Latest on my oil light/buzzer: local veedub garage and trusted mechanic friend agree - the high pressure sensor (mounted to rear face of engine below oil pump) is the most likely cause of failure, followed by the low pressure one on the left of the crankcase between the pushrods.
Hi Pete,
I reckon the answer to your question will be quite clearly understood when you closely eyeball that end of the lead.
Cheers.
Ken
Prognosis:Exceeded VW T3 syncro spec maximum wading depth.Did not utilise frontal wading blanket.Forgot motor is petrol, not diesel.You are not Rudi.
Did I miss anything?Cheers.Ken
Sent by blind carrier pigeon with lost sense of direction .... could be a problem!
-------- Original message --------From: "peterw1000@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]"Date:03/09/2018 8:03 AM (GMT+10:00)Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!
The origional leads have metal caps over the spark plugs that i found to be sadly lacking if crossing water ?
Why do you think they went to that medium thought it was a bit strange for such a low engined 4x4Any thoughtspete
The origional leads have metal caps over the spark plugs that i found to be sadly lacking if crossing water ?
Why do you think they went to that medium thought it was a bit strange for such a low engined 4x4Any thoughtspete
--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
Dear all,
I own a 1990 Syncro (front and rear diff locks) Camper with a Wesfalia pop top. I have owned the vehicle since 2005 and have toured southern Africa over a number of years. My kids grew up in the bus and we have many fond memories. The kids are grown and I am not using the vehicle much (perhaps 2,000 kilometers per year). The vehicle has been upgraded substantially as follows:
And so on …
Future projects:
I am not very technical but if anyone wants information on any of these mods, please let me know.
|
Regards, |
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Piet Coetsee |
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Managing Director |
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T: 021 910 2654 F: 086 20 20 204 E: piet@smartpropertyservices.co.za W: www.smartpropertyservices.co.za |
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 10 September 2018 1:38 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] New Members
A huge hello and welcome to our new members:
Piet from South Africa
and Danny from somewhere in Oz.
Please say hello back and introduce yourselves.
Cheers,
Scott
On 3/09/2018 8:03 AM, peterw1000@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
The origional leads have metal caps over the spark plugs that i found to be sadly lacking if crossing water ?
Why do you think they went to that medium thought it was a bit strange for such a low engined 4x4
Any thoughts
pete
--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
Dear all,
I own a 1990 Syncro (front and rear diff locks) Camper with a Wesfalia pop top. I have owned the vehicle since 2005 and have toured southern Africa over a number of years. My kids grew up in the bus and we have many fond memories. The kids are grown and I am not using the vehicle much (perhaps 2,000 kilometers per year). The vehicle has been upgraded substantially as follows:
- The 2.1 boxer was overhauled and enlarged to 2,3 liter. Not very successful; marginally more power but a lot heavier on juice😊
- Gearbox overhauled and a decoupler fitted. This allows me to have unevenly worn front axle to rear axle tyres. You may know that the viscous coupling is not happy with any difference in circumference. You write off one tyre and then you have to replace all 4.
- I have two 45 liter stainless steel tanks under belly; one for extra fuel and the other for fresh water.
- I have a Junkers (nowadays Bosch) gas water heater, which gives me on demand hot water and a shower at the back (see attached pic). A 12v Shurflo water pump.
- I have a retractable double bed below and off course the large bed up top. The top bed keeps me safe from lions and the like. I have a thick, comfortable mattress up top with memory foam.
- Inside I have a second battery with a switch behind the driver’s seat to disconnect the starting battery once camp is set up. I still use ordinary lead acid as opposed to deep cycle, merely because the lead acids charge quicker on the road.
- In addition I have 2 x 50watt solar panels with a 10m lead. In Africa (and I suppose in Oz as well) you don’t want to fry in the sun if solar is fixed to the roof. I park in the shade and the panel in the sun and we are both happy. I have a solar 20 Amp controller and a 1,000 watt inverter.
- I have a Smev basin with hot and cold water and a two burner gas stove. I use a 9kg LPG gas bottle. 60 liter National Luna twin fridge freezer on a slider. The old 3 way fridge was obviously removed.
- The center seat is easily removable and forms part of our camping chairs (see pic).
- I have an EazyAwn 3 x 3 meters (see pic).
- The passenger seat swivels.
- External 220 v plug for shore power and LED strip lights; various 12v plugs.
- Rims upgraded to 15 inch with a swivel bracket spare on the rear. I still have a 14 inch steel rim and full profile tyre in the original space underneath the front, but this is for emergency only (if I lose 2 tyres) and it is part of the original safety design in case of a head on collision.
- The springs have been upgraded all around; much stiffer and much less dipping in front plus extra ground clearance.
- And off course a PortaPotti 😊
And so on …
Future projects:
- Convert to 2,5 Subaru. Unfortunately the expertise in SA is not great to do this. I believe you have to use the Subaru ECU for optimal power and fuel consumption.
- To have the top bed on hydraulic gas struts. At the moment I have to fold the top bed double, once I set up camp to have comfortable standing room.
- Perhaps a permanent satellite installation with WiFi modem.
I am not very technical but if anyone wants information on any of these mods, please let me know.
Regards,
Piet Coetsee
Managing Director
T: 021 910 2654
F: 086 20 20 204
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, 10 September 2018 1:38 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] New Members
A huge hello and welcome to our new members:
Piet from South Africa
and Danny from somewhere in Oz.
Please say hello back and introduce yourselves.
Cheers,
ScottOn 3/09/2018 8:03 AM, peterw1000@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
The origional leads have metal caps over the spark plugs that i found to be sadly lacking if crossing water ?
Why do you think they went to that medium thought it was a bit strange for such a low engined 4x4
Any thoughts
pete
--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
So to return to topic..
After careful inspection I found a very loose connector on the high pressure oil switch located just under the water pump. Removed, cleaned, tightened the jaws of the crimp connector, lubricated with dielectric grease and reconnected securely - a few days driving both in town and at highway speeds and no more freak oil light/buzzer alarms.
Looks like that may have been it!
--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
On 13 Sep 2018, at 12:05 PM, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Excellent result
Hears to lots of happy motoring.After careful inspection I found a very loose connector on the high pressure oil switch located just under the water pump. Removed, cleaned, tightened the jaws of the crimp connector, lubricated with dielectric grease and reconnected securely - a few days driving both in town and at highway speeds and no more freak oil light/buzzer alarms.Looks like that may have been it!--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
Hi Gaeten,
You've inspired me to R&R and do the same to my LOPS! It needed similar TLC.
Wish I could do the same to the upper UOPS too, but alas, way too hard!
Cheers.
Ken
So to return to topic..
Hi Gaeten,
You've inspired me to R&R and do the same to my LOPS! It needed similar TLC.
Wish I could do the same to the upper UOPS too, but alas, way too hard!
Cheers.
Ken
So to return to topic..
On 14 Sep 2018, at 19:39, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Gaeten,
You've inspired me to R&R and do the same to my LOPS! It needed similar TLC.
Wish I could do the same to the upper UOPS too, but alas, way too hard!
Cheers.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 11 September 2018 2:57 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!So to return to topic..
After careful inspection I found a very loose connector on the high pressure oil switch located just under the water pump. Removed, cleaned, tightened the jaws of the crimp connector, lubricated with dielectric grease and reconnected securely - a few days driving both in town and at highway speeds and no more freak oil light/buzzer alarms.
Looks like that may have been it!
Way to go! It’s not as hard as it looks though, you just need to loosen the three belts so you can pull them aside, then you can just reach the connector. To service it I pulled it through the space just above by its own wire, then the hardest part was to
carefully feed it back through and reconnect. T’was really satisfying when it popped back on securely! :-)
On 14 Sep 2018, at 19:39, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Gaeten,
You've inspired me to R&R and do the same to my LOPS! It needed similar TLC.
Wish I could do the same to the upper UOPS too, but alas, way too hard!
Cheers.
Ken
From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 11 September 2018 2:57 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!So to return to topic..
After careful inspection I found a very loose connector on the high pressure oil switch located just under the water pump. Removed, cleaned, tightened the jaws of the crimp connector, lubricated with dielectric grease and reconnected securely - a few days driving both in town and at highway speeds and no more freak oil light/buzzer alarms.
Looks like that may have been it!
