Ben,
The distributor seems a bit odd and still the cause as when
the mechanic puts an LED strobe on the power from the sensor it seems to get
the engine working. Maybe this shorts something out or bypasses
something.
Anyway, what happened to him was he puts the new sensor on -
it doesn't work (even though it is a matching part # it ha been superseded 3 x
- its 20 years old now) so it has the optical sensor above but it doesn't seem
to have one at the back of the sensor like the old one.
Then he installs the old one puts the LED strobe on and it
starts. This LED strobe whilst it does slightly earth it is a very weak earth
and would not be sufficient to override a normal earth.
The problem is strange it has full power and idles, purrs,
doesn't miss a beat then suddenly it cuts out completely. The mechanic said he
was giving it a fair bit when it cut out on him - he didn't realise how much
power it had in the higher revs. He towed it back, put the strobe on and it
fired up again.
When it does die it will crank over (has a brand new
ignition switch in the steering column) at full starter speed, all power
lights on the dash work as normal, the computer lights up, engine bay monitor
lights up as well - but no spark at all. The coil is getting power but is not
switching. The fuel pump is controlled by the ignition switch I think as it
will pump (you can hear it) as soon as the ignition is switched on. This still
pumps.
So this arvo, I managed to drive the car home under its own
steam with the mechanic following and get it in my garage (out of his way as
he has limited room and another 4 non working kombis to get in his shed). He
then removed the distributor and will send it down to AFI in Sydney for a
rebuild which they said they have done several of. They have the best testing
equipment to ensure it works 100% before it leaves.
I will call Microtech tomorrow and see if they have seen a
similar problem or could diagnose it as I have the computer reader in the
car.
We have checked what we think is all the earths but I guess
you never know. Now I have the syncro back in my garage I will get under it
and check everything I can again. Still very muddy from the Plommer Rd
adventure under there so I will probably wear a fair bit of nth coast
mud.
I will report back if I find anything.
Cheers,
Skot
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:12
PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] no
news is good news??
Skot,I was going to add last night,that if it runs on the old parts,then
your looking at another issue.You have an after market ecu right,does it
need to be earthed?Check that.Then be in contact with the manufacturer of
the ECU.They will be more help than some 'suby experts' on your
er27.Mechanics in Oz will say what is that?
When it breaks down do you
have any spark?Do you have reds and are still able to crank over with
starter?
Does it just cut out then nothing,or loose power then die?
Is
the fuel pump controlled by the ecu?
Check all your earths and add some
if you believe there isnt enough.
Check you battery terminals.
I know
this all sounds too easy to be the problem,but chances are it is somthing
real small,after all it has been running sweet as a suby in a
vanagon(forgive the pun) for over ten years.
BenC
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,
"Mr Scott Pitcher" <spbconsulting@...> wrote:
>
> Tried
both new sensors and both failed and it runs perfect on the old sensor. Took
it for a drive and it broke down again.
>
> I will call these
Scooby specialists in Sydney.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
Skot
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
plander@...
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2011 8:42 AM
> Subject: Re: Re:
[Syncro_T3_Australia] no news is good news??
>
>
>
>
> Skot,
>
> Have you tried this place in
Mortdale
>
> http://www.alldrivesubaroo.com.au/subaru_spare_parts.html
>
> They bring parts in from Japan and do mechanical repairs
>
> Phill
>
> > Mr Scott Pitcher
<spbconsulting@...> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks
Roger.
> >
> > It seems that according to the Vancafe
catalogue, the 84-85 models which
> > would have the 1.9L F/I
motor had both an ignition control unit and a
> > halls sensor
(similar to my subaru donk) but the later models - the part
> > is
not listed and hence it must have been deleted from the ignition
>
> system.
> >
> > The CAS or hall sensor is all
pre-wired on a plate so it really should
> > not require
modification.
> >
> > But if he fails to get a new one
going we may need to look at the
> > wiring. What a pain in the
.....!
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> >
Skot
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original
Message -----
> > From: Gullyraker@...
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 11:53 PM
> > Subject:
Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] no news is good news??
> >
> >
> >
> > Interesting, Skot -
> >
> >
I bought a "genuine" Bosch unit p/n 1 237 010 039 from Vancafe about
> > a year ago, and when I fitted it discovered that there was a
subtle
> > difference - from memory, I think there was an issue
with the wiring
> > that needed a minor modification to make it
work. With that, and the new
> > O2 sensor and injectors, the old
girl runs sweet as a nut.
> >
> >
> >
>
> Cheers,
> > Roger.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>