FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

1

The @#$%^&* server didn’t send – again!  Try again!!

 

From: Les Harris [mailto:leslieharris@optusnet.com.au]
Sent: 17 September 2014 17:51
To: 'Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

The engine is now running on Hartmut’s distributor/Hall sender.  This narrows the original problem down to 98% Hall sender malfunction.  The remaining possibility, the AFM harness cannot be tested until I can go for a long drive at highway speeds.

I am forced to comment that the Bentleys treatment of the distributor information is weakly amateur at best, as will be seen from the following diagram:

There’s nothing remotely like that in Bentleys – certainly not anywhere that one would expect it to be!

I had thought that the distributor drive shaft had been installed several teeth out of position but this cannot be correct because Hartmut’s distributor came off a standard MV engine, which I would assume to be in standard configuration.

Les

 

 

 

2
Hi Les,
I have to say from the start that despite the number of VWs I have owned, I have never worked on one of their engines.

That said, lets go back to first principals, because I have worked and still work on other engines in my collection.

Provided the engine is assembled correctly and the valve timing is in place and correct:
To time the ignitions:
1. Move the #1 piston to Top Dead Centre. (There are two TDCs, and you have to get the right one. )
2. Check to see that both the inlet and the exhaust valves are closed. (This only happens when you have the right TDC.)
3. Locate the rotor on the distributor to the position where it will be just firing on #1.
4. Reinsert the rotor drive shaft so that it engages with it's drive while the rotor is still in the right place.
It is then just a matter of getting the spark in just the right position which should be very close or near bye.

On a Singer OH cam engine I actually open the valve gaps to about .04" so that they are both just giving me a gap on the cam. This assures me that the cam and the crank shaft are in just the right position and I can now time the distributor.

Hope this helps.
Peter




--Original Message Text---
From: 'Les Harris' leslieharris@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2014 18:25:46 +1000

v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}



The @#$%^&* server didnt send  again! Try again!!




From: Les Harris [mailto:leslieharris@optusnet.com.au]
Sent: 17 September 2014 17:51
To: 'Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!




The engine is now running on Hartmuts distributor/Hall sender. This narrows the original problem down to 98% Hall sender malfunction. The remaining possibility, the AFM harness cannot be tested until I can go for a long drive at highway speeds.

I am forced to comment that the Bentleys treatment of the distributor information is weakly amateur at best, as will be seen from the following diagram:



Theres nothing remotely like that in Bentleys  certainly not anywhere that one would expect it to be!

I had thought that the distributor drive shaft had been installed several teeth out of position but this cannot be correct because Hartmuts distributor came off a standard MV engine, which I would assume to be in standard configuration.

Les











3
Firstly Les something is wrong with the site as your message has not come through to me or the site. I only happened to notice it on the end of Peters message!

What is crucial here is which lead configuration did you use? If you used that reversed setup and it runs on Harts dizzy then the problem is in the drive in the engine. If you corrected the leads and it runs on Harts dizzy then your old dizzy has been assembled wrong. Greg

From: "'Peter Schweinsberg' peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 11:13
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 
Hi Les,
I have to say from the start that despite the number of VWs I have owned, I have never worked on one of their engines.

That said, lets go back to first principals, because I have worked and still work on other engines in my collection.

Provided the engine is assembled correctly and the valve timing is in place and correct:
To time the ignitions:
1. Move the #1 piston to Top Dead Centre. (There are two TDCs, and you have to get the right one. )
2. Check to see that both the inlet and the exhaust valves are closed. (This only happens when you have the right TDC.)
3. Locate the rotor on the distributor to the position where it will be just firing on #1.
4. Reinsert the rotor drive shaft so that it engages with it's drive while the rotor is still in the right place.
It is then just a matter of getting the spark in just the right position which should be very close or near bye.

On a Singer OH cam engine I actually open the valve gaps to about .04" so that they are both just giving me a gap on the cam. This assures me that the cam and the crank shaft are in just the right position and I can now time the distributor.

Hope this helps.
Peter




--Original Message Text---
From: 'Les Harris' leslieharris@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2014 18:25:46 +1000

v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}



The @#$%^* server didnt send again! Try again!!




From: Les Harris [mailto:leslieharris@optusnet.com.au]
Sent: 17 September 2014 17:51
To: 'Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!




The engine is now running on Hartmuts distributor/Hall sender. This narrows the original problem down to 98% Hall sender malfunction. The remaining possibility, the AFM harness cannot be tested until I can go for a long drive at highway speeds.

I am forced to comment that the Bentleys treatment of the distributor information is weakly amateur at best, as will be seen from the following diagram:



Theres nothing remotely like that in Bentleys certainly not anywhere that one would expect it to be!

I had thought that the distributor drive shaft had been installed several teeth out of position but this cannot be correct because Hartmuts distributor came off a standard MV engine, which I would assume to be in standard configuration.

Les













4

Peter, Greg,

I established #1 cylinder TDC on the firing stroke, which produced the offset position in the distributor drive as illustrated in the diagram.

Hartmut’s distributor, which was pulled off a running MV engine, dropped straight on without any change in the securing bracket position.

The rotor arm aligned with the notch in the distributor body rim and the HT leads were then on the correct side of the distributor cap.

What this tells me is that the dog slot in the distributor drive shaft on Hartmut’s engine is the same as on my engine.  (It is highly improbable that the same drunken baboon got at Hartmut’s engine as well!!) 

It therefore follows that the correct position for all MV engines must be as shown on my diagram.

It further follows that said drunken baboon got the distributor body out of phase by 180 degrees, which resulted in the crossed over HT leads.

After sitting for a couple of weeks, it started in two seconds on the first hit of the starter.  QED!!

Les

(Greg, Yahoo is so greatly overloaded that some messages get lost in the system and take a couple of days to surface again.)

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 11:25
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

 

Firstly Les something is wrong with the site as your message has not come through to me or the site. I only happened to notice it on the end of Peters message!

 

What is crucial here is which lead configuration did you use? If you used that reversed setup and it runs on Harts dizzy then the problem is in the drive in the engine. If you corrected the leads and it runs on Harts dizzy then your old dizzy has been assembled wrong. Greg

 

From: "'Peter Schweinsberg' peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 11:13
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

 

Hi Les,
I have to say from the start that despite the number of VWs I have owned, I have never worked on one of their engines.

That said, lets go back to first principals, because I have worked and still work on other engines in my collection.

Provided the engine is assembled correctly and the valve timing is in place and correct:
To time the ignitions:
1. Move the #1 piston to Top Dead Centre. (There are two TDCs, and you have to get the right one. )
2. Check to see that both the inlet and the exhaust valves are closed. (This only happens when you have the right TDC.)
3. Locate the rotor on the distributor to the position where it will be just firing on #1.
4. Reinsert the rotor drive shaft so that it engages with it's drive while the rotor is still in the right place.
It is then just a matter of getting the spark in just the right position which should be very close or near bye.

On a Singer OH cam engine I actually open the valve gaps to about .04" so that they are both just giving me a gap on the cam. This assures me that the cam and the crank shaft are in just the right position and I can now time the distributor.

Hope this helps.
Peter



5
Well that's good news Les. Bill was on the money and someone has assembled the dissy incorrectly. So essentially when you replace the sensor you can correct the fault. The funny thing is that means someone has replaced the hall sensor before. Have you decided where to buy one?

From: "'Les Harris' leslieharris@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Cc: 'Hartmut Kiehn' <hartis@live.com.au>; 'Greg Esposito' <gregespo73@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 12:24
Subject: RE: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 
Peter, Greg,
I established #1 cylinder TDC on the firing stroke, which produced the offset position in the distributor drive as illustrated in the diagram.
Hartmut’s distributor, which was pulled off a running MV engine, dropped straight on without any change in the securing bracket position.
The rotor arm aligned with the notch in the distributor body rim and the HT leads were then on the correct side of the distributor cap.
What this tells me is that the dog slot in the distributor drive shaft on Hartmut’s engine is the same as on my engine.  (It is highly improbable that the same drunken baboon got at Hartmut’s engine as well!!) 
It therefore follows that the correct position for all MV engines must be as shown on my diagram.
It further follows that said drunken baboon got the distributor body out of phase by 180 degrees, which resulted in the crossed over HT leads.
After sitting for a couple of weeks, it started in two seconds on the first hit of the starter.  QED!!
Les
(Greg, Yahoo is so greatly overloaded that some messages get lost in the system and take a couple of days to surface again.)
 
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 11:25
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!
 
 
Firstly Les something is wrong with the site as your message has not come through to me or the site. I only happened to notice it on the end of Peters message!
 
What is crucial here is which lead configuration did you use? If you used that reversed setup and it runs on Harts dizzy then the problem is in the drive in the engine. If you corrected the leads and it runs on Harts dizzy then your old dizzy has been assembled wrong. Greg
 
From: "'Peter Schweinsberg' peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 11:13
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!
 
 
Hi Les,
I have to say from the start that despite the number of VWs I have owned, I have never worked on one of their engines.

That said, lets go back to first principals, because I have worked and still work on other engines in my collection.

Provided the engine is assembled correctly and the valve timing is in place and correct:
To time the ignitions:
1. Move the #1 piston to Top Dead Centre. (There are two TDCs, and you have to get the right one. )
2. Check to see that both the inlet and the exhaust valves are closed. (This only happens when you have the right TDC.)
3. Locate the rotor on the distributor to the position where it will be just firing on #1.
4. Reinsert the rotor drive shaft so that it engages with it's drive while the rotor is still in the right place.
It is then just a matter of getting the spark in just the right position which should be very close or near bye.

On a Singer OH cam engine I actually open the valve gaps to about .04" so that they are both just giving me a gap on the cam. This assures me that the cam and the crank shaft are in just the right position and I can now time the distributor.

Hope this helps.
Peter





6
Well done Les and Hart.

Brilliant result.

Amazing you engine ran so well for so long Les - how long ago did the "baboon" attempt a repair on your engine?

Cheers,

Skot

On 18/09/2014 12:24 PM, 'Les Harris' leslieharris@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Peter, Greg,

I established #1 cylinder TDC on the firing stroke, which produced the offset position in the distributor drive as illustrated in the diagram.

Hartmut’s distributor, which was pulled off a running MV engine, dropped straight on without any change in the securing bracket position.

The rotor arm aligned with the notch in the distributor body rim and the HT leads were then on the correct side of the distributor cap.

What this tells me is that the dog slot in the distributor drive shaft on Hartmut’s engine is the same as on my engine.  (It is highly improbable that the same drunken baboon got at Hartmut’s engine as well!!) 

It therefore follows that the correct position for all MV engines must be as shown on my diagram.

It further follows that said drunken baboon got the distributor body out of phase by 180 degrees, which resulted in the crossed over HT leads.

After sitting for a couple of weeks, it started in two seconds on the first hit of the starter.  QED!!

Les

(Greg, Yahoo is so greatly overloaded that some messages get lost in the system and take a couple of days to surface again.)

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 11:25
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

 

Firstly Les something is wrong with the site as your message has not come through to me or the site. I only happened to notice it on the end of Peters message!

 

What is crucial here is which lead configuration did you use? If you used that reversed setup and it runs on Harts dizzy then the problem is in the drive in the engine. If you corrected the leads and it runs on Harts dizzy then your old dizzy has been assembled wrong. Greg

 

From: "'Peter Schweinsberg' peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: "Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 11:13
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

 

Hi Les,
I have to say from the start that despite the number of VWs I have owned, I have never worked on one of their engines.

That said, lets go back to first principals, because I have worked and still work on other engines in my collection.

Provided the engine is assembled correctly and the valve timing is in place and correct:
To time the ignitions:
1. Move the #1 piston to Top Dead Centre. (There are two TDCs, and you have to get the right one. )
2. Check to see that both the inlet and the exhaust valves are closed. (This only happens when you have the right TDC.)
3. Locate the rotor on the distributor to the position where it will be just firing on #1.
4. Reinsert the rotor drive shaft so that it engages with it's drive while the rotor is still in the right place.
It is then just a matter of getting the spark in just the right position which should be very close or near bye.

On a Singer OH cam engine I actually open the valve gaps to about .04" so that they are both just giving me a gap on the cam. This assures me that the cam and the crank shaft are in just the right position and I can now time the distributor.

Hope this helps.
Peter




7
Here are some shopping options Les





From: "spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 12:40
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 
Well done Les and Hart.

Brilliant result.

Amazing you engine ran so well for so long Les - how long ago did the "baboon" attempt a repair on your engine?

Cheers,

Skot

On 18/09/2014 12:24 PM, 'Les Harris' leslieharris@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 
Peter, Greg,
I established #1 cylinder TDC on the firing stroke, which produced the offset position in the distributor drive as illustrated in the diagram.
Hartmut’s distributor, which was pulled off a running MV engine, dropped straight on without any change in the securing bracket position.
The rotor arm aligned with the notch in the distributor body rim and the HT leads were then on the correct side of the distributor cap.
What this tells me is that the dog slot in the distributor drive shaft on Hartmut’s engine is the same as on my engine.  (It is highly improbable that the same drunken baboon got at Hartmut’s engine as well!!) 
It therefore follows that the correct position for all MV engines must be as shown on my diagram.
It further follows that said drunken baboon got the distributor body out of phase by 180 degrees, which resulted in the crossed over HT leads.
After sitting for a couple of weeks, it started in two seconds on the first hit of the starter.  QED!!
Les
(Greg, Yahoo is so greatly overloaded that some messages get lost in the system and take a couple of days to surface again.)
 
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 11:25
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!
 
 
Firstly Les something is wrong with the site as your message has not come through to me or the site. I only happened to notice it on the end of Peters message!
 
What is crucial here is which lead configuration did you use? If you used that reversed setup and it runs on Harts dizzy then the problem is in the drive in the engine. If you corrected the leads and it runs on Harts dizzy then your old dizzy has been assembled wrong. Greg
 
From: "'Peter Schweinsberg' peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
To: mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 11:13
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!
 
 
Hi Les,
I have to say from the start that despite the number of VWs I have owned, I have never worked on one of their engines.

That said, lets go back to first principals, because I have worked and still work on other engines in my collection.

Provided the engine is assembled correctly and the valve timing is in place and correct:
To time the ignitions:
1. Move the #1 piston to Top Dead Centre. (There are two TDCs, and you have to get the right one. )
2. Check to see that both the inlet and the exhaust valves are closed. (This only happens when you have the right TDC.)
3. Locate the rotor on the distributor to the position where it will be just firing on #1.
4. Reinsert the rotor drive shaft so that it engages with it's drive while the rotor is still in the right place.
It is then just a matter of getting the spark in just the right position which should be very close or near bye.

On a Singer OH cam engine I actually open the valve gaps to about .04" so that they are both just giving me a gap on the cam. This assures me that the cam and the crank shaft are in just the right position and I can now time the distributor.

Hope this helps.
Peter






8

Greg,

One of the best resources is on your doorstep – John Goodison at Volks Home in Thomastown.  Apart from being a Volkswagen man forever and being the Tech Officer of the VW Club of Victoria , John is very insistent on stocking the best parts that he can find, preferably OEM, and is well known for knocking back cheap copies.  If cheap copies are the only thing available, he simply won’t stock them.

So, my first port of call for parts is always John. 

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 13:05
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

 

Here are some shopping options Les

 

 

 

 

 

From: "spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 12:40
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

 

Well done Les and Hart.

Brilliant result.

Amazing you engine ran so well for so long Les - how long ago did the "baboon" attempt a repair on your engine?

Cheers,

Skot

On 18/09/2014 12:24 PM, 'Les Harris' leslieharris@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

 

Peter, Greg,

I established #1 cylinder TDC on the firing stroke, which produced the offset position in the distributor drive as illustrated in the diagram.

Hartmut’s distributor, which was pulled off a running MV engine, dropped straight on without any change in the securing bracket position.

The rotor arm aligned with the notch in the distributor body rim and the HT leads were then on the correct side of the distributor cap.

What this tells me is that the dog slot in the distributor drive shaft on Hartmut’s engine is the same as on my engine.  (It is highly improbable that the same drunken baboon got at Hartmut’s engine as well!!) 

It therefore follows that the correct position for all MV engines must be as shown on my diagram.

It further follows that said drunken baboon got the distributor body out of phase by 180 degrees, which resulted in the crossed over HT leads.

After sitting for a couple of weeks, it started in two seconds on the first hit of the starter.  QED!!

Les

(Greg, Yahoo is so greatly overloaded that some messages get lost in the system and take a couple of days to surface again.)

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 11:25
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

 

Firstly Les something is wrong with the site as your message has not come through to me or the site. I only happened to notice it on the end of Peters message!

 

What is crucial here is which lead configuration did you use? If you used that reversed setup and it runs on Harts dizzy then the problem is in the drive in the engine. If you corrected the leads and it runs on Harts dizzy then your old dizzy has been assembled wrong. Greg

 

From: "'Peter Schweinsberg' peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
To: mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 11:13
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 

 

Hi Les,
I have to say from the start that despite the number of VWs I have owned, I have never worked on one of their engines.

That said, lets go back to first principals, because I have worked and still work on other engines in my collection.

Provided the engine is assembled correctly and the valve timing is in place and correct:
To time the ignitions:
1. Move the #1 piston to Top Dead Centre. (There are two TDCs, and you have to get the right one. )
2. Check to see that both the inlet and the exhaust valves are closed. (This only happens when you have the right TDC.)
3. Locate the rotor on the distributor to the position where it will be just firing on #1.
4. Reinsert the rotor drive shaft so that it engages with it's drive while the rotor is still in the right place.
It is then just a matter of getting the spark in just the right position which should be very close or near bye.

On a Singer OH cam engine I actually open the valve gaps to about .04" so that they are both just giving me a gap on the cam. This assures me that the cam and the crank shaft are in just the right position and I can now time the distributor.

Hope this helps.
Peter


 

 

9
Yes I have met John. I sold him a new syncro (Passat)! As long as you don't mind paying the premium that guys like John will charge, you do get the benefit of their experience. Since you will want to be getting mobile asap it is probably the best solution. Interestingly that new style one from brickwerks seems to have a bosch logo on it. Not expensive either. Greg 

From: "'Les Harris' leslieharris@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 13:18
Subject: RE: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

 
Greg,
One of the best resources is on your doorstep – John Goodison at Volks Home in Thomastown.  Apart from being a Volkswagen man forever and being the Tech Officer of the VW Club of Victoria , John is very insistent on stocking the best parts that he can find, preferably OEM, and is well known for knocking back cheap copies.  If cheap copies are the only thing available, he simply won’t stock them.
So, my first port of call for parts is always John. 
Les


From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 13:05
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!
 
 
Here are some shopping options Les
 
 
 
 
 
From: "spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 12:40
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!
 
 
Well done Les and Hart.

Brilliant result.

Amazing you engine ran so well for so long Les - how long ago did the "baboon" attempt a repair on your engine?

Cheers,

Skot

On 18/09/2014 12:24 PM, 'Les Harris' leslieharris@optusnet.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 
Peter, Greg,
I established #1 cylinder TDC on the firing stroke, which produced the offset position in the distributor drive as illustrated in the diagram.
Hartmut’s distributor, which was pulled off a running MV engine, dropped straight on without any change in the securing bracket position.
The rotor arm aligned with the notch in the distributor body rim and the HT leads were then on the correct side of the distributor cap.
What this tells me is that the dog slot in the distributor drive shaft on Hartmut’s engine is the same as on my engine.  (It is highly improbable that the same drunken baboon got at Hartmut’s engine as well!!) 
It therefore follows that the correct position for all MV engines must be as shown on my diagram.
It further follows that said drunken baboon got the distributor body out of phase by 180 degrees, which resulted in the crossed over HT leads.
After sitting for a couple of weeks, it started in two seconds on the first hit of the starter.  QED!!
Les
(Greg, Yahoo is so greatly overloaded that some messages get lost in the system and take a couple of days to surface again.)
 
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 11:25
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!
 
 
Firstly Les something is wrong with the site as your message has not come through to me or the site. I only happened to notice it on the end of Peters message!
 
What is crucial here is which lead configuration did you use? If you used that reversed setup and it runs on Harts dizzy then the problem is in the drive in the engine. If you corrected the leads and it runs on Harts dizzy then your old dizzy has been assembled wrong. Greg
 
From: "'Peter Schweinsberg' peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
To: mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 18 September 2014, 11:13
Subject: Re: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!
 
 
Hi Les,
I have to say from the start that despite the number of VWs I have owned, I have never worked on one of their engines.

That said, lets go back to first principals, because I have worked and still work on other engines in my collection.

Provided the engine is assembled correctly and the valve timing is in place and correct:
To time the ignitions:
1. Move the #1 piston to Top Dead Centre. (There are two TDCs, and you have to get the right one. )
2. Check to see that both the inlet and the exhaust valves are closed. (This only happens when you have the right TDC.)
3. Locate the rotor on the distributor to the position where it will be just firing on #1.
4. Reinsert the rotor drive shaft so that it engages with it's drive while the rotor is still in the right place.
It is then just a matter of getting the spark in just the right position which should be very close or near bye.

On a Singer OH cam engine I actually open the valve gaps to about .04" so that they are both just giving me a gap on the cam. This assures me that the cam and the crank shaft are in just the right position and I can now time the distributor.

Hope this helps.
Peter


 
 


10
Les. Great news. And even more satisfying getting it done without the $100 an hour vw workshop bill. Having said that these hall senders are a bugger to fit. I'd be speaking to your trusted vw workshop and see if you could send them your dissy to have the sender fitted. Sure its a great releaf.Bill
11

Bill,

This experience will result in me carrying a spare distributor!!  In the first instance, I will try John Goodison (Volks Home).  There are no half measures with John; you never get “try this, it might work”, you get known good quality and unquestioning back-up.   He might be a bit more expensive but I am willing to pay for his experience and his top level service.

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 18 September 2014 15:49
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Silly Question Time!!

Les. Great news. And even more satisfying getting it done without the $100 an hour vw workshop bill. Having said that these hall senders are a bugger to fit. I'd be speaking to your trusted vw workshop and see if you could send them your dissy to have the sender fitted. Sure its a great releaf.Bill