Hall sender

Morning all. Has anyone fitted a new hall sender lately. I know they are a bit tricky and if you don't get it right you can damage the dizzy . It would be a good skill to have, to be able to fit one on the side of the road when out the back a buggery. Much less space to carry a sender than a Dizzy in the spares box. Thanks . Bill
  I've fitted a couple over the years, it was a straightforward job.

  It's a lot easier if you remove the distributor from the van. Quite a simple job - just set #1 piston to TDC first, and put the keys in your pocket so no-one can turn over the engine while you're away.

  Don't disturb the 10mm clamp bolt and the ignition timing won't be affected.

  Merely remove the distributor cap and the low-tension wires to the hall sender, undo the 13mm nut holding the clamp to the crankcase, and lift out he dissy.

  Just follow the instructions in the workshop manual.

  I always order a new distributor shaft "O" ring as these are a common cause of oil seepage when they get old.

Genuine German ones are the best.

  While you've got the distributor out, check the end play [12 thou], and replace the shims if necessary. Shims are available from any good auto-spares or engineering supplier.

  I am amazed at how many people recondition an engine without overhauling the distributor. It's a simple job that can be done in less than an hour.

  From memory, there are two types of Hall sender fitted to 'early' and 'late' distributors, but they can be modified to fit either distributor.

  Cheers, Roger.

I've been told to carry a spare dizzy.


> Bill <marg_bill@westnet.com.au> wrote:
> Morning all. Has anyone fitted a new hall sender lately. I know they are
> a bit tricky and if you don't get it right you can damage the dizzy . It
> would be a good skill to have, to be able to fit one on the side of the
> road when out the back a buggery. Much less space to carry a sender than
> a Dizzy in the spares box. Thanks . Bill
Roger. Thanks for that. I COULDN't find any detailed instructions in the bentleys. Is this the workshop manual you refer to? I generally remove the dissy from my spare van to take on long trips but this gets to be a bit of a hassle. Bill
G'day Bill -
                   I just went down to the shed to have a look. My version of the Bentley manual is pretty old [1989], but it has an exploded diagram of the distributor on page 28.40.

  I remove the distributor and clamp it upside down in a vice with aluminium covers over the jaws.

  Measure the wear in the shims by placing a feeler gauge between the clutch collar and the shims at the bottom of the distributor body. [Maximum slop 12 thou.]

  Scribe a mark on the bottom of the shaft next to the offset tangs on the clutch collar, so that you can replace it the same way. Otherwise you have a 50:50 chance of getting it wrong. You know what they say about buttered toast landing on the carpet.

Remove the spiral retaining spring with a hook pick and clean the groove with your mother-in-law's toothbrush.

  Drive out the retaining pin with a pin punch. [I clamp angle-iron in the vice to do this, edge uppermost and furthest away, and support the collar-tangs on the edge of the angle-iron to minimise the risk of bending the shaft]. Tap with a light hammer and the pin will fall safely into the angle-iron. This requires a third hand or a beer-belly to hold the dizzy while wielding hammer and punch.

  Don't ask your mother-in-law to swing the hammer.

  Dismantle shims and washers and remove the shaft, placing the components on the bench in the order that you removed them. Be careful with the fragile plastic washers.

  Clean and inspect everything over a cup of coffee.

  Wobble the shaft from side to side. If there is any slop, the distributor will need re-bushing. [This is not usually a problem].

  Replace the Hall sensor by undoing a few screws. They are usually pretty tight [loctited?] so I support the unit in the vice and give the screwdriver a sharp rap before attempting to undo them.  

  Reassemble the unit with a few drops of engine oil on the shaft.

  Spin the shaft to make sure the carasel clears the sender unit. Modern sets of feeler gauges have a brass blade to check this clearance.

  This is the time to replace the shims if necessary.

  Reassemble shims, plastic washers, clutch collar [referring to scribe mark], pin and spiral retaining spring.

  Replace rubber 'O' ring.

  Refit distributor to vehicle and test drive to the nearest pub.

The part number on my old Hall Sender was Bosch 1 230 329 049.

The one I used to replace it was a Bosch unit on special a few years ago from VanCafe, p/n 1 237 010 039, Bosch p/n 1 237 031 296, marked "Impulse sensor T4/Golf II 030 905 065".

  From memory, it was slightly different in the base-plate mounting and I had to tap another 3mm or 4mm thread into an existing hole to secure it.

  It has worked perfectly ever since.

  All this might be a bit of a hassle in the dark beside the Old Telegraph Track, so [as Phill says] it would be easier to carry a complete spare dizzy. You could probably get a second-hand one from a wreckers for less than the price of a new Hall sender.

  Please check part numbers before ordering in case I got them wrong.

  If you are ordering shims in advance, get three or four different thicknesses, 13mm to 14mm i.d., 24 to 25mm i.d.

  Happy tinkering,






The first thing i'm going to do is print a copy of your excellent instructions and staple them in my bentleys at 28.4. Second thing , my wife is flying to sydney tomorrow to visit her mum so she can pick up the required cleaning tool. I think the last hall sender i had fitted was installed 180 degrees out as i had to move the plug leads 180 deg to get it to run. Seems the shaft wasn't marged before dismantling. My sender should arrive tomorrow from justkampers so will report back. Thanks again Roger. Bill
No worries Bill,
                         this exchange of ideas has made me ponder the wisdom of carrying a spare hall sender, dizzy cap and rotor button in my spares crate, along with the tools and the aluminium vise required to install the sender.

  Just think how much weight, space and fuel we could save by not carrying tools and spares.

  Then again, the day I leave them behind is the day that I'll need them.

  Reminds me of the time I took the tirfor winch out of the van. Got bogged a few days later and spent the next six hours jacking, corduroying and cursing the rain.

It was Grand Final night, too.

  The irony was that my mate was driving my old T2 ute. He got bogged too, but only half as deep - it was a lot easier to dig out, and in only half the time.

  There's a moral in there somewhere.

                                                       Cheers, Roger [Beetle].

Roger and all. I used Rogers instructions to install the hall sender and all went well. A warning when ordering sender from justkampers aust. They have their senders mixed up on their web site. I Received what i think a t4 sender listed as t3. I have sent Simon at jk photos of the correct sender and hopefully he will sort it for future orders.
If i had to i could probably change a sender on the side of the road with a good punch and something to steady it on, but a dizzy with a new sender fitted would be far better. TKS Bill.