Synthetic oils were around when the syncro was new, so they should be appropriate.
I have always useed Mobil One. The only difference that I have noticed is that with Mobil One I don't get the lifter noise when first starting up.
Phill
I have always useed Mobil One. The only difference that I have noticed is that with Mobil One I don't get the lifter noise when first starting up.
Phill
> Gullyraker@aol.com wrote:
>
> G'day Ken -
> in hindsight, when I was looking to replace the
> transmission oil I probably didn't do as much research as I could have
> [i.e. on the
> forums]. I just checked the reccomendations in the manual, looked at the
>
> technical bulletins of major oil suppliers on the web, and wandered
> around
> Goulburn to see what was available and read the labels.
>
> There weren't many brands specified for 'transaxles' that met all the
> criteria.
>
> I was looking for an oil that is available in the most remote
> locations.
> When I was young and stupid I drove a T2 through the Channel country in
> flood. We crossed dozens of creeks. The routine was to walk across
> first, as we
> found that the '68 kombi didn't like water deeper than mid-thigh [about
> 65
> cm in my case]. Luckily there wasn't much current, because on one
> occasion
> the old girl actually floated briefly. We also learnt to close the
> fresh-air
> vents on the dash if we didn't want to sink the ship.
>
> On reaching Broken Hill we spent a day cleaning mud from under the
> vehicle. It was baked on to the engine and had to be chipped off with a
> slag-hammer. Wheel bearings were cleaned and repacked with grease.
> Abrasive grit was
> cleaned out of the brakes. Suspension, steering and handbrake linkages
> were
> checked and lubricated. As a precaution, we drained and replaced the
> transmission oil.
>
> As most of the group probably know, when hot machinery makes contact
> with
> cold water it takes a sudden intake of breath, just as we do. That's why
>
> the Syncro is fitted with a diff-breather pipe or 'snorkel'.
> Unfortunately my
> old T2 didn't have one - although we fitted one later.
>
> The upshot was that I learnt to use lubricants that are widely
> available.
> I steer away from the oil company's own brands - its no good trying to
> buy
> Shell if the only servo in town is a BP. Castrol has outlets everywhere.
>
> Something else that I noticed when using synthetic oils in old
> machinery
> is that it soon finds any weaknesses in the ancient oil seals.
>
> Having said that, I'll probably still use it in my freshly rebuilt
> transaxle. Adrian Muller recommended it.
>
> You also asked if I will be using synthetic in the new engine. At this
>
> stage I'm thinking I'll stick to good old Valvoline 20/50 "classic" as
> it has
> the SG rating recommended for older vehicles. As I understand it the
> neoprene oil seals fitted to older vehicles have trouble coping with
> some of the
> newer specifications. I spent over $200 on the syncro-specific
> crankshaft
> pulley oil seal to keep the river out of the oil, so I wouldn't want to
> see the
> oil get into the river.
>
> It is possible that all oil-seals now sold are compatible with
> synthetic
> oils, and we might be able to use it after a rebuild. My question is, is
> it
> really necessary? Synthetic oils are expensive, and probably
> un-necessary
> in low-tech, low-revving non-turbo engines without overhead cams. I've
> only
> rebuilt three MV engines so far, so I can't claim to be an expert, but I
>
> haven't seen one yet with appreciable wear to the bottom end, and
> cylinder wear
> is negligible - Steve Muller told me that the barrells rarely need
> replacement. Most of the problems with the MV are caused by other issues
> than
> lubrication.
>
> I can see a whole new string on engine oil coming ...
>
>
> Cheers, Roger [Beetle Bayley].
>