Gear linkage

1

Hi all,

Doing a little work to the Syncro finally.

After the gear changes were getting a little awkward recently, I noticed the linkage into the gear box had come loose, so tightened that up, so everything was good again. In the process decided to go through the rest. I have replaced the little plastic tabs on the front of the linkage (that select the gear gates). The bush and "ball" at the gear box although are fine, I will replace with new while I have it all apart and greasing it up.

My question though, the manual shows a bush mid way in the linkage (just forward of the universal joint). Has anyone replaced this? I can see the flange in mine where it runs through a panel, but does not look large enough to have a bush in there?


The universal and bush at the front (where the plastic tabs are) show no wear in mine, so will not replace them. Also the ball under the gear lever also has no play, so will leave that as is.


Hopefully I will be changing very slick once it's all done.

Next step, looks like my thermostat is not closing fully, so have a new one to install there also. Are these common parts to fail open?

I assume the oring there is best installed with no gasket goo?


Thanks,

Richard

2

Hi Richard. I have had my gearbox done for the second time in 18 months and have been having fun getting it to shift properly. Awaiting delivery of a pair of those plastic shift bushings for the forks before going through the whole process of adjustment again. I ordered a pair from t3technique in the USA. I have replaced the bush and bellows at the gearbox end of the shaft and will do the front one when I tackle the shift bushings. But there is certainly a bush there and I have attached a schematic from Just Kampers that shows them all. Not saying they are the best place to get the bushings but their diagram is useful.

Cheers, Peter from Port

 

http://jk-uk-cdn.justkampers.com/media/parts-diagrams/447.jpg

3

Thanks Peter, the one from T3Tech looks the same as the one I got from Van-café. I noticed the one from go westy does not have the dowel pins, so relies just on the epoxy to mount. I also notice the kit comes with aluminum pins (original pins I removed were plastic)

From what I can see these shift bushings help to narrow the gates for each gear. If you change carefully you could survive without them, it's the bushings along the shift rod to the back that help keep everything in place. I assume as the bushings along the shift rod wear you need more movement from the gear lever to get each gear, and that ends up damaging these guides.

On the diagram, part 251-711-207/E is easy to see (next to gear box). It also shows two items 251-711-207/D, can't say I know where these are on the Syncro?

I guess when I fully remove the shift rod they will show up. Also the joint in the shift rod (spline just forward of universal joint 251-711-551) I was not able to separate, and as it's a fine spline would be difficult to line up exactly afterwards.


Yes the correct adjustment is not easy to set up correctly, mine so far all seems good, so hopefully these new parts will only make it better.

Keep in mind if your gear box/engine mounts allow them to float a little, particularly under load it can affect your gear changes similar to worn bushes.


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <peter@...> wrote :

Hi Richard. I have had my gearbox done for the second time in 18 months and have been having fun getting it to shift properly. Awaiting delivery of a pair of those plastic shift bushings for the forks before going through the whole process of adjustment again. I ordered a pair from t3technique in the USA. I have replaced the bush and bellows at the gearbox end of the shaft and will do the front one when I tackle the shift bushings. But there is certainly a bush there and I have attached a schematic from Just Kampers that shows them all. Not saying they are the best place to get the bushings but their diagram is useful.

Cheers, Peter from Port

 

http://jk-uk-cdn.justkampers.com/media/parts-diagrams/447.jpg

4

Richard. The diagram is a bit misleading. The part shown between the two bellows at the back has to be the thinner 251-711-207/E otherwise the two bellows won’t fit. I think the other part shown, 207-711-207/D was used in normal T3’s or was an early version of the joint that did not require the bellows. However 207-711-207/D is the part that is used at the front where the shaft goes through a metal plate. Re the spline it’s a good idea to scribe the joint as you always want a starting position to come back to if you are going to move it.

The shifter kit from GoWesty is made with a 3D printer and I believe the plastic is not as good quality as the T3Technique one which uses Delrin. Check out these notes http://t3technique.com/t3-research-notes/note-6.html

I don’t know much about the Van Café ones but good that you have replaced the old ones.

Peter

5

Thanks for all the info Peter,

I have one of the 207E and two of the 207D's coming, so should have enough to sort it out. I see Van-café and Go Westy offer a version of the 207E bush that is harder and less prone to wear and does not require the boot's. I have stuck with the stock one and boot's. I assume mine is still original and does not have a huge amount of wear, so happy to just replace as required in the future. The 207D bush looks the same as the ones used in the T2's

Yes, will definitely be marking the spline, just not sure how I will pull it apart (did not budge on the week end)

Thanks on the Go Westy info, Van-café source from the same company in the UK as T3Tech.

I have let the epoxy set on mine for a couple of days, so have yet to drive it, but I will replace the thermostat first I think so the engine heats up correctly seeing the cold is setting in in Brissy.


Just curious Peter, why have you replaced your GB after 18mths? Was there an issue with the re-build?

I guess I have been lucky as the more I work on my Bus, the more I see how well it was cared for from new, everything I work on is very clean and mostly untouched from the factory. Mine came from Alice Springs and must have spent it's life on bitumen roads.


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <peter@...> wrote :

Richard. The diagram is a bit misleading. The part shown between the two bellows at the back has to be the thinner 251-711-207/E otherwise the two bellows won’t fit. I think the other part shown, 207-711-207/D was used in normal T3’s or was an early version of the joint that did not require the bellows. However 207-711-207/D is the part that is used at the front where the shaft goes through a metal plate. Re the spline it’s a good idea to scribe the joint as you always want a starting position to come back to if you are going to move it.

The shifter kit from GoWesty is made with a 3D printer and I believe the plastic is not as good quality as the T3Technique one which uses Delrin. Check out these notes http://t3technique.com/t3-research-notes/note-6.html

I don’t know much about the Van Café ones but good that you have replaced the old ones.

Peter

6

Hi all,

Gave the linkage an adjustment today. With the new guides at the front, first was a little hard to find. A slight adjustment (per the Bentley manual) and all is good. Just waiting on all the new bushes to replace them as well now.

Also replaced the thermostat, luckily only ~1 cup of coolant came out, so was quick and easy to re-bleed. It heats up normal again, just in time for winter :)

Richard