Phill and ALL,
Yes it seems to be a dilemma for many syncronauts pleading "why me?" when it comes to unexpected loose, lost and/or damage done as a consequence of miscreant CV bolts.
The reliable solution as described to me by someone whose experience I respect is essentially as follows ...
1. Anally, ALL affected mating surfaces, bolts, plates, washers MUST first be scrupulously inspected and cleaned before rebuild. If it's all not "eat your dinner off it" equivalent, then the prep surfaces are still unacceptable!
2. ONLY use/re-use genuine AND undamaged CV bolts. Despite what may be said officially, experience dictates that used genuine bolts visually inspected and found to be undamaged/unstressed are quite satisfactory. So much so, he said anyone reluctant to re-use genuine used and undamaged CV bolts, please send them to him, thank you!
3. MUST install the special grip washers as were originally installed on the CV bolts. For peace of mind, replace with new. Alternately, closely eyeball used ones, only re-use ones which are still in good condition ... ones that look suspiciously like they have lost their "bite", then replace. I understand, some service people remove/lose/forget these washers.
4. As a bolt group, evenly and progressively in stages, tighten bolts to spec with a torque wrench. Finally, double check all torqued bolts.
5. Never use locktite or equivalent on CV bolts, do the work correctly instead for reliability and longevity.
6. Anyone using locktite on CV bolts are either ignorant, inexperienced or sloppy or all three.
Cheers.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: <
plander@optusnet.com.au>
Sent: Sunday, 22 November 2009 10:42 AM
To:
Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Inner CV Tool
After years of working on rally cars, where everything that can come loose does, I have a fetish about locktite. Well I had an Audi A3 and I thought those M5 screws holding the number plate on look like they may rattle loose, so I used some heavy duty railway grade locktite. Anyhow while I was in Queensland, I decided to trade the A3 in on a TT and swap the plates over. Well to undo one of the philps head scews I pushed on a well fitting screwdriver while my assistant turned it with lock grips. After about 20 minutes the screw was removed. The other scew however refused to budge and was eventually removed by the Audi dealer.
Now this has me worried when VW say to use D6 locking compound on the front axle spline after all of the dramas I have had removing it. What is D6? Should I use locktite or neversieze?
Phill
> Les Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:
>
> This reminds me that Greg missed telling the group one of the aspects of
> his
> CV joint failure on his way back from Cairns - it involved someone using
> silicone sealant on the joint!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Greg, please fill us in on this.
>
> Les
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hdvwoc
> Sent: 22 November 2009 10:00
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Inner CV Tool
>
>
>
>
>
> I've just found that Supercheap Auto (not a place that I normally shop
> at) has 600mm 1/2" drive socket extension bars. This is great for
> reaching the inner CV bolts. This makes it much easier to use a tension
> wrench instead of trying to find space under the car.
>
> It appears to be a common problem the CV bolts coming loose. I have have
> spoken to a few VW mechanics who say that it never happens to correctly
> tensioned bolts so I think there may be a problem with dipsticks trying
> to use allen keys instead of proper tools.