Head stud problems

1

Hi All,

Just hoping some own can help me with ever reoccurring problem.  I’m pulling down an engine that has not been looked after in the coolant department (and others). Hence the studs are badly pitted and one has broken (see attached photo).  Has anyone got a successfully method of removing these stud?  I also have another case where they have helicoiled every head stud.  As a result one of the studs will not pull up to torque.  On an air cooled engine I would normally use a case saver.  However they are much larger in diameter then a helicoil and would require narrowing the barrel seating surface.  What are people doing to repair damaged thread on head studs?  Any comments would be appreciated.

 

PS. Have a Happy New Year

Cheers,

 

Michael Roberts


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2
It's a common problem and an inexpensive specialist repair.



> Michael Roberts <type500@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> Just hoping some own can help me with ever reoccurring problem.� I�m
> pulling down an engine that has not been looked after in the coolant
> department (and others). Hence the studs are badly pitted and one has
> broken (see attached photo).� Has anyone got a successfully method of
> removing these stud?� I also have another case where they have
> helicoiled every head stud.� As a result one of the studs will not pull
> up to torque.� On an air cooled engine I would normally use a case
> saver.� However they are much larger in diameter then a helicoil and
> would require narrowing the barrel seating surface.� What are people
> doing to repair damaged thread on head studs?� Any comments would be
> appreciated.
> �
> PS. Have a Happy New Year
> Cheers,
> �
> Michael Roberts
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Instant Messaging, free SMS, sharing photos and more... Try the new
> Yahoo! Canada Messenger at http://ca.beta.messenger.yahoo.com/
3
Michael,
 
I know that Volkspower have developed procedures over the years to extract these studs.  The last time this came up in conversation with them, Dean said that they are able to successfully remove 98% of them, successful meaning that the female thread remains undamaged and a new stud can be screwed in.  The remaining 2% can be dealt with by spark erosion, also successful because the female thread is not touched in the process.  I did not ask what techinques were being used, so I can't be of any help to you.
 
Dean makes the point that the reason for failure is always the same - the wrong coolant but more usually people using plain water.  Corrosion is the inevitable outcome, followed by stud failure.  While the engine is apart, it is always a good idea to replace the lot.  For the benefit of our less technically inclined members, it goes without saying that the specified coolant must always be used.
 
Les
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 1:33 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Head stud problems

Hi All,

Just hoping some own can help me with ever reoccurring problem.  I’m pulling down an engine that has not been looked after in the coolant department (and others). Hence the studs are badly pitted and one has broken (see attached photo).  Has anyone got a successfully method of removing these stud?  I also have another case where they have helicoiled every head stud.  As a result one of the studs will not pull up to torque.  On an air cooled engine I would normally use a case saver.  However they are much larger in diameter then a helicoil and would require narrowing the barrel seating surface.  What are people doing to repair damaged thread on head studs?  Any comments would be appreciated.

PS. Have a Happy New Year

Cheers,

Michael Roberts


Reclaim your name @ymail.com or @rocketmail. com. Get your new email address now!

4
Michael,
 
As Phill says, specialist and inexpensive. 
 
It's something that I would not contemplate doing myself.  I would take it to someone for whom this is a routine process.
 
Les
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Head stud problems

> It's a common problem and an inexpensive specialist repair.
>
>
>
>> Michael Roberts <
href="mailto:type500@yahoo.com">type500@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>> Just hoping some own can
help me with ever reoccurring problem. I¢m
>> pulling down an engine
that has not been looked after in the coolant
>> department (and
others). Hence the studs are badly pitted and one has
>> broken (see
attached photo). Has anyone got a successfully method of
>> removing
these stud? I also have another case where they have
>> helicoiled
every head stud. As a result one of the studs will not pull
>> up to
torque. On an air cooled engine I would normally use a case
>> saver.
However they are much larger in diameter then a helicoil and
>> would
require narrowing the barrel seating surface. What are people
>> doing
to repair damaged thread on head studs? Any comments would be
>>
appreciated.
>>
>> PS. Have a Happy New Year
>>
Cheers,
>>
>> Michael Roberts
>>
>>
>>      
__________________________________________________________________
>>
Instant Messaging, free SMS, sharing photos and more... Try the new
>>
Yahoo! Canada Messenger at http://ca.beta.messenger.yahoo.com/
>
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5
I know New Year's Day is not a good time to be remembering things but I seem to remember my mechanic showing me a 1.9l engine with highly corroded studs and saying that if all else failed they had to send them out for extraction by the eroded spark method at a cost of $150 per stud. "Inexpensive" is of course relative to one bank balance.
My mechanic was simply trying to emphasise the point you all make on the importance of using the correct non corrosive coolant. I had a water pump fail when in WA and the non VW mechanic who replaced it was supposed to  also order in the correct coolant but tried to convince me that an ordinary one was just as good. (I had used up what I was carrying getting back to civilisation). I opted for filling up with distilled water until I changed it on my return to Melbourne which I was able to do without any apparent ill effects.(My temp. gauge rarely gets beyond half way even when crossing the Nullabor or working hard on the Cape York trip.
Do you Les or Phil have an opinion on the lesser of evils when in the situation of no VW approved coolant available? - would you go for the wrong coolant; distilled water or ordinary water to get you home? Obviously the sooner the correct coolant is restored the better.
I'm still running green coolant made by Bilstein in Germany, labelled anti corrosive. Before going to Cape York I bought a further 1.5l undiluted which is anticorrosive and nitrite free and made for BMW. It remains unopened so I do not know if it is the new purple colour but I was told it was compatible with what I'm running and the previous supply was no longer available.
Roger
--- On Thu, 1/1/09, Les Harris <leslieharris@optushome.com.au> wrote:

From: Les Harris <leslieharris@optushome.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Head stud problems
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Thursday, 1 January, 2009, 11:38 AM

Michael,
 
As Phill says, specialist and inexpensive. 
 
It's something that I would not contemplate doing myself.  I would take it to someone for whom this is a routine process.
 
Les
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Head stud problems

> It's a common problem and an inexpensive specialist repair.
>
>
>
>> Michael Roberts <type500@yahoo. com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>> Just hoping some own can help me with ever reoccurring problem. I¢m
>> pulling down an engine that has not been looked after in the coolant
>> department (and others). Hence the studs are badly pitted and one has
>> broken (see attached photo). Has anyone got a successfully method of
>> removing these stud? I also have another case where they have
>> helicoiled every head stud. As a result one of the studs will not pull
>> up to torque. On an air cooled engine I would normally use a case
>> saver. However they are much larger in diameter then a helicoil and
>> would require narrowing the barrel seating surface. What are people
>> doing to repair damaged thread on head studs? Any comments would be
>> appreciated.
>>
>> PS. Have a Happy New Year
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Michael Roberts
>>
>>
>>       ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________
>> Instant Messaging, free SMS, sharing photos and more... Try the new
>> Yahoo! Canada Messenger at http://ca.beta. messenger. yahoo.com/
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6
> Do you Les or Phil have an opinion on the lesser of evils when in the
> situation of no VW approved coolant available?��- would you go for the
> wrong coolant; distilled water or ordinary water to get you home?

I would go distilled water to get me home.


> I'm still running green coolant made by Bilstein in Germany,

That doesn't sound good. It could be G10

Phill
7
Yes alarm bells start ringing for me too whenever anyone starts talking
about green coloured coolant in a syncro.

This is not necessarily confirming head stud corrosion, could well be
something else, but at the very least, check the expansion bottle for
rusty coloured particles laying in there on the bottom? If there is,
then the coolant system may need some further investigation, remedial
action AND change to G12+ coolant up to 50-50 mix ratio asap. Good luck.

Cheers.

Ken

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
>
>
> > Do you Les or Phil have an opinion on the lesser of evils when in
the
> > situation of no VW approved coolant available? - would you go
for the
> > wrong coolant; distilled water or ordinary water to get you home?
>
> I would go distilled water to get me home.
>
>
> > I'm still running green coolant made by Bilstein in Germany,
>
> That doesn't sound good. It could be G10
>
> Phill
>
8
Thanks for your concern fellows -checking again its more blue than green and no sign of any rust. Both containers say they are nitrite free but don't mention any G numbers which I presume are VW OEM.
Am off to Tassie in a few hours but hope Bateman's Bay goes ahead for those planning to attend and is at least as enjoyable as last time. How's Pete's problems progressing?
Cheers
Roger
--- On Fri, 2/1/09, Ken <unclekenz@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Ken <unclekenz@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Head stud problems
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Received: Friday, 2 January, 2009, 4:36 PM


Yes alarm bells start ringing for me too whenever anyone starts talking
about green coloured coolant in a syncro.

This is not necessarily confirming head stud corrosion, could well be
something else, but at the very least, check the expansion bottle for
rusty coloured particles laying in there on the bottom? If there is,
then the coolant system may need some further investigation, remedial
action AND change to G12+ coolant up to 50-50 mix ratio asap. Good luck.

Cheers.

Ken

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com, plander@... wrote:
>
>
>
> > Do you Les or Phil have an opinion on the lesser of evils when in
the
> > situation of no VW approved coolant available? - would you go
for the
> > wrong coolant; distilled water or ordinary water to get you home?
>
> I would go distilled water to get me home.
>
>
> > I'm still running green coolant made by Bilstein in Germany,
>
> That doesn't sound good. It could be G10
>
> Phill
>


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