Fuel tank removal

21
Great photos Richard.

Interesting to see what it looks like in there with the tank out in such detail.

Yours looks very clean with no sign of rust.

Keep the photos coming - I am enjoying your work.

Cheers,

Skot

On 8/09/2016 12:48 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Well there you go!! It all looks OK in there despite I do the odd creek crossing/mud wading. Does the grommet incorporate a drain tube of some sort? I will make my own unless they are available new?


Progress is still slow but getting there. Just a few pics. Cleaned up and covered the original earth leads, and will double up on each (two leads on the GB, one to each head).Also doubling up on the cable from the alternator to the starter.

Going to trial some rubber panels and see if they help keep dirt/mud/sand out

A couple of the nut serts at the back holding the muffler cover had come loose, so have replaced them,

Was interesting to see the kinks in the fuel filler, also getting a new hose.

Photo of the failed grommet in the tank breather/roll over valve. Seemed odd all the other rubber and hoses are in good condition. Even the failed grommet is fine externally, only the inside fell to pieces.

Currently working on fitting the rear heater and decoupler

Richard





---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gregespo73@...> wrote :

There is a grommet for the bottom and sealant should be applied to the flange. Gregor

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 7 Sep 2016, at 12:21 AM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Was looking at the engine today, I notice the bell housing has a breather at the top, but it is also open at the bottom. Is that correct, or should the syncro be sealed at the bottom?

Richard


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
22

Thanks Skot, yes overall it's very clean and rust free. After thorough cleaning sprayed inside the chassis rails with cold gal paint and re-painting as I go. Am using cold gal instead of Tectol (body wax) so any dirt getting in there is easier to flush out..

Am trying to remember to take photo's, and will send through as I can. Am modifying a few things, hopefully to make things easier to work on in future (thanks for the clutch slave tip!)

Oh, and the clutch arm the slave cyl pushes on came off the shaft fine!! Will put back on with never seize to be sure for next time.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <spbconsulting@...> wrote :

Great photos Richard.

Interesting to see what it looks like in there with the tank out in such detail.

Yours looks very clean with no sign of rust.

Keep the photos coming - I am enjoying your work.

Cheers,

Skot

On 8/09/2016 12:48 AM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Well there you go!! It all looks OK in there despite I do the odd creek crossing/mud wading. Does the grommet incorporate a drain tube of some sort? I will make my own unless they are available new?


Progress is still slow but getting there. Just a few pics. Cleaned up and covered the original earth leads, and will double up on each (two leads on the GB, one to each head).Also doubling up on the cable from the alternator to the starter.

Going to trial some rubber panels and see if they help keep dirt/mud/sand out

A couple of the nut serts at the back holding the muffler cover had come loose, so have replaced them,

Was interesting to see the kinks in the fuel filler, also getting a new hose.

Photo of the failed grommet in the tank breather/roll over valve. Seemed odd all the other rubber and hoses are in good condition. Even the failed grommet is fine externally, only the inside fell to pieces.

Currently working on fitting the rear heater and decoupler

Richard





---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gregespo73@...> wrote :

There is a grommet for the bottom and sealant should be applied to the flange. Gregor 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 7 Sep 2016, at 12:21 AM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Was looking at the engine today, I notice the bell housing has a breather at the top, but it is also open at the bottom. Is that correct, or should the syncro be sealed at the bottom?

Richard


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
23

No theory Greg, have read a lot of posts on bad earth's, mine all are fine, but figure doubling up means less chance of that causing an issue :)

Once cleaned and re-installed I also spray over the top with cold gal paint.

Some I have made myself, but these two (one from the GB, one from the head) I have bought from Van café. (the photo is the originals, I put heat shrink over them) The extra cable from the alternator to the starter I also bought from there.

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <greg.navarro61@...> wrote :


Hi Richard thanks for your photos very interesting.  Can you explain the theory behind doubling the earth leads, and can you buy these leads or did you make them your self?  Greg N


24
Front leak that ends up as drips coming out around the lower heater outlet has me perplexed. I've run a bead of silcone across the lower lip of the windscreen . Nothing changed . Anyone know this one and the remedy ?
Wet winter in Perth ! Can stick a picture up if that helps.

Mark
25
Hi Mark,

Possible windscreen seal leak?

What about leaks around the squirter jets?

Has it been painted to the front recently?

Cheers,

Skot

On 9/09/2016 9:41 PM, m.mullet@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Front leak that ends up as drips coming out around the lower heater outlet has me perplexed. I've run a bead of silcone across the lower lip of the windscreen . Nothing changed . Anyone know this one and the remedy ?
Wet winter in Perth ! Can stick a picture up if that helps.

Mark


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
26
Hey Mark Great pics you were half way here ?
Do I remember you having a wind noise that you tracked to the fiberglass pop top base ?
Might be leaking from up higher ? traking around the ws rubber
Are there a couple of blocks up there that hold the spring bar along the front trough base for pop top.
Its not coolant from the heater ?
Best Regards Peter

On Fri, Sep 9, 2016 at 9:41 PM, m.mullet@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Front leak that ends up as drips coming out around the lower heater outlet has me perplexed. I've run a bead of silcone across the lower lip of the windscreen . Nothing changed . Anyone know this one and the remedy ?
Wet winter in Perth ! Can stick a picture up if that helps.

Mark


27
Hey Pete,

Yeah nearly made it to Qld !  Fantastic trip across the desert. Wildflowers the whole way.
Nothing beats a good bush camp , glass of wine and a fire. And a Syncro that's going well.

Thanks for the thoughts on the leaks. Not heater leaks as it only happens after a solid downpour.
I'll silicone up the sides of the windscreen and check the wiper sprays. Heater fan has died probably as a result of water ingress. 
Hard to imagine water could make it all the way down from the pop top but worth a thought. Probably won't rain for another 8 months now in Perth and I'll forget all about it.

Mark



28
Hi Richard, my Doka has the heater as from factory but i have been quiet as it pours down and all is wet... i can give you detailed measurements once it
Fines up somewhat. Please let us know if it can wait til ythe sun comes out Hart


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date:14/09/2016 9:01 AM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal

 

Richard,

Gerry has the rear cabin heater in his caravelle syncro.

He may be able to show you where it all goes by his van rear seat area?

I dont have one in either of my caravelles (syncro and 2wd) so I am no help.

Sorry to dob you in Gerry.

Cheers,

Skot

On 13/09/2016 11:53 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

I think I have mostly figured the rear heater install. On the 2WD the heater sits in the middle of the rear seat. But with the Syncro the fuel tank sits hard against floor, so the hoses cannot run where they do on the 2WD. I think I can get it all to work sitting to the RHS under the seat.

Pic 2197 is where the heater sits on a 2WD, the two rings on the left of the pic is where the hoses would run through on a 2WD. Pic 2194 shows an extra bit of bracing that the tank sits hard against, so the hoses cannot go there. Looks like I can run the hoses to the right ((just above chassis rail), and inside the bus pic 2198, 2199.

I am also looking to fit an electric solenoid control, so can turn it on/off from the dash.


Anyway, I have a question is anyone can help with a couple of pictures. Just to make sure I have room for the hoses, could some one send a picture 2193 (looking in over right rear tire), so I can see the clearance around the tank there?

Not sure if it's possible, but one looking up from underneath there also (essentially at front of GB, just inside of the RH swing arm), so I can see the room there also.


I should have room, but not easy to just throw the tank up and have a look. I also don't want to instal it all then find it fouls with the tank


Thanks

Richard


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

29

Wow, in a Doka! So it sits in the lock up chest?

Thanks for the offer Hartmut, I spent a few hours looking for photo's, finally found a few, this should be all I need.

This one shows the Syncro hoses simply exited in a different location:

http://westyventures.com/images/syncro16project%20028.jpg



And there was a cover for the hoses

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/medium/6596645.jpg



And where the hoses come out underneath

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/qq310/mzwack/Sycnro%20fuel%20tank%20removal/IMG_0752.jpg



So the heater is still in the middle of the seat. Looking over this tonight I think I will stick with my original plan and put the heater on the RHS under the seat. It saves having hoses run across under the seat, but also gives easier access to the under seat storage area (the RHS is hardest to get to when all the seats are in)

I think I will also have the hoses exit a little lower than in these photo's, then the heater cover will also cover the hoses.

The good thing though is there is room in that spot for the hoses!


I have enough fittings now to connect it all up, so time to drill some holes!


Richard

30
Hi Richard 
Sorry for the delay I have located the go westy kit 
If your still interested happy to let you have them whatever the go westy number only in aud (sure I bought them when aud was at parity or slightly better) and have my old plastic pipes in reasonable condition if you are coming past Duranbah
Colin

Inline imageInline image



On Thursday, September 1, 2016, 12:21 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Thanks Samuel. I am ordering one of those kits, but it doesn't fix the issue of the ends cracking, I would have thought an extension of some sort would have been better and cut the bad end off.

As long as it keeps me going until I get SS ones I guess.

Anyone made their own pipes in SS locally (EG a muffler shop)? Wonder how it compares on price?


Thanks on the oil, I always ran a Shell Synthetic in my T2 and type 3's, but that also is hard to get. I might hunt around what the local repco/autobarn/supercheap stock and do some research. If they have nothing suitable, I can just get the oil my mechanic uses


Anyway, tank is out (finally!!), what a job. I hope this is a once in a life time experience, and not a regular challenge!


Richard

31

Thanks Colin, send me your phone number and I will give you a call.

Richard

32

GB ready to go back in, new input shaft seal, new throw out bearing. Decided not to install the clutch arm bushes or starter bush as there was hardly any wear, so just a good grease. New clutch slave (I see the cup is plastic on the new one). Starter re-built (bearings, brushes and solenoid contacts)

And the decoupler fitted (and tested!)

Going through the motor now.

Richard

33
image1.JPG
image2.JPG
Hi Richard. Probably too late but here are pics of genuine Caravelle rear heater hoses. 
On 17 Sep 2016, at 1:48 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

GB ready to go back in, new input shaft seal, new throw out bearing. Decided not to install the clutch arm bushes or starter bush as there was hardly any wear, so just a good grease. New clutch slave (I see the cup is plastic on the new one). Starter re-built (bearings, brushes and solenoid contacts)

And the decoupler fitted (and tested!)

Going through the motor now.

Richard

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34

Hi all,

Engine mostly cleaned up and ready to re-install. Have found a few wires looking a little ragged, so tidying that up now (seems every time I think I'm done, I find a few more things to fix up!


Anyone know what should be in the hole (above and to left of crank shaft)??

Looking at the manual it mentions a crank sensor (TDC), but I can't figure if that is only for earlier models? I assume if one should be on the Syncro I'd be having running issues? So should the hole just be plugged?

Seems I have been very lucky with my off road jaunts given this is open, as is the bottom plug missing and no sealer between the engine and GB! Given that, inside was very clean.

Thanks

Richard

35

Thank you Greg, that is great! Photo's definitely help.

I Have run my hoses a little lower, worked in better with where I have put the heater. Interesting to note the grommets where the hoses run though the body are different on the Syncro compared to a 2WD.

Richard

36

Hi all,

Too many late nights, but the engine is almost ready to fill with fluids and check for leaks.

Seems like a never ending job, and taken a few weeks longer than originally anticipated. That said I have done many little things not expected in the beginning.

Just a few pictures for your interest (just some random ones), comments below


The fuel tank sender, mine was all nice and clean, inside and out, even the seal (outside) looked fine, so was thinking why upset the inside seal if it's all good and firmly mounted. In the end I figured I had the seals, best to put them in. Glad I did. The outside seal was fine and still in good condition, the inside one however was falling apart, and some rust just starting between the inside seal and the inner edge of the plate with the studs! I was quite surprised as everything else looked great.


Notch in the bash plate, just enough to drain the GB oil without removing the sub frame. It also give access to a removable wading plug I put in the bell housing. I figured with it all sealed up, you have no way of knowing if a seal is on the way out. now I have a removable plug to check :)


Anyone who used the fuel line that came with the desert fox fuel tank, keep an eye on the hose! I have replaced mine already. Mostly as I had the tank out, but the large hose was already showing signs of aging!


Anyone with power steering, check the power steering lines where the RH hand brake cable runs over it, it rubs at this spot (have read of this rubbing through for some people). I have put some protective tape over it.


Tank straps, I found some dirt build up in there, so added a few extra drain holes. Luckily no rust at all on mine.


Even fitted a new fill hose. Not a fun job, not nowhere near as hard as putting the fuel tank back in!!


GoWesty coolant pipe savers installed (thanks Colin!)


New seals on the flywheel. Clutch all looked good on the pressure plate and friction plate, but there is some wear showing on the fingers (where the throw out bearing contacts). New throw out bearing and pilot bearing (with seal) in


Alternator and water pump protectors fitted. One nut (under water pump) I fitted an extended length nut, made getting it tight much easier!


All new fuel lines on the engine also. They actually looked quite good, so must have been replaced at some stage in it's life.


New hoses run on the tank. Worth noting, not only were the seal shot on the breather check valves, one of the check valves was stuck closed, the other stuck open!!


New charcoal canister. factory VW, but made in china, so I will rebuild my old one at some stage. These are designed to not need an inlet pipe, I adapted the inlet down to a hose size, and ran the inlet back into the engine bay. I was thinking of connecting it into the air cleaner, but decided in the end to let it suck air through a separate inline filter. Will be easy to monitor how it goes, but a lot better than sucking air from the wheel well.


Managed to get some OK shots inside the tank, this one is the screen


Heater installed!! Have yet to wire it all up electrically, so that will be a future job. Cables are run to the dash so far.


Hole in push rod covers to drain coolant


Richard



37
Richard got the prop out and found the front uni seized. Hope i solved the problem once i have installed my spare.
Hart



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date:29/09/2016 12:24 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal

 

Richard, you are a legend ! It's that simple. Just as I'm preparing the ute for Old Bar kombi count it starts to send me a whining noise from the gb. Also when on deceleration it starts to shudder. ...
On w/end will drive down anyway.....just wish me luck please...Hart



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date:29/09/2016 12:03 AM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [17 Attachments]

 

Hi all,

Too many late nights, but the engine is almost ready to fill with fluids and check for leaks.

Seems like a never ending job, and taken a few weeks longer than originally anticipated. That said I have done many little things not expected in the beginning.

Just a few pictures for your interest (just some random ones), comments below


The fuel tank sender, mine was all nice and clean, inside and out, even the seal (outside) looked fine, so was thinking why upset the inside seal if it's all good and firmly mounted. In the end I figured I had the seals, best to put them in. Glad I did. The outside seal was fine and still in good condition, the inside one however was falling apart, and some rust just starting between the inside seal and the inner edge of the plate with the studs! I was quite surprised as everything else looked great.


Notch in the bash plate, just enough to drain the GB oil without removing the sub frame. It also give access to a removable wading plug I put in the bell housing. I figured with it all sealed up, you have no way of knowing if a seal is on the way out. now I have a removable plug to check :)


Anyone who used the fuel line that came with the desert fox fuel tank, keep an eye on the hose! I have replaced mine already. Mostly as I had the tank out, but the large hose was already showing signs of aging!


Anyone with power steering, check the power steering lines where the RH hand brake cable runs over it, it rubs at this spot (have read of this rubbing through for some people). I have put some protective tape over it.


Tank straps, I found some dirt build up in there, so added a few extra drain holes. Luckily no rust at all on mine.


Even fitted a new fill hose. Not a fun job, not nowhere near as hard as putting the fuel tank back in!!


GoWesty coolant pipe savers installed (thanks Colin!)


New seals on the flywheel. Clutch all looked good on the pressure plate and friction plate, but there is some wear showing on the fingers (where the throw out bearing contacts). New throw out bearing and pilot bearing (with seal) in


Alternator and water pump protectors fitted. One nut (under water pump) I fitted an extended length nut, made getting it tight much easier!


All new fuel lines on the engine also. They actually looked quite good, so must have been replaced at some stage in it's life.


New hoses run on the tank. Worth noting, not only were the seal shot on the breather check valves, one of the check valves was stuck closed, the other stuck open!!


New charcoal canister. factory VW, but made in china, so I will rebuild my old one at some stage. These are designed to not need an inlet pipe, I adapted the inlet down to a hose size, and ran the inlet back into the engine bay. I was thinking of connecting it into the air cleaner, but decided in the end to let it suck air through a separate inline filter. Will be easy to monitor how it goes, but a lot better than sucking air from the wheel well.


Managed to get some OK shots inside the tank, this one is the screen


Heater installed!! Have yet to wire it all up electrically, so that will be a future job. Cables are run to the dash so far.


Hole in push rod covers to drain coolant


Richard



38
Good work Hart.

Go for a drive with the main prop shaft out.

See if the noise is gone.

Then at least you know if you are on the right track.

Bets of luck and see you Saturday arvo at Old Bar.

Cheers,

Skot

On 29/09/2016 1:14 PM, Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Richard got the prop out and found the front uni seized. Hope i solved the problem once i have installed my spare.
Hart



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date:29/09/2016 12:24 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal

Richard, you are a legend ! It's that simple. Just as I'm preparing the ute for Old Bar kombi count it starts to send me a whining noise from the gb. Also when on deceleration it starts to shudder. ...
On w/end will drive down anyway.....just wish me luck please...Hart



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date:29/09/2016 12:03 AM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [17 Attachments]

Hi all,

Too many late nights, but the engine is almost ready to fill with fluids and check for leaks.

Seems like a never ending job, and taken a few weeks longer than originally anticipated. That said I have done many little things not expected in the beginning.

Just a few pictures for your interest (just some random ones), comments below


The fuel tank sender, mine was all nice and clean, inside and out, even the seal (outside) looked fine, so was thinking why upset the inside seal if it's all good and firmly mounted. In the end I figured I had the seals, best to put them in. Glad I did. The outside seal was fine and still in good condition, the inside one however was falling apart, and some rust just starting between the inside seal and the inner edge of the plate with the studs! I was quite surprised as everything else looked great.


Notch in the bash plate, just enough to drain the GB oil without removing the sub frame. It also give access to a removable wading plug I put in the bell housing. I figured with it all sealed up, you have no way of knowing if a seal is on the way out. now I have a removable plug to check :)


Anyone who used the fuel line that came with the desert fox fuel tank, keep an eye on the hose! I have replaced mine already. Mostly as I had the tank out, but the large hose was already showing signs of aging!


Anyone with power steering, check the power steering lines where the RH hand brake cable runs over it, it rubs at this spot (have read of this rubbing through for some people). I have put some protective tape over it.


Tank straps, I found some dirt build up in there, so added a few extra drain holes. Luckily no rust at all on mine.


Even fitted a new fill hose. Not a fun job, not nowhere near as hard as putting the fuel tank back in!!


GoWesty coolant pipe savers installed (thanks Colin!)


New seals on the flywheel. Clutch all looked good on the pressure plate and friction plate, but there is some wear showing on the fingers (where the throw out bearing contacts). New throw out bearing and pilot bearing (with seal) in


Alternator and water pump protectors fitted. One nut (under water pump) I fitted an extended length nut, made getting it tight much easier!


All new fuel lines on the engine also. They actually looked quite good, so must have been replaced at some stage in it's life.


New hoses run on the tank. Worth noting, not only were the seal shot on the breather check valves, one of the check valves was stuck closed, the other stuck open!!


New charcoal canister. factory VW, but made in china, so I will rebuild my old one at some stage. These are designed to not need an inlet pipe, I adapted the inlet down to a hose size, and ran the inlet back into the engine bay. I was thinking of connecting it into the air cleaner, but decided in the end to let it suck air through a separate inline filter. Will be easy to monitor how it goes, but a lot better than sucking air from the wheel well.


Managed to get some OK shots inside the tank, this one is the screen


Heater installed!! Have yet to wire it all up electrically, so that will be a future job. Cables are run to the dash so far.


Hole in push rod covers to drain coolant


Richard




--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
39
Awesome pictorial Richard.

I have always been scared to do the fuel tank removal and check.

Everyone says its a cow of a job.

Mine has been out once already by the previous Owner but that was 20 years ago so maybe due for another inspection?

Cheers,

Skot

On 29/09/2016 12:03 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Hi all,

Too many late nights, but the engine is almost ready to fill with fluids and check for leaks.

Seems like a never ending job, and taken a few weeks longer than originally anticipated. That said I have done many little things not expected in the beginning.

Just a few pictures for your interest (just some random ones), comments below


The fuel tank sender, mine was all nice and clean, inside and out, even the seal (outside) looked fine, so was thinking why upset the inside seal if it's all good and firmly mounted. In the end I figured I had the seals, best to put them in. Glad I did. The outside seal was fine and still in good condition, the inside one however was falling apart, and some rust just starting between the inside seal and the inner edge of the plate with the studs! I was quite surprised as everything else looked great.


Notch in the bash plate, just enough to drain the GB oil without removing the sub frame. It also give access to a removable wading plug I put in the bell housing. I figured with it all sealed up, you have no way of knowing if a seal is on the way out. now I have a removable plug to check :)


Anyone who used the fuel line that came with the desert fox fuel tank, keep an eye on the hose! I have replaced mine already. Mostly as I had the tank out, but the large hose was already showing signs of aging!


Anyone with power steering, check the power steering lines where the RH hand brake cable runs over it, it rubs at this spot (have read of this rubbing through for some people). I have put some protective tape over it.


Tank straps, I found some dirt build up in there, so added a few extra drain holes. Luckily no rust at all on mine.


Even fitted a new fill hose. Not a fun job, not nowhere near as hard as putting the fuel tank back in!!


GoWesty coolant pipe savers installed (thanks Colin!)


New seals on the flywheel. Clutch all looked good on the pressure plate and friction plate, but there is some wear showing on the fingers (where the throw out bearing contacts). New throw out bearing and pilot bearing (with seal) in


Alternator and water pump protectors fitted. One nut (under water pump) I fitted an extended length nut, made getting it tight much easier!


All new fuel lines on the engine also. They actually looked quite good, so must have been replaced at some stage in it's life.


New hoses run on the tank. Worth noting, not only were the seal shot on the breather check valves, one of the check valves was stuck closed, the other stuck open!!


New charcoal canister. factory VW, but made in china, so I will rebuild my old one at some stage. These are designed to not need an inlet pipe, I adapted the inlet down to a hose size, and ran the inlet back into the engine bay. I was thinking of connecting it into the air cleaner, but decided in the end to let it suck air through a separate inline filter. Will be easy to monitor how it goes, but a lot better than sucking air from the wheel well.


Managed to get some OK shots inside the tank, this one is the screen


Heater installed!! Have yet to wire it all up electrically, so that will be a future job. Cables are run to the dash so far.


Hole in push rod covers to drain coolant


Richard




--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
40

Can’t believe it Skot, just home from test-drive . The GB whining noise is gone !!!!! so is the shudder i experienced 
at low speed.
I will catch up on Sunday as the Missus will come along and as you have to book ahead  by a year or so plus you have to book for
3 or 4 nights. Just as an observation, in Berlin we were 750 Syncros with no drama plus you could park were ever you wanted .
When we attended  Malvern for BUSFEST , same applied nearly 8000 Kombis attending, no drama . the site super clean. Dogs and kids are allowed. Possibly the biggest dog show on the planet as Brits love their companions  most bought a sort of billy cart on rubber wheels and pulled the cart with kids and dogs onboard. Seen some cats too !!!  We Aussies have to learn a few things when we want to break the Kombi Event.
Hart



On 29 Sep 2016, at 1:55 pm, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Good work Hart.

Go for a drive with the main prop shaft out.

See if the noise is gone.

Then at least you know if you are on the right track.

Bets of luck and see you Saturday arvo at Old Bar.

Cheers,

Skot

On 29/09/2016 1:14 PM, Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Richard got the prop out and found the front uni seized. Hope i solved the problem once i have installed my spare.
Hart



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> 
Date:29/09/2016 12:24 PM (GMT+10:00) 
To: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> 
Cc: 
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal 

 
Richard, you are a legend ! It's that simple. Just as I'm preparing the ute for Old Bar kombi count it starts to send me a whining noise from the gb. Also when on deceleration it starts to shudder. ...
On w/end will drive down anyway.....just wish me luck please...Hart



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> 
Date:29/09/2016 12:03 AM (GMT+10:00) 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com 
Cc: 
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [17 Attachments] 

 

Hi all,

Too many late nights, but the engine is almost ready to fill with fluids and check for leaks.

Seems like a never ending job, and taken a few weeks longer than originally anticipated. That said I have done many little things not expected in the beginning.

Just a few pictures for your interest (just some random ones), comments below


The fuel tank sender, mine was all nice and clean, inside and out, even the seal (outside) looked fine, so was thinking why upset the inside seal if it's all good and firmly mounted. In the end I figured I had the seals, best to put them in. Glad I did. The outside seal was fine and still in good condition, the inside one however was falling apart, and some rust just starting between the inside seal and the inner edge of the plate with the studs! I was quite surprised as everything else looked great.


Notch in the bash plate, just enough to drain the GB oil without removing the sub frame. It also give access to a removable wading plug I put in the bell housing. I figured with it all sealed up, you have no way of knowing if a seal is on the way out. now I have a removable plug to check :)


Anyone who used the fuel line that came with the desert fox fuel tank, keep an eye on the hose! I have replaced mine already. Mostly as I had the tank out, but the large hose was already showing signs of aging!


Anyone with power steering, check the power steering lines where the RH hand brake cable runs over it, it rubs at this spot (have read of this rubbing through for some people). I have put some protective tape over it.


Tank straps, I found some dirt build up in there, so added a few extra drain holes. Luckily no rust at all on mine.


Even fitted a new fill hose. Not a fun job, not nowhere near as hard as putting the fuel tank back in!!


GoWesty coolant pipe savers installed (thanks Colin!)


New seals on the flywheel. Clutch all looked good on the pressure plate and friction plate, but there is some wear showing on the fingers (where the throw out bearing contacts). New throw out bearing and pilot bearing (with seal) in


Alternator and water pump protectors fitted. One nut (under water pump) I fitted an extended length nut, made getting it tight much easier!


All new fuel lines on the engine also. They actually looked quite good, so must have been replaced at some stage in it's life.


New hoses run on the tank. Worth noting, not only were the seal shot on the breather check valves, one of the check valves was stuck closed, the other stuck open!!


New charcoal canister. factory VW, but made in china, so I will rebuild my old one at some stage. These are designed to not need an inlet pipe, I adapted the inlet down to a hose size, and ran the inlet back into the engine bay. I was thinking of connecting it into the air cleaner, but decided in the end to let it suck air through a separate inline filter. Will be easy to monitor how it goes, but a lot better than sucking air from the wheel well.


Managed to get some OK shots inside the tank, this one is the screen


Heater installed!! Have yet to wire it all up electrically, so that will be a future job. Cables are run to the dash so far.


Hole in push rod covers to drain coolant


Richard




-- 
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting