Fuel Tank return line perished

1

Hi All


Just thought I'd mention this. 

I just removed the fuel level sensor since it failed.

The rubber fuel hose that is inside the tank (fuel return) was so perished it fell to pieces as it came out.

Thousands of tiny pieces of rubber inside the tank.

It is the rubber outer sheath that failed, the fabric core still seems to be viable.


It is still attached inside the tank (what is left of it) and not sure what to do.

Not the easiest thing to get at...


Peter


2
Hi Peter,
That fuel line must be part of the Austrian content !! If it doesn't even last 25 years + submerged in fuel !!
Suppose this will or has already happened to most of us, possibly without knowing of it.
Please do keep us in the loop this is a very important topic, hope it spares me the experience of happening on a German autobahn..
Hart

Sent from my iPad

On 25 Jul 2015, at 3:06 pm, kestel.p@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi All


Just thought I'd mention this. 

I just removed the fuel level sensor since it failed.

The rubber fuel hose that is inside the tank (fuel return) was so perished it fell to pieces as it came out.

Thousands of tiny pieces of rubber inside the tank.

It is the rubber outer sheath that failed, the fabric core still seems to be viable.


It is still attached inside the tank (what is left of it) and not sure what to do.

Not the easiest thing to get at...


Peter


3
Ethanol is very good at doing that to old fuel lines. 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 25 Jul 2015, at 3:39 pm, Hartmut Kiehn hartis@live.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi Peter,
That fuel line must be part of the Austrian content !! If it doesn't even last 25 years + submerged in fuel !!
Suppose this will or has already happened to most of us, possibly without knowing of it.
Please do keep us in the loop this is a very important topic, hope it spares me the experience of happening on a German autobahn..
Hart

Sent from my iPad

On 25 Jul 2015, at 3:06 pm, kestel.p@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi All


Just thought I'd mention this. 

I just removed the fuel level sensor since it failed.

The rubber fuel hose that is inside the tank (fuel return) was so perished it fell to pieces as it came out.

Thousands of tiny pieces of rubber inside the tank.

It is the rubber outer sheath that failed, the fabric core still seems to be viable.


It is still attached inside the tank (what is left of it) and not sure what to do.

Not the easiest thing to get at...


Peter


4

Not nice to know something hidden away is doing that inside the tank!!

On a related note, in cleaning up under my bus I have noticed a faint fuel smell, and have discovered the rubber grommet around the roll over valve seems perished.

There is not enough room to remove the roll over valve.


Does anyone know if the tank drops far if you loosen the straps? It might just give me enough room to replace the seal.   That or I guess I can lower the engine/GB a bit and see of the tank lowers enough to get it out. Not keen to drop the GB out just for that.


Richard

5
But wait...there's more.
The circular flange/plate (with 8 bolts) that mounts to the side of the tank.
After cleaning it up I found it was heavily corroded (on the inside). The rust was very deep and in a few years it would have leaked.
I had to use wire brush, de oxidiser, cold gal (wait one day), etch primer (wait one day) and finally a fuel proof paint (and wait 5 days!).

I was in the auto store and the store owner stated "did you know that several T3 VW transporters have recently caught fire due to fuel leaks".

I hate to say this...
"I think our T3s have reached an age where the fuel tank and all the associated piping seals etc needs to be closely looked at".

So Richard, If you can smell fuel, bite the bullet, allow a few weeks for the job and drop the gear box.
Take out the tank.
Open it up and have a good look.
6
OK there may be an easier way.
1: Remove the LH rear wheel.
2: Remove the battery -ve terminal.
3: Remove the fuel line (that goes to the engine) and pump out the tank into jerry cans ( I just used a 12v battery direct to the fuel pump connector).
4: Remove the mounting bracket for the fuel canister and push the canister aside.
5: Remove the fuel sender plug and fuel return hose (on the outside).
6: Remove the 8 nuts and prize of the flange (I used a paint can opener).
7a: Put out your cigarette.
7b: Slide out the fuel sender far enough to remove the rubber fuel return line (internal).
8: Remove the flange with sender.
9: Reach inside the tank and you can easily remove the internal rubber fuel return line.
10: Clean inside the tank?? I am going to try pouring in fuel and siphoning out again (through the side entry).
7
Siphon success!
By pouring about 500mls of fuel at a time (in through the petrol cap entry) and using a plastic tube (at the side entry), I was able to clean out the tank. Roughly a tablespoon of particles came out each time.
It is easy to reach inside the tank with the tube. Just try not to swallow...

8
Hey Folks,

I know of a power steering kit that is available on the Central Coast
NSW if anyone is interested.

These are rare kits and just dont seem to pop up much at all.

If anyone is interested contact Lucky Phil on 0403 999 089.

His kit includes everything - even the 3 groove pulley and I think he is
asking $500.00

Cheers,

Skot
9
Some of the parts are different for a syncro.
10
Really Phil,

Which parts?

Cheers,

Skot

On 28/07/2015 6:17 AM, plander@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Some of the parts are different for a syncro.


11
The intermediate shaft is different: See attached
The P/N highlighted is the syncro one. Shafts are the same for LHD & RHD.
Hence they can be obtained form Europe or the US without too many problems.
I bought one a last year, cost me around $100 incl. shipping from Europe.

Hans

On 28/07/2015 07:21, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Really Phil,

Which parts?

Cheers,

Skot

On 28/07/2015 6:17 AM, plander@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Some of the parts are different for a syncro.



12

That sounds right, when looking under the 2WD and Syncro, the cross member the rack and pinion mounts to is in a different location in the Syncro! It had to move to give room for the suspension sub frame

As I have never driven a non power steering Syncro, how different are they? I assume once rolling there's no need for power steering, it really only helps when crawling around in the bush or parking. It may be a nice to have, but is it really required?

Richard

13
Richard,

I drove my dads one which didnt have power steering and it was not fun.

The steering was more vague and it was very heavy.

He had a power steering kit installed and it was a joy to drive again.

This is one thing that separates the bay from the T3 - lovely power steering!

Cheers,

Skot

On 28/07/2015 10:58 AM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

That sounds right, when looking under the 2WD and Syncro, the cross member the rack and pinion mounts to is in a different location in the Syncro! It had to move to give room for the suspension sub frame

As I have never driven a non power steering Syncro, how different are they? I assume once rolling there's no need for power steering, it really only helps when crawling around in the bush or parking. It may be a nice to have, but is it really required?

Richard


14

OK, interesting to know. Maybe it's only for Syncro's?

My brother had a 2WD single cab years ago that I borrowed from time to time, never felt the need for power steering, even with a load or at low speed. I assume the rack was geared with no power assist in mind (or maybe utes were different to bus's?). His was the very last of them ('92?)

No need for power steering on a Bay, if everything was right they were easily as nice to drive as a T3 and quite light to steer.

My bay was a little heavy but not uncomfortable as it lived most of it's life loaded to max GVM and with 215/75R15's. It's better now it's back on stock rims/tires and most of the junk is now transferred to the Syncro...


Handling is much better in a T3, and much quieter and more room inside, I have removed the skid pads from my elbows now that I hardly drive the Bay :)

Richard

15
Hi Richard,

Seems I need to work out more - should have kept my early bay as it had really nasty steering - although it was lowered a bit and very loose vague steering.

My dads syncro was a tank to drive until the power steering - it made a massive difference.

Cheers,

Skot

On 28/07/2015 5:08 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

OK, interesting to know. Maybe it's only for Syncro's?

My brother had a 2WD single cab years ago that I borrowed from time to time, never felt the need for power steering, even with a load or at low speed. I assume the rack was geared with no power assist in mind (or maybe utes were different to bus's?). His was the very last of them ('92?)

No need for power steering on a Bay, if everything was right they were easily as nice to drive as a T3 and quite light to steer.

My bay was a little heavy but not uncomfortable as it lived most of it's life loaded to max GVM and with 215/75R15's. It's better now it's back on stock rims/tires and most of the junk is now transferred to the Syncro...


Handling is much better in a T3, and much quieter and more room inside, I have removed the skid pads from my elbows now that I hardly drive the Bay :)

Richard


16
Maybe you need a correct wheel alignment. (Very hard to get)
17
Really required? Evidently not if VW also made lots of T3 vans without. Maintaining tyre pressure sure helps.

However I do agree, when negotiating offroad, P/S offers more secure steering control. 

There now is an electric power steering kit that attaches to the steering column, doing away with all the modification /install of what otherwise is required underneath to fit the factory setup. Though I'm unaware of anyone having fitted it in OZ, nor of a review.
Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 17:58:06 -0700
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Power Steering Kit Available

 

That sounds right, when looking under the 2WD and Syncro, the cross member the rack and pinion mounts to is in a different location in the Syncro! It had to move to give room for the suspension sub frame
As I have never driven a non power steering Syncro, how different are they? I assume once rolling there's no need for power steering, it really only helps when crawling around in the bush or parking. It may be a nice to have, but is it really required?
Richard


18

My better half had no issues driving the Bay, everything in it was replaced with new OEM parts when I restored it though.

All that said after 12 months swapping between the Bay and the Syncro, the bay is now on club rego and the Syncro's the daily driver :)

I have been spoilt with power steering now, so would e hard to give it up!

Richard

19
If anyone is after the Syncro intermediate shaft I have one, willing to swap for a 2WD one.

Cheers Brent