Corrosion ... cooling system steel pipe

Just when I thought things were going swimmingly, today I removed the
large skidplate under the engine, enabling me to have a look at the
underside of the motor for the first time. Straightaway discovered
corrosion in the length of steel tubing of the cooling system that runs
forward/aft under the motor on the passenger side. Checked it out,
tapped and scraped and sure enough ... started leaking coolant straight
off! How it had held and not let go earlier, perhaps when I was away up
the country on my own the other week ... I'll never know.

Don't know if this coolant pipe is repairable or if it means looking
for a new pipe, assuming its available. Any ideas guys? Cheers

Ken
Dear Ken,
Forget what model yours is.I replaced the heavy polythene/plastic  pipes on mine about a year ago at an all up cost of $990  (360 labour;480 2 pipes plus 60 coolant clamps etc +gst.) I felt mine is worth keeping factory original as its a very late model but was tempted by a "Go Westy" kit which claims to solve the plastic pipe problem with a kit for US$49.95.
There is an informative  article by them on the coolant pipes at <www.gowesty.com/coolantpipe_repairkit.htm>
but it doesn't mention whether the steel pipes can be replaced with the later plastic ones. I get the impression they can't.My plastic pipes lasted 13 years and just had a small crack in the end which could have allowed the steel insert to come free. If you have the older steel pipes that can be removed in reasonable condition I'd feel an exhaust place  may be the best source to get something bend up if oem  steel pipes are indeed no longer available.I'd tend to think that somewhere in the world could supply you. They would probably be cheaper than the plastic ones.
Wonder if anyone has successfully used the go westy kits? In the end I wasn't willing to take the risk of being in some remote spot with no coolant and a seized engine, lamenting not going for the factory option. But perhaps I am too conservative. Am starting to drive to Perth and back next week so all should be revealed.
Good luck and don't lose heart.
Cheers
Roger
Melbourne
92 Syncro Campervan 

Ken <unclekenz@yahoo.com> wrote:
Just when I thought things were going swimmingly, today I removed the
large skidplate under the engine, enabling me to have a look at the
underside of the motor for the first time. Straightaway discovered
corrosion in the length of steel tubing of the cooling system that runs
forward/aft under the motor on the passenger side. Checked it out,
tapped and scraped and sure enough ... started leaking coolant straight
off! How it had held and not let go earlier, perhaps when I was away up
the country on my own the other week ... I'll never know.

Don't know if this coolant pipe is repairable or if it means looking
for a new pipe, assuming its available. Any ideas guys? Cheers

Ken





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Gday Roger,

Thanks for all this, very interesting ... especially the reference to
the Go Westy kit for the poly pipes ... I have those poly pipes in my
Syncro so a $US50 investment to prolong the integrity of the poly pipes
makes a lot of sense. In my case however, in the vicinity of the
passenger side cylinder head of the motor, there is still a length of
steel coolant pipe that links the radiator top tank to the poly pipes
... this is the piece of pipe that I found corrosion in and the subject
of my concern. I've since decided to investigate its condition and then
consider whether to repair or replace it, depending what I find.

This is something I suggest you all should stick your noses under the
syncro motor and check out this pipe. If it's started to "bubble" in
places, perhaps many places, then you need to do something about it
before your next trip away.

What I discovered is this. The pipe has what I assume is a heat
resistant coating of black paint ... seems pretty tough paint but over
time, allows moisture to penetrate the paint coating in spots and starts
rusting the steel underneath. Give it enough time and it rusts right
through to the coolant as it has done in one place on mine. What I first
thought was happening ... the rust was starting on the inside of the
pipe, perhaps something to do with the coolant, and rusting the steel
from inside to out. That is not the case. So in other words, this pipe
would last forever if it was given some TLC to stop the rust starting up
from the outside.

I've decided it's repairable. The thought of all the hassle of trying to
find a replacement pipe at great expense and getting it fitted convinced
me to leave it where it is and give it instead some long overdue TLC.
Should the motor need to come out some time in the future, that would be
a better time to replace the pipe.

So far I've jacked up the van on the passenger side only, removed the
wheel, removed the piece of tin-plate adjacent to the pipe and now I can
get pretty good access to the pipe from underneath and, taking the lid
off the motor, from above as well.

The pipe was rust spotted in a lot of places ... so I've chipped off all
the loose rust and sanded the pipe all over, paying close attention to
the rusty spots. Given I had holes in the pipe, about 5 litres of
coolant leaked out before it stopped flowing out, enabling me then to
clean up the pipe properly before starting treatment. I've decided to
use the POR 15 rust repair treatment process, then patch the holes with
Permatex Gas Tank & Radiator Repair epoxy resin, then maybe apply a heat
resistant protective paint over all of that. Touch wood.

Worst comes to the worst and all this fails, I'll see about a new pipe I
guess. Cheers.

Ken


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Roger Bell <bellrmit@...>
wrote:
>
> Dear Ken,
> Forget what model yours is.I replaced the heavy polythene/plastic
pipes on mine about a year ago at an all up cost of $990 (360 labour;480
2 pipes plus 60 coolant clamps etc +gst.) I felt mine is worth keeping
factory original as its a very late model but was tempted by a "Go
Westy" kit which claims to solve the plastic pipe problem with a kit for
US$49.95.
> There is an informative article by them on the coolant pipes at
<www.gowesty.com/coolantpipe_repairkit.htm>
> but it doesn't mention whether the steel pipes can be replaced with
the later plastic ones. I get the impression they can't.My plastic pipes
lasted 13 years and just had a small crack in the end which could have
allowed the steel insert to come free. If you have the older steel pipes
that can be removed in reasonable condition I'd feel an exhaust place
may be the best source to get something bend up if oem steel pipes are
indeed no longer available.I'd tend to think that somewhere in the world
could supply you. They would probably be cheaper than the plastic ones.
> Wonder if anyone has successfully used the go westy kits? In the end I
wasn't willing to take the risk of being in some remote spot with no
coolant and a seized engine, lamenting not going for the factory option.
But perhaps I am too conservative. Am starting to drive to Perth and
back next week so all should be revealed.
> Good luck and don't lose heart.
> Cheers
> Roger
> Melbourne
> 92 Syncro Campervan
>
> Ken unclekenz@... wrote: Just when I thought things were going
swimmingly, today I removed the
> large skidplate under the engine, enabling me to have a look at the
> underside of the motor for the first time. Straightaway discovered
> corrosion in the length of steel tubing of the cooling system that
runs
> forward/aft under the motor on the passenger side. Checked it out,
> tapped and scraped and sure enough ... started leaking coolant
straight
> off! How it had held and not let go earlier, perhaps when I was away
up
> the country on my own the other week ... I'll never know.
>
> Don't know if this coolant pipe is repairable or if it means looking
> for a new pipe, assuming its available. Any ideas guys? Cheers
>
> Ken
>
>
>
>
>
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