Oil Cooler

1
I have put several photos into a new folder showing how I mounted an
oil cooler and remote filter mount to my syncro.
It seems to help a lot in reducing engine temperature. Air drawn in
from the left hand snorkel after being blown through the cooler gets
very hot.
In the first instance I used blue silicone hose. It is hopless stuff.
It swells up like a balloon under pressure. If the hose clamps are
too loose the hose pops off the barb. If the clamps are too tight the
hose is cut and blows apart. This led to me leaving a trail of
expensive oil down the street.
I have since replaced it with red 'powaflex multi purpose 10mm W.P
300psi' hose.

The cooler was mounted on a piece of 6mm perspex cut to fit the space
behind the left hand tail light.

The filter was mounted beside the coil. If you can find a better
location let me know! Almost any type of filter can now be used and I
have a new one ready to go that is twice the size.

When replacing the filter, drain the oil as per usual and then pull
off a pipe underneath at the adapter to drain the filter.

All parts a easily sourced at Autopro or Repco but they will have to
be ordered. Parts are: Permacool #195 Universal Spin-on adapter.
Permacool #1701 Filtermount. Permacool #1009 Fuel Cooler Coil.
You will also need barbs to screw into the fittings to suit 10mm hose
and use double clamps. The bits cost about $300.

A more suitable cooling coil (and cheaper)can be sourced from PWR
http://www.pwr.com.au/oil_engine_plate.html
2
> It seems to help a lot in reducing engine temperature.

Peter, do you have a problem with temperature?

With the enormous syncro radiator, I didnt think anyone would have a problem?

Phill
3
Hi Phil

A few things are working against me here.
1: The ambient temperatures have been very high ie: 30-40 degrees plus.
On a recent trip up the mountain the road was littered with cars (some
very late models) with there bonnets up.
2: Some of the 4WDing we do the climbs are long and steep. The engine
is working very hard and the thermo fan struggles to keep the coolant
temp down.
3: This car has done 350,000 kms. It is often said that an old engine
runs hotter. Dont know why but many think it is the case (including me).
4: Even when my Syncro was brand new it did overheat under such extreme
conditions.
I just lost an engine from overheating. I think that the oil got so hot
that it failed to lubricate the bigend bearings sufficently. The result
was complete and total destruction.
5: Rick has recently had the problem of the oil pressure light coming
on when the car has been very hot. This may be the oil thinning out and
failing to pump around the engine.

So adding a cooler does no harm (as far as I know).
I am taking it as insurance!


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
>
> > It seems to help a lot in reducing engine temperature.
>
> Peter, do you have a problem with temperature?
>
> With the enormous syncro radiator, I didnt think anyone would have a
problem?
>
> Phill
>
4
> 2: Some of the 4WDing we do the climbs are long and steep. The engine
> is working very hard and the thermo fan struggles to keep the coolant
> temp down.

I've done some hot steep climbs and I have only had the fan go to high speed once.



> 4: Even when my Syncro was brand new it did overheat under such extreme
> conditions.

Do you run the original thermostat and fan switch?


> 5: Rick has recently had the problem of the oil pressure light coming
> on when the car has been very hot. This may be the oil thinning out and
> failing to pump around the engine.
>

Good oils really shouldn't do that.




> So adding a cooler does no harm (as far as I know).
>

Not really.

It's good if you can get a Porsche or Golf GTI Mk1 thermostat for it.
Although you probably drive longer distances every time than city people ensuring that your oil warms up.


Phill
5
Oil is designed to run at an optimum temperature, below which it is too viscous to spread over every surface that needs lubrication.  An additional oil cooler can be counter productive if it prevents the oil from reaching the correct operating temperature the bulk of the time.  I ran Type 3's for many years and they DID have a cooling problem.  I used external oil coolers but also used a thermostatically controlled valve which did not open until the crankcase oil reached operating temperature.
 
The only way to be sure of what parameters your are working to is to have accurate crankcase oil temperatures to start with.  Remember that this must go hand in hand with coolant temperatures.
 
Les
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil Cooler



> 2: Some of the 4WDing we do the climbs are long and steep. The engine
> is working very hard and the thermo fan struggles to keep the coolant
> temp down.

I've done some hot steep climbs and I have only had the fan go to high speed once.

> 4: Even when my Syncro was brand new it did overheat under such extreme
> conditions.

Do you run the original thermostat and fan switch?

> 5: Rick has recently had the problem of the oil pressure light coming
> on when the car has been very hot. This may be the oil thinning out and
> failing to pump around the engine.
>

Good oils really shouldn't do that.

> So adding a cooler does no harm (as far as I know).
>

Not really.

It's good if you can get a Porsche or Golf GTI Mk1 thermostat for it.
Although you probably drive longer distances every time than city people ensuring that your oil warms up.

Phill

6
Gday Peter,

Have you considered changing all your oils over to full synthetic?

The extreme temperatures you talk of combined with the adverse offroad
conditions you experience down there, full synthetic (FS) oils may well
be a significant aid to preventing engine/transaxle damage in such
extremes, plus FS has other useful attributes as well.

Cheers.

Ken


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <kestel.p@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Phil
>
> A few things are working against me here.
> 1: The ambient temperatures have been very high ie: 30-40 degrees
plus.
> On a recent trip up the mountain the road was littered with cars (some
> very late models) with there bonnets up.
> 2: Some of the 4WDing we do the climbs are long and steep. The engine
> is working very hard and the thermo fan struggles to keep the coolant
> temp down.
> 3: This car has done 350,000 kms. It is often said that an old engine
> runs hotter. Dont know why but many think it is the case (including
me).
> 4: Even when my Syncro was brand new it did overheat under such
extreme
> conditions.
> I just lost an engine from overheating. I think that the oil got so
hot
> that it failed to lubricate the bigend bearings sufficently. The
result
> was complete and total destruction.
> 5: Rick has recently had the problem of the oil pressure light coming
> on when the car has been very hot. This may be the oil thinning out
and
> failing to pump around the engine.
>
> So adding a cooler does no harm (as far as I know).
> I am taking it as insurance!
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@ wrote:
> >
> >
> > > It seems to help a lot in reducing engine temperature.
> >
> > Peter, do you have a problem with temperature?
> >
> > With the enormous syncro radiator, I didnt think anyone would have a
> problem?
> >
> > Phill
> >
>
7
Gday Peter,

Just a clarification about drawing in fresh air via the LH snorkel for
the oil cooler.

I thought the passenger side snorkel acted as a chimney, designed to
extract heat from the engine bay. Check by placing a hand over the top
louvre when the motor is running at operating temperature and revved up
a bit. Even more so when the van is in motion.

So if you keep the oil cooler in place, I'm thinking the fan direction
should be reversed, so pulling heat from the oil cooler up and out the
snorkel chimney. Meaning the fan would also need to pull usual engine
bay heat as well.

Cheers.

Ken


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <kestel.p@...>
wrote:
>
> I have put several photos into a new folder showing how I mounted an
> oil cooler and remote filter mount to my syncro.
> It seems to help a lot in reducing engine temperature. Air drawn in
> from the left hand snorkel after being blown through the cooler gets
> very hot.
> In the first instance I used blue silicone hose. It is hopless stuff.
> It swells up like a balloon under pressure. If the hose clamps are
> too loose the hose pops off the barb. If the clamps are too tight the
> hose is cut and blows apart. This led to me leaving a trail of
> expensive oil down the street.
> I have since replaced it with red 'powaflex multi purpose 10mm W.P
> 300psi' hose.
>
> The cooler was mounted on a piece of 6mm perspex cut to fit the space
> behind the left hand tail light.
>
> The filter was mounted beside the coil. If you can find a better
> location let me know! Almost any type of filter can now be used and I
> have a new one ready to go that is twice the size.
>
> When replacing the filter, drain the oil as per usual and then pull
> off a pipe underneath at the adapter to drain the filter.
>
> All parts a easily sourced at Autopro or Repco but they will have to
> be ordered. Parts are: Permacool #195 Universal Spin-on adapter.
> Permacool #1701 Filtermount. Permacool #1009 Fuel Cooler Coil.
> You will also need barbs to screw into the fittings to suit 10mm hose
> and use double clamps. The bits cost about $300.
>
> A more suitable cooling coil (and cheaper)can be sourced from PWR
> http://www.pwr.com.au/oil_engine_plate.html
>
8
Good point Ken. I really think that the vent is a leftover from the air cooled days although because it is foreward facing, when moving it may be an inlet.

Someone will have to do an experiment.

Phill



> Ken <unclekenz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gday Peter,
>
> Just a clarification about drawing in fresh air via the LH snorkel for
> the oil cooler.
>
> I thought the passenger side snorkel acted as a chimney, designed to
> extract heat from the engine bay. Check by placing a hand over the top
> louvre when the motor is running at operating temperature and revved up
> a bit. Even more so when the van is in motion.
>
> So if you keep the oil cooler in place, I'm thinking the fan direction
> should be reversed, so pulling heat from the oil cooler up and out the
> snorkel chimney. Meaning the fan would also need to pull usual engine
> bay heat as well.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <kestel.p@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have put several photos into a new folder showing how I mounted an
> > oil cooler and remote filter mount to my syncro.
> > It seems to help a lot in reducing engine temperature. Air drawn in
> > from the left hand snorkel after being blown through the cooler gets
> > very hot.
> > In the first instance I used blue silicone hose. It is hopless stuff.
> > It swells up like a balloon under pressure. If the hose clamps are
> > too loose the hose pops off the barb. If the clamps are too tight the
> > hose is cut and blows apart. This led to me leaving a trail of
> > expensive oil down the street.
> > I have since replaced it with red 'powaflex multi purpose 10mm W.P
> > 300psi' hose.
> >
> > The cooler was mounted on a piece of 6mm perspex cut to fit the space
> > behind the left hand tail light.
> >
> > The filter was mounted beside the coil. If you can find a better
> > location let me know! Almost any type of filter can now be used and I
> > have a new one ready to go that is twice the size.
> >
> > When replacing the filter, drain the oil as per usual and then pull
> > off a pipe underneath at the adapter to drain the filter.
> >
> > All parts a easily sourced at Autopro or Repco but they will have to
> > be ordered. Parts are: Permacool #195 Universal Spin-on adapter.
> > Permacool #1701 Filtermount. Permacool #1009 Fuel Cooler Coil.
> > You will also need barbs to screw into the fittings to suit 10mm hose
> > and use double clamps. The bits cost about $300.
> >
> > A more suitable cooling coil (and cheaper)can be sourced from PWR
> > http://www.pwr.com.au/oil_engine_plate.html
> >
9
Phill,

Unlike my T2 Bay kombi air cooled which has a fully sealed engine bay
(as long as owners properly maintained the tinplate and perimeter sponge
seal), the engine bay could stay pretty clean.

Compare that to the horrible mess our T3 engines become after offroading
in particular, sure we have little tinplate and seal protection like the
T2 has, I've always wondered though whether the real culprit that causes
the road debris to be drawn in with such aplomb and deposited ad nauseum
onto our motors ..... is the pull-through presence and
advertent/inadvertent function of the LH chimney snorkel?

Cheers.

Ken






--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
> Good point Ken. I really think that the vent is a leftover from the
air cooled days although because it is foreward facing, when moving it
may be an inlet.
>
> Someone will have to do an experiment.
>
> Phill
>
>
>
> > Ken unclekenz@... wrote:
> >
> >
> > Gday Peter,
> >
> > Just a clarification about drawing in fresh air via the LH snorkel
for
> > the oil cooler.
> >
> > I thought the passenger side snorkel acted as a chimney, designed to
> > extract heat from the engine bay. Check by placing a hand over the
top
> > louvre when the motor is running at operating temperature and revved
up
> > a bit. Even more so when the van is in motion.
> >
> > So if you keep the oil cooler in place, I'm thinking the fan
direction
> > should be reversed, so pulling heat from the oil cooler up and out
the
> > snorkel chimney. Meaning the fan would also need to pull usual
engine
> > bay heat as well.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" kestel.p@
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I have put several photos into a new folder showing how I mounted
an
> > > oil cooler and remote filter mount to my syncro.
> > > It seems to help a lot in reducing engine temperature. Air drawn
in
> > > from the left hand snorkel after being blown through the cooler
gets
> > > very hot.
> > > In the first instance I used blue silicone hose. It is hopless
stuff.
> > > It swells up like a balloon under pressure. If the hose clamps are
> > > too loose the hose pops off the barb. If the clamps are too tight
the
> > > hose is cut and blows apart. This led to me leaving a trail of
> > > expensive oil down the street.
> > > I have since replaced it with red 'powaflex multi purpose 10mm W.P
> > > 300psi' hose.
> > >
> > > The cooler was mounted on a piece of 6mm perspex cut to fit the
space
> > > behind the left hand tail light.
> > >
> > > The filter was mounted beside the coil. If you can find a better
> > > location let me know! Almost any type of filter can now be used
and I
> > > have a new one ready to go that is twice the size.
> > >
> > > When replacing the filter, drain the oil as per usual and then
pull
> > > off a pipe underneath at the adapter to drain the filter.
> > >
> > > All parts a easily sourced at Autopro or Repco but they will have
to
> > > be ordered. Parts are: Permacool #195 Universal Spin-on adapter.
> > > Permacool #1701 Filtermount. Permacool #1009 Fuel Cooler Coil.
> > > You will also need barbs to screw into the fittings to suit 10mm
hose
> > > and use double clamps. The bits cost about $300.
> > >
> > > A more suitable cooling coil (and cheaper)can be sourced from PWR
> > > http://www.pwr.com.au/oil_engine_plate.html
> > >
>
10
Here might be 2 ways to determine the direction of airflow inside the
left hand snorkel.
1: Tape a few pieces of cotton onto the outside vent and go for a
drive. If the cotton finishes inside or outside might be a clue.

2: Install a tiny DC motor with a propellor on it inside the snorkel!
The polarity will give direction and the voltage will give the rate.

Will do these checks myself...(in the next lifetime)

PK




--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, plander@... wrote:
>
> Good point Ken. I really think that the vent is a leftover from the
air cooled days although because it is foreward facing, when moving
it may be an inlet.
>
> Someone will have to do an experiment.
>
> Phill
>
>
>
> > Ken <unclekenz@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Gday Peter,
> >
> > Just a clarification about drawing in fresh air via the LH
snorkel for
> > the oil cooler.
> >
> > I thought the passenger side snorkel acted as a chimney, designed
to
> > extract heat from the engine bay. Check by placing a hand over
the top
> > louvre when the motor is running at operating temperature and
revved up
> > a bit. Even more so when the van is in motion.
> >
> > So if you keep the oil cooler in place, I'm thinking the fan
direction
> > should be reversed, so pulling heat from the oil cooler up and
out the
> > snorkel chimney. Meaning the fan would also need to pull usual
engine
> > bay heat as well.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <kestel.p@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I have put several photos into a new folder showing how I
mounted an
> > > oil cooler and remote filter mount to my syncro.
> > > It seems to help a lot in reducing engine temperature. Air
drawn in
> > > from the left hand snorkel after being blown through the cooler
gets
> > > very hot.
> > > In the first instance I used blue silicone hose. It is hopless
stuff.
> > > It swells up like a balloon under pressure. If the hose clamps
are
> > > too loose the hose pops off the barb. If the clamps are too
tight the
> > > hose is cut and blows apart. This led to me leaving a trail of
> > > expensive oil down the street.
> > > I have since replaced it with red 'powaflex multi purpose 10mm
W.P
> > > 300psi' hose.
> > >
> > > The cooler was mounted on a piece of 6mm perspex cut to fit the
space
> > > behind the left hand tail light.
> > >
> > > The filter was mounted beside the coil. If you can find a better
> > > location let me know! Almost any type of filter can now be used
and I
> > > have a new one ready to go that is twice the size.
> > >
> > > When replacing the filter, drain the oil as per usual and then
pull
> > > off a pipe underneath at the adapter to drain the filter.
> > >
> > > All parts a easily sourced at Autopro or Repco but they will
have to
> > > be ordered. Parts are: Permacool #195 Universal Spin-on adapter.
> > > Permacool #1701 Filtermount. Permacool #1009 Fuel Cooler Coil.
> > > You will also need barbs to screw into the fittings to suit
10mm hose
> > > and use double clamps. The bits cost about $300.
> > >
> > > A more suitable cooling coil (and cheaper)can be sourced from
PWR
> > > http://www.pwr.com.au/oil_engine_plate.html
> > >
>