Parts availability

1
Hi,
I have been wanting to get some parts for the syncro, mainly a new alternator (the bearing is on the way out...unless its easy to replace the bearing?)
I also need an oil filler cap as I did the unthinkable...topped up the oil and then went for a short test drive only to find I had left the cap off! No oil spilled, but a long search using the car turned up nothing beside the road. Just Kampers are back ordered for both and i am a little stranded without either. (can risk the alternator and jimmy rig an oil cap, but prefer to just get the parts)
Any ideas for a quick purchase and delivery in Oz?

And while I'm here, I have a substantial list of work I want to have done on the van, for which I have most of the parts. Anyone in the Geelong or Melbourne area who can reliably take it on? Prefer to pay good rates for good work. Original engine with 170k, rebuilt by Volkwerke 10 k ago.
Work includes: Brake booster, powered steering pump, some bushes, maybe a change of springs and wheels, gear shift linkages, oil changes. I would stump up for a whole new cooling system (inc radiator) to be safe also. Can be an experienced enthusiast or full pro, as long as highly recommended.

I have been using as a work vehicle (making films) for which it has been amazing, but time to re invest rather than buy a land rover for work etc...
Many thanks
Nick
2
Hi Nick

Your local auto electrician can overhaul the alternator. The bearings wear out much quicker than a front-engine vehicle if you drive on dusty roads, so I carry a spare one on outback trips.

Check out the file Ken put together on radiator hoses. It's a beauty.

I just purchased a whole heap of hoses. After exhausting the local suppliers, had to source most of them overseas. Prices vary enormously, so shop around and also compare the freight costs.

It's possible to fabricate alternatives for some of the hoses with judicious use of plumbing or irrigation pipe angles and reducers.

Consider the use of stainless steel "Christmas trees" and reservoirs to replace the original plastic ones - or carry spares. Although new plastic parts are available, they are usually inferior.

Most of my problems over the last twenty years have been due to coolant issues, so it is worth replacing the entire system if you want reliability in the middle of nowhere.

Cheers,

Roger.
3
Hi Nick and Roger and Forum Moderator,
Worrisome that Rogers post arrived in my email account ok today but the post Roger replied to from Nick has gone AWOL! I was forced to go into the forum to find and read Nicks prior post.

In recent times, my forum posts experience has been similar ... receipt of forum posts to my email account has been intermittent ... some arrive, some don't. Might partly explain why the forum appears quiet? I've never changed my email preferences in Yahoo syncro forum away from "receive all posts to my email address". Go figure. Fixable?

Oil Filler Cap part # 070115311 
Nick, to avoid losing your oil cap, always make it your practice to remove the cap, swing fully open the spring-loaded access flap and wedge the cap in the space between the flap hinges. Works a treat, fits nicely and hard to forget. It would be difficult to think you could then STILL drive away with the flap fully open AND with the oil cap still wedged in. Yes?

Perhaps first try Volkwerke or some other recognised Melbourne T3 service outlet for replacement oil filler cap.
Or try your local VW service/parts centre.

Alternator ... supplementary support bracket
Every T3 should have either one of these add-on bracket kits installed, to avoid the catastrophe of the bolts holding the original bracket from being ripped out of the engine casing when the alternator starts shaking/pulling the bolts out!
I have the original version from many years ago, similar to the first listed one above. Offers great peace of mind.
 
Silicone Coolant Hose Kit
I don't have the complete set of silicone hoses installed, due to the complete set being unavailable at the time. But I wish I had. The only downside in my view is the removal/loss of the original spring clips from the coolant system, maybe they are too small for the thicker walled silicone hoses. I've had no issues ever since with the silicone hoses I have, I'm expecting they will serve the remaining life of the van.

Overhauling the complete coolant system is a pure labour of love, definitely worth doing and doing well. You learn all about patience, persistence and in due course, really appreciate that journey you took  doing it and reap the rewards ever after.
I also disagree with the populist brainwashing that's gone on for so long about replacing the long nylon coolant pipes with stainless steel. Just take the time and FIX the nylon pipes in situ. I did. Learnt a lot in the process. No problem ever since, it's been years. Funnily enough, Rudi agrees with me.

Cheers and good luck with the overhaul.
Ken



4
Hi Ken,

I think it is Yahoo - they seem to be good sometimes and not others.

The email notification part of the site is not very reliable unfortunately - happens to me too.

Nice comprehensive [post about the parts requested too.

Thanks again.

Cheers,

Scott

On 7/06/2019 5:27 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Hi Nick and Roger and Forum Moderator,
Worrisome that Rogers post arrived in my email account ok today but the post Roger replied to from Nick has gone AWOL! I was forced to go into the forum to find and read Nicks prior post.

In recent times, my forum posts experience has been similar ... receipt of forum posts to my email account has been intermittent ... some arrive, some don't. Might partly explain why the forum appears quiet? I've never changed my email preferences in Yahoo syncro forum away from "receive all posts to my email address". Go figure. Fixable?

Oil Filler Cap part # 070115311
Nick, to avoid losing your oil cap, always make it your practice to remove the cap, swing fully open the spring-loaded access flap and wedge the cap in the space between the flap hinges. Works a treat, fits nicely and hard to forget. It would be difficult to think you could then STILL drive away with the flap fully open AND with the oil cap still wedged in. Yes?

Perhaps first try Volkwerke or some other recognised Melbourne T3 service outlet for replacement oil filler cap.
Or try your local VW service/parts centre.

Alternator ... supplementary support bracket
Every T3 should have either one of these add-on bracket kits installed, to avoid the catastrophe of the bolts holding the original bracket from being ripped out of the engine casing when the alternator starts shaking/pulling the bolts out!
I have the original version from many years ago, similar to the first listed one above. Offers great peace of mind.
Silicone Coolant Hose Kit
I don't have the complete set of silicone hoses installed, due to the complete set being unavailable at the time. But I wish I had. The only downside in my view is the removal/loss of the original spring clips from the coolant system, maybe they are too small for the thicker walled silicone hoses. I've had no issues ever since with the silicone hoses I have, I'm expecting they will serve the remaining life of the van.

Overhauling the complete coolant system is a pure labour of love, definitely worth doing and doing well. You learn all about patience, persistence and in due course, really appreciate that journey you took doing it and reap the rewards ever after.
I also disagree with the populist brainwashing that's gone on for so long about replacing the long nylon coolant pipes with stainless steel. Just take the time and FIX the nylon pipes in situ. I did. Learnt a lot in the process. No problem ever since, it's been years. Funnily enough, Rudi agrees with me.

Cheers and good luck with the overhaul.
Ken



From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 7 June 2019 1:19 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Parts availability

Hi Nick

Your local auto electrician can overhaul the alternator. The bearings wear out much quicker than a front-engine vehicle if you drive on dusty roads, so I carry a spare one on outback trips.

Check out the file Ken put together on radiator hoses. It's a beauty.

I just purchased a whole heap of hoses. After exhausting the local suppliers, had to source most of them overseas. Prices vary enormously, so shop around and also compare the freight costs.

It's possible to fabricate alternatives for some of the hoses with judicious use of plumbing or irrigation pipe angles and reducers.

Consider the use of stainless steel "Christmas trees" and reservoirs to replace the original plastic ones - or carry spares.. Although new plastic parts are available, they are usually inferior.

Most of my problems over the last twenty years have been due to coolant issues, so it is worth replacing the entire system if you want reliability in the middle of nowhere.

Cheers,

Roger.


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
5

Good advice Ken as always. I installed both the GoWesty brackets a few months ago. Bit of fiddling to install but it makes it all very solid indeed. Just one more thing to stop worrying about with our vans. Cheers, Peter from Port

6
Don't you love it when you find a heap of mails in your SPAM folder a week later...
I appreciate the response and sorry for not acknowledging them.

As it turns out, the engine is buggered. I pulled a lifter that wouldn't pump up (after even an hour of driving) and found to my horror that the lifter is stuck in the bore because the Cam end has been mushroomed... The base of the lifter at the cam end has worn right through creating a wear hole into the engine! I can't get the lifter out (just its internals) so cannot ascertain the damage to the lobe (cylinder number 1) but I can only assume the lobe is buggered. I am loathe to try and pry out the lifter as it may damage the bore, causing even more damage, although I have heard of people doing this just get the engine operational to drive to a rebuilder etc. The engine has 169ks on it from new.
I paid 6k about 5000 kms ago for a total rebuild by Volkewerke, but had some bad experiences there so assume that the rebuild may have not included proper running in of new components for work hardening etc. 
So, the ultimate question from people with experience; to have rebuilt again or to replace with Subi. 
I intend using the van as a regular driver for my work sit is so ideal, and would consider a gearbox rebuild and definitely new cooling system at the same time. (gearbox if Subi just to be sure, not if stays WBX).
I would rather pay good money for a warrantied job bearing in mind it is a work tax deduction, gst deduction etc. I then would consider keeping the WBX and rebuilding myself over a couple of years as it is always nice to have original engine with an original vehicle longing the future (or maybe that is madness).
The dream would be to go electric, but I imagine other shave researched that and found it lacking or insanely expensive.

If WBX, where to go in Vic, and do you (Greg E) do engine rebuilds? 
If Subi, is there a Vic mob that do it with the correct Smallcar adapters and so on?

I know I am looking at big bucks, but with our awesome machines the only viable alternative I have found after exhaustive research is a Landrover discovery (gear space, off road ability). So that would be a 50k car, vs a possible 20 k engine/drivetrain/colling system overhaul.

For me, top dollar for top work is the priority as I need dependability ( as much as ca be had for a 27 yr old vehicle)

I pondering buying another syncro to tide me over while the overhaul is done as we are a vehicle short, and they seem to hold their value a fair bit better than a land rover!
Anyone selling, is Marks still for sale and a good purchase...
Any thoughts greatly appreciated, and any capable hands up to take on the work also greatly appreciated!
If there is an 'easy fish' fix for a buggered lifter and possibly buggered cam lobe, please let me know!
Kindest regards
Nick

On Friday, 7 June 2019, 1:19:18 pm AEST, Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Hi Nick

Your local auto electrician can overhaul the alternator. The bearings wear out much quicker than a front-engine vehicle if you drive on dusty roads, so I carry a spare one on outback trips.

Check out the file Ken put together on radiator hoses. It's a beauty.

 I just purchased a whole heap of hoses. After exhausting the local suppliers, had to source most of them overseas. Prices vary enormously, so shop around and also compare the freight costs.

It's possible to fabricate alternatives for some of the hoses with judicious use of plumbing or irrigation pipe angles and reducers. 

Consider the use of stainless steel "Christmas trees" and reservoirs to replace the original plastic ones - or carry spares.. Although new plastic parts are available, they are usually inferior.

Most of my problems over the last twenty years have been due to coolant issues, so it is worth replacing the entire system if you want reliability in the middle of nowhere.

Cheers,

Roger.
7
Hi Nick, Yes I do rebuilds on wbx. Your right about that lifter, it needs to be removed after the cases are seperated. Give me a call if you want to discuss. Greg E

On Thursday, 20 June 2019, 2:28:03 pm AEST, Nicholas Fletcher nwjfletcher@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Don't you love it when you find a heap of mails in your SPAM folder a week later...
I appreciate the response and sorry for not acknowledging them.

As it turns out, the engine is buggered. I pulled a lifter that wouldn't pump up (after even an hour of driving) and found to my horror that the lifter is stuck in the bore because the Cam end has been mushroomed... The base of the lifter at the cam end has worn right through creating a wear hole into the engine! I can't get the lifter out (just its internals) so cannot ascertain the damage to the lobe (cylinder number 1) but I can only assume the lobe is buggered. I am loathe to try and pry out the lifter as it may damage the bore, causing even more damage, although I have heard of people doing this just get the engine operational to drive to a rebuilder etc. The engine has 169ks on it from new.
I paid 6k about 5000 kms ago for a total rebuild by Volkewerke, but had some bad experiences there so assume that the rebuild may have not included proper running in of new components for work hardening etc. 
So, the ultimate question from people with experience; to have rebuilt again or to replace with Subi. 
I intend using the van as a regular driver for my work sit is so ideal, and would consider a gearbox rebuild and definitely new cooling system at the same time. (gearbox if Subi just to be sure, not if stays WBX).
I would rather pay good money for a warrantied job bearing in mind it is a work tax deduction, gst deduction etc. I then would consider keeping the WBX and rebuilding myself over a couple of years as it is always nice to have original engine with an original vehicle longing the future (or maybe that is madness).
The dream would be to go electric, but I imagine other shave researched that and found it lacking or insanely expensive.

If WBX, where to go in Vic, and do you (Greg E) do engine rebuilds? 
If Subi, is there a Vic mob that do it with the correct Smallcar adapters and so on?

I know I am looking at big bucks, but with our awesome machines the only viable alternative I have found after exhaustive research is a Landrover discovery (gear space, off road ability). So that would be a 50k car, vs a possible 20 k engine/drivetrain/colling system overhaul.

For me, top dollar for top work is the priority as I need dependability ( as much as ca be had for a 27 yr old vehicle)

I pondering buying another syncro to tide me over while the overhaul is done as we are a vehicle short, and they seem to hold their value a fair bit better than a land rover!
Anyone selling, is Marks still for sale and a good purchase...
Any thoughts greatly appreciated, and any capable hands up to take on the work also greatly appreciated!
If there is an 'easy fish' fix for a buggered lifter and possibly buggered cam lobe, please let me know!
Kindest regards
Nick

On Friday, 7 June 2019, 1:19:18 pm AEST, Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

Hi Nick

Your local auto electrician can overhaul the alternator. The bearings wear out much quicker than a front-engine vehicle if you drive on dusty roads, so I carry a spare one on outback trips.

Check out the file Ken put together on radiator hoses. It's a beauty.

 I just purchased a whole heap of hoses. After exhausting the local suppliers, had to source most of them overseas. Prices vary enormously, so shop around and also compare the freight costs.

It's possible to fabricate alternatives for some of the hoses with judicious use of plumbing or irrigation pipe angles and reducers. 

Consider the use of stainless steel "Christmas trees" and reservoirs to replace the original plastic ones - or carry spares.. Although new plastic parts are available, they are usually inferior.

Most of my problems over the last twenty years have been due to coolant issues, so it is worth replacing the entire system if you want reliability in the middle of nowhere.

Cheers,

Roger.