R&R Water pump

1
All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 
2

All very exciting, Ken, looks  like you can come up here after all. You could then help me installing the aircon comp bracket. Looks like I have to remove the left hand side air intake manifold to get one of the 4 bolts in.

 

Let us know how you are going..

Hart

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 6 December 2010 12:49 PM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

3

Ken,

I am up to my armpits in too many things at the moment and I haven’t been reading the posts closely. 

Could you please tell me which Scott and what particular advice you found so useful.

Thanks

Les

(By the way, molybdenum disulphide is a very good thread lubricant in either the dry or the paste form.  I have used it for a long time.)

 

 

 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: 06 December 2010 12:49
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot.

4
 
re
Looks like I have to remove the left hand side air intake manifold to get one of the 4 bolts in.
 
yup...you do...have to remove the two left intake runners .
leave the plenum in place though...
just the intake runners out to the cylinder head,
then you can access all the AC bracket bolts.
 
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 6:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All very exciting, Ken, looks  like you can come up here after all. You could then help me installing the aircon comp bracket. Looks like I have to remove the left hand side air intake manifold to get one of the 4 bolts in.

Let us know how you are going..

Hart

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 6 December 2010 12:49 PM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

5

Thank you Scott,

 

Yep, I will do this, just waiting for Ken to give me assistance but he doesn’t want to know.....! silencia—will have to do it myself.   Hartis,  home is where the hart is (BenT)

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Sent: Monday, 6 December 2010 2:04 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

 

re

Looks like I have to remove the left hand side air intake manifold to get one of the 4 bolts in.

 

yup...you do...have to remove the two left intake runners .

leave the plenum in place though...

just the intake runners out to the cylinder head,

then you can access all the AC bracket bolts.

 

Scott

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 6:21 PM

Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

All very exciting, Ken, looks  like you can come up here after all. You could then help me installing the aircon comp bracket. Looks like I have to remove the left hand side air intake manifold to get one of the 4 bolts in.

Let us know how you are going..

Hart

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Monday, 6 December 2010 12:49 PM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

6
Les,
Its Scot of US turbovans who has been posting to this topic, can you simply review this topics posts?
Ken



-----Original Message-----
From: Les Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au>
Sent: Monday, 6 December 2010 1:30 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump


Ken,
I am up to my armpits in too many things at the moment and I haven't been reading the posts closely.
Could you please tell me which Scott and what particular advice you found so useful.
Thanks
Les
(By the way, molybdenum disulphide is a very good thread lubricant in either the dry or the paste form. I have used it for a long time.)





From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: 06 December 2010 12:49
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot.
7
hi Ken,
re
Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.
 
I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.
 
as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .
 
Scott
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

8
All,
Working on this as time permits ... each individual step a first time challenge, often the wrong methodology chosen and ending up going around and around in circles ad infinitum.
 
Good news though. Finally late yesterday, I figured it out! A moment of rare brilliance! So now the old WP is removed! Big challenge, that big step taken  ... at last!
 
So here is a list of things to NOT DO in any attempt at removing the old WP from its 3 x mounting studs. Scenario is, it is being obstructed due to the interfering presence of the RHS horizontal coolant pipe, which is very much locked in there as well: ....
 
DO NOT wholly nor partly remove the main drive pulley. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT mess AT ALL with the straight rubber hose joining the 2 metal pipe sections of the aformentioned interfering coolant pipe NOR mess with its 2 x screw clips. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT remove the RH end flange of that same coolant pipe from its connection to the RHS cylinders. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT just "fiddle" nor just "juggle" the interfering coolant pipe to attemp to release the WP. Just won't happen!
 
DO use a small pinch (lever) bar that fits the adjacent confined available space and bearing in mind at all times you need to keep that bar out of the space that the WP needs for it to move rearwards to free it from the studs. To that end, you must use that pinch bar and LEVER THE CRAP OUT OF THE LH END OF THAT INTERFERING PIPE  .... REARWARDS!
 
The reward is .... you will achieve the requisite clearance space to enable the WP to dismount off the mounting studs and voila .... it comes free!! No damage done.
 
I only wish someone had said this to me earlier in these strongest of terms ... would have saved me a whole lot of grief, energy and wasted time.
 
Still the saga continues. Next is the removal of the OC and accessories.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 19:00:41 -0800
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 
hi Ken,
re
Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.
 
I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.
 
as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .
 
Scott
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 


9
Ken,
 
With all this DIY stuff you'll son be doing minor surgery on yourself. I'll be very interested in those posts as these VW waterpumps are not really relevant to me or Ben C now and quite a few others.
 
Well done on the extraction - maybe you could take up dentistry or gynaecology?
 
Cheers,
 
Skot
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 3:47 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All,
Working on this as time permits ... each individual step a first time challenge, often the wrong methodology chosen and ending up going around and around in circles ad infinitum.
 
Good news though. Finally late yesterday, I figured it out! A moment of rare brilliance! So now the old WP is removed! Big challenge, that big step taken  ... at last!
 
So here is a list of things to NOT DO in any attempt at removing the old WP from its 3 x mounting studs. Scenario is, it is being obstructed due to the interfering presence of the RHS horizontal coolant pipe, which is very much locked in there as well: ....
 
DO NOT wholly nor partly remove the main drive pulley. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT mess AT ALL with the straight rubber hose joining the 2 metal pipe sections of the aformentioned interfering coolant pipe NOR mess with its 2 x screw clips. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT remove the RH end flange of that same coolant pipe from its connection to the RHS cylinders. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT just "fiddle" nor just "juggle" the interfering coolant pipe to attemp to release the WP. Just won't happen!
 
DO use a small pinch (lever) bar that fits the adjacent confined available space and bearing in mind at all times you need to keep that bar out of the space that the WP needs for it to move rearwards to free it from the studs. To that end, you must use that pinch bar and LEVER THE CRAP OUT OF THE LH END OF THAT INTERFERING PIPE  .... REARWARDS!
 
The reward is .... you will achieve the requisite clearance space to enable the WP to dismount off the mounting studs and voila .... it comes free!! No damage done.
 
I only wish someone had said this to me earlier in these strongest of terms ... would have saved me a whole lot of grief, energy and wasted time.
 
Still the saga continues. Next is the removal of the OC and accessories.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 19:00:41 -0800
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 
hi Ken,
re
Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.
 
I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.
 
as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .
 
Scott
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 


10

Ken, very well done, I was able to print your instructions, (a first for me) because I want to replace my Trakka one,  little bit like they do it in the aero industry, 245 000 k , stick a new one in. In the Tristar it lasted 325 000 ks. And maybe I can resurrect the replaced one with new bearing and seal. Who knows, but would be good.

Have you thought about changing over the hydr. Lifters ?  $190 for a set. You can do it without touching the heads but it would involve 8 adjustable push rod tubes.

Took my Tristar for a pink recently and the Mike guy said that the brakes  ( 4 x Audi with original booster) will not pass the test next year ! It is the loss of engine performance (compression) and hence the loss of boost at 390 000 ks....We all are getting on (old) together with those beloved cars of ours... Really a bit sad.

Hartis

 

All,
Working on this as time permits ... each individual step a first time challenge, often the wrong methodology chosen and ending up going around and around in circles ad infinitum.
 
Good news though. Finally late yesterday, I figured it out! A moment of rare brilliance! So now the old WP is removed! Big challenge, that big step taken  ... at last!
 
So here is a list of things to NOT DO in any attempt at removing the old WP from its 3 x mounting studs. Scenario is, it is being obstructed due to the interfering presence of the RHS horizontal coolant pipe, which is very much locked in there as well: ....
 
DO NOT wholly nor partly remove the main drive pulley. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT mess AT ALL with the straight rubber hose joining the 2 metal pipe sections of the aformentioned interfering coolant pipe NOR mess with its 2 x screw clips. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT remove the RH end flange of that same coolant pipe from its connection to the RHS cylinders. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT just "fiddle" nor just "juggle" the interfering coolant pipe to attemp to release the WP. Just won't happen!
 
DO use a small pinch (lever) bar that fits the adjacent confined available space and bearing in mind at all times you need to keep that bar out of the space that the WP needs for it to move rearwards to free it from the studs. To that end, you must use that pinch bar and LEVER THE CRAP OUT OF THE LH END OF THAT INTERFERING PIPE  .... REARWARDS!
 
The reward is .... you will achieve the requisite clearance space to enable the WP to dismount off the mounting studs and voila .... it comes free!! No damage done.
 
I only wish someone had said this to me earlier in these strongest of terms ... would have saved me a whole lot of grief, energy and wasted time.
 
Still the saga continues. Next is the removal of the OC and accessories.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 19:00:41 -0800
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

hi Ken,

re

Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.

 

I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.

 

as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .

 

Scott

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM

Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

 

11
Well done Kenny.You will find that working on Syncros,you do alot of removing things(sometimes unneccesary),to get to other things.
If it looks like it is in the way,you will probably have to remove it.Isnt that the first line in the manual??


--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Mr Scott Pitcher" <spbconsulting@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> With all this DIY stuff you'll son be doing minor surgery on yourself. I'll be very interested in those posts as these VW waterpumps are not really relevant to me or Ben C now and quite a few others.
>
> Well done on the extraction - maybe you could take up dentistry or gynaecology?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Skot
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Garratt
> To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
> Sent: Friday, December 10, 2010 3:47 PM
> Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump
>
>
>
> All,
> Working on this as time permits ... each individual step a first time challenge, often the wrong methodology chosen and ending up going around and around in circles ad infinitum.
>
> Good news though. Finally late yesterday, I figured it out! A moment of rare brilliance! So now the old WP is removed! Big challenge, that big step taken ... at last!
>
> So here is a list of things to NOT DO in any attempt at removing the old WP from its 3 x mounting studs. Scenario is, it is being obstructed due to the interfering presence of the RHS horizontal coolant pipe, which is very much locked in there as well: ....
>
> DO NOT wholly nor partly remove the main drive pulley. DO NOT TOUCH!
> DO NOT mess AT ALL with the straight rubber hose joining the 2 metal pipe sections of the aformentioned interfering coolant pipe NOR mess with its 2 x screw clips. DO NOT TOUCH!
> DO NOT remove the RH end flange of that same coolant pipe from its connection to the RHS cylinders. DO NOT TOUCH!
> DO NOT just "fiddle" nor just "juggle" the interfering coolant pipe to attemp to release the WP. Just won't happen!
>
> DO use a small pinch (lever) bar that fits the adjacent confined available space and bearing in mind at all times you need to keep that bar out of the space that the WP needs for it to move rearwards to free it from the studs. To that end, you must use that pinch bar and LEVER THE CRAP OUT OF THE LH END OF THAT INTERFERING PIPE .... REARWARDS!
>
> The reward is .... you will achieve the requisite clearance space to enable the WP to dismount off the mounting studs and voila .... it comes free!! No damage done.
>
> I only wish someone had said this to me earlier in these strongest of terms ... would have saved me a whole lot of grief, energy and wasted time.
>
> Still the saga continues. Next is the removal of the OC and accessories.
>
> Cheers.
> Ken
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: ScottDaniel@...
> Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 19:00:41 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump
>
>
> hi Ken,
> re
> Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.
>
> I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.
>
> as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Garratt
> To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
> Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump
>
>
>
> All,
>
> As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
>
> Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
> Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
>
> A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
> "*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
>
> So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
>
> Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Ken
>
12
Hartmut,
Yeah I just love it when you give me all this extra syncro work, I know you mean well  ... NOT!

I'ts starting to dawn on me that the biggest beneficiary of all this blood, sweat and tears is the next owner!! Why do we do it?

Cheers.

Ken



To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: hartis@live.com.au
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 16:32:43 +1100
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

Ken, very well done, I was able to print your instructions, (a first for me) because I want to replace my Trakka one,  little bit like they do it in the aero industry, 245 000 k , stick a new one in. In the Tristar it lasted 325 000 ks. And maybe I can resurrect the replaced one with new bearing and seal. Who knows, but would be good.

Have you thought about changing over the hydr. Lifters ?  $190 for a set. You can do it without touching the heads but it would involve 8 adjustable push rod tubes.

Took my Tristar for a pink recently and the Mike guy said that the brakes  ( 4 x Audi with original booster) will not pass the test next year ! It is the loss of engine performance (compression) and hence the loss of boost at 390 000 ks....We all are getting on (old) together with those beloved cars of ours... Really a bit sad.

Hartis

 

All,
Working on this as time permits ... each individual step a first time challenge, often the wrong methodology chosen and ending up going around and around in circles ad infinitum.
 
Good news though. Finally late yesterday, I figured it out! A moment of rare brilliance! So now the old WP is removed! Big challenge, that big step taken  ... at last!
 
So here is a list of things to NOT DO in any attempt at removing the old WP from its 3 x mounting studs. Scenario is, it is being obstructed due to the interfering presence of the RHS horizontal coolant pipe, which is very much locked in there as well: ....
 
DO NOT wholly nor partly remove the main drive pulley. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT mess AT ALL with the straight rubber hose joining the 2 metal pipe sections of the aformentioned interfering coolant pipe NOR mess with its 2 x screw clips. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT remove the RH end flange of that same coolant pipe from its connection to the RHS cylinders. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT just "fiddle" nor just "juggle" the interfering coolant pipe to attemp to release the WP. Just won't happen!
 
DO use a small pinch (lever) bar that fits the adjacent confined available space and bearing in mind at all times you need to keep that bar out of the space that the WP needs for it to move rearwards to free it from the studs. To that end, you must use that pinch bar and LEVER THE CRAP OUT OF THE LH END OF THAT INTERFERING PIPE  .... REARWARDS!
 
The reward is .... you will achieve the requisite clearance space to enable the WP to dismount off the mounting studs and voila .... it comes free!! No damage done.
 
I only wish someone had said this to me earlier in these strongest of terms ... would have saved me a whole lot of grief, energy and wasted time.
 
Still the saga continues. Next is the removal of the OC and accessories.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 19:00:41 -0800
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

hi Ken,

re

Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.

 

I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.

 

as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .

 

Scott

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM

Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

 


13

Ken, don’t know the answer, I ‘m trying to slow down , with little to no success . So far only sold the Caddy, but that was an easy one, doesn’t count really ‘cause it was a trade for a new POLO  TDI

for her. She liked the Panorama glass roof so has to wait as they only start production of this version in Jan.11. Gives me some breathing space to clear a spot in the long shed (the garage).

Ken, never give up, ‘cause if you do , you possibly will have to fill the space behind the steering wheel in a Sunliner camper almost new for 5 G, and WHO WILL BE YOUR FRIENDS THEN///???

That should answer your question ‘why do we do it’     hartransplant  (by Roger)

 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ken Garratt
Sent: Friday, 10 December 2010 11:08 PM
To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

Hartmut,

Yeah I just love it when you give me all this extra syncro work, I know you mean well  ... NOT!

 

I'ts starting to dawn on me that the biggest beneficiary of all this blood, sweat and tears is the next owner!! Why do we do it?

 

Cheers.

 

Ken

 

 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: hartis@live.com.au
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 16:32:43 +1100
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

Ken, very well done, I was able to print your instructions, (a first for me) because I want to replace my Trakka one,  little bit like they do it in the aero industry, 245 000 k , stick a new one in. In the Tristar it lasted 325 000 ks. And maybe I can resurrect the replaced one with new bearing and seal. Who knows, but would be good.

Have you thought about changing over the hydr. Lifters ?  $190 for a set. You can do it without touching the heads but it would involve 8 adjustable push rod tubes.

Took my Tristar for a pink recently and the Mike guy said that the brakes  ( 4 x Audi with original booster) will not pass the test next year ! It is the loss of engine performance (compression) and hence the loss of boost at 390 000 ks....We all are getting on (old) together with those beloved cars of ours... Really a bit sad.

Hartis

 

All,
Working on this as time permits ... each individual step a first time challenge, often the wrong methodology chosen and ending up going around and around in circles ad infinitum.
 
Good news though. Finally late yesterday, I figured it out! A moment of rare brilliance! So now the old WP is removed! Big challenge, that big step taken  ... at last!
 
So here is a list of things to NOT DO in any attempt at removing the old WP from its 3 x mounting studs. Scenario is, it is being obstructed due to the interfering presence of the RHS horizontal coolant pipe, which is very much locked in there as well: ....
 
DO NOT wholly nor partly remove the main drive pulley. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT mess AT ALL with the straight rubber hose joining the 2 metal pipe sections of the aformentioned interfering coolant pipe NOR mess with its 2 x screw clips. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT remove the RH end flange of that same coolant pipe from its connection to the RHS cylinders. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT just "fiddle" nor just "juggle" the interfering coolant pipe to attemp to release the WP. Just won't happen!
 
DO use a small pinch (lever) bar that fits the adjacent confined available space and bearing in mind at all times you need to keep that bar out of the space that the WP needs for it to move rearwards to free it from the studs. To that end, you must use that pinch bar and LEVER THE CRAP OUT OF THE LH END OF THAT INTERFERING PIPE  .... REARWARDS!
 
The reward is .... you will achieve the requisite clearance space to enable the WP to dismount off the mounting studs and voila .... it comes free!! No damage done.
 
I only wish someone had said this to me earlier in these strongest of terms ... would have saved me a whole lot of grief, energy and wasted time.
 
Still the saga continues. Next is the removal of the OC and accessories.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 19:00:41 -0800
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

hi Ken,

re

Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.

 

I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.

 

as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .

 

Scott

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM

Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

 

 

14
re

Have you thought about changing over the hydr. Lifters ?  $190 for a set. You can do it without touching the heads but it would involve 8 adjustable push rod tubes.

 

I all cases of noisy hydruclic lifters ( assuming that'st the issue ) on waterboxer vanagons I have been able to treat them w ith 'hydrualic lifter cleaner' oil addtive.  It's taken a *long* time to get some to be quiet again ....like months of regular operation even .

  On vans that have sat a long time, or had noisy lifters for a long time..it has taken a lot of regular mainly daily operation with cleaner addive to get them to be quiet again ..but eventually they always do get quiet again.

  Operating the engine for short peroids, like to back the van out of a garage say ..

will contribute to lifters being noisy.

 

 The adjustable push rod tubes can leak oil , so I don't conisder them desireable  to use, unless you have to.

 

scott

www.turbovans.com

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 9:32 PM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

Ken, very well done, I was able to print your instructions, (a first for me) because I want to replace my Trakka one,  little bit like they do it in the aero industry, 245 000 k , stick a new one in. In the Tristar it lasted 325 000 ks. And maybe I can resurrect the replaced one with new bearing and seal. Who knows, but would be good.

Have you thought about changing over the hydr. Lifters ?  $190 for a set. You can do it without touching the heads but it would involve 8 adjustable push rod tubes.

Took my Tristar for a pink recently and the Mike guy said that the brakes  ( 4 x Audi with original booster) will not pass the test next year ! It is the loss of engine performance (compression) and hence the loss of boost at 390 000 ks....We all are getting on (old) together with those beloved cars of ours... Really a bit sad.

Hartis

 

All,
Working on this as time permits ... each individual step a first time challenge, often the wrong methodology chosen and ending up going around and around in circles ad infinitum.
 
Good news though. Finally late yesterday, I figured it out! A moment of rare brilliance! So now the old WP is removed! Big challenge, that big step taken  ... at last!
 
So here is a list of things to NOT DO in any attempt at removing the old WP from its 3 x mounting studs. Scenario is, it is being obstructed due to the interfering presence of the RHS horizontal coolant pipe, which is very much locked in there as well: ....
 
DO NOT wholly nor partly remove the main drive pulley. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT mess AT ALL with the straight rubber hose joining the 2 metal pipe sections of the aformentioned interfering coolant pipe NOR mess with its 2 x screw clips. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT remove the RH end flange of that same coolant pipe from its connection to the RHS cylinders. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT just "fiddle" nor just "juggle" the interfering coolant pipe to attemp to release the WP. Just won't happen!
 
DO use a small pinch (lever) bar that fits the adjacent confined available space and bearing in mind at all times you need to keep that bar out of the space that the WP needs for it to move rearwards to free it from the studs. To that end, you must use that pinch bar and LEVER THE CRAP OUT OF THE LH END OF THAT INTERFERING PIPE  .... REARWARDS!
 
The reward is .... you will achieve the requisite clearance space to enable the WP to dismount off the mounting studs and voila .... it comes free!! No damage done.
 
I only wish someone had said this to me earlier in these strongest of terms ... would have saved me a whole lot of grief, energy and wasted time.
 
Still the saga continues. Next is the removal of the OC and accessories.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 19:00:41 -0800
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

hi Ken,

re

Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.

I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.

as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .

Scott

----- Original Message -----

From: Ken Garratt

Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM

Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

15

Thanks for that Scott, I too think it to be better  to do a top end overhaul if need be e.g. when the tappets sound like a  50yr old  Olympic typewriter in full action.....  Hart

 

 

 

 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Sent: Saturday, 11 December 2010 9:00 AM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

re

Have you thought about changing over the hydr. Lifters ?  $190 for a set. You can do it without touching the heads but it would involve 8 adjustable push rod tubes.

 

I all cases of noisy hydruclic lifters ( assuming that'st the issue ) on waterboxer vanagons I have been able to treat them w ith 'hydrualic lifter cleaner' oil addtive.  It's taken a *long* time to get some to be quiet again ....like months of regular operation even .

  On vans that have sat a long time, or had noisy lifters for a long time..it has taken a lot of regular mainly daily operation with cleaner addive to get them to be quiet again ..but eventually they always do get quiet again.

  Operating the engine for short peroids, like to back the van out of a garage say ..

will contribute to lifters being noisy.

 

 The adjustable push rod tubes can leak oil , so I don't conisder them desireable  to use, unless you have to.

 

scott

www.turbovans.com

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 9:32 PM

Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

 

Ken, very well done, I was able to print your instructions, (a first for me) because I want to replace my Trakka one,  little bit like they do it in the aero industry, 245 000 k , stick a new one in. In the Tristar it lasted 325 000 ks. And maybe I can resurrect the replaced one with new bearing and seal. Who knows, but would be good.

Have you thought about changing over the hydr. Lifters ?  $190 for a set. You can do it without touching the heads but it would involve 8 adjustable push rod tubes.

Took my Tristar for a pink recently and the Mike guy said that the brakes  ( 4 x Audi with original booster) will not pass the test next year ! It is the loss of engine performance (compression) and hence the loss of boost at 390 000 ks....We all are getting on (old) together with those beloved cars of ours... Really a bit sad.

Hartis

 

All,
Working on this as time permits ... each individual step a first time challenge, often the wrong methodology chosen and ending up going around and around in circles ad infinitum.
 
Good news though. Finally late yesterday, I figured it out! A moment of rare brilliance! So now the old WP is removed! Big challenge, that big step taken  ... at last!
 
So here is a list of things to NOT DO in any attempt at removing the old WP from its 3 x mounting studs. Scenario is, it is being obstructed due to the interfering presence of the RHS horizontal coolant pipe, which is very much locked in there as well: ....
 
DO NOT wholly nor partly remove the main drive pulley. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT mess AT ALL with the straight rubber hose joining the 2 metal pipe sections of the aformentioned interfering coolant pipe NOR mess with its 2 x screw clips. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT remove the RH end flange of that same coolant pipe from its connection to the RHS cylinders. DO NOT TOUCH!
DO NOT just "fiddle" nor just "juggle" the interfering coolant pipe to attemp to release the WP. Just won't happen!
 
DO use a small pinch (lever) bar that fits the adjacent confined available space and bearing in mind at all times you need to keep that bar out of the space that the WP needs for it to move rearwards to free it from the studs. To that end, you must use that pinch bar and LEVER THE CRAP OUT OF THE LH END OF THAT INTERFERING PIPE  .... REARWARDS!
 
The reward is .... you will achieve the requisite clearance space to enable the WP to dismount off the mounting studs and voila .... it comes free!! No damage done.
 
I only wish someone had said this to me earlier in these strongest of terms ... would have saved me a whole lot of grief, energy and wasted time.
 
Still the saga continues. Next is the removal of the OC and accessories.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 
 

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 19:00:41 -0800
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

hi Ken,

re

Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant.

I'm sure that's great stuff., and your threaded fasteners going back in will love it.

as you say, nice opportunity to get to the high rpm oil pressure switch buried in there too .

Scott

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 5:48 PM

Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

 

All,
 
As a precursor, I was keen to find out if I could "shift" the allen bolts before I launch fully into this R&R project. Took quite a while to experiment methodology/tools on each bolt. I must say, treating each allen bolt as a mini project in itself and working carefully ... did work. So I can now confirm all are freed up, ready to extract. I'm very thankful that a previous backyard mechanic hadn't stripped the allen head keyways! Haven't though yet tackled the 3 hex head fasteners of the wp housing.
 
Scott, your trick for removing the wp pulley works brilliantly. Thanks a lot. Forget tightening up the V belt and placing van in gear, that was totally not needed, nor did it work.
Also, so far anyway, I'm believing I won't need to remove any tinware at all. Using shorter tools on the LHS allen bolts worked fine. I did though have to work from underneath to get at and clean out some metal burring in the allen keyway of the bottom RHS allen bolt, probably due to some previous attempt to insert an allen key tool into the keyway without being fully dead square to the keyway. All bolts will remove best from above, it comes down to having the best fit/compact allen key tool for each type of scenario.
 
A query on preparing all the bolts for re-installing in this project. After a proper power clean of the bolts, I'm thinking of using a product I just so happen to already have a spray pack of in the garage and it seems to me to be suitable .... Loctite Moly Dry Film Lubricant. The datasheet is here: http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/MOLYDFL-EN.PDF . Amongst other things mentioned on the cans printed label but not so clearly stated on the datasheet is ...
"*Aerospace or around the plant - use on threaded fasteners, bearing surfaces, slides, guides, pins, conveyor chains, gasket surfaces, locks and exposed dry gears, flexible shafts".
 
So it's essentially a moly lubricant and anti-seize for temperatures even up to 400 degrees centigrade for steel and aluminium, including threaded bolts. Seems ok?
 
Looking at this project, I can see it will be a very good opportunity to get at an R&R the oil sensor switch which is very much adjacent but usually very hard to see, let alone get at.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
 

16

I concur with Scott.  I have one lifter that goes ticky, particularly after periods of inactivity.  A dose of lifter de-sticker and a few long drives always frees it.

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Sent: 11 December 2010 09:00
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] R&R Water pump

I all cases of noisy hydruclic lifters (assuming that'st the issue ) on waterboxer vanagons I have been able to treat them w ith 'hydrualic lifter cleaner' oil addtive.  It's taken a *long* time to get some to be quiet again ....like months of regular operation even .

  On vans that have sat a long time, or had noisy lifters for a long time..it has taken a lot of regular mainly daily operation with cleaner addive to get them to be quiet again ..but eventually they always do get quiet again.

  Operating the engine for short peroids, like to back the van out of a garage say ..will contribute to lifters being noisy.

 The adjustable push rod tubes can leak oil , so I don't conisder them desireable  to use, unless you have to.

Scott

www.turbovans.com