Cut out clearance / slide Windows

1
Hi there.
I am considering installing the factory's aluminium sliding window just behind my my drivers seat.

My van was a Pannel van so it requires a cut out in the Pannel.

I am thinking of using the window rubber that has the push in/lock bead I've seen them for sale at Clark rubber.

Has any one ever done such a cut out before?

My question is 'what is the required cutout / clearance in 'mm' over the bare extruded aluminium window frame?

I'm thinking that the rubber seal has depth of rubber that separates the aluminium frame edge over the cars steel body. I'm wondering if its simply that thickness and or plus a fraction more?

Any experience out there?
I'd like to cut ONCE.
Hamish.

Sent from my iPhone
2
Sorry Hamish but it won't work. The outer skin is flanged inward on a genuine window bus, on a panel it is flat. Basically you need the formed recess for the rubber and window to sit in. The good news is the quality and sizes of aftermarket windows has greatly improved since '92. When fitting aftermarket windows be sure to cut the hole nice and tight. I have seen more than one pop out on a freeway. I am looking for a set of caravelle windows shame you are so far away. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 7:44 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
Hi there.
I am considering installing the factory's aluminium sliding window just behind my my drivers seat.

My van was a Pannel van so it requires a cut out in the Pannel.

I am thinking of using the window rubber that has the push in/lock bead I've seen them for sale at Clark rubber.

Has any one ever done such a cut out before?

My question is 'what is the required cutout / clearance in 'mm' over the bare extruded aluminium window frame?

I'm thinking that the rubber seal has depth of rubber that separates the aluminium frame edge over the cars steel body. I'm wondering if its simply that thickness and or plus a fraction more?

Any experience out there?
I'd like to cut ONCE.
Hamish.

Sent from my iPhone
3
I just spoke to rudi.

He's told me to try and source a rubber with locking bead of about 30mm in thickness (not the 20 mm one).

His car is a ex Pannel van and it worked for him and been in for over 10 years.

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:02 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

Sorry Hamish but it won't work. The outer skin is flanged inward on a genuine window bus, on a panel it is flat. Basically you need the formed recess for the rubber and window to sit in. The good news is the quality and sizes of aftermarket windows has greatly improved since '92. When fitting aftermarket windows be sure to cut the hole nice and tight. I have seen more than one pop out on a freeway. I am looking for a set of caravelle windows shame you are so far away. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 7:44 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
Hi there.
I am considering installing the factory's aluminium sliding window just behind my my drivers seat.

My van was a Pannel van so it requires a cut out in the Pannel.

I am thinking of using the window rubber that has the push in/lock bead I've seen them for sale at Clark rubber.

Has any one ever done such a cut out before?

My question is 'what is the required cutout / clearance in 'mm' over the bare extruded aluminium window frame?

I'm thinking that the rubber seal has depth of rubber that separates the aluminium frame edge over the cars steel body. I'm wondering if its simply that thickness and or plus a fraction more?

Any experience out there?
I'd like to cut ONCE.
Hamish.

Sent from my iPhone
4
They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
I just spoke to rudi.

He's told me to try and source a rubber with locking bead of about 30mm in thickness (not the 20 mm one).

His car is a ex Pannel van and it worked for him and been in for over 10 years.
Sent from my iPhone
On 25/06/2013, at 9:02 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
Sorry Hamish but it won't work. The outer skin is flanged inward on a genuine window bus, on a panel it is flat. Basically you need the formed recess for the rubber and window to sit in. The good news is the quality and sizes of aftermarket windows has greatly improved since '92. When fitting aftermarket windows be sure to cut the hole nice and tight. I have seen more than one pop out on a freeway. I am looking for a set of caravelle windows shame you are so far away. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 7:44 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
Hi there. I am considering installing the factory's aluminium sliding window just behind my my drivers seat. My van was a Pannel van so it requires a cut out in the Pannel. I am thinking of using the window rubber that has the push in/lock bead I've seen them for sale at Clark rubber. Has any one ever done such a cut out before? My question is 'what is the required cutout / clearance in 'mm' over the bare extruded aluminium window frame? I'm thinking that the rubber seal has depth of rubber that separates the aluminium frame edge over the cars steel body. I'm wondering if its simply that thickness and or plus a fraction more? Any experience out there? I'd like to cut ONCE. Hamish. Sent from my iPhone
5
image.jpeg

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:19 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
I just spoke to rudi.

He's told me to try and source a rubber with locking bead of about 30mm in thickness (not the 20 mm one).

His car is a ex Pannel van and it worked for him and been in for over 10 years.
Sent from my iPhone
On 25/06/2013, at 9:02 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
Sorry Hamish but it won't work. The outer skin is flanged inward on a genuine window bus, on a panel it is flat. Basically you need the formed recess for the rubber and window to sit in. The good news is the quality and sizes of aftermarket windows has greatly improved since '92. When fitting aftermarket windows be sure to cut the hole nice and tight. I have seen more than one pop out on a freeway. I am looking for a set of caravelle windows shame you are so far away. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 7:44 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
Hi there. I am considering installing the factory's aluminium sliding window just behind my my drivers seat. My van was a Pannel van so it requires a cut out in the Pannel. I am thinking of using the window rubber that has the push in/lock bead I've seen them for sale at Clark rubber. Has any one ever done such a cut out before? My question is 'what is the required cutout / clearance in 'mm' over the bare extruded aluminium window frame? I'm thinking that the rubber seal has depth of rubber that separates the aluminium frame edge over the cars steel body. I'm wondering if its simply that thickness and or plus a fraction more? Any experience out there? I'd like to cut ONCE. Hamish. Sent from my iPhone
6
Looks great Hamish.

Very professional!

Have you rain tested them as yet?

Cheers,

Skot

On 27/06/2013 11:28 AM, HamishD wrote:
image.jpeg

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:19 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
I just spoke to rudi.

He's told me to try and source a rubber with locking bead of about 30mm in thickness (not the 20 mm one).

His car is a ex Pannel van and it worked for him and been in for over 10 years.
Sent from my iPhone
On 25/06/2013, at 9:02 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
Sorry Hamish but it won't work. The outer skin is flanged inward on a genuine window bus, on a panel it is flat. Basically you need the formed recess for the rubber and window to sit in. The good news is the quality and sizes of aftermarket windows has greatly improved since '92. When fitting aftermarket windows be sure to cut the hole nice and tight. I have seen more than one pop out on a freeway. I am looking for a set of caravelle windows shame you are so far away. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 7:44 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
Hi there. I am considering installing the factory's aluminium sliding window just behind my my drivers seat. My van was a Pannel van so it requires a cut out in the Pannel. I am thinking of using the window rubber that has the push in/lock bead I've seen them for sale at Clark rubber. Has any one ever done such a cut out before? My question is 'what is the required cutout / clearance in 'mm' over the bare extruded aluminium window frame? I'm thinking that the rubber seal has depth of rubber that separates the aluminium frame edge over the cars steel body. I'm wondering if its simply that thickness and or plus a fraction more? Any experience out there? I'd like to cut ONCE. Hamish. Sent from my iPhone

7
Good on you Hamish for not listening to my crap advise, the rubber sticks out more than the window! After looking at a caravelle I see they sit a long way in on the genuine cut out. Have you driven it yet, any wind noise? Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 27 June 2013 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows

image.jpeg

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:19 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
I just spoke to rudi.

He's told me to try and source a rubber with locking bead of about 30mm in thickness (not the 20 mm one).

His car is a ex Pannel van and it worked for him and been in for over 10 years.
Sent from my iPhone
On 25/06/2013, at 9:02 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
Sorry Hamish but it won't work. The outer skin is flanged inward on a genuine window bus, on a panel it is flat. Basically you need the formed recess for the rubber and window to sit in. The good news is the quality and sizes of aftermarket windows has greatly improved since '92. When fitting aftermarket windows be sure to cut the hole nice and tight. I have seen more than one pop out on a freeway. I am looking for a set of caravelle windows shame you are so far away. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 7:44 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
Hi there. I am considering installing the factory's aluminium sliding window just behind my my drivers seat. My van was a Pannel van so it requires a cut out in the Pannel. I am thinking of using the window rubber that has the push in/lock bead I've seen them for sale at Clark rubber. Has any one ever done such a cut out before? My question is 'what is the required cutout / clearance in 'mm' over the bare extruded aluminium window frame? I'm thinking that the rubber seal has depth of rubber that separates the aluminium frame edge over the cars steel body. I'm wondering if its simply that thickness and or plus a fraction more? Any experience out there? I'd like to cut ONCE. Hamish. Sent from my iPhone


8
Hamish, looks great and don't bother about wind noise , at least you know how fast you are going.... the paint job looks great also, done it yourself  ?? one can see that you are short of space, have you thought of moving into a garage with a house attached ? 
Hartmut



On 27/06/2013, at 11:28 AM, HamishD wrote:

<image.jpeg>

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:19 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E

9
Driven it today - nonoise

I made the hole 8 mm larger than frame. As a result it was very tight fit.

Definitely took 8 hrs from first cut to pushing last lock bead in.

Had really sore shoulders last night to.


Sent from my iPhone

On 27/06/2013, at 4:43 PM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

Good on you Hamish for not listening to my crap advise, the rubber sticks out more than the window! After looking at a caravelle I see they sit a long way in on the genuine cut out. Have you driven it yet, any wind noise? Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 27 June 2013 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows

<image.jpeg>

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:19 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
I just spoke to rudi.

He's told me to try and source a rubber with locking bead of about 30mm in thickness (not the 20 mm one).

His car is a ex Pannel van and it worked for him and been in for over 10 years.
Sent from my iPhone
On 25/06/2013, at 9:02 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:
Sorry Hamish but it won't work. The outer skin is flanged inward on a genuine window bus, on a panel it is flat. Basically you need the formed recess for the rubber and window to sit in. The good news is the quality and sizes of aftermarket windows has greatly improved since '92. When fitting aftermarket windows be sure to cut the hole nice and tight. I have seen more than one pop out on a freeway. I am looking for a set of caravelle windows shame you are so far away. Greg E

From: HamishD <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 25 June 2013 7:44 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Cut out clearance / slide Windows
 
Hi there. I am considering installing the factory's aluminium sliding window just behind my my drivers seat. My van was a Pannel van so it requires a cut out in the Pannel. I am thinking of using the window rubber that has the push in/lock bead I've seen them for sale at Clark rubber. Has any one ever done such a cut out before? My question is 'what is the required cutout / clearance in 'mm' over the bare extruded aluminium window frame? I'm thinking that the rubber seal has depth of rubber that separates the aluminium frame edge over the cars steel body. I'm wondering if its simply that thickness and or plus a fraction more? Any experience out there? I'd like to cut ONCE. Hamish. Sent from my iPhone


10
Thanks buddy!
Paint done buy my self....It's amazing what u can learn on youtube.

Unfortunately I live above a restaurant right in middle of town. No other car park available..... Thinking of covering it in or buying a hoist to allow 2 cars parking as my wife will get her licence in 6 months. Also a hoist would be handy working on my Syncro too.

 


Sent from my iPhone

On 27/06/2013, at 5:23 PM, Hartmut <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:

Hamish, looks great and don't bother about wind noise , at least you know how fast you are going.... the paint job looks great also, done it yourself  ?? one can see that you are short of space, have you thought of moving into a garage with a house attached ? 
Hartmut



On 27/06/2013, at 11:28 AM, HamishD wrote:

<image.jpeg>

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:19 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E

11
Hamish where can I find that one on utube ? 

Sent from my WalkingStick!

On 27/06/2013, at 6:54 PM, "HamishD" <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

 

Thanks buddy!
Paint done buy my self....It's amazing what u can learn on youtube.

Unfortunately I live above a restaurant right in middle of town. No other car park available..... Thinking of covering it in or buying a hoist to allow 2 cars parking as my wife will get her licence in 6 months. Also a hoist would be handy working on my Syncro too.

 


Sent from my iPhone

On 27/06/2013, at 5:23 PM, Hartmut <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:

Hamish, looks great and don't bother about wind noise , at least you know how fast you are going.... the paint job looks great also, done it yourself  ?? one can see that you are short of space, have you thought of moving into a garage with a house attached ? 
Hartmut



On 27/06/2013, at 11:28 AM, HamishD wrote:

<image.jpeg>

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:19 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E

12

Aussie made- there's a series very useful.

Sent from my iPhone

On 27/06/2013, at 9:07 PM, Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:

Hamish where can I find that one on utube ? 

Sent from my WalkingStick!

On 27/06/2013, at 6:54 PM, "HamishD" <dobson_hamish@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

 

Thanks buddy!
Paint done buy my self....It's amazing what u can learn on youtube.

Unfortunately I live above a restaurant right in middle of town. No other car park available..... Thinking of covering it in or buying a hoist to allow 2 cars parking as my wife will get her licence in 6 months. Also a hoist would be handy working on my Syncro too.

 


Sent from my iPhone

On 27/06/2013, at 5:23 PM, Hartmut <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:

Hamish, looks great and don't bother about wind noise , at least you know how fast you are going.... the paint job looks great also, done it yourself  ?? one can see that you are short of space, have you thought of moving into a garage with a house attached ? 
Hartmut



On 27/06/2013, at 11:28 AM, HamishD wrote:

<image.jpeg>

Sent from my iPhone

On 25/06/2013, at 9:19 AM, greg esposito <gregespo73@yahoo.com> wrote:

They would stick out a long way. Not the way I would go. The aftermarket windows are designed for a flat panel and remain flush. Greg E