Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!

1
Hi ALL,
If anyone has any suggestions/thoughts on the following, would be much appreciated asap.

Well it's finally happened!
After a dream run for past 11 years, the warning dash LED started blinking today out of the blue. I'm camped now about 600klms from home. Checked for anything untoward and can find nothing wrong. I don't have an oil pressure gauge.
Engine oil level is fine, no abnormal leaks anywhere, bottom oil pressure switch & cabling seems ok (I've previously replaced these), unable to see top OP switch & cable to check, engine still sounds as normal.
Balance of opinions so far suggests an OP electrical connection or wire issue causing a false triggering, so I'm presently thinking that on balance the van is likely still driveable?
Any other "practical" ideas/suggestions I need to consider before I commence driving it tomorrow? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken




Sent from my Samsung GALAXY.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Jon Bartlett mail@jaybe.net [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/12/2015 4:25 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 

Hi All,

Just phoned (Behr) Hella in Melbourne and they have 15 radiators coming in early January which would have to be supplied through one of their dealers (no price). I had to quote the part number from Ken’s PDF: 8MK 376 713-631. Confirmed that they are made in South Africa.

Graham, did you find out who makes the radiators made in Japan? 

-- 
Jon Bartlett
Sent with Airmail

On 30 November 2015 at 5:14:55 pm, 'Graham Adams' g.adams2@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] (syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com) wrote:

 
Ken and all
 
As Ken mentioned, Scott and I bought the thicker 45mm Behr Syncro radiators from Wyong Radiator Repairs in 2012.
I have had no problem with mine with temp needle sitting about 2 mm to left of the red light.
 
I have just rung their workshop,they are able to supply 6 of o/n  068 121  253 E which is what Ken has quoted from my order back in 2012. Can't find my original invoice.
Their supplier, Newcastle, had 12 of which there are 6 left, can get more to order.
 
The owner is a hands on mechanic who is prepared to have a look at my Syncro radiator in situ tomorrow and subject to thread  make up some sort of hose connection,push on or otherwise.
 
List price is $420 each,down to $400 each for 2 or more.I think that there is more room to move there with a bigger order.
 
They are Japanese made and have a slightly different cooling fin arrangement than ours. I remember this 45mm radiator being very much heavier than Just Campers 30mm unit.
 
Food for thought and a viable option.
 
Cheers  Graham Adams
 
 
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 10:38 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 



Hi Rowan,
Could you please check all the following, return the list with any differences you find.
Model number I think is stamped on the bottom. Syncro radiator should read "068 121 253 E"
Core thickness around 45-50mm.
Overall width (outside to outside) of plastic tanks around 648mm.
Overall height around 455mm.
Centre to centre of bottom support lugs around 642mm.
Top left is the bleeder location.
Towards bottom right (frontside) is the thermo/fan switch position
Please report back your findings or queries.
Thank you. Cheers.
Ken

-------- Original message --------
From: "Rowan Hardinge rowan.hardinge@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 29/11/2015 12:17 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest


 
I have a spare radiator in the shed Im just not sure if it is a syncro one or not. If it is it can be used for prototyping..  How can I tell? 



 
Thanks Ken,
You've done a great job of clarifying the subject.
The photos were particularly helpful.
Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2015 16:29:11 +1100






Hi Roger,
One thing I have learnt about accidentally expelling G12+ coolant is that it is a very effective albeit expensive lawn killer!


I've always lusted after a refill/air-bleed procedure that can readily be CONTROLLED by a SOLE operator ideally in a relaxed state of mind, with the convenience to be stationed only at the expansion tank from the moment after I've opened the radiator bleeder until I'm finished filling bleeding and ready to shut the motor down. By comparison, in my opinion the Bentley coolant change/bleed procedure is a disaster for a SOLE operator and never fails to fill me with terror!


RE your suggestion: "I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess."
So Roger, to perhaps extend your dream idea further ... I've often wondered how to attach (seal) and run a small flexible hose from the radiator bleeder back to the expansion bottle, so creating a complete coolant loop for the fill/bleed procedure. This would enable complete control of coolant being fed into the system and at the same time, monitor for the cessation of bled air from the loop return hose. So maybe utilising your bleed-valve idea would do it. And to make the SOLE operator job even easier, I now fit a home made attachment to the expansion tank that elevates the fill position to a convenient height that is at least above the radiator bleeder level, dependent upon jacking height of the front of the van or not. So when satisfied with filling bleeding, I can cut the 2000 rpm of the motor and not be concerned with coolant back-flushing out of the expansion tank, as it otherwise tries to do. Works for me even without the coolant loop hose, but I reckon even better setup with it. See the pics of the home made attachment.


The only issue for me perhaps against modifying the present radiator bleeder arrangement would be if modifying to a bleed/valve design, whether that would then prevent being able to manually bleed air trapped in the radiator by simply squirting coolant into the bleed hole till it's full. I find this method of occasional air-bleeding the radiator pretty handy.


Grist for the mill? Any other ideas/comments, please feel free to add to the discussion.


On another issue to do with G11 verses G12+ coolant for our vans.
Note: I have no opinion myself on this, just passing along for others to be aware of and/or comment.


I was told recently by my local mechanic that the semi-retired VW mechanic we both know told him that before the days of G12+, VW service personnel had a device or a sort of litmus test that could reveal the condition of G11 coolant in the system, the result would determine whether or not the coolant was due for replacement or not. Whereas this test was lost with introduction of G12+ formula. There may have been some other particular benefit as well, perhaps to do with original head studs V stainless steel alternatives, but I've since forgotten. In any event, it was the opinion of the semi-retired VW mechanic that we all should still be using G11 and not G12+ in our MV 2.1 water-cooled motors. In particular that G12+ was principally designed for later technology VW motors. I could perhaps seek greater clarity on this and any other matter if it was beneficial.


Cheers Roger. So far the count is seven members interested in the radiator. Lets keep it going ppl, the more the merrier!
Ken



-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 27/11/2015 10:51 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Radiator replacement



Good idea Ken. I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess.

Perhaps an all-aluminium radiator would be the go, to dispense with the troublesome plastic tanks and O ring seals.


Can we start a new thread to gauge the interest out there. I'm thinking that the more that we order, the cheaper they will be.


Roger B.





















2
Is it just at idle and with no buzzer of doom above 2000rpm?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 9:42 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi ALL,
If anyone has any suggestions/thoughts on the following, would be much appreciated asap.

Well it's finally happened!
After a dream run for past 11 years, the warning dash LED started blinking today out of the blue. I'm camped now about 600klms from home. Checked for anything untoward and can find nothing wrong. I don't have an oil pressure gauge.
Engine oil level is fine, no abnormal leaks anywhere, bottom oil pressure switch & cabling seems ok (I've previously replaced these), unable to see top OP switch & cable to check, engine still sounds as normal.
Balance of opinions so far suggests an OP electrical connection or wire issue causing a false triggering, so I'm presently thinking that on balance the van is likely still driveable?
Any other "practical" ideas/suggestions I need to consider before I commence driving it tomorrow? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken




Sent from my Samsung GALAXY.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Jon Bartlett mail@jaybe.net [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/12/2015 4:25 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 

Hi All,

Just phoned (Behr) Hella in Melbourne and they have 15 radiators coming in early January which would have to be supplied through one of their dealers (no price). I had to quote the part number from Ken’s PDF: 8MK 376 713-631. Confirmed that they are made in South Africa.

Graham, did you find out who makes the radiators made in Japan? 

-- 
Jon Bartlett
Sent with Airmail

On 30 November 2015 at 5:14:55 pm, 'Graham Adams' g.adams2@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] (syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com) wrote:

 
Ken and all
 
As Ken mentioned, Scott and I bought the thicker 45mm Behr Syncro radiators from Wyong Radiator Repairs in 2012.
I have had no problem with mine with temp needle sitting about 2 mm to left of the red light.
 
I have just rung their workshop,they are able to supply 6 of o/n  068 121  253 E which is what Ken has quoted from my order back in 2012. Can't find my original invoice.
Their supplier, Newcastle, had 12 of which there are 6 left, can get more to order.
 
The owner is a hands on mechanic who is prepared to have a look at my Syncro radiator in situ tomorrow and subject to thread  make up some sort of hose connection,push on or otherwise.
 
List price is $420 each,down to $400 each for 2 or more.I think that there is more room to move there with a bigger order.
 
They are Japanese made and have a slightly different cooling fin arrangement than ours. I remember this 45mm radiator being very much heavier than Just Campers 30mm unit.
 
Food for thought and a viable option.
 
Cheers  Graham Adams
 
 
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 10:38 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 



Hi Rowan,
Could you please check all the following, return the list with any differences you find.
Model number I think is stamped on the bottom. Syncro radiator should read "068 121 253 E"
Core thickness around 45-50mm.
Overall width (outside to outside) of plastic tanks around 648mm.
Overall height around 455mm.
Centre to centre of bottom support lugs around 642mm.
Top left is the bleeder location.
Towards bottom right (frontside) is the thermo/fan switch position
Please report back your findings or queries.
Thank you. Cheers.
Ken

-------- Original message --------
From: "Rowan Hardinge rowan.hardinge@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 29/11/2015 12:17 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest


 
I have a spare radiator in the shed Im just not sure if it is a syncro one or not. If it is it can be used for prototyping..  How can I tell? 



 
Thanks Ken,
You've done a great job of clarifying the subject.
The photos were particularly helpful.
Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2015 16:29:11 +1100






Hi Roger,
One thing I have learnt about accidentally expelling G12+ coolant is that it is a very effective albeit expensive lawn killer!


I've always lusted after a refill/air-bleed procedure that can readily be CONTROLLED by a SOLE operator ideally in a relaxed state of mind, with the convenience to be stationed only at the expansion tank from the moment after I've opened the radiator bleeder until I'm finished filling bleeding and ready to shut the motor down. By comparison, in my opinion the Bentley coolant change/bleed procedure is a disaster for a SOLE operator and never fails to fill me with terror!


RE your suggestion: "I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess."
So Roger, to perhaps extend your dream idea further ... I've often wondered how to attach (seal) and run a small flexible hose from the radiator bleeder back to the expansion bottle, so creating a complete coolant loop for the fill/bleed procedure. This would enable complete control of coolant being fed into the system and at the same time, monitor for the cessation of bled air from the loop return hose. So maybe utilising your bleed-valve idea would do it. And to make the SOLE operator job even easier, I now fit a home made attachment to the expansion tank that elevates the fill position to a convenient height that is at least above the radiator bleeder level, dependent upon jacking height of the front of the van or not. So when satisfied with filling bleeding, I can cut the 2000 rpm of the motor and not be concerned with coolant back-flushing out of the expansion tank, as it otherwise tries to do. Works for me even without the coolant loop hose, but I reckon even better setup with it. See the pics of the home made attachment.


The only issue for me perhaps against modifying the present radiator bleeder arrangement would be if modifying to a bleed/valve design, whether that would then prevent being able to manually bleed air trapped in the radiator by simply squirting coolant into the bleed hole till it's full. I find this method of occasional air-bleeding the radiator pretty handy.


Grist for the mill? Any other ideas/comments, please feel free to add to the discussion.


On another issue to do with G11 verses G12+ coolant for our vans.
Note: I have no opinion myself on this, just passing along for others to be aware of and/or comment.


I was told recently by my local mechanic that the semi-retired VW mechanic we both know told him that before the days of G12+, VW service personnel had a device or a sort of litmus test that could reveal the condition of G11 coolant in the system, the result would determine whether or not the coolant was due for replacement or not. Whereas this test was lost with introduction of G12+ formula. There may have been some other particular benefit as well, perhaps to do with original head studs V stainless steel alternatives, but I've since forgotten. In any event, it was the opinion of the semi-retired VW mechanic that we all should still be using G11 and not G12+ in our MV 2.1 water-cooled motors. In particular that G12+ was principally designed for later technology VW motors. I could perhaps seek greater clarity on this and any other matter if it was beneficial.


Cheers Roger. So far the count is seven members interested in the radiator. Lets keep it going ppl, the more the merrier!
Ken



-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 27/11/2015 10:51 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Radiator replacement



Good idea Ken. I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess.

Perhaps an all-aluminium radiator would be the go, to dispense with the troublesome plastic tanks and O ring seals.


Can we start a new thread to gauge the interest out there. I'm thinking that the more that we order, the cheaper they will be.


Roger B.





















3
If your in the nrma might be worth seeing if the tow home racq do that free not sure for 600 klm
good luck ken
pete

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 10:12 PM, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi ALL,
If anyone has any suggestions/thoughts on the following, would be much appreciated asap.

Well it's finally happened!
After a dream run for past 11 years, the warning dash LED started blinking today out of the blue. I'm camped now about 600klms from home. Checked for anything untoward and can find nothing wrong. I don't have an oil pressure gauge.
Engine oil level is fine, no abnormal leaks anywhere, bottom oil pressure switch & cabling seems ok (I've previously replaced these), unable to see top OP switch & cable to check, engine still sounds as normal.
Balance of opinions so far suggests an OP electrical connection or wire issue causing a false triggering, so I'm presently thinking that on balance the van is likely still driveable?
Any other "practical" ideas/suggestions I need to consider before I commence driving it tomorrow? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken




Sent from my Samsung GALAXY.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Jon Bartlett mail@jaybe.net [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/12/2015 4:25 PM (GMT+10:00)
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

Hi All,

Just phoned (Behr) Hella in Melbourne and they have 15 radiators coming in early January which would have to be supplied through one of their dealers (no price). I had to quote the part number from Ken’s PDF: 8MK 376 713-631. Confirmed that they are made in South Africa.

Graham, did you find out who makes the radiators made in Japan?

--
Jon Bartlett
Sent with Airmail

On 30 November 2015 at 5:14:55 pm, 'Graham Adams' g.adams2@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] (syncro_t3_australia@ yahoogroups.com) wrote:

Ken and all
As Ken mentioned, Scott and I bought the thicker 45mm Behr Syncro radiators from Wyong Radiator Repairs in 2012.
I have had no problem with mine with temp needle sitting about 2 mm to left of the red light.
I have just rung their workshop,they are able to supply 6 of o/n 068 121 253 E which is what Ken has quoted from my order back in 2012. Can't find my original invoice.
Their supplier, Newcastle, had 12 of which there are 6 left, can get more to order.
The owner is a hands on mechanic who is prepared to have a look at my Syncro radiator in situ tomorrow and subject to thread make up some sort of hose connection,push on or otherwise.
List price is $420 each,down to $400 each for 2 or more.I think that there is more room to move there with a bigger order.
They are Japanese made and have a slightly different cooling fin arrangement than ours. I remember this 45mm radiator being very much heavier than Just Campers 30mm unit.
Food for thought and a viable option.
Cheers Graham Adams
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 10:38 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest




Hi Rowan,
Could you please check all the following, return the list with any differences you find.
Model number I think is stamped on the bottom. Syncro radiator should read "068 121 253 E"
Core thickness around 45-50mm.
Overall width (outside to outside) of plastic tanks around 648mm.
Overall height around 455mm.
Centre to centre of bottom support lugs around 642mm.
Top left is the bleeder location.
Towards bottom right (frontside) is the thermo/fan switch position
Please report back your findings or queries.
Thank you. Cheers.
Ken

-------- Original message --------
From: "Rowan Hardinge rowan.hardinge@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com>
Date: 29/11/2015 12:17 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com,Syncro_T3_ Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest


I have a spare radiator in the shed Im just not sure if it is a syncro one or not. If it is it can be used for prototyping.. How can I tell?



Thanks Ken,
You've done a great job of clarifying the subject.
The photos were particularly helpful.
Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2015 16:29:11 +1100






Hi Roger,
One thing I have learnt about accidentally expelling G12+ coolant is that it is a very effective albeit expensive lawn killer!


I've always lusted after a refill/air-bleed procedure that can readily be CONTROLLED by a SOLE operator ideally in a relaxed state of mind, with the convenience to be stationed only at the expansion tank from the moment after I've opened the radiator bleeder until I'm finished filling bleeding and ready to shut the motor down. By comparison, in my opinion the Bentley coolant change/bleed procedure is a disaster for a SOLE operator and never fails to fill me with terror!


RE your suggestion: "I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess."
So Roger, to perhaps extend your dream idea further ... I've often wondered how to attach (seal) and run a small flexible hose from the radiator bleeder back to the expansion bottle, so creating a complete coolant loop for the fill/bleed procedure. This would enable complete control of coolant being fed into the system and at the same time, monitor for the cessation of bled air from the loop return hose. So maybe utilising your bleed-valve idea would do it. And to make the SOLE operator job even easier, I now fit a home made attachment to the expansion tank that elevates the fill position to a convenient height that is at least above the radiator bleeder level, dependent upon jacking height of the front of the van or not. So when satisfied with filling bleeding, I can cut the 2000 rpm of the motor and not be concerned with coolant back-flushing out of the expansion tank, as it otherwise tries to do. Works for me even without the coolant loop hose, but I reckon even better setup with it. See the pics of the home made attachment.


The only issue for me perhaps against modifying the present radiator bleeder arrangement would be if modifying to a bleed/valve design, whether that would then prevent being able to manually bleed air trapped in the radiator by simply squirting coolant into the bleed hole till it's full. I find this method of occasional air-bleeding the radiator pretty handy.


Grist for the mill? Any other ideas/comments, please feel free to add to the discussion.


On another issue to do with G11 verses G12+ coolant for our vans.
Note: I have no opinion myself on this, just passing along for others to be aware of and/or comment.


I was told recently by my local mechanic that the semi-retired VW mechanic we both know told him that before the days of G12+, VW service personnel had a device or a sort of litmus test that could reveal the condition of G11 coolant in the system, the result would determine whether or not the coolant was due for replacement or not. Whereas this test was lost with introduction of G12+ formula. There may have been some other particular benefit as well, perhaps to do with original head studs V stainless steel alternatives, but I've since forgotten. In any event, it was the opinion of the semi-retired VW mechanic that we all should still be using G11 and not G12+ in our MV 2.1 water-cooled motors. In particular that G12+ was principally designed for later technology VW motors. I could perhaps seek greater clarity on this and any other matter if it was beneficial.


Cheers Roger. So far the count is seven members interested in the radiator. Lets keep it going ppl, the more the merrier!
Ken



-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com>
Date: 27/11/2015 10:51 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@ yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Radiator replacement



Good idea Ken. I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess.

Perhaps an all-aluminium radiator would be the go, to dispense with the troublesome plastic tanks and O ring seals.


Can we start a new thread to gauge the interest out there. I'm thinking that the more that we order, the cheaper they will be.


Roger B.






















4
Hi Aaron,
Thanks for your reply.
Not heard the buzzer yet, just the blinking light while driving. Any other thoughts?
Cheers.
Ken


Sent by blind carrier pigeon with lost sense of direction .... could be a problem!


-------- Original message --------
From: "Aaron Lewis aaronjlewis71@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:07/08/2018 10:54 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!

 

Is it just at idle and with no buzzer of doom above 2000rpm?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 9:42 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi ALL,
If anyone has any suggestions/thoughts on the following, would be much appreciated asap.

Well it's finally happened!
After a dream run for past 11 years, the warning dash LED started blinking today out of the blue. I'm camped now about 600klms from home. Checked for anything untoward and can find nothing wrong. I don't have an oil pressure gauge.
Engine oil level is fine, no abnormal leaks anywhere, bottom oil pressure switch & cabling seems ok (I've previously replaced these), unable to see top OP switch & cable to check, engine still sounds as normal.
Balance of opinions so far suggests an OP electrical connection or wire issue causing a false triggering, so I'm presently thinking that on balance the van is likely still driveable?
Any other "practical" ideas/suggestions I need to consider before I commence driving it tomorrow? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken




Sent from my Samsung GALAXY.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Jon Bartlett mail@jaybe.net [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/12/2015 4:25 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 

Hi All,

Just phoned (Behr) Hella in Melbourne and they have 15 radiators coming in early January which would have to be supplied through one of their dealers (no price). I had to quote the part number from Ken’s PDF: 8MK 376 713-631. Confirmed that they are made in South Africa.

Graham, did you find out who makes the radiators made in Japan? 

-- 
Jon Bartlett
Sent with Airmail

On 30 November 2015 at 5:14:55 pm, 'Graham Adams' g.adams2@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] (syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com) wrote:

 
Ken and all
 
As Ken mentioned, Scott and I bought the thicker 45mm Behr Syncro radiators from Wyong Radiator Repairs in 2012.
I have had no problem with mine with temp needle sitting about 2 mm to left of the red light.
 
I have just rung their workshop,they are able to supply 6 of o/n  068 121  253 E which is what Ken has quoted from my order back in 2012. Can't find my original invoice.
Their supplier, Newcastle, had 12 of which there are 6 left, can get more to order.
 
The owner is a hands on mechanic who is prepared to have a look at my Syncro radiator in situ tomorrow and subject to thread  make up some sort of hose connection,push on or otherwise.
 
List price is $420 each,down to $400 each for 2 or more.I think that there is more room to move there with a bigger order.
 
They are Japanese made and have a slightly different cooling fin arrangement than ours. I remember this 45mm radiator being very much heavier than Just Campers 30mm unit.
 
Food for thought and a viable option.
 
Cheers  Graham Adams
 
 
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 10:38 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 



Hi Rowan,
Could you please check all the following, return the list with any differences you find.
Model number I think is stamped on the bottom. Syncro radiator should read "068 121 253 E"
Core thickness around 45-50mm.
Overall width (outside to outside) of plastic tanks around 648mm.
Overall height around 455mm.
Centre to centre of bottom support lugs around 642mm.
Top left is the bleeder location.
Towards bottom right (frontside) is the thermo/fan switch position
Please report back your findings or queries.
Thank you. Cheers.
Ken

-------- Original message --------
From: "Rowan Hardinge rowan.hardinge@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 29/11/2015 12:17 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest


 
I have a spare radiator in the shed Im just not sure if it is a syncro one or not. If it is it can be used for prototyping..  How can I tell? 



 
Thanks Ken,
You've done a great job of clarifying the subject.
The photos were particularly helpful.
Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2015 16:29:11 +1100






Hi Roger,
One thing I have learnt about accidentally expelling G12+ coolant is that it is a very effective albeit expensive lawn killer!


I've always lusted after a refill/air-bleed procedure that can readily be CONTROLLED by a SOLE operator ideally in a relaxed state of mind, with the convenience to be stationed only at the expansion tank from the moment after I've opened the radiator bleeder until I'm finished filling bleeding and ready to shut the motor down. By comparison, in my opinion the Bentley coolant change/bleed procedure is a disaster for a SOLE operator and never fails to fill me with terror!


RE your suggestion: "I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess."
So Roger, to perhaps extend your dream idea further ... I've often wondered how to attach (seal) and run a small flexible hose from the radiator bleeder back to the expansion bottle, so creating a complete coolant loop for the fill/bleed procedure. This would enable complete control of coolant being fed into the system and at the same time, monitor for the cessation of bled air from the loop return hose. So maybe utilising your bleed-valve idea would do it. And to make the SOLE operator job even easier, I now fit a home made attachment to the expansion tank that elevates the fill position to a convenient height that is at least above the radiator bleeder level, dependent upon jacking height of the front of the van or not. So when satisfied with filling bleeding, I can cut the 2000 rpm of the motor and not be concerned with coolant back-flushing out of the expansion tank, as it otherwise tries to do. Works for me even without the coolant loop hose, but I reckon even better setup with it. See the pics of the home made attachment.


The only issue for me perhaps against modifying the present radiator bleeder arrangement would be if modifying to a bleed/valve design, whether that would then prevent being able to manually bleed air trapped in the radiator by simply squirting coolant into the bleed hole till it's full. I find this method of occasional air-bleeding the radiator pretty handy.


Grist for the mill? Any other ideas/comments, please feel free to add to the discussion.


On another issue to do with G11 verses G12+ coolant for our vans.
Note: I have no opinion myself on this, just passing along for others to be aware of and/or comment.


I was told recently by my local mechanic that the semi-retired VW mechanic we both know told him that before the days of G12+, VW service personnel had a device or a sort of litmus test that could reveal the condition of G11 coolant in the system, the result would determine whether or not the coolant was due for replacement or not. Whereas this test was lost with introduction of G12+ formula. There may have been some other particular benefit as well, perhaps to do with original head studs V stainless steel alternatives, but I've since forgotten. In any event, it was the opinion of the semi-retired VW mechanic that we all should still be using G11 and not G12+ in our MV 2.1 water-cooled motors. In particular that G12+ was principally designed for later technology VW motors. I could perhaps seek greater clarity on this and any other matter if it was beneficial.


Cheers Roger. So far the count is seven members interested in the radiator. Lets keep it going ppl, the more the merrier!
Ken



-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 27/11/2015 10:51 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Radiator replacement



Good idea Ken. I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess.

Perhaps an all-aluminium radiator would be the go, to dispense with the troublesome plastic tanks and O ring seals.


Can we start a new thread to gauge the interest out there. I'm thinking that the more that we order, the cheaper they will be.


Roger B.





















5
Hey Ken,

Many moons ago my oil light would start flashing very occasionally when at idle after a good drive.  I would freak out, stop van, check oil levels etc, had to keep driving when started up again flashing gone.  This problem disappeared once sensor(s) were replaced.

Also, with nrma, don't think they will tow you 600kms, think its 100km in remote areas and only to the nearest mechanic.

Good luck, Sam
6

Hi Ken,

Sorry to hear your having issues. The buzzer of doom comes on at high rev's as Aaron said and indicates a more serious issue. This is the PS near the water pump. The low pressure PS is more likely to indicate at low revs, this one is near the left hand push rods.


For the low pressure switch, simple check is ground the wire to confirm the cables etc. If this removes the warning light then either the PS is faulty or there is indeed a problem.

The high pressure PS is normally closed, so when off you can check it with an ohm meter (between the PS terminal and the case). To confirm the cable, if it is disconnected it should work the same as the swich opening at pressure.


The low pressure PS indicating can also come on if the oil is over heating (lower oil viscosity and less pressure in the system). If this is the case, a higher weight oil may help get you home.


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <unclekenz@...> wrote :

Hi Aaron,
Thanks for your reply.
Not heard the buzzer yet, just the blinking light while driving. Any other thoughts?
Cheers.
Ken


Sent by blind carrier pigeon with lost sense of direction .... could be a problem!


-------- Original message --------
From: "Aaron Lewis aaronjlewis71@... [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:07/08/2018 10:54 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!

 

Is it just at idle and with no buzzer of doom above 2000rpm?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 9:42 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi ALL,
If anyone has any suggestions/thoughts on the following, would be much appreciated asap.

Well it's finally happened!
After a dream run for past 11 years, the warning dash LED started blinking today out of the blue. I'm camped now about 600klms from home. Checked for anything untoward and can find nothing wrong. I don't have an oil pressure gauge.
Engine oil level is fine, no abnormal leaks anywhere, bottom oil pressure switch & cabling seems ok (I've previously replaced these), unable to see top OP switch & cable to check, engine still sounds as normal.
Balance of opinions so far suggests an OP electrical connection or wire issue causing a false triggering, so I'm presently thinking that on balance the van is likely still driveable?
Any other "practical" ideas/suggestions I need to consider before I commence driving it tomorrow? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken




Sent from my Samsung GALAXY.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Jon Bartlett mail@... [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/12/2015 4:25 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 

Hi All,

Just phoned (Behr) Hella in Melbourne and they have 15 radiators coming in early January which would have to be supplied through one of their dealers (no price). I had to quote the part number from Ken’s PDF: 8MK 376 713-631. Confirmed that they are made in South Africa.

Graham, did you find out who makes the radiators made in Japan? 

-- 
Jon Bartlett
Sent with Airmail

On 30 November 2015 at 5:14:55 pm, 'Graham Adams' g.adams2@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] (syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com) wrote:

 
Ken and all
 
As Ken mentioned, Scott and I bought the thicker 45mm Behr Syncro radiators from Wyong Radiator Repairs in 2012.
I have had no problem with mine with temp needle sitting about 2 mm to left of the red light.
 
I have just rung their workshop,they are able to supply 6 of o/n  068 121  253 E which is what Ken has quoted from my order back in 2012. Can't find my original invoice.
Their supplier, Newcastle, had 12 of which there are 6 left, can get more to order.
 
The owner is a hands on mechanic who is prepared to have a look at my Syncro radiator in situ tomorrow and subject to thread  make up some sort of hose connection,push on or otherwise.
 
List price is $420 each,down to $400 each for 2 or more.I think that there is more room to move there with a bigger order.
 
They are Japanese made and have a slightly different cooling fin arrangement than ours. I remember this 45mm radiator being very much heavier than Just Campers 30mm unit.
 
Food for thought and a viable option.
 
Cheers  Graham Adams
 
 
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 10:38 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 



Hi Rowan,
Could you please check all the following, return the list with any differences you find.
Model number I think is stamped on the bottom. Syncro radiator should read "068 121 253 E"
Core thickness around 45-50mm.
Overall width (outside to outside) of plastic tanks around 648mm.
Overall height around 455mm.
Centre to centre of bottom support lugs around 642mm.
Top left is the bleeder location.
Towards bottom right (frontside) is the thermo/fan switch position
Please report back your findings or queries.
Thank you. Cheers.
Ken

-------- Original message --------
From: "Rowan Hardinge rowan.hardinge@... [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 29/11/2015 12:17 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest


 
I have a spare radiator in the shed Im just not sure if it is a syncro one or not. If it is it can be used for prototyping..  How can I tell? 



 
Thanks Ken,
You've done a great job of clarifying the subject.
The photos were particularly helpful.
Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Ken Garratt unclekenz@... [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2015 16:29:11 +1100






Hi Roger,
One thing I have learnt about accidentally expelling G12+ coolant is that it is a very effective albeit expensive lawn killer!


I've always lusted after a refill/air-bleed procedure that can readily be CONTROLLED by a SOLE operator ideally in a relaxed state of mind, with the convenience to be stationed only at the expansion tank from the moment after I've opened the radiator bleeder until I'm finished filling bleeding and ready to shut the motor down. By comparison, in my opinion the Bentley coolant change/bleed procedure is a disaster for a SOLE operator and never fails to fill me with terror!


RE your suggestion: "I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess."
So Roger, to perhaps extend your dream idea further ... I've often wondered how to attach (seal) and run a small flexible hose from the radiator bleeder back to the expansion bottle, so creating a complete coolant loop for the fill/bleed procedure. This would enable complete control of coolant being fed into the system and at the same time, monitor for the cessation of bled air from the loop return hose. So maybe utilising your bleed-valve idea would do it. And to make the SOLE operator job even easier, I now fit a home made attachment to the expansion tank that elevates the fill position to a convenient height that is at least above the radiator bleeder level, dependent upon jacking height of the front of the van or not. So when satisfied with filling bleeding, I can cut the 2000 rpm of the motor and not be concerned with coolant back-flushing out of the expansion tank, as it otherwise tries to do. Works for me even without the coolant loop hose, but I reckon even better setup with it. See the pics of the home made attachment.


The only issue for me perhaps against modifying the present radiator bleeder arrangement would be if modifying to a bleed/valve design, whether that would then prevent being able to manually bleed air trapped in the radiator by simply squirting coolant into the bleed hole till it's full. I find this method of occasional air-bleeding the radiator pretty handy.


Grist for the mill? Any other ideas/comments, please feel free to add to the discussion.


On another issue to do with G11 verses G12+ coolant for our vans.
Note: I have no opinion myself on this, just passing along for others to be aware of and/or comment.


I was told recently by my local mechanic that the semi-retired VW mechanic we both know told him that before the days of G12+, VW service personnel had a device or a sort of litmus test that could reveal the condition of G11 coolant in the system, the result would determine whether or not the coolant was due for replacement or not. Whereas this test was lost with introduction of G12+ formula. There may have been some other particular benefit as well, perhaps to do with original head studs V stainless steel alternatives, but I've since forgotten. In any event, it was the opinion of the semi-retired VW mechanic that we all should still be using G11 and not G12+ in our MV 2.1 water-cooled motors. In particular that G12+ was principally designed for later technology VW motors. I could perhaps seek greater clarity on this and any other matter if it was beneficial.


Cheers Roger. So far the count is seven members interested in the radiator. Lets keep it going ppl, the more the merrier!
Ken



-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@... [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 27/11/2015 10:51 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Radiator replacement



Good idea Ken. I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess.

Perhaps an all-aluminium radiator would be the go, to dispense with the troublesome plastic tanks and O ring seals.


Can we start a new thread to gauge the interest out there. I'm thinking that the more that we order, the cheaper they will be.


Roger B.





















7
It sounds like your fault may be your 0.3bar switch or  it circuit, it is the switch under the motor by the push rod tubes LH side normal closed and open when the oil pressure comes up above 0.3bar, probably due for a new switch. You can try pulling the wire off it and tape it up so it can’t ground it self to any thing should stop the blinking to prove the circuit is ok if it is still blinking I would be looking for a rubbed/cut insulation on that wire. 
Should be ok to drive if no buzzer of doom, but a pressure gauge is nice.


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Wednesday, August 8, 2018, 8:11 am, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi Aaron,
Thanks for your reply.
Not heard the buzzer yet, just the blinking light while driving. Any other thoughts?
Cheers.
Ken


Sent by blind carrier pigeon with lost sense of direction .... could be a problem!


-------- Original message --------
From: "Aaron Lewis aaronjlewis71@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:07/08/2018 10:54 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!

 

Is it just at idle and with no buzzer of doom above 2000rpm?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 9:42 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi ALL,
If anyone has any suggestions/thoughts on the following, would be much appreciated asap.

Well it's finally happened!
After a dream run for past 11 years, the warning dash LED started blinking today out of the blue. I'm camped now about 600klms from home. Checked for anything untoward and can find nothing wrong. I don't have an oil pressure gauge.
Engine oil level is fine, no abnormal leaks anywhere, bottom oil pressure switch & cabling seems ok (I've previously replaced these), unable to see top OP switch & cable to check, engine still sounds as normal.
Balance of opinions so far suggests an OP electrical connection or wire issue causing a false triggering, so I'm presently thinking that on balance the van is likely still driveable?
Any other "practical" ideas/suggestions I need to consider before I commence driving it tomorrow? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken




Sent from my Samsung GALAXY.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Jon Bartlett mail@jaybe.net [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/12/2015 4:25 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 

Hi All,

Just phoned (Behr) Hella in Melbourne and they have 15 radiators coming in early January which would have to be supplied through one of their dealers (no price). I had to quote the part number from Ken’s PDF: 8MK 376 713-631. Confirmed that they are made in South Africa.

Graham, did you find out who makes the radiators made in Japan? 

-- 
Jon Bartlett
Sent with Airmail

On 30 November 2015 at 5:14:55 pm, 'Graham Adams' g.adams2@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] (syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com) wrote:

 
Ken and all
 
As Ken mentioned, Scott and I bought the thicker 45mm Behr Syncro radiators from Wyong Radiator Repairs in 2012.
I have had no problem with mine with temp needle sitting about 2 mm to left of the red light.
 
I have just rung their workshop,they are able to supply 6 of o/n  068 121  253 E which is what Ken has quoted from my order back in 2012. Can't find my original invoice.
Their supplier, Newcastle, had 12 of which there are 6 left, can get more to order.
 
The owner is a hands on mechanic who is prepared to have a look at my Syncro radiator in situ tomorrow and subject to thread  make up some sort of hose connection,push on or otherwise.
 
List price is $420 each,down to $400 each for 2 or more.I think that there is more room to move there with a bigger order.
 
They are Japanese made and have a slightly different cooling fin arrangement than ours. I remember this 45mm radiator being very much heavier than Just Campers 30mm unit.
 
Food for thought and a viable option.
 
Cheers  Graham Adams
 
 
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 10:38 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 



Hi Rowan,
Could you please check all the following, return the list with any differences you find.
Model number I think is stamped on the bottom. Syncro radiator should read "068 121 253 E"
Core thickness around 45-50mm.
Overall width (outside to outside) of plastic tanks around 648mm.
Overall height around 455mm.
Centre to centre of bottom support lugs around 642mm.
Top left is the bleeder location.
Towards bottom right (frontside) is the thermo/fan switch position
Please report back your findings or queries.
Thank you. Cheers.
Ken

-------- Original message --------
From: "Rowan Hardinge rowan.hardinge@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 29/11/2015 12:17 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest


 
I have a spare radiator in the shed Im just not sure if it is a syncro one or not. If it is it can be used for prototyping..  How can I tell? 



 
Thanks Ken,
You've done a great job of clarifying the subject.
The photos were particularly helpful.
Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2015 16:29:11 +1100






Hi Roger,
One thing I have learnt about accidentally expelling G12+ coolant is that it is a very effective albeit expensive lawn killer!


I've always lusted after a refill/air-bleed procedure that can readily be CONTROLLED by a SOLE operator ideally in a relaxed state of mind, with the convenience to be stationed only at the expansion tank from the moment after I've opened the radiator bleeder until I'm finished filling bleeding and ready to shut the motor down. By comparison, in my opinion the Bentley coolant change/bleed procedure is a disaster for a SOLE operator and never fails to fill me with terror!


RE your suggestion: "I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess."
So Roger, to perhaps extend your dream idea further ... I've often wondered how to attach (seal) and run a small flexible hose from the radiator bleeder back to the expansion bottle, so creating a complete coolant loop for the fill/bleed procedure. This would enable complete control of coolant being fed into the system and at the same time, monitor for the cessation of bled air from the loop return hose. So maybe utilising your bleed-valve idea would do it. And to make the SOLE operator job even easier, I now fit a home made attachment to the expansion tank that elevates the fill position to a convenient height that is at least above the radiator bleeder level, dependent upon jacking height of the front of the van or not. So when satisfied with filling bleeding, I can cut the 2000 rpm of the motor and not be concerned with coolant back-flushing out of the expansion tank, as it otherwise tries to do. Works for me even without the coolant loop hose, but I reckon even better setup with it. See the pics of the home made attachment.


The only issue for me perhaps against modifying the present radiator bleeder arrangement would be if modifying to a bleed/valve design, whether that would then prevent being able to manually bleed air trapped in the radiator by simply squirting coolant into the bleed hole till it's full. I find this method of occasional air-bleeding the radiator pretty handy.


Grist for the mill? Any other ideas/comments, please feel free to add to the discussion.


On another issue to do with G11 verses G12+ coolant for our vans.
Note: I have no opinion myself on this, just passing along for others to be aware of and/or comment.


I was told recently by my local mechanic that the semi-retired VW mechanic we both know told him that before the days of G12+, VW service personnel had a device or a sort of litmus test that could reveal the condition of G11 coolant in the system, the result would determine whether or not the coolant was due for replacement or not. Whereas this test was lost with introduction of G12+ formula. There may have been some other particular benefit as well, perhaps to do with original head studs V stainless steel alternatives, but I've since forgotten. In any event, it was the opinion of the semi-retired VW mechanic that we all should still be using G11 and not G12+ in our MV 2.1 water-cooled motors. In particular that G12+ was principally designed for later technology VW motors. I could perhaps seek greater clarity on this and any other matter if it was beneficial.


Cheers Roger. So far the count is seven members interested in the radiator. Lets keep it going ppl, the more the merrier!
Ken



-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 27/11/2015 10:51 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Radiator replacement



Good idea Ken. I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess.

Perhaps an all-aluminium radiator would be the go, to dispense with the troublesome plastic tanks and O ring seals.


Can we start a new thread to gauge the interest out there. I'm thinking that the more that we order, the cheaper they will be.


Roger B.





















8
Hi Aaron and all,
Thank you all for replies, I'm still on the road and exploring still, most often out of communication range, hence the delay in an update. Been a great post Macksville VW Spectacular solo adventure, still ongoing, be sorry to get home!!!!

So ever since last post, the blinking light has for the most part behaved itself, but with an occasional re-occurence for only a short interval, then stopping. Proven since to be a minor issue really ... thankfully, but intrigueing as to why it started for the first time ever on this trip.

Aaron, simply for the fact I know I've never replaced the upper OP switch and its connecting cabling, then yes, it is a likely suspect. Though I hate the idea of trying to remove the tinware to get at them because I know the bolts and nuts are badly rusted and eroded on ... means opening up a can of worms I'm really loath to start on.

Think my leave of absence expires this coming weekend. Damn!!!
Cheers.
Ken





Sent by blind carrier pigeon with lost sense of direction .... could be a problem!


-------- Original message --------
From: "Aaron Lewis aaronjlewis71@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:09/08/2018 8:02 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!

 

It sounds like your fault may be your 0.3bar switch or  it circuit, it is the switch under the motor by the push rod tubes LH side normal closed and open when the oil pressure comes up above 0.3bar, probably due for a new switch. You can try pulling the wire off it and tape it up so it can’t ground it self to any thing should stop the blinking to prove the circuit is ok if it is still blinking I would be looking for a rubbed/cut insulation on that wire. 

Should be ok to drive if no buzzer of doom, but a pressure gauge is nice.


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Wednesday, August 8, 2018, 8:11 am, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi Aaron,
Thanks for your reply.
Not heard the buzzer yet, just the blinking light while driving. Any other thoughts?
Cheers.
Ken


Sent by blind carrier pigeon with lost sense of direction .... could be a problem!


-------- Original message --------
From: "Aaron Lewis aaronjlewis71@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:07/08/2018 10:54 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!

 

Is it just at idle and with no buzzer of doom above 2000rpm?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018, 9:42 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi ALL,
If anyone has any suggestions/thoughts on the following, would be much appreciated asap.

Well it's finally happened!
After a dream run for past 11 years, the warning dash LED started blinking today out of the blue. I'm camped now about 600klms from home. Checked for anything untoward and can find nothing wrong. I don't have an oil pressure gauge.
Engine oil level is fine, no abnormal leaks anywhere, bottom oil pressure switch & cabling seems ok (I've previously replaced these), unable to see top OP switch & cable to check, engine still sounds as normal.
Balance of opinions so far suggests an OP electrical connection or wire issue causing a false triggering, so I'm presently thinking that on balance the van is likely still driveable?
Any other "practical" ideas/suggestions I need to consider before I commence driving it tomorrow? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken




Sent from my Samsung GALAXY.


-------- Original message --------
From: "Jon Bartlett mail@jaybe.net [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/12/2015 4:25 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 

Hi All,

Just phoned (Behr) Hella in Melbourne and they have 15 radiators coming in early January which would have to be supplied through one of their dealers (no price). I had to quote the part number from Ken’s PDF: 8MK 376 713-631. Confirmed that they are made in South Africa.

Graham, did you find out who makes the radiators made in Japan? 

-- 
Jon Bartlett
Sent with Airmail

On 30 November 2015 at 5:14:55 pm, 'Graham Adams' g.adams2@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] (syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com) wrote:

 
Ken and all
 
As Ken mentioned, Scott and I bought the thicker 45mm Behr Syncro radiators from Wyong Radiator Repairs in 2012.
I have had no problem with mine with temp needle sitting about 2 mm to left of the red light.
 
I have just rung their workshop,they are able to supply 6 of o/n  068 121  253 E which is what Ken has quoted from my order back in 2012. Can't find my original invoice.
Their supplier, Newcastle, had 12 of which there are 6 left, can get more to order.
 
The owner is a hands on mechanic who is prepared to have a look at my Syncro radiator in situ tomorrow and subject to thread  make up some sort of hose connection,push on or otherwise.
 
List price is $420 each,down to $400 each for 2 or more.I think that there is more room to move there with a bigger order.
 
They are Japanese made and have a slightly different cooling fin arrangement than ours. I remember this 45mm radiator being very much heavier than Just Campers 30mm unit.
 
Food for thought and a viable option.
 
Cheers  Graham Adams
 
 
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 10:38 AM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest

 



Hi Rowan,
Could you please check all the following, return the list with any differences you find.
Model number I think is stamped on the bottom. Syncro radiator should read "068 121 253 E"
Core thickness around 45-50mm.
Overall width (outside to outside) of plastic tanks around 648mm.
Overall height around 455mm.
Centre to centre of bottom support lugs around 642mm.
Top left is the bleeder location.
Towards bottom right (frontside) is the thermo/fan switch position
Please report back your findings or queries.
Thank you. Cheers.
Ken

-------- Original message --------
From: "Rowan Hardinge rowan.hardinge@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 29/11/2015 12:17 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest


 
I have a spare radiator in the shed Im just not sure if it is a syncro one or not. If it is it can be used for prototyping..  How can I tell? 



 
Thanks Ken,
You've done a great job of clarifying the subject.
The photos were particularly helpful.
Peter


--Original Message Text---
From: Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2015 16:29:11 +1100






Hi Roger,
One thing I have learnt about accidentally expelling G12+ coolant is that it is a very effective albeit expensive lawn killer!


I've always lusted after a refill/air-bleed procedure that can readily be CONTROLLED by a SOLE operator ideally in a relaxed state of mind, with the convenience to be stationed only at the expansion tank from the moment after I've opened the radiator bleeder until I'm finished filling bleeding and ready to shut the motor down. By comparison, in my opinion the Bentley coolant change/bleed procedure is a disaster for a SOLE operator and never fails to fill me with terror!


RE your suggestion: "I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess."
So Roger, to perhaps extend your dream idea further ... I've often wondered how to attach (seal) and run a small flexible hose from the radiator bleeder back to the expansion bottle, so creating a complete coolant loop for the fill/bleed procedure. This would enable complete control of coolant being fed into the system and at the same time, monitor for the cessation of bled air from the loop return hose. So maybe utilising your bleed-valve idea would do it. And to make the SOLE operator job even easier, I now fit a home made attachment to the expansion tank that elevates the fill position to a convenient height that is at least above the radiator bleeder level, dependent upon jacking height of the front of the van or not. So when satisfied with filling bleeding, I can cut the 2000 rpm of the motor and not be concerned with coolant back-flushing out of the expansion tank, as it otherwise tries to do. Works for me even without the coolant loop hose, but I reckon even better setup with it. See the pics of the home made attachment.


The only issue for me perhaps against modifying the present radiator bleeder arrangement would be if modifying to a bleed/valve design, whether that would then prevent being able to manually bleed air trapped in the radiator by simply squirting coolant into the bleed hole till it's full. I find this method of occasional air-bleeding the radiator pretty handy.


Grist for the mill? Any other ideas/comments, please feel free to add to the discussion.


On another issue to do with G11 verses G12+ coolant for our vans.
Note: I have no opinion myself on this, just passing along for others to be aware of and/or comment.


I was told recently by my local mechanic that the semi-retired VW mechanic we both know told him that before the days of G12+, VW service personnel had a device or a sort of litmus test that could reveal the condition of G11 coolant in the system, the result would determine whether or not the coolant was due for replacement or not. Whereas this test was lost with introduction of G12+ formula. There may have been some other particular benefit as well, perhaps to do with original head studs V stainless steel alternatives, but I've since forgotten. In any event, it was the opinion of the semi-retired VW mechanic that we all should still be using G11 and not G12+ in our MV 2.1 water-cooled motors. In particular that G12+ was principally designed for later technology VW motors. I could perhaps seek greater clarity on this and any other matter if it was beneficial.


Cheers Roger. So far the count is seven members interested in the radiator. Lets keep it going ppl, the more the merrier!
Ken



-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 27/11/2015 10:51 PM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Radiator replacement



Good idea Ken. I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess.

Perhaps an all-aluminium radiator would be the go, to dispense with the troublesome plastic tanks and O ring seals.


Can we start a new thread to gauge the interest out there. I'm thinking that the more that we order, the cheaper they will be.


Roger B.





















Posted by: Aaron Lewis <aaronjlewis71@yahoo.com.au>
Reply via web post • Reply to sender
9
Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.
Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse conditions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan

10
What oil did you fill it with?

Maybe it was too thin or thick?

Often its a connection that causes the issue (especially in wet windy weather) but you also said it struggled.

Now that's something to worry about - especially when its combined with warning lights and buzzers.

Can you get your mechanic to put a pressure gauge on it?

Scott

On 31/08/2018 7:54 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.

Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse cond itions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
11
I have to check last service paper to see what oil they put in - apparently he place they took it to is the good local specialist for Syncros. Out of interest what’s the best recommendation for a 220k original motor? 10W40 Helix HX5 or HX7 is what I would usually go for. 

Yes the wet/windy thing was my first guess, but the struggle up hill was unusual and strange, it felt like the motor was running on 3 cylinders intermittently. 

I’ve gotta check for the pressure, I think I might have a gauge in my toolbox, is there an obvious place to attach it to? 

Thanks Scott,
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:17, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

What oil did you fill it with?

Maybe it was too thin or thick?

Often its a connection that causes the issue (especially in wet windy weather) but you also said it struggled.

Now that's something to worry about - especially when its combined with warning lights and buzzers.

Can you get your mechanic to put a pressure gauge on it?

Scott

On 31/08/2018 7:54 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.

Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse cond itions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

12
The best place is where the idiot light sender is but that is very hard to get to.
Take out the sender and screw in the gauge.

With oil I use 20W 50 in my 2wd Caravelle as our engines are old and worn and need the thicker oil.

Could be a co-incidence with the power thing and the rainy weather.

Maybe you need new leads?


Scott


On 31/08/2018 8:33 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

I have to check last service paper to see what oil they put in - apparently he place they took it to is the good local specialist for Syncros.. Out of interest what’s the best recommendation for a 220k original motor? 10W40 Helix HX5 or HX7 is what I would usually go for.


Yes the wet/windy thing was my first guess, but the struggle up hill was unusual and strange, it felt like the motor was running on 3 cylinders intermittently.

I’ve gotta check for the pressure, I think I might have a gauge in my toolbox, is there an obvious place to attach it to?

Thanks Scott,
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:17, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

What oil did you fill it with?

Maybe it was too thin or thick?

Often its a connection that causes the issue (especially in wet windy weather) but you also said it struggled.

Now that's something to worry about - especially when its combined with warning lights and buzzers.

Can you get your mechanic to put a pressure gauge on it?

Scott

On 31/08/2018 7:54 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.

Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse cond itions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
13
It had to be the hardest place to get to innit..
Been totally trouble free for 3 days now so I reckon the struggle uphill was electrical (heavy rain n wind) as that would make more sense. Hope so anyway. 

Thanks for the oil recommendation, next change I will go thicker. 

If you meant HT leads mine are brand new!

 Cheers
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 1 Sep 2018, at 14:52, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

The best place is where the idiot light sender is but that is very hard to get to.
 Take out the sender and screw in the gauge.

With oil I use 20W 50 in my 2wd Caravelle as our engines are old and worn and need the thicker oil.

Could be a co-incidence with the power thing and the rainy weather.

Maybe you need new leads?


Scott


On 31/08/2018 8:33 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

I have to check last service paper to see what oil they put in - apparently he place they took it to is the good local specialist for Syncros.. Out of interest what’s the best recommendation for a 220k original motor? 10W40 Helix HX5 or HX7 is what I would usually go for. 


Yes the wet/windy thing was my first guess, but the struggle up hill was unusual and strange, it felt like the motor was running on 3 cylinders intermittently. 

I’ve gotta check for the pressure, I think I might have a gauge in my toolbox, is there an obvious place to attach it to? 

Thanks Scott,
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:17, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

What oil did you fill it with?

Maybe it was too thin or thick?

Often its a connection that causes the issue (especially in wet windy weather) but you also said it struggled.

Now that's something to worry about - especially when its combined with warning lights and buzzers.

Can you get your mechanic to put a pressure gauge on it?

Scott

On 31/08/2018 7:54 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.

Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse cond itions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

14
Yes HT leads are what I meant. If they are new they should be good although I have heard of dodgy new ones causing problems too.

Could easily be electrical gremlins.

I would therefore recommend adding another earth cable between the block and the chassis. Leave the existing one in place just remove, clean and reinstall each end. Earths failing can cause serious issues.

Cheers,

Scott

On 1/09/2018 5:49 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

It had to be the hardest place to get to innit..

Been totally trouble free for 3 days now so I reckon the struggle uphill was electrical (heavy rain n wind) as that would make more sense. Hope so anyway.

Thanks for the oil recommendation, next change I will go thicker.

If you meant HT leads mine are brand new!

Cheers
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 1 Sep 2018, at 14:52, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

The best place is where the idiot light sender is but that is very hard to get to.
Take out the sender and screw in the gauge.

With oil I use 20W 50 in my 2wd Caravelle as our engines are old and worn and need the thicker oil.

Could be a co-incidence with the power thing and the rainy weather.

Maybe you need new leads?


Scott


On 31/08/2018 8:33 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

I have to check last service paper to see what oil they put in - apparently he place they took it to is the good local specialist for Syncros.. Out of interest what’s the best recommendation for a 220k original motor? 10W40 Helix HX5 or HX7 is what I would usually go for.


Yes the wet/windy thing was my first guess, but the struggle up hill was unusual and strange, it felt like the motor was running on 3 cylinders intermittently.

I’ve gotta check for the pressure, I think I might have a gauge in my toolbox, is there an obvious place to attach it to?

Thanks Scott,
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:17, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

What oil did you fill it with?

Maybe it was too thin or thick?

Often its a connection that causes the issue (especially in wet windy weather) but you also said it struggled.

Now that's something to worry about - especially when its combined with warning lights and buzzers.

Can you get your mechanic to put a pressure gauge on it?

Scott

On 31/08/2018 7:54 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.

Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse cond itions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
15

Hi Gaetan,

Yeah I experienced the red blinking light coming on intermittently while away recently. It's not been a problem since ... with the van parked again in the garage! HA!


I know I've previously inspected, cleaned and lubricated most of the myriad of electrical connectors/connections one can find, but surprised today to see how many on re-inspection now looked pretty grotty .... so yes, if like me you're trying to eliminate possible causes of failure, especially on a trip away, worth spending the time to go over them all again.


Re: your new HT leads, hope you stayed with original type spec set of leads, they should be copper core and with resistors built in as per the attached pic. Actually, I tend to believe genuine T3 original OEM HT leads probably don't tend to fail and so don't need replacing (unless mistreated), unlike incorrect silicone HT leads that do eventually fail.


Good luck. Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 1 September 2018 5:49 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!
 
 

It had to be the hardest place to get to innit..

Been totally trouble free for 3 days now so I reckon the struggle uphill was electrical (heavy rain n wind) as that would make more sense. Hope so anyway. 

Thanks for the oil recommendation, next change I will go thicker. 

If you meant HT leads mine are brand new!

 Cheers
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 1 Sep 2018, at 14:52, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

The best place is where the idiot light sender is but that is very hard to get to.
 Take out the sender and screw in the gauge.

With oil I use 20W 50 in my 2wd Caravelle as our engines are old and worn and need the thicker oil.

Could be a co-incidence with the power thing and the rainy weather.

Maybe you need new leads?


Scott


On 31/08/2018 8:33 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

I have to check last service paper to see what oil they put in - apparently he place they took it to is the good local specialist for Syncros.. Out of interest what’s the best recommendation for a 220k original motor? 10W40 Helix HX5 or HX7 is what I would usually go for. 


Yes the wet/windy thing was my first guess, but the struggle up hill was unusual and strange, it felt like the motor was running on 3 cylinders intermittently. 

I’ve gotta check for the pressure, I think I might have a gauge in my toolbox, is there an obvious place to attach it to? 

Thanks Scott,
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:17, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

What oil did you fill it with?

Maybe it was too thin or thick?

Often its a connection that causes the issue (especially in wet windy weather) but you also said it struggled.

Now that's something to worry about - especially when its combined with warning lights and buzzers.

Can you get your mechanic to put a pressure gauge on it?

Scott

On 31/08/2018 7:54 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.

Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse cond itions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

16

Hi Scott,

Years ago I installed the extra earth cable starting from the base of the alternator bracket where it meets the engine block and ran it across to attach to the RHS body near the pollen filter. Also an earth wire from the AFM aluminium housing to RHS body.


Earlier this year while checking/cleaning earth cables/connectors, one I worked on was the earthing cable underneath that bolts from the transmission case and goes across to a chassis ground point. So first I wanted to remove/inspect/clean the cable connector at the transmission case end, so had to remove the bolt. The head of the bolt immediately sheared off! That meant I was down to three instead of four bolts holding the transmission in place! Not a good idea leaving it that way! Fortunately my mechanic and I successfully drilled out the bolt and fitted a new bolt, well lubricated.

Was a bit of a worry at the time though. I'd say it's been quite a long while since that bolt and that earth cable connector has been removed for inspection. It's also quite difficult , near impossible, to inject/spray a release agent into that particular bolt.


Cheers.

Ken 


From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 1 September 2018 7:03 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!
 
 

Yes HT leads are what I meant. If they are new they should be good although I have heard of dodgy new ones causing problems too.

Could easily be electrical gremlins.

I would therefore recommend adding another earth cable between the block and the chassis. Leave the existing one in place just remove, clean and reinstall each end. Earths failing can cause serious issues.

Cheers,

Scott

On 1/09/2018 5:49 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

It had to be the hardest place to get to innit..

Been totally trouble free for 3 days now so I reckon the struggle uphill was electrical (heavy rain n wind) as that would make more sense. Hope so anyway. 

Thanks for the oil recommendation, next change I will go thicker. 

If you meant HT leads mine are brand new!

 Cheers
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 1 Sep 2018, at 14:52, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

The best place is where the idiot light sender is but that is very hard to get to.
 Take out the sender and screw in the gauge.

With oil I use 20W 50 in my 2wd Caravelle as our engines are old and worn and need the thicker oil.

Could be a co-incidence with the power thing and the rainy weather.

Maybe you need new leads?


Scott


On 31/08/2018 8:33 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

I have to check last service paper to see what oil they put in - apparently he place they took it to is the good local specialist for Syncros.. Out of interest what’s the best recommendation for a 220k original motor? 10W40 Helix HX5 or HX7 is what I would usually go for. 


Yes the wet/windy thing was my first guess, but the struggle up hill was unusual and strange, it felt like the motor was running on 3 cylinders intermittently. 

I’ve gotta check for the pressure, I think I might have a gauge in my toolbox, is there an obvious place to attach it to? 

Thanks Scott,
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:17, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

What oil did you fill it with?

Maybe it was too thin or thick?

Often its a connection that causes the issue (especially in wet windy weather) but you also said it struggled.

Now that's something to worry about - especially when its combined with warning lights and buzzers.

Can you get your mechanic to put a pressure gauge on it?

Scott

On 31/08/2018 7:54 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.

Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse cond itions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

17
Hi Ken,

well, I’m going to need to do something soon as I feel I’m living on borrowed time now! 
After 3 days of trouble free driving, today coming back from a 50km drive, going downhill after a red light, bam! Flashing oil light + buzzer, constant. 
I pulled over immediately, engine still ran smooth and sounded fine, so I revved it carefully a few times on idle and it went away. 
Drove home the last 3km no probs. Oil still very clean and pretty much at top dipstick mark. 
Gonna have to give it an oil pressure test, then start digging at electrics if inconclusive... 

Let the fun begin! I have a lot of camping trips planned :-/

Sent from my iNuke

On 1 Sep 2018, at 20:54, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi Gaetan,

Yeah I experienced the red blinking light coming on intermittently while away recently. It's not been a problem since ... with the van parked again in the garage! HA!


I know I've previously inspected, cleaned and lubricated most of the myriad of electrical connectors/connections one can find, but surprised today to see how many on re-inspection now looked pretty grotty .... so yes, if like me you're trying to eliminate possible causes of failure, especially on a trip away, worth spending the time to go over them all again.


Re: your new HT leads, hope you stayed with original type spec set of leads, they should be copper core and with resistors built in as per the attached pic. Actually, I tend to believe genuine T3 original OEM HT leads probably don't tend to fail and so don't need replacing (unless mistreated), unlike incorrect silicone HT leads that do eventually fail.


Good luck. Cheers.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, 1 September 2018 5:49 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!
 
 

It had to be the hardest place to get to innit..

Been totally trouble free for 3 days now so I reckon the struggle uphill was electrical (heavy rain n wind) as that would make more sense. Hope so anyway. 

Thanks for the oil recommendation, next change I will go thicker. 

If you meant HT leads mine are brand new!

 Cheers
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 1 Sep 2018, at 14:52, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

The best place is where the idiot light sender is but that is very hard to get to.
 Take out the sender and screw in the gauge.

With oil I use 20W 50 in my 2wd Caravelle as our engines are old and worn and need the thicker oil.

Could be a co-incidence with the power thing and the rainy weather.

Maybe you need new leads?


Scott


On 31/08/2018 8:33 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

I have to check last service paper to see what oil they put in - apparently he place they took it to is the good local specialist for Syncros.. Out of interest what’s the best recommendation for a 220k original motor? 10W40 Helix HX5 or HX7 is what I would usually go for. 


Yes the wet/windy thing was my first guess, but the struggle up hill was unusual and strange, it felt like the motor was running on 3 cylinders intermittently. 

I’ve gotta check for the pressure, I think I might have a gauge in my toolbox, is there an obvious place to attach it to? 

Thanks Scott,
Gaetan

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:17, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

What oil did you fill it with?

Maybe it was too thin or thick?

Often its a connection that causes the issue (especially in wet windy weather) but you also said it struggled.

Now that's something to worry about - especially when its combined with warning lights and buzzers.

Can you get your mechanic to put a pressure gauge on it?

Scott

On 31/08/2018 7:54 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Well interestingly (and very scaringly too!) I was driving in very heavy wind and rain a couple of nights ago, and the Syncro seemed to struggle a bit going uphill around 60km/h in 3rd gear. Usually pulls up no problem at that speed and incline. A minute or so later all was fine again.

Then about 5 minutes later, I was nearing 100km/h on the freeway (flat now, no gradient) and suddenly the oil light started flashing and a buzzer sounded from the right hand of the instrument panel. I immediately slowed down and it went away. I stopped as soon as I could to check the oil and it looked good. Got to my destination carefully without any other signs, and have driven it for the past day or so (in fairer weather) without any further trouble.

Now, am I living on borrowed time? Was this a really bad sign, or possibly a freak event caused by the really adverse cond itions? I just checked the oil again cold, and it's bang on the top mark on the dipstick. Oil is still super clean, it was only renewed a few months ago just before I got the van, and I haven't done 1,000km in it yet.

Is there anything obvious I should really be checking / doing now?

FYI I am running the original 2.1L wasserbox, now on 221,000kms, in my 1992 Syncro.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

<Ignition leads.jpg>
18
The origional leads have metal caps over the spark plugs that i found to be sadly lacking if crossing water ?
Why do you think they went to that medium thought it was a bit strange for such a low engined 4x4
Any thoughts
pete 
19

Prognosis:
Exceeded VW T3 syncro spec maximum wading depth.
Did not utilise frontal wading blanket.
Forgot motor is petrol, not diesel.
You are not Rudi.

Did I miss anything?
Cheers.
Ken



Sent by blind carrier pigeon with lost sense of direction .... could be a problem!


-------- Original message --------
From: "peterw1000@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/09/2018 8:03 AM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!

 

The origional leads have metal caps over the spark plugs that i found to be sadly lacking if crossing water ?

Why do you think they went to that medium thought it was a bit strange for such a low engined 4x4
Any thoughts
pete 

20
Well maybe why a metal spark plug cap that was the question

On Mon, Sep 3, 2018 at 1:51 PM Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Prognosis:
Exceeded VW T3 syncro spec maximum wading depth.
Did not utilise frontal wading blanket.
Forgot motor is petrol, not diesel.
You are not Rudi.

Did I miss anything?
Cheers.
Ken



Sent by blind carrier pigeon with lost sense of direction .... could be a problem!


-------- Original message --------
From: "peterw1000@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]"
Date:03/09/2018 8:03 AM (GMT+10:00)
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Oil pressure dash light .. it's started blinking!

The origional leads have metal caps over the spark plugs that i found to be sadly lacking if crossing water ?

Why do you think they went to that medium thought it was a bit strange for such a low engined 4x4
Any thoughts
pete