Hi all,
I’ve noticed, on a long drive on a hot day, that all the ‘fresh’ air coming into the van though the venting system is very hot - much hotter than expected. So I wondered: if there a way to check / service the heater control and the heater valve to find out it it’s closing properly and not allowing hot coolant into the heater matrix?
Separately, on same long hot ride I noticed the heat refraction from a very hot road makes the underside of the van super hot, so much so it’s too hot for bare feet in the front cab. Has anyone done any additional floor insulation, and if so, how?
Thanks in advance
Gaetan
Hi Gaetan,
I have this issue in my 2wd project van. The heater still runs slightly when off fully - great in winter but not so welcome in summer as you have noticed.
Hey at least you know it works and is helping to cool your engine - just not you.
My local mate installed a tap to the coolant line which shuts off during the warmer months. He fitted this just above the spare wheel well but to get to it he needs to lower the spare wheel.
He said however, that he would have been better off hiding it behind the plastic heater shield as it would be much easier to access.
Im lucky my syncro or my main 2wd daily driver doesn’t have the issue.
Im not planning to sort out the 2wd project slight heater on issue either. The next owner can do that!
Fellows,
Close the slider to cold
Take the spare wheel out, lay on the clamshell and look straight up. That’s where you will find the valve.
Undo the spring clip
Position the cable to where the valve is closed
Put the clip back on
Done
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Brilliant thanks Nils, I shall have a go at it this arvo!
Gaetan
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Might give that a try too.
I didnt think that was adjustable…
I had the same issue on mine, ej25 was already installed. I tried changing the heater valve but the problem remained. What it needed was a small by pass hose between the in and out heater hoses as they leave the engine bay, imagine a H pattern.
The hot water then takes the path of least resistance via the smaller bypass hose instead of trying to push past the heater valve at full pressure.
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That sounds like a great solution Uwe. Did you cut the heater hoses to add T pieces for the bypass hose?
Also did you add a valve on the bypass hose to be able to close it in winter when you want the hot water to only go to heater matrix, or not bother?
Yes, cut both hoses and put in T pieces for the bypass hose with no valve needed. The heater works well at all settings.
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