oil pump leak

1

Hello all I had to have my syncro flat bedded home last night after the low oil hazard alarm went off and on inspection oil was all over the bottom half of the engine near the pulleys. On closer inspection today it appears to be coming from below the rear seal which makes me suspect its the oil pump area leaking.

Do these engines have a history of leaking from here, and is it likely to be in the oil pump housing or the O ring? Any thoughts welcome. Greg N

2
There is an oil pressure switch there. 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 11 Sep 2016, at 4:57 PM, greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello all I had to have my syncro flat bedded home last night after the low oil hazard alarm went off and on inspection oil was all over the bottom half of the engine near the pulleys. On closer inspection today it appears to be coming from below the rear seal which makes me suspect its the oil pump area leaking.

Do these engines have a history of leaking from here, and is it likely to be in the oil pump housing or the O ring? Any thoughts welcome. Greg N

3

Thanks Greg
(There is an oil pressure switch there) is that as well as the pump and 

do you think it is more likely the problem?

If it is the issue does one have to remove the exhaust and tin shields to get to it?


4
Check the dipstick. If most of the oil is still in the sump then I would guess the reason the doom buzzer went off is the switch blew open and triggered. You need to roughly clean the area and start the engine and spot the leak. Gregor 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 11 Sep 2016, at 6:36 PM, greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 


Thanks Greg
(There is an oil pressure switch there) is that as well as the pump and 

do you think it is more likely the problem?

If it is the issue does one have to remove the exhaust and tin shields to get to it?


5
 Thanks Greg. Greg N
6

As well as the rear seal and pressure switch, there is also the oil filter, oil cooler plus a few plugs (aluminum welch plugs) sealing up oil galleries. All are potential sources of a leak as well.

Removing the belts might help get a look down there, but it's a tough area to see anything.


As mentioned, check oil level and look for the pressure switch first. The oil pump cover is not likely to blow and dump oil in a short period.

There is a second oil pressure switch between the push rods (LHS), but that would leak out thorough the push rod covers under the motor.

Richard

7
Thanks for your message Richard with Greg's previous post I am getting clearer. I agree It is a difficult place to see.   Greg N
8

If the crankshaft seal was leaking, it would be obvious - the rotating pulley would spray oil in an arc that would be easy to trace. If that is the problem, first check that the pulley hasn't just come loose. Grab it and reef it backwards and forwards - if there is more play than the thickness of a playing card it is too loose. Sometimes the bolt hasn't been torqued correctly.

The oil filter is the most likely suspect. Check it for tightness - or better still, replace it. They are known to spring a leak at the seam or past the O ring.

The "Oil Cooler" is sandwiched between the filter and the crankcase - it might have come loose (check the big nut in the middle after removing the filter, and tighten according to spec) or blown out the rubber seal between it and the crankcase.

If that doesn't solve the mystery, grab some degreaser or a gurney and clean up the area as much as possible for a visual check.

You can purchase an endoscope at Supercheap or online. Tiny inspection camera on a flexible stalk, just like they use in the operating theatre. Get the one with the LED light on the end and it is terrific for probing inaccessible places. I have the one that connects to my laptop, but there is a stand-alone model as well. Surprisingly inexpensive. 007 would have loved it.

Top up the engine oil and warm up the engine - it will take at least ten or fifteen minutes for the oil to get up to temp. (Not indoors!).

Drips on the ground will help locate the problem.

When the crankcases are hot, rev the motor up and down to build up oil pressure, then switch off and check with the endoscope for the source of the leak.

It would be better to look while the engine is running, but probing around a spinning pulley with your head next to the exhaust pipe is too dangerous to contemplate.

My bet, (if the engine hasn't been overheated or driven in the sand), is a leaking filter, oil cooler, or sender.

I had a failed pressure-sensor switch on the PAS pump last year, gave me a hell of a fright when I saw oil running out on to the road. The two oil-pressure sensors fitted to the engine are similar, and have been know to leak.

Be careful not to exceed the recommended torque when tightening them.

Cheers, Roger B.


9

Thanks for your post Roger, this is very helpful information. 
10
Just an update on the oil leak from the other day and a question.

We have the vehicle on the hoist and have found the oil pressure switch near the oil pump the source of the oil leak.  the mechanic believes he can get to it without taking off the exhaust and plates etc which will be great if he can achieve it.

Waiting on parts from Van Cafe, but is there a switch I can buy off the shelf that we can fit temporarily that can get us going?  Regards Greg N
11

Hi Greg,

See the attached pdf schematic. Worth checking the seal #4A behind the screw-in reducing piece (mounting block) marked #4 is securely in place and not the source of the leak. Requires a larger size socket than that of the switch.


It is known that the alternator belt, should it ever break, has the potential to whip off the end of the switch as it departs the engine bay, causing a bad oil leak.


This may not be enough given your present exploratory circumstances but to access the switch and its mounting block, figure out the exact position in the tinware opposite the switch and trim the tinware just enough so you can gain entry using appropriate deep socket/s. What's still left though as an issue is how to get the wired connector off and then back on to the top of the switch.

Cheers

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 22 September 2016 11:18 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] oil pump leak update
 
 

Just an update on the oil leak from the other day and a question.

We have the vehicle on the hoist and have found the oil pressure switch near the oil pump the source of the oil leak.  the mechanic believes he can get to it without taking off the exhaust and plates etc which will be great if he can achieve it.

Waiting on parts from Van Cafe, but is there a switch I can buy off the shelf that we can fit temporarily that can get us going?  Regards Greg N

12

I have my engine out at the moment, so can take some photo's if that helps seeing access (exhaust still on). I only just put all the pulleys back on Tues night, so that covers part of that area up, so would be hard to measure hex sizes (I don't remember seeing the adaptor mentioned?).


On the oil switch, depending on timing, I bought a new one from Van Café a little while ago, but am leaving the original in for now and keeping the new as a spare. I could post that to you if it helps.

I would need to check, but the thread should be standard with any switch from all older VW's, so if your mechanic has one from an old beetle/kombi/golf they should fit (just different pressure settings)


Richard

13

Just to add to the pandoras box of issues ... the oil switch wire, if its original, has been exposed to high heat over 25 years and if checked, will be found to be very degraded/hardened/brittle. Consider replacing the total length and connector from the switch back to the first line connector located back near the thermostat housing.

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 22 September 2016 11:56 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] oil pump leak update [1 Attachment]
 
 

Hi Greg,

See the attached pdf schematic. Worth checking the seal #4A behind the screw-in reducing piece (mounting block) marked #4 is securely in place and not the source of the leak. Requires a larger size socket than that of the switch.


It is known that the alternator belt, should it ever break, has the potential to whip off the end of the switch as it departs the engine bay, causing a bad oil leak.


This may not be enough given your present exploratory circumstances but to access the switch and its mounting block, figure out the exact position in the tinware opposite the switch and trim the tinware just enough so you can gain entry using appropriate deep socket/s. What's still left though as an issue is how to get the wired connector off and then back on to the top of the switch.

Cheers

Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of greg.navarro61@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, 22 September 2016 11:18 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] oil pump leak update
 
 

Just an update on the oil leak from the other day and a question.

We have the vehicle on the hoist and have found the oil pressure switch near the oil pump the source of the oil leak.  the mechanic believes he can get to it without taking off the exhaust and plates etc which will be great if he can achieve it.

Waiting on parts from Van Cafe, but is there a switch I can buy off the shelf that we can fit temporarily that can get us going?  Regards Greg N

14
The switches cannot be interchanged as one is open circuit and the other is closed circuit. Put the wrong one in and you will have the warning buzzer at 2000rpm.
15

Thanks for your help with information and offers of support, it sure helps.
Greg N
16

Oil Pressure switch arrived today, taking 5 days from California to Perth and 5 days Perth to Bunbury 200km, you have to love Australia Post.  Mechanic fitted switch without having to remove a thing only took 15 minutes.  She is running sweet. Thanks for you help. Greg N
17
Great news Greg :)