FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor

1
Yep. Too easy.
Hand it to a competent auto electrician to simply renovate it for say $250. They do squillions of them.

While you are at it, instead of the near impossible to get at pull-off/push-on cable connection on the solenoid, get him to solder in a permanent cable connection to it, run it back over the top of it to just through the firewall and install an inline connect/disconnect there instead. Makes future starter motor R&R work a whole lot easier
Cheers.
Ken
.


-----Original Message-----
From: harryschrepfer <harryschrepfer@yahoo.com.au>
Sent: Thursday, 6 May 2010 11:41 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor


Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry
2
Or just leave the push on and make another join so that in an emergency the starter can be replaced with another standard one.



> Ken Garratt <unclekenz@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Yep. Too easy.
> Hand it to a competent auto electrician to simply renovate it for say
> $250. They do squillions of them.
>
> While you are at it, instead of the near impossible to get at
> pull-off/push-on cable connection on the solenoid, get him to solder in
> a permanent cable connection to it, run it back over the top of it to
> just through the firewall and install an inline connect/disconnect there
> instead. Makes future starter motor R&R work a whole lot easier
> Cheers.
> Ken
> .
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: harryschrepfer <harryschrepfer@yahoo.com.au>
> Sent: Thursday, 6 May 2010 11:41 AM
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
>
>
> Hi all,
> my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's
> gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
> Thanks Harry
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
3
Scott and All,
Ok thanks a lot, yes I agree.
So let's cut to the chase, here's my unresolved issue.
Say 3 years ago when I had to R&R the starter and realising the diflock actuator and its bracket must be removed first to make room to pull it, on closer examination I could achieve that at that time only because only the more accessible actuator bracket bolt was in place holding the bracket in place so simple to remove. Meaning the other virtually inaccessible hence unremovable bracket bolt had previously been left off at some previous time by persons unknown. Meaning someone else prior had discovered the same R&R problem so they simply worked around it in this way ... left the too hard bolt off. At the time, that was ok because my diflock system wasn't fully installed but now it is, meaning both bolts now need to be in place.

All of that now begs the question. Without lowering the transaxle to gain freer access, how does one now get at the virtually inaccessible bracket bolt so that the whole actuator assembly can be removed first to provide enough clearance to R&R the starter? And the same problem occurs when re-installing.
As I asked before, am I missing something? Perhaps my removal/install step sequence is wrong. Or is it in fact impossible to R&R the starter with the transaxle left in place due to the inability to remove the actuator assembly because of this one particular inaccessible/unremovable actuator bracket bolt?

No wonder I can no longer sleep at night haha.

Any thoughts? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken


-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com>
Sent: Saturday, 8 May 2010 3:26 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor



[The entire original message is not included]