Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [9 Attachments]

1
Richard, thank you so much for keeping a photo log of all your findings and most of all keeping your Syncro friends in the loop. Can't wait to visit and have a look to get inspired again. I am busy planning my Alusingen (original) canopy built for my
DOKA , a mayor challenge at my vintage but we have to keep on doing what we love...
Hart



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date:08/09/2016 12:48 AM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [9 Attachments]

 

Well there you go!! It all looks OK in there despite I do the odd creek crossing/mud wading. Does the grommet incorporate a drain tube of some sort? I will make my own unless they are available new?


Progress is still slow but getting there. Just a few pics. Cleaned up and covered the original earth leads, and will double up on each (two leads on the GB, one to each head).Also doubling up on the cable from the alternator to the starter.

Going to trial some rubber panels and see if they help keep dirt/mud/sand out

A couple of the nut serts at the back holding the muffler cover had come loose, so have replaced them,

Was interesting to see the kinks in the fuel filler, also getting a new hose.

Photo of the failed grommet in the tank breather/roll over valve. Seemed odd all the other rubber and hoses are in good condition. Even the failed grommet is fine externally, only the inside fell to pieces.

Currently working on fitting the rear heater and decoupler

Richard





---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gregespo73@...> wrote :

There is a grommet for the bottom and sealant should be applied to the flange. Gregor 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 7 Sep 2016, at 12:21 AM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Was looking at the engine today, I notice the bell housing has a breather at the top, but it is also open at the bottom. Is that correct, or should the syncro be sealed at the bottom?

Richard

2

Thanks Hart! Sounds like a great project and a nice addition to the Tristar, they do look good.

I hope the project goes well.

As much as it's a love job to keep them going, I do find myself questioning why!

Richard :)



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <hartis@...> wrote :

Richard, thank you so much for keeping a photo log of all your findings and most of all keeping your Syncro friends in the loop. Can't wait to visit and have a look to get inspired again. I am busy planning my Alusingen (original) canopy built for my
DOKA , a mayor challenge at my vintage but we have to keep on doing what we love...
Hart



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


-------- Original message --------
From: "cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Date:08/09/2016 12:48 AM (GMT+10:00)
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [9 Attachments]

 

Well there you go!! It all looks OK in there despite I do the odd creek crossing/mud wading. Does the grommet incorporate a drain tube of some sort? I will make my own unless they are available new?


Progress is still slow but getting there. Just a few pics. Cleaned up and covered the original earth leads, and will double up on each (two leads on the GB, one to each head).Also doubling up on the cable from the alternator to the starter.

Going to trial some rubber panels and see if they help keep dirt/mud/sand out

A couple of the nut serts at the back holding the muffler cover had come loose, so have replaced them,

Was interesting to see the kinks in the fuel filler, also getting a new hose.

Photo of the failed grommet in the tank breather/roll over valve. Seemed odd all the other rubber and hoses are in good condition. Even the failed grommet is fine externally, only the inside fell to pieces.

Currently working on fitting the rear heater and decoupler

Richard





---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <gregespo73@...> wrote :

There is a grommet for the bottom and sealant should be applied to the flange. Gregor 

Sent from Greg's iPhone

On 7 Sep 2016, at 12:21 AM, cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Was looking at the engine today, I notice the bell housing has a breather at the top, but it is also open at the bottom. Is that correct, or should the syncro be sealed at the bottom?

Richard

3

Hi all, just some random photo's

Oil turn up, cost more than expected, ~$60/L (with delivery)

Ended up getting a new charcoal canister from Bus Depot. Is branded VW/Audi, has same part number as original, only the vent outlet is different. which I guess you could just leave open as is. I will modify this to run a hose to it.

The big different however is the new one (looks Chinese made) is less than 1/2 the weight of the original. I think I will still open the original up and see if I can re-build it and put it back in later.


4

Have decided while the GB is out and oil drained (to fit decoupler and fresh oil), will put a new input shaft seal in (not leaking, but seals are cheap), arm for the throw out bearing all cleaned up fine, bushes not work, so just new grease and back in it goes. I got a new starter bush, but will check wear before deciding if I will replace it or not. (get starter motor back tomorrow)

New filler hose (and vent) going in

Modified the exhaust support bracket (under bell housing) to make it easier to get at and remove

This is the worse of the two coolant hoses. No splits, so will run as is for now and fit SS ones another time.

Also made a little tool (two M10 nuts) to help access the fill and drain plugs on the GB. Not sure if the plug will come out with the bash plate in place, but if not, with this will be a lot less cutting on the bash plate to make room

Richard

5

I think I have mostly figured the rear heater install. On the 2WD the heater sits in the middle of the rear seat. But with the Syncro the fuel tank sits hard against floor, so the hoses cannot run where they do on the 2WD. I think I can get it all to work sitting to the RHS under the seat.

Pic 2197 is where the heater sits on a 2WD, the two rings on the left of the pic is where the hoses would run through on a 2WD. Pic 2194 shows an extra bit of bracing that the tank sits hard against, so the hoses cannot go there. Looks like I can run the hoses to the right ((just above chassis rail), and inside the bus pic 2198, 2199.

I am also looking to fit an electric solenoid control, so can turn it on/off from the dash.


Anyway, I have a question is anyone can help with a couple of pictures. Just to make sure I have room for the hoses, could some one send a picture 2193 (looking in over right rear tire), so I can see the clearance around the tank there?

Not sure if it's possible, but one looking up from underneath there also (essentially at front of GB, just inside of the RH swing arm), so I can see the room there also.


I should have room, but not easy to just throw the tank up and have a look. I also don't want to instal it all then find it fouls with the tank


Thanks

Richard

6
Hi Richard,

I am guessing you have seen this??  Seems a lot for a couple of pieces of SS pipe with a few kinks in it,  I am trying to figure a way to make my own;





From: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 13 September 2016, 23:41
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [6 Attachments]

 
Have decided while the GB is out and oil drained (to fit decoupler and fresh oil), will put a new input shaft seal in (not leaking, but seals are cheap), arm for the throw out bearing all cleaned up fine, bushes not work, so just new grease and back in it goes. I got a new starter bush, but will check wear before deciding if I will replace it or not. (get starter motor back tomorrow)
New filler hose (and vent) going in
Modified the exhaust support bracket (under bell housing) to make it easier to get at and remove
This is the worse of the two coolant hoses. No splits, so will run as is for now and fit SS ones another time.
Also made a little tool (two M10 nuts) to help access the fill and drain plugs on the GB. Not sure if the plug will come out with the bash plate in place, but if not, with this will be a lot less cutting on the bash plate to make room
Richard


7
Richard,

Gerry has the rear cabin heater in his caravelle syncro.

He may be able to show you where it all goes by his van rear seat area?

I dont have one in either of my caravelles (syncro and 2wd) so I am no help.

Sorry to dob you in Gerry.

Cheers,

Skot

On 13/09/2016 11:53 PM, cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

I think I have mostly figured the rear heater install. On the 2WD the heater sits in the middle of the rear seat. But with the Syncro the fuel tank sits hard against floor, so the hoses cannot run where they do on the 2WD. I think I can get it all to work sitting to the RHS under the seat.

Pic 2197 is where the heater sits on a 2WD, the two rings on the left of the pic is where the hoses would run through on a 2WD. Pic 2194 shows an extra bit of bracing that the tank sits hard against, so the hoses cannot go there. Looks like I can run the hoses to the right ((just above chassis rail), and inside the bus pic 2198, 2199.

I am also looking to fit an electric solenoid control, so can turn it on/off from the dash.


Anyway, I have a question is anyone can help with a couple of pictures. Just to make sure I have room for the hoses, could some one send a picture 2193 (looking in over right rear tire), so I can see the clearance around the tank there?

Not sure if it's possible, but one looking up from underneath there also (essentially at front of GB, just inside of the RH swing arm), so I can see the room there also.


I should have room, but not easy to just throw the tank up and have a look. I also don't want to instal it all then find it fouls with the tank


Thanks

Richard


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
8
Hi Scott and Richard, I took my heater out a few years ago. I only remember it mounted on the floor of the passenger side under the rear seat. 
9

Hey, cool Gerald, I must have forgotten the heater came from you Syncro (just assumed it was from your 2WD). Even a picture of where the heater mounted/hoses went through the floor would give me a guide.

Just from my ponderings, it would be more work to fit on the LHS or middle of the bus than mounting to the RHS. One option is to run the hoses down through the floor for a Syncro, but I have a lot of extra parts there for the long range fuel tank (fuel pump, filter, hoses etc) on one side and the AC hoses on the other I also need to clear.


It's probably more the room around the tank I need to see (installed pictures), it's just not simple to throw the tank back in there to measure clearance, so am taking a punt at the moment.


Taking a long week end off work, so hope to get most of this sorted over the next 4 days (fingers crossed!)

Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <geraldandrobyn@...> wrote :

Hi Scott and Richard, I took my heater out a few years ago. I only remember it mounted on the floor of the passenger side under the rear seat. 
10

Much appreciated Neil

I had seen this before, it has been listed for a while (and on gumtree also??), not sure what it is, but don't get a good feeling from his add. Price is also higher than importing from USA!!

I do like that they have the rolled ends to stop the hose pulling off though.


I have not looked into it, but my brother took his original pipes to a muffler place and has SS ones bent up to the sample. This was 15-20 years ago and price then was quite cheep. He made them in one piece (for a 2WD single cab) and were very difficult to install, so definitely better in two pieces. Probably still an option if some one put the effort in.


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <jackthebearau@...> wrote :

Hi Richard,

I am guessing you have seen this??  Seems a lot for a couple of pieces of SS pipe with a few kinks in it,  I am trying to figure a way to make my own;





From: "cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 13 September 2016, 23:41
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [6 Attachments]

 
Have decided while the GB is out and oil drained (to fit decoupler and fresh oil), will put a new input shaft seal in (not leaking, but seals are cheap), arm for the throw out bearing all cleaned up fine, bushes not work, so just new grease and back in it goes. I got a new starter bush, but will check wear before deciding if I will replace it or not. (get starter motor back tomorrow)
New filler hose (and vent) going in
Modified the exhaust support bracket (under bell housing) to make it easier to get at and remove
This is the worse of the two coolant hoses. No splits, so will run as is for now and fit SS ones another time.
Also made a little tool (two M10 nuts) to help access the fill and drain plugs on the GB. Not sure if the plug will come out with the bash plate in place, but if not, with this will be a lot less cutting on the bash plate to make room
Richard


11
If you rang the guy you might get a better price & would be supporting an Australian business . Nick

Sent from my iPhone

On 14 Sep 2016, at 2:55 pm, "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Much appreciated Neil

I had seen this before, it has been listed for a while (and on gumtree also??), not sure what it is, but don't get a good feeling from his add. Price is also higher than importing from USA!!

I do like that they have the rolled ends to stop the hose pulling off though.


I have not looked into it, but my brother took his original pipes to a muffler place and has SS ones bent up to the sample. This was 15-20 years ago and price then was quite cheep. He made them in one piece (for a 2WD single cab) and were very difficult to install, so definitely better in two pieces. Probably still an option if some one put the effort in.


Richard



---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <jackthebearau@...> wrote :

Hi Richard,

I am guessing you have seen this??  Seems a lot for a couple of pieces of SS pipe with a few kinks in it,  I am trying to figure a way to make my own;





From: "cathrich1@... [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 13 September 2016, 23:41
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal [6 Attachments]

 
Have decided while the GB is out and oil drained (to fit decoupler and fresh oil), will put a new input shaft seal in (not leaking, but seals are cheap), arm for the throw out bearing all cleaned up fine, bushes not work, so just new grease and back in it goes. I got a new starter bush, but will check wear before deciding if I will replace it or not. (get starter motor back tomorrow)
New filler hose (and vent) going in
Modified the exhaust support bracket (under bell housing) to make it easier to get at and remove
This is the worse of the two coolant hoses. No splits, so will run as is for now and fit SS ones another time.
Also made a little tool (two M10 nuts) to help access the fill and drain plugs on the GB. Not sure if the plug will come out with the bash plate in place, but if not, with this will be a lot less cutting on the bash plate to make room
Richard


12
Hi Richard,

My 2 cts on how my heater hoses come in from the back.
 
Tom


From: "cathrich1@yahoo.com.au [Syncro_T3_Australia]" <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 14 September 2016, 14:48
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Fuel tank removal

 
Hey, cool Gerald, I must have forgotten the heater came from you Syncro (just assumed it was from your 2WD). Even a picture of where the heater mounted/hoses went through the floor would give me a guide.
Just from my ponderings, it would be more work to fit on the LHS or middle of the bus than mounting to the RHS. One option is to run the hoses down through the floor for a Syncro, but I have a lot of extra parts there for the long range fuel tank (fuel pump, filter, hoses etc) on one side and the AC hoses on the other I also need to clear.

It's probably more the room around the tank I need to see (installed pictures), it's just not simple to throw the tank back in there to measure clearance, so am taking a punt at the moment.

Taking a long week end off work, so hope to get most of this sorted over the next 4 days (fingers crossed!)
Richard


---In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, <geraldandrobyn@...> wrote :

Hi Scott and Richard, I took my heater out a few years ago. I only remember it mounted on the floor of the passenger side under the rear seat. 


13

That's perfect, thanks Tom!

Never realised so many Syncro's had the rear heaters! I guess as mine was delivered to NT it was not really required!

Richard