decoupler fault?

Hello everyone, I have had my Florian Speier decoupler fitted and running smoothly for about 4 years now.


Recently though the light won't turn off after the decoupler is disengaged. 

It will go off if I turn a sharp corner but on the straight it stays on for 5 or 6 minutes 

then it gives a clunk and you can feel it let go, which is the most concerning of all.


Has anyone experienced this or knows what the problem is?


Thanks Greg N 

Hi Greg,

You might have a leak in the vacuum lines! I had a similar problem with my front difflock, 
One of the little silicone tubes connecting the main lines with the actuator are unusually the culprits.
Do all of them if you're down there, it safes you from clumping down there again. 
Hope it's as easy as that!

Jens


Sent from my iPhone

On 07.06.2015, at 20:47, greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello everyone, I have had my Florian Speier decoupler fitted and running smoothly for about 4 years now.


Recently though the light won't turn off after the decoupler is disengaged. 

It will go off if I turn a sharp corner but on the straight it stays on for 5 or 6 minutes 

then it gives a clunk and you can feel it let go, which is the most concerning of all.


Has anyone experienced this or knows what the problem is?


Thanks Greg N 

Sorry, I meant- usually the culprits... NOT unusually! 



Sent from my iPad

On 07.06.2015, at 20:55, Jens Baufeldt jens.baufeldt@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi Greg,

You might have a leak in the vacuum lines! I had a similar problem with my front difflock, 
One of the little silicone tubes connecting the main lines with the actuator are unusually the culprits.
Do all of them if you're down there, it safes you from clumping down there again. 
Hope it's as easy as that!

Jens


Sent from my iPhone

On 07.06.2015, at 20:47, greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello everyone, I have had my Florian Speier decoupler fitted and running smoothly for about 4 years now.


Recently though the light won't turn off after the decoupler is disengaged. 

It will go off if I turn a sharp corner but on the straight it stays on for 5 or 6 minutes 

then it gives a clunk and you can feel it let go, which is the most concerning of all.


Has anyone experienced this or knows what the problem is?


Thanks Greg N 

Check all the vacuum connections and the switch for leaks first  but it sounds like a sticky actuator shaft. Undo the two long bolts and let the actuator drop back. Grab the end of the shaft with pointy nose vice grips and work it in and out whilst spraying some crc on it. Greg E

From: "greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, 7 June 2015, 20:47
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] decoupler fault?

 
Hello everyone, I have had my Florian Speier decoupler fitted and running smoothly for about 4 years now.

Recently though the light won't turn off after the decoupler is disengaged. 
It will go off if I turn a sharp corner but on the straight it stays on for 5 or 6 minutes 
then it gives a clunk and you can feel it let go, which is the most concerning of all.

Has anyone experienced this or knows what the problem is?

Thanks Greg N 


Thanks Gentleman. I will have a go at these items.
Greg N
Have you changed a tyre Greg ? One bigger than the others give those symptoms.

Mark
I change them every 5K Mark, they should be within 1mm of each other.

I have noticed when I push or pull the button it gives a swoosh sound from the switch. 

I don't think it always it that. 

 Is that sound normal? 
Sometimes the outer body of the switch will open up and leak. You can fix this with a very small hose clamp. 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 8 Jun 2015, at 12:20 am, greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I change them every 5K Mark, they should be within 1mm of each other.


I have noticed when I push or pull the button it gives a swoosh sound from the switch. 

I don't think it always it that. 

 Is that sound normal? 

I have checked the switch and it has some oil around it at the back. Is this normal?

or the signs of a leaky switch?

Greg
I can't image where oil could have come from, it might be the assembly lube? Have you checked if it is leaking?
 

From: "greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 9 June 2015, 19:20
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] decoupler fault?

 
I have checked the switch and it has some oil around it at the back. Is this normal?

or the signs of a leaky switch?

Greg


No not confirmed about the leak Greg.

Haven't been able to find a 15mm hose clamp 4.5mm wide in the usual places.

Trying Jaycar in the morning.

I did try a wire tie but it didn't work.

Someone suggested I pull it apart and replace the O ring inside.

Would you recommend this?
Hi Greg, The hose clamp on the switch didn't make any difference, so I assume the switch isn't leaking.  I will remove the actuator on the decoupler and use the spray as described, Can you describe where the long bolts can be found? Thanks Greg N
On 11/06/2015 20:50, greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Hi Greg, The hose clamp on the switch didn't make any difference, so I assume the switch isn't leaking. I will remove the actuator on the decoupler and use the spray as described, Can you describe where the long bolts can be found? Thanks Greg N

Hi,

I found a couple of documents which will help with troubleshooting difflock / decoupler issues.
Might be of interest to you.

Cheers

Hans
Thank you. Can I translate this information directly to the De Coupler?
On 11/06/2015 21:35, greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Thank you. Can I translate this information directly to the De Coupler?

Yes I would expect that to be the case.

If you do not have a rubber boot for the shaft as described in the instruction pdf , use a piece of hose pipe

On 11/06/2015 7:34 PM, "'busman.syncro' busman.syncro@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

On 11/06/2015 20:50, greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Hi Greg, The hose clamp on the switch didn't make any difference, so I assume the switch isn't leaking. I will remove the actuator on the decoupler and use the spray as described, Can you describe where the long bolts can be found? Thanks Greg N

Hi,

I found a couple of documents which will help with troubleshooting difflock / decoupler issues.
Might be of interest to you.

Cheers

Hans
Thanks for this information.  Greg
The two 8mm headed bolts that go through the plastic actuator. Remove those and pull the actuator back, you will be able to firstly inspect the sealing boot on the end of the actuator. Then slide back the protective sleeve and you will see where the thin rod of the actuator meets the rod that goes inside the box. Normally you would now drive out the 3mm roll pin that connects the pin to the rod but there is no need to do that. Just grab the very end of the rod with some pointy nose vise grips and work it in and out whilst spraying wd40 at the  point where it enters the box. Greg E
 

From: "greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 11 June 2015, 21:20
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] decoupler fault?

 
Hi Greg, The hose clamp on the switch didn't make any difference, so I assume the switch isn't leaking.  I will remove the actuator on the decoupler and use the spray as described, Can you describe where the long bolts can be found? Thanks Greg N



Hi Greg and others, I haven't got to the decoupler yet but came across the information below on the Van Cafe website. I did test the switch for leaks using the method below and it checked out ok.  Thanks again for you help.  Greg N 



Problems

Decoupler won't shift or shifts slowly: This condition is usually caused by lack of sufficient vacuum. The system has a check valve with a very fine filter in it. The valve is located by the vacuum reservoir in the middle under the van on the driver's side. Over years, the filter can clog up causing slow engagement of both the difflock and the decoupler. Remove and try to suck trough the valve. It should allow air to flow in one direction. If there is a restriction try bypassing the valve. If the decoupler now operates properly replace the valve. Another reason for low vacuum is a split rubber connector in the system, usually on the transmission vacuum solenoid. Check these for softness, splits or rot. Look for kinks or pinched lines. Test by first blowing through the line with the other end open, it should flow freely. Close the end and suck on it to test for sealing. If these are OK, check the switch on the dash, these often leak air, reducing vacuum. Test by blowing through the middle nipple with the front nipple blocked and the shaft pulled out. No air should leak out past the silver shaft. Replace switch if it leaks. Check the difflock vacuum actuator. Test by sucking on each side with a tube to test for vacuum tightness. Replace if it leaks. The tee on the large vacuum line from where the difflock system gets it's vacuum has a restriction in it that has been known to clog up if the line ever gets disconnected and sucks dust. Poke a fine wire through the tee with the engine running to clear it out.