replaced with AMC heads)

One thing I have not looked into is the hose spring clamps. Some of mine have been replaced with hose clamps. I assume when the engine was taken out someone figured hose clamps were better? Not sure if they are still available anywhere?

Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Hi all,
I have most of the parts to overhaul the cooling system on the bus (complete hose kit). I have previously replaced the radiator, thermostat and heater hoses, just gearing up to do the rest.

Question though, while it's all apart, I see there are few gaskets, such as the hose adaptors on the heads, where the thermostat housing bolts on etc. Are these worth replacing, or best left alone?
While I'm at it am looking to replace the header tank and the plastic junction just forward of the air box.
The steel pipes all look in good condition (the ones I have had off in the past), so don't plan to replace these.
Unfortunately the bleeder ring main in the engine bay seems to be NLA, not sure what to do with that one just yet. (the kit from GoWesty has a lot of joints in it!)

I will leave the head gasket though, the engine has not done a lot of KM since re-build, but was done a long time ago (by the previous owner). Not sure if these tend to go with age? The system has always had G12+ coolant.

I'm in no great rush to do the work, just want to make sure I have everything I need for when I get stuck into the job.

Thanks for any comments/suggestions

Richard

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

kombi4x427lc · 17 January 2017 07:50

Hi Richard,

Very sensible additions you have added there.

I am thinking of adding some extra senders and gauges to keep an eye on the works of the vehicle - mainly for weather like this and long drives.

They will probably scare me but it is still good to know what is happening.

Cheers,

Skot

On 17/01/2017 5:28 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Hey Scott, I also fitted the 80C thermostat. As my cooling system has always been good (other than the short time it had the wrong radiator in), other than running a few degrees cooler I have not noticed any differences. Not going to change it out now, but don't really see the need to go away from stock.

Not sure if anyone can still source original steel pipes, but all are available in Stainless, so that's probably the way to go if you need to replace. I'll make that call once I have all the hoses out.

One fun thing I fitted to mine was a little temperature gauge to the outlet of the radiator, it's interesting to watch this, the temp gauge in the dash is stable as it's controlled by the thermostat, but this temp varies a lot with load and ambient temp. It's also easy to predict when the fan will kick in. Nice to know as I hate turning the engine off just as the fan kicks in, so now I can just turn the AC when parking, so the fan is forced on.

Richard

---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <spbconsulting@...> wrote :

Richard,

My 2wd caravelle has a billet aluminium thermostat housing but otherwise is standard.

A new low temp thermostat 80 degree plus a reconditioned radiator have significantly lowered the operating temperature of the engine and hopefully prolonging its life.

Like yours mine has 2 AMC heads so the originals clearly dont last. Mine also has 2 new head gaskets.

Like Gerry, my steel coolant tube was rusting but from the outside. I removed the corrosion and repainted it.

My mate Lucky Phil also had that issue with a coastal housed vehicle engine he just installed in his new camper.

Seems that VW didnt use enough high temp paint on these parts. Shame as I am not sure if you can buy them new but I am sure they could be custom made?

Cheers,

Skot

On 12/01/2017 11:32 PM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Thanks all for the replies, I guess that is always the dilemma, hang onto 28 year old original parts or try your luck with new. Even though mine is mostly original I know the long plastic pipes are cracking on the ends and a couple of the small hoses on the engine have been replaced at some stage, one of the hoses to the thermostat split for me a year or so ago (luckily was just a minor weep and got home fine with a bit of tape over the leak). I think it's only a matter of time before more start to let go.

The few steel pipes I have looked at so far have been OK, but will look closely at all when it's apart, any that are dodgy will be replaced with SS.

The hose kit I have is from Van-café, seems to be good quality, time will be the true test. Like Gerald I think I will have a better chance with new.

I looked at the aluminium header tank also, but think I will go with the original style.

I does seem everyone has different experiences with their bus, I have been very happy with mine to date, it had only done 200k km when I got it and most parts are original and in good condition. The engine and gear box have been re-built though (10-15 years ago). So why would a good well cared for and maintained bus need and engine and GB re-built with less than 200k km on the clock?

Similar, I have a 2WD auto caravelle, again well cared for and maintained bus, with ~200k km on the clock, receipts show the heads were replaced ~'94. All servicing on that bus was from a reputable VW shop, so why would the heads let go? (even back then they were replaced with AMC heads)

One thing I have not looked into is the hose spring clamps. Some of mine have been replaced with hose clamps. I assume when the engine was taken out someone figured hose clamps were better? Not sure if they are still available anywhere?

Richard
---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Hi all,

I have most of the parts to overhaul the cooling system on the bus (complete hose kit). I have previously replaced the radiator, thermostat and heater hoses, just gearing up to do the rest.

Question though, while it's all apart, I see there are few gaskets, such as the hose adaptors on the heads, where the thermostat housing bolts on etc. Are these worth replacing, or best left alone?

While I'm at it am looking to replace the header tank and the plastic junction just forward of the air box.

The steel pipes all look in good condition (the ones I have had off in the past), so don't plan to replace these.

Unfortunately the bleeder ring main in the engine bay seems to be NLA, not sure what to do with that one just yet. (the kit from GoWesty has a lot of joints in it!)

I will leave the head gasket though, the engine has not done a lot of KM since re-build, but was done a long time ago (by the previous owner). Not sure if these tend to go with age? The system has always had G12+ coolant.

I'm in no great rush to do the work, just want to make sure I have everything I need for when I get stuck into the job.

Thanks for any comments/suggestions

Richard

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

cathrich1 · 17 January 2017 16:42

The one I have is a simple $5 one from Ebay, tiny LCD display with a cable and thermocouple on the end, I was able to thread that through the dash and stick to the outlet side of the radiator.

The stock system is all you really need, but this is just a nice to see. EG normal highway driving (say ambient ~25C), radiator outlet runs at ~40C

When I was on Frazer last year, had some hard going in deep soft sand, stuck in 2nd gear, ambient was ~35C, the outlet was running at 75C, radiator fan was on (had AC running)

In both cases the dash gauge showed normal (just shy of 12o'clock)

It is interesting how quick the radiator outlet temp climbs when you come to a stop, also when your at a stop and turn fan on (turn AC on), the temp still climbs (depending on ambient levels out ~65C)

kombi4x427lc · 18 January 2017 01:44

Very interesting Richard.

I enjoy your observations.

I remember on Moreton Island getting stuck in extremely soft sand and the second stage fan came on as it was really hard going (I should have let my tyres down more) - in hindsight my radiator was fairly clogged back then too - that wouldn't have helped at all.

I had my 2wd radiator reconditioned by Natrad and they cleaned it out and welded up a couple of small cracks.

That made a massive difference to the temp the van ran at - no matter what the traffic.

Before that it would have risen to around 3mm past the 12 O'clock mark.

Cheers,

Skot

On 18/01/2017 3:42 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

The one I have is a simple $5 one from Ebay, tiny LCD display with a cable and thermocouple on the end, I was able to thread that through the dash and stick to the outlet side of the radiator.

The stock system is all you really need, but this is just a nice to see. EG normal highway driving (say ambient ~25C), radiator outlet runs at ~40C

When I was on Frazer last year, had some hard going in deep soft sand, stuck in 2nd gear, ambient was ~35C, the outlet was running at 75C, radiator fan was on (had AC running)

In both cases the dash gauge showed normal (just shy of 12o'clock)

It is interesting how quick the radiator outlet temp climbs when you come to a stop, also when your at a stop and turn fan on (turn AC on), the temp still climbs (depending on ambient levels out ~65C)

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

cathrich1 · 18 January 2017 12:51

OK, looks like I should have gotten this part earlier!!

It's NLA, done a little hunting around for it with no luck. Would anyone know of some one with old stock of these?

Mine is sound, but the barbs look like they have suffered from some one over tightening the hose clamps during it's life.

I can get a replacement kit, but seems like a lot of new leak points added to the system!

Van Cafe: Vanagon Parts - Coolant Tube | Connectors/Junctions


			Van Cafe: Vanagon Parts - Coolant Tube \| Connectors... This is the coolant tube the goes around the top of the engine compartment. This is a factory part and fits all van 86-on including Syncro. 11/16 This...
			View on www.van-cafe.com	Preview by Yahoo

Thanks

Richard

unclekenz · 19 January 2017 01:42

ETKA parts catalogue (see pdf attachment) indicates both 025121045A and 025121045C relate to MV motor.

May need to enquire if they are expecting new supplies in near future re version 025121045A:

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/engine/petrol/watercooled-engine-wbx/cooling-system/bleed-rail-t3-2-1l-wbx.html

Also enquire here re new supplies for version O25121045C:

https://au.vwheritage.com/vw.cfm?act=vwclassicParts.search&classicSearchText=water&classicSearchType=keyword

Also MAYBE enquire re aftermarket metal version, though not stated, assume this also suits syncro:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=801015

However, let the buyer beware, before committing to enquire/purchase, read feedback file from previous buyers dealing with this seller:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=359589&highlight=ctonline+webtv

Might be prudent simply to stay with your present bleed rail. If it's still working without any real issue, leave it.

The issue of troublesome (failed) bleed rail is a topic rarely raised in the past on this forum, suggesting it's not a problem area, unlike other components of the cooling system that are regularly raised here.

Cheers.

Ken

TheSamba.com :: VW Classifieds - Vanagon Engine Coolant ...

www.thesamba.com

Vanagon Engine Coolant Bleeder Loop NEW! Price: $179.00: Here's brand new , custom manufactured, Vanagon Engine Coolant Bleeder loop assembly.

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 18 January 2017 11:51 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Cooling system overhaul

OK, looks like I should have gotten this part earlier!!

It's NLA, done a little hunting around for it with no luck. Would anyone know of some one with old stock of these?

Mine is sound, but the barbs look like they have suffered from some one over tightening the hose clamps during it's life.

I can get a replacement kit, but seems like a lot of new leak points added to the system!

Van Cafe: Vanagon Parts - Coolant Tube | Connectors/Junctions


			Van Cafe: Vanagon Parts - Coolant Tube \| Connectors... This is the coolant tube the goes around the top of the engine compartment. This is a factory part and fits all van 86-on including Syncro. 11/16 This...
			View on www.van-cafe.com	Preview by Yahoo

Thanks

Richard

philtyack · 19 January 2017 09:41

Hi

I am interested in getting a temperature gauge ,the same as you have installed

What did you look for on eBay

Cheers

Philippe

On 18 Jan 2017 00:42, "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

The one I have is a simple $5 one from Ebay, tiny LCD display with a cable and thermocouple on the end, I was able to thread that through the dash and stick to the outlet side of the radiator.
The stock system is all you really need, but this is just a nice to see. EG normal highway driving (say ambient ~25C), radiator outlet runs at ~40C
When I was on Frazer last year, had some hard going in deep soft sand, stuck in 2nd gear, ambient was ~35C, the outlet was running at 75C, radiator fan was on (had AC running)
In both cases the dash gauge showed normal (just shy of 12o'clock)

It is interesting how quick the radiator outlet temp climbs when you come to a stop, also when your at a stop and turn fan on (turn AC on), the temp still climbs (depending on ambient levels out ~65C)

gullyraker1953 · 20 January 2017 06:17

The cooling system is the Achilles Heel of the Syncro, and after two or three decades the weakest link in the chain will always let you own on the side of Big Red when you are rushing back to Birdsville after being bitten by a mulga snake.

The only problems I have had in 15 years are coolant leaks or faulty sensors. Those plastic pipes are a pain, and I found out the hard way that you have to check that the steel inserts at the end are in place before tightening the hose clamp.

Even made up some new ones. They seem to last pretty well with the recommended coolant, but rot out quickly with just water, which some uncaring owners have been known to use.

I subscribe to the mantra of replacing all the components every ten years, and my old girl is due for a cooling system overhaul again as soon as I can find a full day to do it.

Have collected most of the parts - going for SS pipes, Christmas tree and reservoir, new radiator, thermostat, belts, hoses, baffles, grommets, and heater hoses. Even have a replacement bleed rail, but will probably just carry it as a spare in case the original let's go.

The best insurance is an audible alarm for coolant loss - then if you spring a leak, you can fix it before any damage is done. A roll of 'rescue tape' and a few spare hose clamps is a must.

A couple of hose connectors can be useful if you need to bypass a failed heater core or control valve.

I carry a set of spare hoses and belts wrapped in bubble-wrap behind the cardboard panel on the tailgate.

Speaking of hose clamps, even the best worm-drive screw clamps don't seem to work as well as the original spring clamps - the screws need tightening from time to time, where as the originals expand and contract as required.

Unfortunately the sizes favoured by VW aren't readily available - and I worry that the originals might be 'losing it'. Has anyone found a source (apart from taking out a loan to but 'genuine'?)

You need a pair of hose-clamp pliers to get at some of the difficult ones. I have a couple of different types, including one on the end of a flexible cable - they make life a lot easier.

Where there is enough space, I use two clamps.

Google 'how to use radiator clamps' as it is amazing how many people do it wrong, and toast their engine.

My next purchase is a complete set of hoses. I'm tossing up between silicone and OME quality. The genuine hoses seem to last a hell of a long time except for those little suckers on the 'oil cooler' and the one behind the drivers-side cylinder head.

Has anyone used the silicone hoses?

Some people like to coat the inside of hose before connecting them, both to help the hose slip over the junction, and help it to seal.

Some use Vaseline or rubber grease as a lubricant, which makes the hose easy to remove next time.

Others use silicone sealant or various types of gasket goo or Loctite hydraulic sealant, to make a leak-proof fit that can be hard to remove at a later date.

My old mate at the Muffler and Radiator Shop just smeared a little coolant over the inside of the hose before slipping it on.

Any thoughts?

Roger

cathrich1 · 20 January 2017 12:27

This is the type I bought, picture attached of where I put it.

The plan was to move it around to different spots and see the results, but have been happy with this location so far. When I did the brakes, I threaded the cable through one of the grommets leading to the back of the head lights, removed the front grill and stuck it to the back/top/right of the radiator, plastic part (not quite at the top, maybe 1/4 of the way down). It's not directly in the coolant, so not exact temperature.

The only issue is it has no light at night time.

I do have another similar one with a digital read out that connects to power and shows voltage or temperature. Will go that way when I want a permanent gauge..

Digital LCD Thermometer fr Refrigerator Fridge Freezer Temperature -50~110°C DS | eBay


			Digital LCD Thermometer fr Refrigerator Fridge Freezer ... 1 x Digital LCD Thermometer. Temperature range: -50~ 110°C. Modeling simple, elegant, LCD panels inline connections, moisture-resistant. other ...
			View on www.ebay.com.au	Preview by Yahoo

cathrich1 · 20 January 2017 12:48

Thanks for the detailed reply Roger,

The audible alarm is a great idea, how have you hooked this up?

I have been pondering on the clamps for a while, you can get similar cheap out of china (I have ordered a few different ones to compare)

Norma brand seem to make equivalents. I have ordered a couple as well as these (see link below). The same seller has these and the original style, so I can compare a few. Your right, not cheap!

No idea on silicon hoses, I got my hose kit a while ago, and a few of the hoses are the silicon ones. As the originals seem to last, not sure why the need to change.

I would no use anything other than coolant to help slip hoses on, and only if they are too hard to get on dry. You should not need sealants, and other chemicals run the risk of damaging the hose.

NORMA TORRO CLAMPS CONSTANT TENSION 20 to 32mm HOSE CLAMPS - PACK OF 10 | eBay


			NORMA TORRO CLAMPS CONSTANT TENSION 20 t... NORMACLAMP® TORRO® CT Constant Tension Worm Drive Hose Clamps overcome "cold leaks" often experienced when installing new heater and radiator...
			View on www.ebay.com.au	Preview by Yahoo

---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gullyraker53@...> wrote :