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On 30 November 2015 at 5:14:55 pm, 'Graham Adams' email@example.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] (firstname.lastname@example.org) wrote:
Ken and allAs Ken mentioned, Scott and I bought the thicker 45mm Behr Syncro radiators from Wyong Radiator Repairs in 2012.I have had no problem with mine with temp needle sitting about 2 mm to left of the red light.I have just rung their workshop,they are able to supply 6 of o/n 068 121 253 E which is what Ken has quoted from my order back in 2012. Can't find my original invoice.Their supplier, Newcastle, had 12 of which there are 6 left, can get more to order.The owner is a hands on mechanic who is prepared to have a look at my Syncro radiator in situ tomorrow and subject to thread make up some sort of hose connection,push on or otherwise.List price is $420 each,down to $400 each for 2 or more.I think that there is more room to move there with a bigger order.They are Japanese made and have a slightly different cooling fin arrangement than ours. I remember this 45mm radiator being very much heavier than Just Campers 30mm unit.Food for thought and a viable option.Cheers Graham Adams----- Original Message -----Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 10:38 AMSubject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest
Hi Rowan,Could you please check all the following, return the list with any differences you find.Model number I think is stamped on the bottom. Syncro radiator should read "068 121 253 E"Core thickness around 45-50mm.Overall width (outside to outside) of plastic tanks around 648mm.Overall height around 455mm.Centre to centre of bottom support lugs around 642mm.Top left is the bleeder location.Towards bottom right (frontside) is the thermo/fan switch positionPlease report back your findings or queries.Thank you. Cheers.Ken
-------- Original message --------
From: "Rowan Hardinge email@example.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 29/11/2015 12:17 PM (GMT+10:00)
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Radiator Group Buy - Expressions of interest
I have a spare radiator in the shed Im just not sure if it is a syncro one or not. If it is it can be used for prototyping.. How can I tell?
You've done a great job of clarifying the subject.
The photos were particularly helpful.
--Original Message Text---
From: Ken Garratt firstname.lastname@example.org [Syncro_T3_Australia]
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 2015 16:29:11 +1100
One thing I have learnt about accidentally expelling G12+ coolant is that it is a very effective albeit expensive lawn killer!
I've always lusted after a refill/air-bleed procedure that can readily be CONTROLLED by a SOLE operator ideally in a relaxed state of mind, with the convenience to be stationed only at the expansion tank from the moment after I've opened the radiator bleeder until I'm finished filling bleeding and ready to shut the motor down. By comparison, in my opinion the Bentley coolant change/bleed procedure is a disaster for a SOLE operator and never fails to fill me with terror!
RE your suggestion: "I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess."
So Roger, to perhaps extend your dream idea further ... I've often wondered how to attach (seal) and run a small flexible hose from the radiator bleeder back to the expansion bottle, so creating a complete coolant loop for the fill/bleed procedure. This would enable complete control of coolant being fed into the system and at the same time, monitor for the cessation of bled air from the loop return hose. So maybe utilising your bleed-valve idea would do it. And to make the SOLE operator job even easier, I now fit a home made attachment to the expansion tank that elevates the fill position to a convenient height that is at least above the radiator bleeder level, dependent upon jacking height of the front of the van or not. So when satisfied with filling bleeding, I can cut the 2000 rpm of the motor and not be concerned with coolant back-flushing out of the expansion tank, as it otherwise tries to do. Works for me even without the coolant loop hose, but I reckon even better setup with it. See the pics of the home made attachment.
The only issue for me perhaps against modifying the present radiator bleeder arrangement would be if modifying to a bleed/valve design, whether that would then prevent being able to manually bleed air trapped in the radiator by simply squirting coolant into the bleed hole till it's full. I find this method of occasional air-bleeding the radiator pretty handy.
Grist for the mill? Any other ideas/comments, please feel free to add to the discussion.
On another issue to do with G11 verses G12+ coolant for our vans.
Note: I have no opinion myself on this, just passing along for others to be aware of and/or comment.
I was told recently by my local mechanic that the semi-retired VW mechanic we both know told him that before the days of G12+, VW service personnel had a device or a sort of litmus test that could reveal the condition of G11 coolant in the system, the result would determine whether or not the coolant was due for replacement or not. Whereas this test was lost with introduction of G12+ formula. There may have been some other particular benefit as well, perhaps to do with original head studs V stainless steel alternatives, but I've since forgotten. In any event, it was the opinion of the semi-retired VW mechanic that we all should still be using G11 and not G12+ in our MV 2.1 water-cooled motors. In particular that G12+ was principally designed for later technology VW motors. I could perhaps seek greater clarity on this and any other matter if it was beneficial.
Cheers Roger. So far the count is seven members interested in the radiator. Lets keep it going ppl, the more the merrier!
-------- Original message --------
From: "Roger Bayley email@example.com [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 27/11/2015 10:51 PM (GMT+10:00)
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Radiator replacement
Good idea Ken. I have always dreamed of having a bleed-valve on top of the radiator, with a flexible hose, so that you can save the coolant expelled during the bleeding process without making a mess.
Perhaps an all-aluminium radiator would be the go, to dispense with the troublesome plastic tanks and O ring seals.
Can we start a new thread to gauge the interest out there. I'm thinking that the more that we order, the cheaper they will be.