Graham and ALL,
That's ok at home with the van garaged or just a day trip but when one goes camping for days/weeks on end, that breaker switch is back on for the duration, in which case the van needs to be fully functioning and independent with adequate recharging equipment while away from 240vac., i.e., you need solar (if the sun is shining and park in the sun) or huge camping battery with smart charging setup on the alternator circuit (park in the shade but don't stay in one place for too long).
I think anyone with a reasonably equipped campervan knows only too well that on an extended trip away from 240vac, then many of us have to conserve every scrap of electrical energy we can, especially if not driving every day. I don't have room for an even bigger camping battery. There is no room for a generator. No way would I tow a trailer for extra gear. In my case I try to limit electrical usage so as to make what I have available to the biggest consumer ... the 12vdc fridge. I'm not about to replace my fridge. The 70w solar panel helps a bit, I should go to say 200w. This means of a night time, I'll even use a head-torch for lighting or use the cabin lights running off the starter battery instead. To help avoid draining the starter battery, I just installed instead an AGM starting battery (coming to all of you soon in modern cars, especially European) so this one has a higher cranking and reserve capacity and faster and deeper charge capability (using the right equipment) and is fully sealed, no maintenance, no leakage, ideal for in-cabin confined space. Also it is compatible then with my AGM deep cycle camping battery so my smart charger automatically charges bulk/absorption/float stages to both at the same time for optimum condition/longevity.
Now all that is ok, would be even better if I throw enough cash at it, but meanwhile my experience shows that my van is experiencing flattening batteries just parked at home, then no wonder I'm having trouble supplying enough energy for the camper equipment after a few days camping, the circuit short is eating up my batteries.
If need be, I also can isolate my starting battery. But fixing the electrical short problem is definitely my first choice.
That is going to be the interesting bit. I feel a field day coming on. You fellas can come find the leak ok ... haha
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: g.adams@bigpond.net.au
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 09:59:29 +1100
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: [Syncro] Electrical Shorting Problem - Help Needed. PLEASE!
Browse profiles for free! View photos of singles in your area.
That's ok at home with the van garaged or just a day trip but when one goes camping for days/weeks on end, that breaker switch is back on for the duration, in which case the van needs to be fully functioning and independent with adequate recharging equipment while away from 240vac., i.e., you need solar (if the sun is shining and park in the sun) or huge camping battery with smart charging setup on the alternator circuit (park in the shade but don't stay in one place for too long).
I think anyone with a reasonably equipped campervan knows only too well that on an extended trip away from 240vac, then many of us have to conserve every scrap of electrical energy we can, especially if not driving every day. I don't have room for an even bigger camping battery. There is no room for a generator. No way would I tow a trailer for extra gear. In my case I try to limit electrical usage so as to make what I have available to the biggest consumer ... the 12vdc fridge. I'm not about to replace my fridge. The 70w solar panel helps a bit, I should go to say 200w. This means of a night time, I'll even use a head-torch for lighting or use the cabin lights running off the starter battery instead. To help avoid draining the starter battery, I just installed instead an AGM starting battery (coming to all of you soon in modern cars, especially European) so this one has a higher cranking and reserve capacity and faster and deeper charge capability (using the right equipment) and is fully sealed, no maintenance, no leakage, ideal for in-cabin confined space. Also it is compatible then with my AGM deep cycle camping battery so my smart charger automatically charges bulk/absorption/float stages to both at the same time for optimum condition/longevity.
Now all that is ok, would be even better if I throw enough cash at it, but meanwhile my experience shows that my van is experiencing flattening batteries just parked at home, then no wonder I'm having trouble supplying enough energy for the camper equipment after a few days camping, the circuit short is eating up my batteries.
If need be, I also can isolate my starting battery. But fixing the electrical short problem is definitely my first choice.
That is going to be the interesting bit. I feel a field day coming on. You fellas can come find the leak ok ... haha
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: g.adams@bigpond.net.au
Date: Thu, 11 Feb 2010 09:59:29 +1100
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: [Syncro] Electrical Shorting Problem - Help Needed. PLEASE!
Andy
I also hadyour problem.
After years of using my Syncro for work everyday with no problem,I then retired and my Syncro / battery decided to do likewise.
Being a practical person but not over technical I spent several days chasing the elusive before going to an auto electrician in despair.
He said he wasn't interested and would only do what I did and charge me a fortune.
Answer...Fit one new battery (optional) and a kill switch (the big red ones in which you can isolate the battery completely and then remove the key). I fitted mine near drivers lower left seat belt mount next to the battery.
Result....Syncro always starts.
Insurance cost is lower
The dash clock is right at least twice a day.
If you ever roll or have an accident you can kill power immediately. (Ex rally experience).
Good luck Graham
----- Original Message -----From: BenT SyncroSent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 9:13 AMSubject: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Re: [Syncro] Electrical Shorting Problem - Help Needed. PLEASE!Andy,As Jim Davis (worldwide Syncro forum) pointed out, the fuse for the powerlocks are an add-on module on top of the main fuse block. At least that is how it's installed on the LHD.Yours truly has gained some notoriety in his part of the world for driving his Syncros often enough. Some get driven maybe twice a year. Rarely do the vehicle drain their battery in less than 5-6 months of just sitting. Even then, there is still enough to spin the starter once or twice.Compare that to newer vehicles. My brother's Ferrari sucks it's battery completely flat after about 14 days. On-all-the-time GPS locating system makes quick work of destroying the US$755 battery unless you use a tender. As Phill has pointed, there is little if any draw on components on T3's besides possibly the factory radio and clock.I don't know if this helps as I did not perform the conversion myself. My 2wd T3 with a 2.2 EJT Subaru engine conversion does drain it's battery if not driven or started every 6-8 weeks. It might be coincidental as the previous owner also installed a host of other aftermarket parts. It might be worth throwing the question to the Subaru conversion in Yahoogroups if you are unable to track down the parasitic battery drain.--
BenT
Browse profiles for free! View photos of singles in your area.