Fuel tank removal

1

Hi all,

Trying to plan for a fuel tank removal on my bus to replace all the aging vent lines. Have done a fair bit of reading on the process. A little daunting, but it needs to be done (have put it off for a few years now!)


So, my question to any that have done this before, what sort of time frame would you allow to have the tank out? As a first timer working mostly alone I am guessing a day to get the engine/GB out, a day for the tank? (hopefully taking it slow and steady)

I am guessing similar time to put it all back in?


On all my other VW's I tend to remove the engine/GB as a whole (I have found this the easiest for me). Are there any reasons I could not do this in the T3?


I have not read in detail the re-install of the motor/GB process yet, any special things to keep in mind with the Syncro? EG alignment of the centre tail shaft etc? Is a string line and maybe a tail shaft flange to flange measurement sufficient? Everything runs very nicely in my bus now, so don't want to introduce any vibrations etc.


I have most of the parts I will need, but has anyone sourced a new charcoal canister? (or know of a good way to refurbish the existing one), and has anyone re-directed the breather line on it? (be nice to send it back to the air cleaner)

And lastly (for now), where is a good source for good quality fuel line? I should have all I need in a kit from van café, but the fuel line that came with the SA extra tank I am not happy with, so want to re-run those hoses while it's all out.


Thanks for any suggestions

Richard

2
Great thinking in advance.
I would mark the driveshaft flanges for sure , so they can go back exactly where they were.

you timeline seems reasonable.
Taking engine and GB out together is smart , not that hard.
Shouldn't take a whole day.

where I have found things to be just nasty is ..
for removing the fuel tank........

working up under the left rear fender area to get at the fuel sender area is rather a bother.

I have found the straps that hold the tank in ..found those badly rusted many times, including rusted nuts .

Same for the forward ends of the lower tank holding straps ...sometimes the nuts in the frame are rusted or spin or otherwise are an issue.

when you are finally to ready to remover the tank ..in my experience it has to be pryed out with a giant screw driver and much cussing.

try not to tear up the insulation on the tank.

if things go reasonably well I would expect to have the whole engine, GB and tank out in 10 to 12 hours work.

have fun !
one of my joke sayings when working on someone's Syncro when it's not fun is ..'glad I don't own it !' lol.

Scott

On 08/16/2016 02:12 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Hi all,

Trying to plan for a fuel tank removal on my bus to replace all the aging vent lines. Have done a fair bit of reading on the process. A little daunting, but it needs to be done (have put it off for a few years now!)


So, my question to any that have done this before, what sort of time frame would you allow to have the tank out? As a first timer working mostly alone I am guessing a day to get the engine/GB out, a day for the tank? (hopefully taking it slow and steady)

I am guessing similar time to put it all back in?


On all my other VW's I tend to remove the engine/GB as a whole (I have found this the easiest for me). Are there any reasons I could not do this in the T3?


I have not read in detail the re-install of the motor/GB process yet, any special things to keep in mind with the Syncro? EG alignment of the centre tail shaft etc? Is a string line and maybe a tail shaft flange to flange measurement sufficient? Everything runs very nicely in my bus now, so don't want to introduce any vibrations etc.


I have most of the parts I will need, but has anyone sourced a new charcoal canister? (or know of a good way to refurbish the existing one), and has anyone re-directed the breather line on it? (be nice to send it back to the air cleaner)

And lastly (for now), where is a good source for good quality fuel line? I should have all I need in a kit from van café, but the fuel line that came with the SA extra tank I am not happy with, so want to re-run those hoses while it's all out.


Thanks for any suggestions

Richard


3

Thanks Scott. Everything to date has come out on mine rust free and in great condition, so am hoping it's the same with the tank. (it's lived it's life in Alice Springs or in a garage, rarely been off road).

The pedal assembly I thought would be a day job, took three, so I try to allow more than I need :) I have a lot of things planned while it's out, so looking at 3 week ends all up.

clean/paint/rust proof, general tidy up, probably do clutch slave and throw out bearing, grease all pivots for clutch (have all ready done all gear linkages), reco start and fit relay on starter circuit, fit decoupler and any coolant lines that are not easily access with engine in (I have a full kit of new hoses).

If time permits I will also look to fit an under rear seat heater, but this may require some parts I don't have yet.

CV's and boots done not long ago, so that should be OK, and all engine mounts look OK, so will only replace if they look worn.

That's the brief plan! Am sure I will be thrown a few curve balls, and yes will make sure the kids are not in ear shot when the tank removal happens :)

Oh the one I have forgotten is the AC, will most likely need the fluid removed and hoses disconnected before I start (or possibly hang it up somewhere), similar for power steering pump.


All a bit daunting, but can put it down to a new experience afterwards!

4
Sounds like a lot of fun work.
it's always 'more' if you're doing thorough work.

AC compressor hangs up with hoses attached just fine.

on the PS pump I unbolt the hoses, leave the pump attached to the engine.

No penalty in opening up that fluid circuit, and mo' betta to change out some of the fluid anyway.
There's a filter screen in the bottom of the PS reservoir to remove, inspect and clean.

if doing throw out bearing , might want to check the PIlot Bearing.
The TOB's almost 'do not wear at all' ...seldom a problem with those.

the Pilot Bearing though ..
half the time I see where the felt dust seal is not there ( nor the metal ring that retains it, that's why there's no felt seal usually )
if that happens, the little rollers of the Pilot Brg go south easily.
Seen that lots.

oh..here's a GREAT little mod ..
two bolts with nuts hold the slave to the bracket.
the aft-most one is a bother..getting a little wrench on the nut under the bracekt.

what works fantastically ..have done it a dozen times at least..
is on that aft bolt, arc weld it to the bracket from underneath ..
this turns it into a stud. From then on that bolt is really easy to deal with.

oh ....I lube the hell out of the cross shaft in the bell housing ..
no one ever does .and they get sticky. I spray lube and pivot it by hand until it turns super smoothly.

yeah, those pedal assemblies are nasty to deal with all right !

cheers, Scott
On 8/16/2016 7:58 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Thanks Scott. Everything to date has come out on mine rust free and in great condition, so am hoping it's the same with the tank. (it's lived it's life in Alice Springs or in a garage, rarely been off road).

The pedal assembly I thought would be a day job, took three, so I try to allow more than I need :) I have a lot of things planned while it's out, so looking at 3 week ends all up.

clean/paint/rust proof, general tidy up, probably do clutch slave and throw out bearing, grease all pivots for clutch (have all ready done all gear linkages), reco start and fit relay on starter circuit, fit decoupler and any coolant lines that are not easily access with engine in (I have a full kit of new hoses).

If time permits I will also look to fit an under rear seat heater, but this may require some parts I don't have yet.

CV's and boots done not long ago, so that should be OK, and all engine mounts look OK, so will only replace if they look worn.

That's the brief plan! Am sure I will be thrown a few curve balls, and yes will make sure the kids are not in ear shot when the tank removal happens :)

Oh the one I have forgotten is the AC, will most likely need the fluid removed and hoses disconnected before I start (or possibly hang it up somewhere), similar for power steering pump.


All a bit daunting, but can put it down to a new experience afterwards!


5

Had a few too many distractions over the week end, so the tank is not out yet, but everything else is.

Ended up removing the two long plastic coolant lines, I think for now I will keep them in and will look to get stainless at some stage. Photo shows both ends of one pipe. I assume the steel support should be fully inside the pipe? The one hanging out I can just press back in?

I have a full kit of new hoses, but most seem (relatively) easy to get to with the engine in, so I might leave the old ones in for now and swap them out when I get a set of stainless pipes.

I noticed one of the plastic pipes is dated 1989, so I assume original, the other dated '94 so must have been replaced at some stage. Probably half the hoses look to have been replaced at some stage, so the system overall seems OK for now.


I have a second vacuum tank (in the brake booster line), can't see the need for it so might remove it (see pic)


Also check alignment and positioning before removing GB, thought it was odd with the front/rear GB straight down the string line, the engine case split line was offset?


Drained the gear box oil, was some fine crap stuck to the drain plug, but over all oil looked OK.

Sorry to drag out oil questions again , but is there consensus on oil to put in the GB? Mine has the correct grade but a mineral oil currently. And where is a good place to buy the oil?


Time for some fun with the tank!


Richard

6
Hey Richard,

Suggest this as good reading regards the long coolant pipes - Coolant Pipe Repair Kit for Vanagon | Gowesty

 


Gear box oil, from what I have read, mostly on thesamba, and what I use now, is Swepco 201.  Not Redline MT-90 anymore - gearbox died but was already on the way.  Not synthetic.  But lot's of different views / opinions on this.  I'm liking Swepco 201 so far.  Hard to get in Oz.

Cheers
7

Thanks Samuel. I am ordering one of those kits, but it doesn't fix the issue of the ends cracking, I would have thought an extension of some sort would have been better and cut the bad end off.

As long as it keeps me going until I get SS ones I guess.

Anyone made their own pipes in SS locally (EG a muffler shop)? Wonder how it compares on price?


Thanks on the oil, I always ran a Shell Synthetic in my T2 and type 3's, but that also is hard to get. I might hunt around what the local repco/autobarn/supercheap stock and do some research. If they have nothing suitable, I can just get the oil my mechanic uses


Anyway, tank is out (finally!!), what a job. I hope this is a once in a life time experience, and not a regular challenge!


Richard

8

OK, after procrastinating on this Emilsen in Melb stock Swepco 210. As you said not cheap!! Even Castrol Syntrax would be ~$150 to fill the rear only, so either way it's not cheap. I will get enough for the front diff also.


More questions!!

With the fuel level sender, mine all looks good, no significant wear on the resistor wire! The dreaded internal return hose was still intact and came out, but the outer casing crumbled in my hand when I grabbed it. The tank and screen inside are nice and clean. I have new seals for the sender, but the plates/studs inside the tank are spotless and no rust. The inner seal is all intact and secure to the tank (stuck on tight), so my thoughts are to leave it alone. The outer seal is good, but will fit a new one there.

I don't see the need to replace the inner one if it's all secure.


With the charcoal canister, has anyone used the cheap Passat ones? Not sure if I get one of those or just re-pack my original?


Has anyone done anything with the diff/GB/Clutch breather hoses? They are just open and shoved above the tank. On my T2 GB I fitted a hose back to a small fuel filter just to keep the dust out, and let it breath a little higher for creek crossings. Am thinking I can combine the three tubes and do a similar thing, and will look to fit a small fuel filter on the breather of the charcoal canister rather than look to connect it back to the air cleaner.


CV's are all good, so just a re-pack of grease there.


On the bad side, the fuel hose that came with the desert fox fuel tank is already showing signs of perishing after only 1 year. I will replace this. Anyone else who used the fuel line from the kit might want to check their hoses!


Decoupler from AATrans has arrived, so looking forward to having that operational.


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Thanks Samuel. I am ordering one of those kits, but it doesn't fix the issue of the ends cracking, I would have thought an extension of some sort would have been better and cut the bad end off.

As long as it keeps me going until I get SS ones I guess.

Anyone made their own pipes in SS locally (EG a muffler shop)? Wonder how it compares on price?


Thanks on the oil, I always ran a Shell Synthetic in my T2 and type 3's, but that also is hard to get. I might hunt around what the local repco/autobarn/supercheap stock and do some research. If they have nothing suitable, I can just get the oil my mechanic uses


Anyway, tank is out (finally!!), what a job. I hope this is a once in a life time experience, and not a regular challenge!


Richard

9
Hey Richard, So did you find your leak ? How much for the decoupler ? Great to see your Caravelle the other day How were your straps holding your tank in
Cheers Peter

On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 12:59 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

OK, after procrastinating on this Emilsen in Melb stock Swepco 210. As you said not cheap!! Even Castrol Syntrax would be ~$150 to fill the rear only, so either way it's not cheap. I will get enough for the front diff also.


More questions!!

With the fuel level sender, mine all looks good, no significant wear on the resistor wire! The dreaded internal return hose was still intact and came out, but the outer casing crumbled in my hand when I grabbed it. The tank and screen inside are nice and clean. I have new seals for the sender, but the plates/studs inside the tank are spotless and no rust. The inner seal is all intact and secure to the tank (stuck on tight), so my thoughts are to leave it alone. The outer seal is good, but will fit a new one there.

I don't see the need to replace the inner one if it's all secure.


With the charcoal canister, has anyone used the cheap Passat ones? Not sure if I get one of those or just re-pack my original?


Has anyone done anything with the diff/GB/Clutch breather hoses? They are just open and shoved above the tank. On my T2 GB I fitted a hose back to a small fuel filter just to keep the dust out, and let it breath a little higher for creek crossings. Am thinking I can combine the three tubes and do a similar thing, and will look to fit a small fuel filter on the breather of the charcoal canister rather than look to connect it back to the air cleaner.


CV's are all good, so just a re-pack of grease there.


On the bad side, the fuel hose that came with the desert fox fuel tank is already showing signs of perishing after only 1 year. I will replace this. Anyone else who used the fuel line from the kit might want to check their hoses!


Decoupler from AATrans has arrived, so looking forward to having that operational.


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Thanks Samuel. I am ordering one of those kits, but it doesn't fix the issue of the ends cracking, I would have thought an extension of some sort would have been better and cut the bad end off.

As long as it keeps me going until I get SS ones I guess.

Anyone made their own pipes in SS locally (EG a muffler shop)? Wonder how it compares on price?


Thanks on the oil, I always ran a Shell Synthetic in my T2 and type 3's, but that also is hard to get. I might hunt around what the local repco/autobarn/supercheap stock and do some research. If they have nothing suitable, I can just get the oil my mechanic uses


Anyway, tank is out (finally!!), what a job. I hope this is a once in a life time experience, and not a regular challenge!


Richard


10
Wow your busy Richard.  Just check there are differences between Swepco 210 and 201.  Can't remember exactly the differences, and it was getting a bit too scientific for me, I just remember for myself and my van from what I read 201 was the way to go.

I like your idea of a fuel filter on the gear box breather hose.  I wonder with such a small and somewhat long hose, will gunk get down there just open as it is?  If yes, then mine is probably filled with gunk from my leaky engine.
11

Likewise Peter, thanks for showing me around :)

Yes, have known the leak point for a while, the grommet around the "roll over valves" falling apart, I will try and get a picture. Bit of a shame really as everything else including all the hoses look in great condition, all getting replaced with new.

Doesn't;t need it, but will also replace the filler hose (from the fuel cap).

Anyway, it's all out now and getting a good clean and tidy up while I'm in there. Also adding a few extra's such as a bundle of cable front to rear (7 core trailer cable for future expansion, already have one from the battery to the rear of the same), extra vac line (vac gauge in dash one day), so will be be worth it in the long run.

New slave cylinder, reco starter motor, relay for second tank fuel pump, relay for starter solenoid to name a few.

Straps all great, not even surface rust and all bolts came off easy. The only bolts that were a bit funny were the 3 bolts on each bracket that supports the gear box. No rust of dirt in threads, but very tight in the thread all the way out. Will replace them with new and run a tap down the threads.

I might drill a couple of extra holes in the straps where dirt had accumulated so moisture cannot fester in there.


Decoupler $US895 (excluding core charge), ~$US200 postage, but got hit with $AU300 in duty/taxes by FedEx!!! Should have asked to split it into two shipments.

I pre-sent the nose cone so avoided the core charge. ($AU90 to ship over)

So that's ~$1850 just for parts.

No idea what labour cost would be to have some one else install, but I guess an experienced mechanic should do it in an hour or two.


thanks again on the heater! It cleaned up nicely but as there was some brown muck coming out of the core I have bought a new one (not that expensive) as well as a new switch and seals just to be on the safe side. The Syncro install is definitely different to 2WD, I'm not sure if the factory offered it on a Syncro?

I just really want to find an (economical) electric heater control valve so I can turn it on/off from the drivers seat.


Richard




---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <peterw1000@...> wrote :

Hey Richard, So did you find your leak ? How much for the decoupler ? Great to see your Caravelle the other day How were your straps holding your tank in
Cheers Peter

On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 12:59 PM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

OK, after procrastinating on this Emilsen in Melb stock Swepco 210. As you said not cheap!! Even Castrol Syntrax would be ~$150 to fill the rear only, so either way it's not cheap. I will get enough for the front diff also.


More questions!!

With the fuel level sender, mine all looks good, no significant wear on the resistor wire! The dreaded internal return hose was still intact and came out, but the outer casing crumbled in my hand when I grabbed it. The tank and screen inside are nice and clean. I have new seals for the sender, but the plates/studs inside the tank are spotless and no rust. The inner seal is all intact and secure to the tank (stuck on tight), so my thoughts are to leave it alone. The outer seal is good, but will fit a new one there.

I don't see the need to replace the inner one if it's all secure.


With the charcoal canister, has anyone used the cheap Passat ones? Not sure if I get one of those or just re-pack my original?


Has anyone done anything with the diff/GB/Clutch breather hoses? They are just open and shoved above the tank. On my T2 GB I fitted a hose back to a small fuel filter just to keep the dust out, and let it breath a little higher for creek crossings. Am thinking I can combine the three tubes and do a similar thing, and will look to fit a small fuel filter on the breather of the charcoal canister rather than look to connect it back to the air cleaner.


CV's are all good, so just a re-pack of grease there.


On the bad side, the fuel hose that came with the desert fox fuel tank is already showing signs of perishing after only 1 year. I will replace this. Anyone else who used the fuel line from the kit might want to check their hoses!


Decoupler from AATrans has arrived, so looking forward to having that operational.


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Thanks Samuel. I am ordering one of those kits, but it doesn't fix the issue of the ends cracking, I would have thought an extension of some sort would have been better and cut the bad end off.

As long as it keeps me going until I get SS ones I guess.

Anyone made their own pipes in SS locally (EG a muffler shop)? Wonder how it compares on price?


Thanks on the oil, I always ran a Shell Synthetic in my T2 and type 3's, but that also is hard to get. I might hunt around what the local repco/autobarn/supercheap stock and do some research. If they have nothing suitable, I can just get the oil my mechanic uses


Anyway, tank is out (finally!!), what a job. I hope this is a once in a life time experience, and not a regular challenge!


Richard


12
Hi Richard;
If you are in Sydney contact Paul Muller he knows them backward
Bob
 
Sent: Friday, September 2, 2016 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal
 
 

Likewise Peter, thanks for showing me around :)

Yes, have known the leak point for a while, the grommet around the "roll over valves" falling apart, I will try and get a picture. Bit of a shame really as everything else including all the hoses look in great condition, all getting replaced with new.

Doesn't;t need it, but will also replace the filler hose (from the fuel cap).

Anyway, it's all out now and getting a good clean and tidy up while I'm in there. Also adding a few extra's such as a bundle of cable front to rear (7 core trailer cable for future expansion, already have one from the battery to the rear of the same), extra vac line (vac gauge in dash one day), so will be be worth it in the long run.

New slave cylinder, reco starter motor, relay for second tank fuel pump, relay for starter solenoid to name a few.

Straps all great, not even surface rust and all bolts came off easy. The only bolts that were a bit funny were the 3 bolts on each bracket that supports the gear box. No rust of dirt in threads, but very tight in the thread all the way out. Will replace them with new and run a tap down the threads.

I might drill a couple of extra holes in the straps where dirt had accumulated so moisture cannot fester in there.

 

Decoupler $US895 (excluding core charge), ~$US200 postage, but got hit with $AU300 in duty/taxes by FedEx!!! Should have asked to split it into two shipments.

I pre-sent the nose cone so avoided the core charge. ($AU90 to ship over)

So that's ~$1850 just for parts.

No idea what labour cost would be to have some one else install, but I guess an experienced mechanic should do it in an hour or two.

 

thanks again on the heater! It cleaned up nicely but as there was some brown muck coming out of the core I have bought a new one (not that expensive) as well as a new switch and seals just to be on the safe side. The Syncro install is definitely different to 2WD, I'm not sure if the factory offered it on a Syncro?

I just really want to find an (economical) electric heater control valve so I can turn it on/off from the drivers seat.

 

Richard

 



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <peterw1000@...> wrote :

Hey Richard, So did you find your leak ? How much for the decoupler ? Great to see your Caravelle the other day How were your straps holding your tank in
Cheers Peter

On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 12:59 PM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

OK, after procrastinating on this Emilsen in Melb stock Swepco 210. As you said not cheap!! Even Castrol Syntrax would be ~$150 to fill the rear only, so either way it's not cheap. I will get enough for the front diff also.

 

More questions!!

With the fuel level sender, mine all looks good, no significant wear on the resistor wire! The dreaded internal return hose was still intact and came out, but the outer casing crumbled in my hand when I grabbed it. The tank and screen inside are nice and clean. I have new seals for the sender, but the plates/studs inside the tank are spotless and no rust. The inner seal is all intact and secure to the tank (stuck on tight), so my thoughts are to leave it alone. The outer seal is good, but will fit a new one there.

I don't see the need to replace the inner one if it's all secure.

 

With the charcoal canister, has anyone used the cheap Passat ones? Not sure if I get one of those or just re-pack my original?

 

Has anyone done anything with the diff/GB/Clutch breather hoses? They are just open and shoved above the tank. On my T2 GB I fitted a hose back to a small fuel filter just to keep the dust out, and let it breath a little higher for creek crossings. Am thinking I can combine the three tubes and do a similar thing, and will look to fit a small fuel filter on the breather of the charcoal canister rather than look to connect it back to the air cleaner.

 

CV's are all good, so just a re-pack of grease there.

 

On the bad side, the fuel hose that came with the desert fox fuel tank is already showing signs of perishing after only 1 year. I will replace this. Anyone else who used the fuel line from the kit might want to check their hoses!

 

Decoupler from AATrans has arrived, so looking forward to having that operational.

 

Richard



---In mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Thanks Samuel. I am ordering one of those kits, but it doesn't fix the issue of the ends cracking, I would have thought an extension of some sort would have been better and cut the bad end off.

As long as it keeps me going until I get SS ones I guess.

Anyone made their own pipes in SS locally (EG a muffler shop)? Wonder how it compares on price?

 

Thanks on the oil, I always ran a Shell Synthetic in my T2 and type 3's, but that also is hard to get. I might hunt around what the local repco/autobarn/supercheap stock and do some research. If they have nothing suitable, I can just get the oil my mechanic uses

 

Anyway, tank is out (finally!!), what a job. I hope this is a once in a life time experience, and not a regular challenge!

 

Richard


13

Haha, too busy! When I bought the Syncro I told the better half this is a "modern car" (well it was modern by our standards) so a mechanic can look after it for us and free up my time. So am now getting the questions why are you doing all this work!

Yes, did a lot of reading on the 201/210. I picked 210 purely off AA Transaxles web page recommendation for higher HP/Torque motors (even though I have a stock motor) and no plans to go away from stock. In the write up the 210 being a multi grade is marginally lighter (easier gear changes) when cold which. It is aimed at racing though, so goes to a much heavier 140W oil when hot how to cope with the heat in race GB's.

So I guess it was more to do with easier shifting when cold compared to the 201 (I won't need the better performance at high temps!). So both work equally well, the 210 just has a wider weight.

The guy selling it said most of the Swepco he sells to Porsche owners for race GB's and farmers for helicopter gear boxes up north. So he does tend to keep it in larger (5 gal) drums, but had the one gallon bottles currently. He is a chemist, no not directly involved in racing or cars, but did say it's ability to stick to the gears, quieten gear boxes and extend their service life was very good. The problem as always, I can tell you if it's any good in 10 years time if my GB hasn't had a rebuild :)

I am planning to do more towing with mine, so the better oil and decoupler I think (well hope) will pay off in the long run.


If the breather works out I will try and get some pictures. Have had that in my T2 well over 10 years now and plenty of creek crossings in that time with no issue. One thing to keep in mind with small paper element fuel filters, any moisture in the line will cause the paper pores to close up and block air flow!! Long story how I figured that one out!

I wasn't planning to, but I might remove the GB hose and see if it's clear. I guess the telling thing is if the GB is oil tight the breather must be OK! The vent hose on the charcoal canister (shoved in the chassis rail in the wheel well), quite a lot of dust came out of that one, so definitely need to send that somewhere else.

The breather hoses have nothing to do with the engine, so engine issues that will not affect them (engine case breather goes to the intake)


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <me@...> wrote :

Wow your busy Richard.  Just check there are differences between Swepco 210 and 201.  Can't remember exactly the differences, and it was getting a bit too scientific for me, I just remember for myself and my van from what I read 201 was the way to go.

I like your idea of a fuel filter on the gear box breather hose.  I wonder with such a small and somewhat long hose, will gunk get down there just open as it is?  If yes, then mine is probably filled with gunk from my leaky engine.
14

Thanks Bob, I'm in Brissy. What's Paul's number?

I assume you mean on the heater, the valve I need is not factory, the factory valve is on the heater core itself, so you need to reach under the seat and flick a lever to open close the valve. The idea is to mostly leave the valve open (hot coolant in core all the time) and turn the fan on/off to control cabin temperature.

An electric solenoid would mean I can do this with a switch on the dash, so need to find a car that had them and source from there. Holden/ford seem to be vacuum operated, have found electric ones for Merc/Audi but they are $200-300!


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <rcdale@...> wrote :

Hi Richard;
If you are in Sydney contact Paul Muller he knows them backward
Bob
 
Sent: Friday, September 2, 2016 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal
 
 

Likewise Peter, thanks for showing me around :)

Yes, have known the leak point for a while, the grommet around the "roll over valves" falling apart, I will try and get a picture. Bit of a shame really as everything else including all the hoses look in great condition, all getting replaced with new.

Doesn't;t need it, but will also replace the filler hose (from the fuel cap).

Anyway, it's all out now and getting a good clean and tidy up while I'm in there. Also adding a few extra's such as a bundle of cable front to rear (7 core trailer cable for future expansion, already have one from the battery to the rear of the same), extra vac line (vac gauge in dash one day), so will be be worth it in the long run.

New slave cylinder, reco starter motor, relay for second tank fuel pump, relay for starter solenoid to name a few.

Straps all great, not even surface rust and all bolts came off easy. The only bolts that were a bit funny were the 3 bolts on each bracket that supports the gear box. No rust of dirt in threads, but very tight in the thread all the way out. Will replace them with new and run a tap down the threads.

I might drill a couple of extra holes in the straps where dirt had accumulated so moisture cannot fester in there.

 

Decoupler $US895 (excluding core charge), ~$US200 postage, but got hit with $AU300 in duty/taxes by FedEx!!! Should have asked to split it into two shipments.

I pre-sent the nose cone so avoided the core charge. ($AU90 to ship over)

So that's ~$1850 just for parts.

No idea what labour cost would be to have some one else install, but I guess an experienced mechanic should do it in an hour or two.

 

thanks again on the heater! It cleaned up nicely but as there was some brown muck coming out of the core I have bought a new one (not that expensive) as well as a new switch and seals just to be on the safe side. The Syncro install is definitely different to 2WD, I'm not sure if the factory offered it on a Syncro?

I just really want to find an (economical) electric heater control valve so I can turn it on/off from the drivers seat.

 

Richard

 



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <peterw1000@...> wrote :

Hey Richard, So did you find your leak ? How much for the decoupler ? Great to see your Caravelle the other day How were your straps holding your tank in
Cheers Peter

On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 12:59 PM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

OK, after procrastinating on this Emilsen in Melb stock Swepco 210. As you said not cheap!! Even Castrol Syntrax would be ~$150 to fill the rear only, so either way it's not cheap. I will get enough for the front diff also.

 

More questions!!

With the fuel level sender, mine all looks good, no significant wear on the resistor wire! The dreaded internal return hose was still intact and came out, but the outer casing crumbled in my hand when I grabbed it. The tank and screen inside are nice and clean. I have new seals for the sender, but the plates/studs inside the tank are spotless and no rust. The inner seal is all intact and secure to the tank (stuck on tight), so my thoughts are to leave it alone. The outer seal is good, but will fit a new one there.

I don't see the need to replace the inner one if it's all secure.

 

With the charcoal canister, has anyone used the cheap Passat ones? Not sure if I get one of those or just re-pack my original?

 

Has anyone done anything with the diff/GB/Clutch breather hoses? They are just open and shoved above the tank. On my T2 GB I fitted a hose back to a small fuel filter just to keep the dust out, and let it breath a little higher for creek crossings. Am thinking I can combine the three tubes and do a similar thing, and will look to fit a small fuel filter on the breather of the charcoal canister rather than look to connect it back to the air cleaner.

 

CV's are all good, so just a re-pack of grease there.

 

On the bad side, the fuel hose that came with the desert fox fuel tank is already showing signs of perishing after only 1 year. I will replace this. Anyone else who used the fuel line from the kit might want to check their hoses!

 

Decoupler from AATrans has arrived, so looking forward to having that operational.

 

Richard



---In mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <cathrich1@...> wrote :

Thanks Samuel. I am ordering one of those kits, but it doesn't fix the issue of the ends cracking, I would have thought an extension of some sort would have been better and cut the bad end off.

As long as it keeps me going until I get SS ones I guess.

Anyone made their own pipes in SS locally (EG a muffler shop)? Wonder how it compares on price?

 

Thanks on the oil, I always ran a Shell Synthetic in my T2 and type 3's, but that also is hard to get. I might hunt around what the local repco/autobarn/supercheap stock and do some research. If they have nothing suitable, I can just get the oil my mechanic uses

 

Anyway, tank is out (finally!!), what a job. I hope this is a once in a life time experience, and not a regular challenge!

 

Richard


15

Hi all,

Slow progress this week end, but most things are cleaned and prepared for painting, tank all cleaned, GB all cleaned and ready for the decoupler to go on.


Was wondering if anyone can help with a couple of pictures. After looking at the bash plate a few times, I think it's worth modifying for better access to the oil drain plug (gear box). As I have everything out, I don't want to re-install everything to see what clearance I need.
If some one could send a picture looking directly at the plug (directly at the centre line of the plug) I will see what needs to be modified.
If you also had a picture at 90 degrees to that (looking up and back towards the motor) so show the clearance between the bash plate and the exhaust pipe, that would also be handy.
There is also a bracket there supporting the muffler. This also was a pain making it hard to split the engine/GB, so I might modify this also.

I have a general idea of what I need to do, but some pictures would help.

Just seems silly to remove all the bars just to replace the oil. Down the track I have in mind to make some extra bash plates that are easier to install/remove.
The other one I plan is a hole in the push rod tube covers to give access to the cylinder drain bolts (coolant). It also needs the bash plate/bars removed plus remove these plates to access when a simple hole would make it much easier with a bung to cover up the hole.

Thanks,
Richard

16

Hi Scott,

With the clutch slave nuts, I assume you weld them on underneath the bracket, so the bolts goes in from above?

Just wondering, is there room for the bolt to come out that way (tank not too close?)


I was also wondering how you under the clutch supply tube banjo bolt? (if everything is still in place around it?)


Thanks,

Richard

17

Was looking at the engine today, I notice the bell housing has a breather at the top, but it is also open at the bottom. Is that correct, or should the syncro be sealed at the bottom?

Richard

18
There is a grommet for the bottom and sealant should be applied to the flange. Gregor 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 7 Sep 2016, at 12:21 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Was looking at the engine today, I notice the bell housing has a breather at the top, but it is also open at the bottom. Is that correct, or should the syncro be sealed at the bottom?

Richard

19

Well there you go!! It all looks OK in there despite I do the odd creek crossing/mud wading. Does the grommet incorporate a drain tube of some sort? I will make my own unless they are available new?


Progress is still slow but getting there. Just a few pics. Cleaned up and covered the original earth leads, and will double up on each (two leads on the GB, one to each head).Also doubling up on the cable from the alternator to the starter.

Going to trial some rubber panels and see if they help keep dirt/mud/sand out

A couple of the nut serts at the back holding the muffler cover had come loose, so have replaced them,

Was interesting to see the kinks in the fuel filler, also getting a new hose.

Photo of the failed grommet in the tank breather/roll over valve. Seemed odd all the other rubber and hoses are in good condition. Even the failed grommet is fine externally, only the inside fell to pieces.

Currently working on fitting the rear heater and decoupler

Richard





---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gregespo73@...> wrote :

There is a grommet for the bottom and sealant should be applied to the flange. Gregor 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 7 Sep 2016, at 12:21 AM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Was looking at the engine today, I notice the bell housing has a breather at the top, but it is also open at the bottom. Is that correct, or should the syncro be sealed at the bottom?

Richard

20

Hi Richard thanks for your photos very interesting.  Can you explain the theory behind doubling the earth leads, and can you buy these leads or did you make them your self?  Greg N