Diff Lock Actuation

1
I pulled my rear diff lock actuator off, believing that it was cactus.  It wasn't, it operates properley.  The problem lay in the fact that it wasn't connected to the shift rod - no roll pin!
 
I have never had this apart before and I am amazed to see that the hole in the end of the shift rod is eccentric.  Can anyone confirm that this is correct?  I just can't see why it would need to be eccentric.  (It certainly costs more to manufacture this way.)
 
Les
 
2

Hi Les,

The hole in the end of the shift rod is eccentric so that the roll pin can be aligned with the diameter of the rod. I presume it is easier to drill through a circular rod this way.

Regards

Yurik

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les Harris
Sent: Friday, 27 February 2009 1:59 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Actuation

 

I pulled my rear diff lock actuator off, believing that it was cactus.  It wasn't, it operates properley.  The problem lay in the fact that it wasn't connected to the shift rod - no roll pin!

 

I have never had this apart before and I am amazed to see that the hole in the end of the shift rod is eccentric.  Can anyone confirm that this is correct?  I just can't see why it would need to be eccentric.  (It certainly costs more to manufacture this way.)

 

Les

 

3
Yurik,
 
While driving home, I was turning this over in my mind and concluded the probable reason was that, since the shift rod is not very large, drilling the roll pin hole offset would result in nit very much of the roll pin engaging.  Ergo, the sensible course is to drill the roll pin hole through the maximum diameter of the rod.  The actuator shaft has sideways movement available and this is no doubt the reason why - so that it can align itself to the eccentric hole.  And, as you say, its easier to drill through the shift rod.
 
(Must learn to think more before I rush into a post!)
 
Les
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 4:34 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Actuation

Hi Les,

The hole in the end of the shift rod is eccentric so that the roll pin can be aligned with the diameter of the rod. I presume it is easier to drill through a circular rod this way.

Regards

Yurik

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_ T3_Australia@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Les Harris
Sent: Friday, 27 February 2009 1:59 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Diff Lock Actuation

I pulled my rear diff lock actuator off, believing that it was cactus.  It wasn't, it operates properley.  The problem lay in the fact that it wasn't connected to the shift rod - no roll pin!

I have never had this apart before and I am amazed to see that the hole in the end of the shift rod is eccentric.  Can anyone confirm that this is correct?  I just can't see why it would need to be eccentric.  (It certainly costs more to manufacture this way.)

Les

4
Gday Les,

I and others have discovered to our chagrin that during the re-assembly
stage, in the event one drives (light hammer) in but inadvertently
misaligns the roll pin re-insertion with its mating recess on the
actuator rod, it's quite possible to shear off the end of the actuator
rod. Means you have to buy a whole new actuator. Also then the broken
off portion of the rod is inside the hole in the tranny case, using a
strong magnet may draw it out ok. But heh, as they say ... practice
makes perfect. Good luck.

Cheers.

Ken


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Yurik Orlowsky"
<yuriko@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Les,
>
> The hole in the end of the shift rod is eccentric so that the roll pin
can
> be aligned with the diameter of the rod. I presume it is easier to
drill
> through a circular rod this way.
>
> Regards
>
> Yurik
>
>
>
> From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Les Harris
> Sent: Friday, 27 February 2009 1:59 PM
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Diff Lock Actuation
>
>
>
> I pulled my rear diff lock actuator off, believing that it was cactus.
It
> wasn't, it operates properley. The problem lay in the fact that it
wasn't
> connected to the shift rod - no roll pin!
>
>
>
> I have never had this apart before and I am amazed to see that the
hole in
> the end of the shift rod is eccentric. Can anyone confirm that this is
> correct? I just can't see why it would need to be eccentric. (It
certainly
> costs more to manufacture this way.)
>
>
>
> Les
>
5
Ken,
 
I have already been eyeing the very restricted environment with some misgivings.  You cautionary comment on the possibility of shearing off the end of the rod just adds to them, but this prompts me to put a marker on the rod to help ensure that it is at the correct depth before I try getting the roll pin in.
 
And all this is intermediary to the first purpose of taking the actuator off, which is that the starter solenoid isn't pulling in.  The solenoid can't even be seen until the actuator and mounting bracket are removed.  No idea yet as to why but I will first apply a full 12 V to the 50 terminal on the solenoid to see if that pulls the solenoid in.
 
Les
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:23 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Diff Lock Actuation


Gday Les,

I and others have discovered to our chagrin that during the re-assembly
stage, in the event one drives (light hammer) in but inadvertently
misaligns the roll pin re-insertion with its mating recess on the
actuator rod, it's quite possible to shear off the end of the actuator
rod. Means you have to buy a whole new actuator. Also then the broken
off portion of the rod is inside the hole in the tranny case, using a
strong magnet may draw it out ok. But heh, as they say ... practice
makes perfect. Good luck.

Cheers.

Ken

.

6
Les,

Here's another tip for later when you go to reinstall the starter motor
and need to re-attach the heavy cable (eye terminal) and the lighter red
cable to the solenoid. Can't help you with the heavy cable, that one is
bad news to re-attach so you just need to exercise the gray matter how
to do it. Let me assure you, no amount of praying to the almighty will
help ... haha.

This concerns the red cable coming from the engine bay, through the
firewall and ends up as a push-on connector to the terminal on the
solenoid. This is a real pain as well to re-attach with zero room to do
it. Suggest you get rid of the push-on connector on the cable. It can
often be unreliable for continuity at the push-on connector anyway.
Permanently solder an extension length of similar size cable to that
solenoid terminal, run the cable back along the top of the starter motor
( a very snug fit against the starter motor housing is best, hold it in
place with zip ties, then terminate this extension cable at or just
through the firewall. Now fit male and female inline connectors at that
position, male to the extension piece, female to the incoming original
cable. Now you have a very easy disconnect/ reconnect of that cable
serving the solenoid and one less cable you have to battle with during
starter motor R&R. Until you've attempted this procedure, you won't
fully appreciate the value of this mod I'm suggesting.

Cheers.

Ken


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Les Harris"
<leslieharris@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> I have already been eyeing the very restricted environment with some
misgivings. You cautionary comment on the possibility of shearing off
the end of the rod just adds to them, but this prompts me to put a
marker on the rod to help ensure that it is at the correct depth before
I try getting the roll pin in.
>
> And all this is intermediary to the first purpose of taking the
actuator off, which is that the starter solenoid isn't pulling in. The
solenoid can't even be seen until the actuator and mounting bracket are
removed. No idea yet as to why but I will first apply a full 12 V to the
50 terminal on the solenoid to see if that pulls the solenoid in.
>
> Les
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:23 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Diff Lock Actuation
>
>
>
> Gday Les,
>
> I and others have discovered to our chagrin that during the
re-assembly
> stage, in the event one drives (light hammer) in but inadvertently
> misaligns the roll pin re-insertion with its mating recess on the
> actuator rod, it's quite possible to shear off the end of the actuator
> rod. Means you have to buy a whole new actuator. Also then the broken
> off portion of the rod is inside the hole in the tranny case, using a
> strong magnet may draw it out ok. But heh, as they say ... practice
> makes perfect. Good luck.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
>
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7
Ken,
 
The red cable (16) that goes through the firewall and into the engine compartment is different on mine to what is shown in Bentleys and different to anything I have seen before.  It isn't either a push-on or screw-on terminal.  It is a sleeve that fits over the + post (30) on the solenoid.  I will try to get a picture of it before I put it all back together.  This was a changeover starter/solenoid about four years ago, so it probably isn't original Syncro.  Access to the 50 slide-on terminal on the solenoid was relatively easy, to my surprise.  That wire will become the trigger wire for the relay.
 
I will keep you posted.
 
Les
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:51 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Diff Lock Actuation


Les,

Here's another tip for later when you go to reinstall the starter motor
and need to re-attach the heavy cable (eye terminal) and the lighter red
cable to the solenoid. Can't help you with the heavy cable, that one is
bad news to re-attach so you just need to exercise the gray matter how
to do it. Let me assure you, no amount of praying to the almighty will
help ... haha.

This concerns the red cable coming from the engine bay, through the
firewall and ends up as a push-on connector to the terminal on the
solenoid. This is a real pain as well to re-attach with zero room to do
it. Suggest you get rid of the push-on connector on the cable. It can
often be unreliable for continuity at the push-on connector anyway.
Permanently solder an extension length of similar size cable to that
solenoid terminal, run the cable back along the top of the starter motor
( a very snug fit against the starter motor housing is best, hold it in
place with zip ties, then terminate this extension cable at or just
through the firewall. Now fit male and female inline connectors at that
position, male to the extension piece, female to the incoming original
cable. Now you have a very easy disconnect/ reconnect of that cable
serving the solenoid and one less cable you have to battle with during
starter motor R&R. Until you've attempted this procedure, you won't
fully appreciate the value of this mod I'm suggesting.

Cheers.

Ken

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, "Les Harris"
<leslieharris@ ...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> I have already been eyeing the very restricted environment with some
misgivings. You cautionary comment on the possibility of shearing off
the end of the rod just adds to them, but this prompts me to put a
marker on the rod to help ensure that it is at the correct depth before
I try getting the roll pin in.
>
> And all this is intermediary to the first purpose of taking the
actuator off, which is that the starter solenoid isn't pulling in. The
solenoid can't even be seen until the actuator and mounting bracket are
removed. No idea yet as to why but I will first apply a full 12 V to the
50 terminal on the solenoid to see if that pulls the solenoid in.
>
> Les
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:23 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: Diff Lock Actuation
>
>
>
> Gday Les,
>
> I and others have discovered to our chagrin that during the
re-assembly
> stage, in the event one drives (light hammer) in but inadvertently
> misaligns the roll pin re-insertion with its mating recess on the
> actuator rod, it's quite possible to shear off the end of the actuator
> rod. Means you have to buy a whole new actuator. Also then the broken
> off portion of the rod is inside the hole in the tranny case, using a
> strong magnet may draw it out ok. But heh, as they say ... practice
> makes perfect. Good luck.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
>
> Recent Activity
> a.. 2New Photos
> b.. 2New Files
> Visit Your Group
> Give Back
> Yahoo! for Good
>
> Get inspired
>
> by a good cause.
>
> Y! Toolbar
> Get it Free!
>
> easy 1-click access
>
> to your groups.
>
> Yahoo! Groups
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>
> in 3 easy steps.
>
> Connect with others.
> .
>

8
Ken,
 
When I read this, I had a little shudder at the thought of the end of the actuator rod being broken off inside.  Couldn't think of anything worse, I told myself.
 
You were prescient and now I can think of something worse - when I find it has happened on my own Syncro!!!!!
 
However, it wasn't from the actuator that I took off, which had a slight bend in the rod but no broken off end, so there is some history along the line that I don't know about and I now know the actuator on it wasn't the original.  And this explains why the operation of the diff lock has always been intermittent.  It is disappointing that this wasn't picked up when the gearbox was rebuilt or when the gearbox was reinstalled.
 
Now to go through my stock of magnets and see if I have anything remotely suitable.
 
Les
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:23 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Diff Lock Actuation


Gday Les,

I and others have discovered to our chagrin that during the re-assembly
stage, in the event one drives (light hammer) in but inadvertently
misaligns the roll pin re-insertion with its mating recess on the
actuator rod, it's quite possible to shear off the end of the actuator
rod. Means you have to buy a whole new actuator. Also then the broken
off portion of the rod is inside the hole in the tranny case, using a
strong magnet may draw it out ok. But heh, as they say ... practice
makes perfect. Good luck.

Cheers.

Ken

.

9
Les,

Reading the USA syncro forum awhile back, a syncronaut with this problem
came up with the mindbending suggestion to get in there and start
drilling out the hole in the diflock shaft the broken off bit was
located in ... that was his best idea? Haha ... at times , the posts
can produce some pearlers eh.

I guess there was no issue or need to test the diflock function when the
gearbox was out .. at the hourly rates they charge, you probably agreed
anyway ... time was of the essence.

Make sure the red rubber bladder isn't perforated/split ... you'll need
a new actuator if it is.

Cheers.

Ken


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Les Harris"
<leslieharris@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> When I read this, I had a little shudder at the thought of the end of
the actuator rod being broken off inside. Couldn't think of anything
worse, I told myself.
>
> You were prescient and now I can think of something worse - when I
find it has happened on my own Syncro!!!!!
>
> However, it wasn't from the actuator that I took off, which had a
slight bend in the rod but no broken off end, so there is some history
along the line that I don't know about and I now know the actuator on it
wasn't the original. And this explains why the operation of the diff
lock has always been intermittent. It is disappointing that this wasn't
picked up when the gearbox was rebuilt or when the gearbox was
reinstalled.
>
> Now to go through my stock of magnets and see if I have anything
remotely suitable.
>
> Les
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 10:23 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Diff Lock Actuation
>
>
>
> Gday Les,
>
> I and others have discovered to our chagrin that during the
re-assembly
> stage, in the event one drives (light hammer) in but inadvertently
> misaligns the roll pin re-insertion with its mating recess on the
> actuator rod, it's quite possible to shear off the end of the actuator
> rod. Means you have to buy a whole new actuator. Also then the broken
> off portion of the rod is inside the hole in the tranny case, using a
> strong magnet may draw it out ok. But heh, as they say ... practice
> makes perfect. Good luck.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
>
> Recent Activity
> a.. 2New Photos
> b.. 2New Files
> Visit Your Group
> Give Back
> Yahoo! for Good
>
> Get inspired
>
> by a good cause.
>
> Y! Toolbar
> Get it Free!
>
> easy 1-click access
>
> to your groups.
>
> Yahoo! Groups
> Start a group
>
> in 3 easy steps.
>
> Connect with others.
> .
>