FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R

-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 8 December 2010 8:50 AM
To: Gullyraker@aol.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R

Roger, Scott & all,
Thank you for these hints & tips, I'm thinking I'll now R&R the oil cooler & WP together, if only to check/clean the OC. Is there are "test" to check the OC condition, other than visual?

Right now I've reached the stage of needing to physically remove the worn WP off its mounting studs ... with the RHS coolant pipe in the way as Scott previously described. I'm now thinking dealing with that pipe obstacle may be harder than removing or just slackening the drive pulley enough to gain more slack space for the WP to slip off its mounting studs. Any thoughts on this option please? ... Will that work better and still without entirely removing the drive pulley & its woodruff key? TIA.

Great "fun" so far!


-----Original Message-----
From: <Gullyraker@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 7 December 2010 3:17 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil Cooler R&R

[The entire original message is not included]
Hi Ken,
            There's not much can go wrong with the oil cooler apart from corrosion, which will mostly be evident on the hose union pipes.

  If you take it to the local radiator shop they can pressure test it in the same way they test a heater core - plug the outlet and insert an expanding rubber plug with an air connection into the inlet, hold it under water and test for leaks with compressed air.

  If you wanted to perform the test at home; the pipe plug is just a tapered rubber bung with a small bolt through the middle of it, two washers and a wing nut. Insert the plug into one of the pipes, and tighten the wing nut to expand the plug and seal the pipe. A lever-action wine cork would probably do the trick.

  The plug with the air connection will test your inventive skills a little more. You might find something from an antique soda-siphon that would do the job. Or maybe a wine cork or rubber bung drilled through to accept a nitto-style air fitting, held in to the pipe with a couple of hose clamps or cable ties around the body of the oil cooler.

  Adjust the regulator on the compressor to limit air pressure to a little higher than that in the cooling system [refer to the pressure rating of the cap to find out what that is].
Connect the air hose and drop it into a bucket of water to check for bubbles!

  Sounds like a good excuse to pop a cork or two anyway, but after a couple of snifters you will probably agree that it's not really worth the hassle. If the old oil-cooler looks corroded, just toss it away.

  If you get stuck for a new one at short notice, I've got one sitting on the shelf that I could express-post to you. You can replace it later on.

  Remember - if you take the skin off your knuckles and don't have a broken nose or a black eye, everyone will reckon you're a winner!

Cheers, Roger [Beetle].