Dash removal time!

1

Hi all,

My brake master cyl is shot and looking to replace soon. Am thinking of pulling the dash and going through the whole pedal cluster and clutch master at the same time, check the clevis's and pins etc while in there reading recent posts!

Doing some reading, the brake and clutch master's can be replaced without pulling the dash? But the pedals and bush's/pins. clevis's require the dash out to check/fix/replace?

Don't want to pull the dash for no reason as it's really only the brake master gone, but also happy to pull the lot and fix it all in one go rather than find in a months time something else needs doing.

Also in a not too old post some one had the clutch plastic hose let go. Has anyone had one remade in steel, and is it something easy to replace later (or better to replace if everything is out)


From what I have read, I will leave the booster as is, they seem to last fine.

Not sure if anything else is worth doing while in there if the dash comes out? I have recently put relay's in for the head lights and ignition. If I get keen I might open the vent box and grease the fan bearings (another common thing I see)


Thanks for any suggestions,

Richard

2
I can tell you for sure, that on a left-hand drive Vanagon ( US model ) the pedal assembly and booster and MC all come out with the dash in place.
it's tight and fiddly...but it all comes out, dash left in place.

Scott

On 8/2/2016 6:35 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Hi all,

My brake master cyl is shot and looking to replace soon. Am thinking of pulling the dash and going through the whole pedal cluster and clutch master at the same time, check the clevis's and pins etc while in there reading recent posts!

Doing some reading, the brake and clutch master's can be replaced without pulling the dash? But the pedals and bush's/pins. clevis's require the dash out to check/fix/replace?

Don't want to pull the dash for no reason as it's really only the brake master gone, but also happy to pull the lot and fix it all in one go rather than find in a months time something else needs doing.

Also in a not too old post some one had the clutch plastic hose let go. Has anyone had one remade in steel, and is it something easy to replace later (or better to replace if everything is out)


From what I have read, I will leave the booster as is, they seem to last fine.

Not sure if anything else is worth doing while in there if the dash comes out? I have recently put relay's in for the head lights and ignition. If I get keen I might open the vent box and grease the fan bearings (another common thing I see)


Thanks for any suggestions,

Richard

3
Rhd is the same, no need to remove dash. The blower motor can only be accessed after dash removal. Gregor

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 3 Aug 2016, at 6:55 AM, Scott - IMAP ScottDaniel@turbovans.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I can tell you for sure, that on a left-hand drive Vanagon ( US model ) the pedal assembly and booster and MC all come out with the dash in place.
it's tight and fiddly...but it all comes out, dash left in place.

Scott

On 8/2/2016 6:35 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Hi all,

My brake master cyl is shot and looking to replace soon. Am thinking of pulling the dash and going through the whole pedal cluster and clutch master at the same time, check the clevis's and pins etc while in there reading recent posts!

Doing some reading, the brake and clutch master's can be replaced without pulling the dash? But the pedals and bush's/pins. clevis's require the dash out to check/fix/replace?

Don't want to pull the dash for no reason as it's really only the brake master gone, but also happy to pull the lot and fix it all in one go rather than find in a months time something else needs doing.

Also in a not too old post some one had the clutch plastic hose let go. Has anyone had one remade in steel, and is it something easy to replace later (or better to replace if everything is out)


From what I have read, I will leave the booster as is, they seem to last fine.

Not sure if anything else is worth doing while in there if the dash comes out? I have recently put relay's in for the head lights and ignition. If I get keen I might open the vent box and grease the fan bearings (another common thing I see)


Thanks for any suggestions,

Richard

4
If you take your dash out I recommend replacing your blower. It's a cheap part and they do fail. I have replaced 2. Major mission.
Cheers
Paul

On Wednesday, 3 August 2016, gregespo73@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Rhd is the same, no need to remove dash. The blower motor can only be accessed after dash removal. Gregor

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 3 Aug 2016, at 6:55 AM, Scott - IMAP ScottDaniel@turbovans.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I can tell you for sure, that on a left-hand drive Vanagon ( US model ) the pedal assembly and booster and MC all come out with the dash in place.
it's tight and fiddly...but it all comes out, dash left in place.

Scott

On 8/2/2016 6:35 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Hi all,

My brake master cyl is shot and looking to replace soon. Am thinking of pulling the dash and going through the whole pedal cluster and clutch master at the same time, check the clevis's and pins etc while in there reading recent posts!

Doing some reading, the brake and clutch master's can be replaced without pulling the dash? But the pedals and bush's/pins. clevis's require the dash out to check/fix/replace?

Don't want to pull the dash for no reason as it's really only the brake master gone, but also happy to pull the lot and fix it all in one go rather than find in a months time something else needs doing.

Also in a not too old post some one had the clutch plastic hose let go. Has anyone had one remade in steel, and is it something easy to replace later (or better to replace if everything is out)


From what I have read, I will leave the booster as is, they seem to last fine.

Not sure if anything else is worth doing while in there if the dash comes out? I have recently put relay's in for the head lights and ignition. If I get keen I might open the vent box and grease the fan bearings (another common thing I see)


Thanks for any suggestions,

Richard



--
Cheers
Paul Dumais
Aerospace Engineer

5

Thanks all, much appreciated!.

I found a video of the assembly coming out of a LHD van, but it was from an auto, so had assume the clutch would make it harder.

Glad to know I can do all this without removing the dash! All the parts turned up today, now just need the courage to make a start :)


One interesting point, I saw a video where they replaced the booster with a "double booster", looked like dual vacuum diaphragms. Looked like a straight swap over, no mods needed. It did not list any details of what it was though.

I am sticking with stock brakes for now, have bought the SS brake lines though, not sure if they make much difference.

Richard

6
Some of the older BMW (Think E30) booster are bigger and fit with only a small mod shortening length of the middle thread


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016, 10:15 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Thanks all, much appreciated!.

I found a video of the assembly coming out of a LHD van, but it was from an auto, so had assume the clutch would make it harder.

Glad to know I can do all this without removing the dash! All the parts turned up today, now just need the courage to make a start :)


One interesting point, I saw a video where they replaced the booster with a "double booster", looked like dual vacuum diaphragms. Looked like a straight swap over, no mods needed. It did not list any details of what it was though.

I am sticking with stock brakes for now, have bought the SS brake lines though, not sure if they make much difference.

Richard

7

I think Brent did this recently and needed to a bit of modifying to fit the BMW one in.

I have not looked into it, but there is the option for the Audi vented disc upgrade also.

Thanks,

Richard

8

I think Brent did this recently, had some modifying to do to fit it in.

There is also the Audi disc upgrade, but that means new wheels etc.

Richard

9

Have heard that VW T4 rear disk brakes (with integrated hand brake) work (with little or no modification) on T3s with at least 15" rims, need to check first adequate clearances depending on chosen rim, be they steel or alloy. Others here may know more.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 4 August 2016 9:27 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Dash removal time!
 
 

I think Brent did this recently, had some modifying to do to fit it in.

There is also the Audi disc upgrade, but that means new wheels etc.

Richard

10
Hey Ken / Syncroz,

That t4 rear disc upgrade sounds interesting if someone can confirm.  Also would any changes at all to the braking system require engineer certificate otherwise potentially void insurance etc?

Sam
11

I have heard of it being done also, but not aware of details about a set being installed. I would assume any mod to the braking would need approvals.


Got side tracked on Saturday, so could not make a start on the Syncro until Sunday, ran out of time to get it all fixed so am now without the bus for a week!

Removing the pedal assembly was not as easy as it seemed, I ended up disassembling the entire pedal assembly inside the dash before it all could come out. I test assembled just the pedals and could see no way to get it back in, so unless there is something I am missing I will have to re-assemble the pedals inside the dash (not a fun job)

If you see the pictures, the recess in the front wall is only wide enough for the arms on the pedals and the clutch stave. The pedals themselves are much wider than the opening. There is a thin gap between the fresh air channel and the front wall of the bus, but not enough for the pedals no matter which way I twisted it (even pulling back the carpet and removing the pedal pads did not help). Even just re-assembling the pedals and trying to get it back in was not possible.


On the plus side everything looks good in there, the main reason to pull it all out was to look at the clutch clevis and pin. Neither are showing any signs of wear, so with plenty of grease should be good for a while (so will not need all the new pins and clevis's I bought!).

I even bought new bushes for the pedal pivot, but there is no play what so ever in their either. What I did notice when pulling it all apart, there seemed to be a lack of grease on the pivot pin. Seems the factory put some sort to Teflon coating on the bush's to pivot on. It is still all intact on the brake pedal bush's, but well worn on the clutch. Am hoping just greasing it all will be enough to keep it going.


Anyway, all cleaned up and ready for re-assembly including new brake and clutch master.


Richard

12

Pedal assembly and dash mostly back in now, brakes and clutch bleed and all looking good so far! Has bee na bigger job than I expected, but glad it's done, new brake and clutch master, new hose, fully cleaned out the reservoir and all pivots/pins/bushes good as new again!

Looking forward to giving it all a test run.

Richard