RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

1
Theo,
At the same time I recently R&Rd the water pump, I also R&Rd the oil cooler, oil seal and set of 4 mini oil cooler hoses. The pulled oil cooler was stamped 1989, so I'm thinking what you're now thinking ... probably it is the original oil cooler, the same year my van was built. Attempting to empty the oil cooler oil gallery produced a considerable volume of slow moving very black thick sludge. This left me wondering how the heck could this oil cooler have worked in that state and how many other syncros have their original or elderly oil cooler still in place and doing a lousy job of cooling the engine oil? It also suggests that it's all very well doing regular oil and oil filter changes, but my experience with this now brings into question whether or not that procedure properly drains the cooler oil gallery! Perhaps one should annually pull the oil cooler for inspection and draining/flushing, which is quite doable, something more than likely overlooked. So yes, happy to see you replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler seal, I also recommend you R&R the 4 mini hoses while you have the opportunity. Before you remove those mini hoses and pipes, assuming it's your first time, be sure to take a few photos of them in position as a reinstall reference, it's easy to forget which mini hoses go on which oil cooler pipe and which way round do they fit and face and which direction do the pipes run to re-connect properly. Getting it even a bit wrong can put unnecessary contortion on one or more of the mini hoses, so go carefully on their correct alignments during the re-install. 

Concerning your leaking oil pump, I've been experiencing what seems to be a small seepage of what feels like oil, down low to the left of where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine case. It's not coming from the dipstick tube entry point. So I'm wondering if this indication is the start of a leaking oil pump also. I'm suspecting this seepage is being picked up by the alternator pulley fan and flicked up onto the underside of the engine bay cover. Are you experiencing anything similar to this or perhaps worse? My syncro has done 203000 so I'd expect my oil pump and seal is also original. Please document your procedure ... I may need it sooner than later! Any more thoughts please? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 07:40:51 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo


At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:

 

Theo,

Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?

Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?

I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>



2
Ken,
On your recent oil cooler and water pump work what gooey did you use besides the appropriate gasket and seals? I intend to use Curil K2  
Removing the V pulley bolt wasn't all that difficult, a motoring friend of mine told me; "put it in fourth gear and pull up the hand brake it can't go anywhere". Hurrah it worked.
Cheers, Theo



At 12:17 PM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,
At the same time I recently R&Rd the water pump, I also R&Rd the oil cooler, oil seal and set of 4 mini oil cooler hoses. The pulled oil cooler was stamped 1989, so I'm thinking what you're now thinking ... probably it is the original oil cooler, the same year my van was built. Attempting to empty the oil cooler oil gallery produced a considerable volume of slow moving very black thick sludge. This left me wondering how the heck could this oil cooler have worked in that state and how many other syncros have their original or elderly oil cooler still in place and doing a lousy job of cooling the engine oil? It also suggests that it's all very well doing regular oil and oil filter changes, but my experience with this now brings into question whether or not that procedure properly drains the cooler oil gallery! Perhaps one should annually pull the oil cooler for inspection and draining/flushing, which is quite doable, something more than likely overlooked. So y es, happy to see you replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler seal, I also recommend you R&R the 4 mini hoses while you have the opportunity. Before you remove those mini hoses and pipes, assuming it's your first time, be sure to take a few photos of them in position as a reinstall reference, it's easy to forget which mini hoses go on which oil cooler pipe and which way round do they fit and face and which direction do the pipes run to re-connect properly. Getting it even a bit wrong can put unnecessary contortion on one or more of the mini hoses, so go carefully on their correct alignments during the re-install.

Concerning your leaking oil pump, I've been experiencing what seems to be a small seepage of what feels like oil, down low to the left of where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine case. It's not coming from the dipstick tube entry point. So I'm wondering if this indication is the start of a leaking oil pump also. I'm suspecting this seepage is being picked up by the alternator pulley fan and flicked up onto the underside of the engine bay cover. Are you experiencing anything similar to this or perhaps worse? My syncro has done 203000 so I'd expect my oil pump and seal is also original. Please document your procedure ... I may need it sooner than later! Any more thoughts please? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 07:40:51 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo


At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:

 

Theo,

Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?

Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?

I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>



3
Theo,
 
I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone, simply because it was recommended by a person who some time ago carried out and subsequently wrote up the waterpump R&R procedure. Also, unlike the other Permatex line of products that are single purpose only, the Ultra Copper is multi purpose, hence I guess the higher price. In other words, given only a bare smear is recommended with "O" rings so as to avoid excess coming loose internally, there is a lot left over in the tube, so if what you buy has multiple uses, you may get to use the remainder in differring sealing circumstances. But I'm pretty sure there are more alternatives, for example, Scott mentioned in a previous post "Toyota black silicone sealant" and "The Right Stuff" as well. Not sure about Curil K2, is it single purpose?
 
Another very interesting solution for removing the drive pulley bolt. It's so simple, one would first think it wouldn't be enough to do it. Maybe the bolt wasn't at its correct torque!!!
 
I'm curious to know what clips you use and how you place them on the short intermediary hose on that crossover metal coolant pipe behind the drive pulley. In other words, is it possible the adjusters on the two clips can be located precisely such that you can get at and release them again without first having to again remove the drive pulley AND, locate the adjusters such that they do not not impinge on the rotating water pump belt? An excellent Friday arvo puzzle. Let me know eventually your thoughts and conclusions please. TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 22:05:47 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
On your recent oil cooler and water pump work what gooey did you use besides the appropriate gasket and seals? I intend to use Curil K2  
Removing the V pulley bolt wasn't all that difficult, a motoring friend of mine told me; "put it in fourth gear and pull up the hand brake it can't go anywhere". Hurrah it worked.
Cheers, Theo



At 12:17 PM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,
At the same time I recently R&Rd the water pump, I also R&Rd the oil cooler, oil seal and set of 4 mini oil cooler hoses. The pulled oil cooler was stamped 1989, so I'm thinking what you're now thinking ... probably it is the original oil cooler, the same year my van was built. Attempting to empty the oil cooler oil gallery produced a considerable volume of slow moving very black thick sludge. This left me wondering how the heck could this oil cooler have worked in that state and how many other syncros have their original or elderly oil cooler still in place and doing a lousy job of cooling the engine oil? It also suggests that it's all very well doing regular oil and oil filter changes, but my experience with this now brings into question whether or not that procedure properly drains the cooler oil gallery! Perhaps one should annually pull the oil cooler for inspection and draining/flushing, which is quite doable, something more than likely overlooked. So y es, happy to see you replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler seal, I also recommend you R&R the 4 mini hoses while you have the opportunity. Before you remove those mini hoses and pipes, assuming it's your first time, be sure to take a few photos of them in position as a reinstall reference, it's easy to forget which mini hoses go on which oil cooler pipe and which way round do they fit and face and which direction do the pipes run to re-connect properly. Getting it even a bit wrong can put unnecessary contortion on one or more of the mini hoses, so go carefully on their correct alignments during the re-install.

Concerning your leaking oil pump, I've been experiencing what seems to be a small seepage of what feels like oil, down low to the left of where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine case. It's not coming from the dipstick tube entry point. So I'm wondering if this indication is the start of a leaking oil pump also. I'm suspecting this seepage is being picked up by the alternator pulley fan and flicked up onto the underside of the engine bay cover. Are you experiencing anything similar to this or perhaps worse? My syncro has done 203000 so I'd expect my oil pump and seal is also original. Please document your procedure ... I may need it sooner than later! Any more thoughts please? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 07:40:51 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo


At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:

 

Theo,

Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?

Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?

I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>




4
Ken,
Burson recommended Permatex No 3 Aviation sealant,not Ultra Copper which is used mainly on exhaust system.

Description of Curil K2, the non hardening sealing compound.
For sealing against mineral oils,grease,air,water. Excellent sealing effect in the case of surfaces which are finely ground and have to withstand stresses and strains. Clean the surfaces to be sealed from fat and dirt, apply Curil K2 thinly with brush or other means and let it dry for about 5 minutes.  Temperature resistance is approx. -40C to approx. +200C.Storage temperatures approx. +20C. Keep out of the reach of children. Made in Germany

Don't know about the correct torque but it was very tight I had to use a 1mtr. pipe extension.
 
Cheers. Theo


At 09:21 AM 20/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,
 
I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone, simply because it was recommended by a person who some time ago carried out and subsequently wrote up the waterpump R&R procedure. Also, unlike the other Permatex line of products that are single purpose only, the Ultra Copper is multi purpose, hence I guess the higher price. In other words, given only a bare smear is recommended with "O" rings so as to avoid excess coming loose internally, there is a lot left over in the tube, so if what you buy has multiple uses, you may get to use the remainder in differring sealing circumstances. But I'm pretty sure there are more alternatives, for example, Scott mentioned in a previous post "Toyota black silicone sealant" and "The Right Stuff" as well. Not sure about Curil K2, is it single purpose?
 
Another very interesting solution for removing the drive pulley bolt. It's so simple, one would first think it wouldn't be enough to do it. Maybe the bolt wasn't at its correct torque!!!
 
I'm curious to know what clips you use and how you place them on the short intermediary hose on that crossover metal coolant pipe behind the drive pulley. In other words, is it possible the adjusters on the two clips can be located precisely such that you can get at and release them again without first having to again remove the drive pulley AND, locate the adjusters such that they do not not impinge on the rotating water pump belt? An excellent Friday arvo puzzle. Let me know eventually your thoughts and conclusions please. TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 22:05:47 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
On your recent oil cooler and water pump work what gooey did you use besides the appropriate gasket and seals? I intend to use Curil K2  
Removing the V pulley bolt wasn't all that difficult, a motoring friend of mine told me; "put it in fourth gear and pull up the hand brake it can't go anywhere". Hurrah it worked.
Cheers, Theo



At 12:17 PM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,
At the same time I recently R&Rd the water pump, I also R&Rd the oil cooler, oil seal and set of 4 mini oil cooler hoses. The pulled oil cooler was stamped 1989, so I'm thinking what you're now thinking ... probably it is the original oil cooler, the same year my van was built. Attempting to empty the oil cooler oil gallery produced a considerable volume of slow moving very black thick sludge. This left me wondering how the heck could this oil cooler have worked in that state and how many other syncros have their original or elderly oil cooler still in place and doing a lousy job of cooling the engine oil? It also suggests that it's all very well doing regular oil and oil filter changes, but my experience with this now brings into question whether or not that procedure properly drains the cooler oil gallery! Perhaps one should annually pull the oil cooler for inspection and draining/flushing, which is quite doable, some thing more than likely overlooked. So y es, happy to see you replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler seal, I also recommend you R&R the 4 mini hoses while you have the opportunity. Before you remove those mini hoses and pipes, assuming it's your first time, be sure to take a few photos of them in position as a reinstall reference, it's easy to forget which mini hoses go on which oil cooler pipe and which way round do they fit and face and which direction do the pipes run to re-connect properly. Getting it even a bit wrong can put unnecessary contortion on one or more of the mini hoses, so go carefully on their correct alignments during the re-install.

Concerning your leaking oil pump, I've been experiencing what seems to be a small seepage of what feels like oil, down low to the left of where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine case. It's not coming from the dipstick tube entry point. So I'm wondering if this indication is the start of a leaking oil pump also . I'm suspecting this seepage is being picked up by the alternator pulley fan and flicked up onto the underside of the engine bay cover. Are you experiencing anything similar to this or perhaps worse? My syncro has done 203000 so I'd expect my oil pump and seal is also original. Please document your procedure ... I may need it sooner than later! Any more thoughts please? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 07:40:51 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo


At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:

 
Theo,
Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?
Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?
I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.
Cheers.
Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>




5
Theo,

Thanks for that, interesting what you say. I bought mine from Bursons after explaining to them the job on hand, they confirmed the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone for  a variety of uses including as a standalone form-a-gasket or in conjunction with "O" rings, typically as with the WP. So there you go.

The Technical Data Sheet for it is here ... http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/automotive/81878.pdf

Touch wood my WP isn't yet leaking!

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 23:07:46 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
Burson recommended Permatex No 3 Aviation sealant,not Ultra Copper which is used mainly on exhaust system.

Description of Curil K2, the non hardening sealing compound.
For sealing against mineral oils,grease,air,water. Excellent sealing effect in the case of surfaces which are finely ground and have to withstand stresses and strains. Clean the surfaces to be sealed from fat and dirt, apply Curil K2 thinly with brush or other means and let it dry for about 5 minutes.  Temperature resistance is approx. -40C to approx. +200C.Storage temperatures approx. +20C. Keep out of the reach of children. Made in Germany

Don't know about the correct torque but it was very tight I had to use a 1mtr. pipe extension.
 
Cheers. Theo


At 09:21 AM 20/05/2011, you wrote:

 

Theo,
 
I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone, simply because it was recommended by a person who some time ago carried out and subsequently wrote up the waterpump R&R procedure. Also, unlike the other Permatex line of products that are single purpose only, the Ultra Copper is multi purpose, hence I guess the higher price. In other words, given only a bare smear is recommended with "O" rings so as to avoid excess coming loose internally, there is a lot left over in the tube, so if what you buy has multiple uses, you may get to use the remainder in differring sealing circumstances. But I'm pretty sure there are more alternatives, for example, Scott mentioned in a previous post "Toyota black silicone sealant" and "The Right Stuff" as well. Not sure about Curil K2, is it single purpose?
 
Another very interesting solution for removing the drive pulley bolt. It's so simple, one would first think it wouldn't be enough to do it. Maybe the bolt wasn't at its correct torque!!!
 
I'm curious to know what clips you use and how you place them on the short intermediary hose on that crossover metal coolant pipe behind the drive pulley. In other words, is it possible the adjusters on the two clips can be located precisely such that you can get at and release them again without first having to again remove the drive pulley AND, locate the adjusters such that they do not not impinge on the rotating water pump belt? An excellent Friday arvo puzzle. Let me know eventually your thoughts and conclusions please. TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 22:05:47 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
On your recent oil cooler and water pump work what gooey did you use besides the appropriate gasket and seals? I intend to use Curil K2  
Removing the V pulley bolt wasn't all that difficult, a motoring friend of mine told me; "put it in fourth gear and pull up the hand brake it can't go anywhere". Hurrah it worked.
Cheers, Theo



At 12:17 PM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,
At the same time I recently R&Rd the water pump, I also R&Rd the oil cooler, oil seal and set of 4 mini oil cooler hoses. The pulled oil cooler was stamped 1989, so I'm thinking what you're now thinking ... probably it is the original oil cooler, the same year my van was built. Attempting to empty the oil cooler oil gallery produced a considerable volume of slow moving very black thick sludge. This left me wondering how the heck could this oil cooler have worked in that state and how many other syncros have their original or elderly oil cooler still in place and doing a lousy job of cooling the engine oil? It also suggests that it's all very well doing regular oil and oil filter changes, but my experience with this now brings into question whether or not that procedure properly drains the cooler oil gallery! Perhaps one should annually pull the oil cooler for inspection and draining/flushing, which is quite doable, some thing more than likely overlooked. So y es, happy to see you replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler seal, I also recommend you R&R the 4 mini hoses while you have the opportunity. Before you remove those mini hoses and pipes, assuming it's your first time, be sure to take a few photos of them in position as a reinstall reference, it's easy to forget which mini hoses go on which oil cooler pipe and which way round do they fit and face and which direction do the pipes run to re-connect properly. Getting it even a bit wrong can put unnecessary contortion on one or more of the mini hoses, so go carefully on their correct alignments during the re-install.

Concerning your leaking oil pump, I've been experiencing what seems to be a small seepage of what feels like oil, down low to the left of where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine case. It's not coming from the dipstick tube entry point. So I'm wondering if this indication is the start of a leaking oil pump also . I'm suspecting this seepage is being picked up by the alternator pulley fan and flicked up onto the underside of the engine bay cover. Are you experiencing anything similar to this or perhaps worse? My syncro has done 203000 so I'd expect my oil pump and seal is also original. Please document your procedure ... I may need it sooner than later! Any more thoughts please? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 07:40:51 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo


At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:

 
Theo,
Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?
Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?
I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.
Cheers.
Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>





6
Ken,

Now I wonder if I have used the right stuff. Time will tell, but I don't want to do it again.On the crossover pipe/hose #45 I used new VW spring clips. It is a tight fit even without the pulley, but it is clear off the belt. To adjust I might have to move the alternator stay out of the way. One good thing of removing the muffler was, I found one of he retainers breaking up. Save me a lot of grieve further down the track with the muffler falling off.

Cheers, Theo


At 12:40 AM 21/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,

Thanks for that, interesting what you say. I bought mine from Bursons after explaining to them the job on hand, they confirmed the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone for  a variety of uses including as a standalone form-a-gasket or in conjunction with "O" rings, typically as with the WP. So there you go.

The Technical Data Sheet for it is here ... http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/automotive/81878.pdf

Touch wood my WP isn't yet leaking!

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 23:07:46 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
Burson recommended Permatex No 3 Aviation sealant,not Ultra Copper which is used mainly on exhaust system.

Description of Curil K2, the non hardening sealing compound.
For sealing against mineral oils,grease,air,water. Excellent sealing effect in the case of surfaces which are finely ground and have to withstand stresses and strains. Clean the surfaces to be sealed from fat and dirt, apply Curil K2 thinly with brush or other means and let it dry for about 5 minutes.  Temperature resistance is approx. -40C to approx. +200C.Storage temperatures approx. +20C. Keep out of the reach of children. Made in Germany

Don't know about the correct torque but it was very tight I had to use a 1mtr. pipe extension.
 
Cheers. Theo


At 09:21 AM 20/05/2011, you wrote:

 

Theo,
 
I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone, simply because it was recommended by a person who some time ago carried out and subsequently wrote up the waterpump R&R procedure. Also, unlike the other Permatex line of products that are single purpose only, the Ultra Copper is multi purpose, hence I guess the higher price. In other words, given only a bare smear is recommended with "O" rings so as to avoid excess coming loose internally, there is a lot left over in the tube, so if what you buy has multiple uses, you may get to use the remainder in differring sealing circumstances. But I'm pretty sure there are more alternatives, for example, Scott mentioned in a previous post "Toyota black silicone sealant" and "The Right Stuff" as well. Not sure about Curil K2, is it single purpose?
 
Another very interesting solution for removing the drive pulley bolt. It's so simple, one would first think it wouldn't be enough to do it. Maybe the bolt wasn't at its correct torque!!!
 
I'm curious to know what clips you use and how you place them on the short intermediary hose on that crossover metal coolant pipe behind the drive pulley. In other words, is it possible the adjusters on the two clips can be located precisely such that you can get at and release them again without first having to again remove the drive pulley AND, locate the adjusters such that they do not not impinge on the rotating water pump belt? An excellent Friday arvo puzzle. Let me know eventually your thoughts and conclusions please. TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 22:05:47 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
On your recent oil cooler and water pump work what gooey did you use besides the appropriate gasket and seals? I intend to use Curil K2  
Removing the V pulley bolt wasn't all that difficult, a motoring friend of mine told me; "put it in fourth gear and pull up the hand brake it can't go anywhere". Hurrah it worked.
Cheers, Theo



At 12:17 PM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
 
Theo,
At the same time I recently R&Rd the water pump, I also R&Rd the oil cooler, oil seal and set of 4 mini oil cooler hoses. The pulled oil cooler was stamped 1989, so I'm thinking what you're now thinking ... probably it is the original oil cooler, the same year my van was built. Attempting to empty the oil cooler oil gallery produced a considerable volume of slow moving very black thick sludge. This left me wondering how the heck could this oil cooler have worked in that state and how many other syncros have their original or elderly oil cooler still in place and doing a lousy job of cooling the engine oil? It also suggests that it's all very well doing regular oil and oil filter changes, but my experience with this now brings into question whether or not that procedure properly drains the cooler oil gallery! Perhaps one should annually pull the oil cooler for inspection and draining/flushing, which is quite doable, some thing more than likely overlooked. So y es, happy to see you replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler seal, I also recommend you R&R the 4 mini hoses while you have the opportunity. Before you remove those mini hoses and pipes, assuming it's your first time, be sure to take a few photos of them in position as a reinstall reference, it's easy to forget which mini hoses go on which oil cooler pipe and which way round do they fit and face and which direction do the pipes run to re-connect properly. Getting it even a bit wrong can put unnecessary contortion on one or more of the mini hoses, so go carefully on their correct alignments during the re-install.
Concerning your leaking oil pump, I've been experiencing what seems to be a small seepage of what feels like oil, down low to the left of where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine case. It's not coming from the dipstick tube entry point. So I'm wondering if this indication is the start of a leaking oil pump also . I'm suspecting this seepage is being picked up by the alternator pulley fan and flicked up onto the underside of the engine bay cover. Are you experiencing anything similar to this or perhaps worse? My syncro has done 203000 so I'd expect my oil pump and seal is also original. Please document your procedure ... I may need it sooner than later! Any more thoughts please? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 07:40:51 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo

At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:

 
Theo,
Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?
Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?
I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.
Cheers.
Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>





7

Theo,
You mean the muffler strap was failing ... breaking up. Bad omen for me then eh .... thanks a lot! ... NOT!  haha
Thanks for the heads up ... I'll look at the alternator stay/bracket removal re access feasability to adjust those hose clips ... it's a real challenge that crossover hose eh.
Cheers.
Ken  
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 22:26:10 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,

Now I wonder if I have used the right stuff. Time will tell, but I don't want to do it again.On the crossover pipe/hose #45 I used new VW spring clips. It is a tight fit even without the pulley, but it is clear off the belt. To adjust I might have to move the alternator stay out of the way. One good thing of removing the muffler was, I found one of he retainers breaking up. Save me a lot of grieve further down the track with the muffler falling off.

Cheers, Theo


At 12:40 AM 21/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,

Thanks for that, interesting what you say. I bought mine from Bursons after explaining to them the job on hand, they confirmed the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone for  a variety of uses including as a standalone form-a-gasket or in conjunction with "O" rings, typically as with the WP. So there you go.

The Technical Data Sheet for it is here ... http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/automotive/81878.pdf

Touch wood my WP isn't yet leaking!

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 23:07:46 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
Burson recommended Permatex No 3 Aviation sealant,not Ultra Copper which is used mainly on exhaust system.

Description of Curil K2, the non hardening sealing compound.
For sealing against mineral oils,grease,air,water. Excellent sealing effect in the case of surfaces which are finely ground and have to withstand stresses and strains. Clean the surfaces to be sealed from fat and dirt, apply Curil K2 thinly with brush or other means and let it dry for about 5 minutes.  Temperature resistance is approx. -40C to approx. +200C.Storage temperatures approx. +20C. Keep out of the reach of children. Made in Germany

Don't know about the correct torque but it was very tight I had to use a 1mtr. pipe extension.
 
Cheers. Theo


At 09:21 AM 20/05/2011, you wrote:

 

Theo,
 
I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone, simply because it was recommended by a person who some time ago carried out and subsequently wrote up the waterpump R&R procedure. Also, unlike the other Permatex line of products that are single purpose only, the Ultra Copper is multi purpose, hence I guess the higher price. In other words, given only a bare smear is recommended with "O" rings so as to avoid excess coming loose internally, there is a lot left over in the tube, so if what you buy has multiple uses, you may get to use the remainder in differring sealing circumstances. But I'm pretty sure there are more alternatives, for example, Scott mentioned in a previous post "Toyota black silicone sealant" and "The Right Stuff" as well. Not sure about Curil K2, is it single purpose?
 
Another very interesting solution for removing the drive pulley bolt. It's so simple, one would first think it wouldn't be enough to do it. Maybe the bolt wasn't at its correct torque!!!
 
I'm curious to know what clips you use and how you place them on the short intermediary hose on that crossover metal coolant pipe behind the drive pulley. In other words, is it possible the adjusters on the two clips can be located precisely such that you can get at and release them again without first having to again remove the drive pulley AND, locate the adjusters such that they do not not impinge on the rotating water pump belt? An excellent Friday arvo puzzle. Let me know eventually your thoughts and conclusions please. TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken

 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 22:05:47 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
On your recent oil cooler and water pump work what gooey did you use besides the appropriate gasket and seals? I intend to use Curil K2  
Removing the V pulley bolt wasn't all that difficult, a motoring friend of mine told me; "put it in fourth gear and pull up the hand brake it can't go anywhere". Hurrah it worked.
Cheers, Theo



At 12:17 PM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
 
Theo,
At the same time I recently R&Rd the water pump, I also R&Rd the oil cooler, oil seal and set of 4 mini oil cooler hoses. The pulled oil cooler was stamped 1989, so I'm thinking what you're now thinking ... probably it is the original oil cooler, the same year my van was built. Attempting to empty the oil cooler oil gallery produced a considerable volume of slow moving very black thick sludge. This left me wondering how the heck could this oil cooler have worked in that state and how many other syncros have their original or elderly oil cooler still in place and doing a lousy job of cooling the engine oil? It also suggests that it's all very well doing regular oil and oil filter changes, but my experience with this now brings into question whether or not that procedure properly drains the cooler oil gallery! Perhaps one should annually pull the oil cooler for inspection and draining/flushing, which is quite doable, some thing more than likely overlooked. So y es, happy to see you replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler seal, I also recommend you R&R the 4 mini hoses while you have the opportunity. Before you remove those mini hoses and pipes, assuming it's your first time, be sure to take a few photos of them in position as a reinstall reference, it's easy to forget which mini hoses go on which oil cooler pipe and which way round do they fit and face and which direction do the pipes run to re-connect properly. Getting it even a bit wrong can put unnecessary contortion on one or more of the mini hoses, so go carefully on their correct alignments during the re-install.
Concerning your leaking oil pump, I've been experiencing what seems to be a small seepage of what feels like oil, down low to the left of where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine case. It's not coming from the dipstick tube entry point. So I'm wondering if this indication is the start of a leaking oil pump also . I'm suspecting this seepage is being picked up by the alternator pulley fan and flicked up onto the underside of the engine bay cover. Are you experiencing anything similar to this or perhaps worse? My syncro has done 203000 so I'd expect my oil pump and seal is also original. Please document your procedure ... I may need it sooner than later! Any more thoughts please? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken

To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 07:40:51 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo

At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:

 
Theo,
Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?
Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?
I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.
Cheers.
Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>






8
Ken,
Not the strap,the retainer itself where the strap hooks in. Been repaired before might have to get a new one.
Cheers.Theo

At 11:17 PM 23/05/2011, you wrote:
 


Theo,
You mean the muffler strap was failing ... breaking up. Bad omen for me then eh .... thanks a lot! ... NOT!  haha
Thanks for the heads up ... I'll look at the alternator stay/bracket removal re access feasability to adjust those hose clips ... it's a real challenge that crossover hose eh.
Cheers.
Ken 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 22:26:10 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,

Now I wonder if I have used the right stuff. Time will tell, but I don't want to do it again.On the crossover pipe/hose #45 I used new VW spring clips. It is a tight fit even without the pulley, but it is clear off the belt. To adjust I might have to move the alternator stay out of the way. One good thing of removing the muffler was, I found one of he retainers breaking up. Save me a lot of grieve further down the track with the muffler falling off.

Cheers, Theo


At 12:40 AM 21/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,

Thanks for that, interesting what you say. I bought mine from Bursons after explaining to them the job on hand, they confirmed the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone for  a variety of uses including as a standalone form-a-gasket or in conjunction with "O" rings, typically as with the WP. So there you go.

The Technical Data Sheet for it is here ... http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/automotive/81878.pdf

Touch wood my WP isn't yet leaking!

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Fri, 20 May 2011 23:07:46 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Ken,
Burson recommended Permatex No 3 Aviation sealant,not Ultra Copper which is used mainly on exhaust system.

Description of Curil K2, the non hardening sealing compound.
For sealing against mineral oils,grease,air,water. Excellent sealing effect in the case of surfaces which are finely ground and have to withstand stresses and strains. Clean the surfaces to be sealed from fat and dirt, apply Curil K2 thinly with brush or other means and let it dry for about 5 minutes.  Temperature resistance is approx. -40C to approx. +200C.Storage temperatures approx. +20C. Keep out of the reach of children. Made in Germany

Don't know about the correct torque but it was very tight I had to use a 1mtr. pipe extension.
 
Cheers. Theo


At 09:21 AM 20/05/2011, you wrote:

 
Theo,
 
I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone, simply because it was recommended by a person who some time ago carried out and subsequently wrote up the waterpump R&R procedure. Also, unlike the other Permatex line of products that are single purpose only, the Ultra Copper is multi purpose, hence I guess the higher price. In other words, given only a bare smear is recommended with "O" rings so as to avoid excess coming loose internally, there is a lot left over in the tube, so if what you buy has multiple uses, you may get to use the remainder in differring sealing circumstances. But I'm pretty sure there are more alternatives, for example, Scott mentioned in a previous post "Toyota black silicone sealant" and "The Right Stuff" as well. Not sure about Curil K2, is it single purpose?
 
Another very interesting solution for removing the drive pulley bolt. It's so simple, one would first think it wouldn't be enough to do it. Maybe the bolt wasn't at its correct torque!!!
 
I'm curious to know what clips you use and how you place them on the short intermediary hose on that crossover metal coolant pipe behind the drive pulley. In other words, is it possible the adjusters on the two clips can be located precisely such that you can get at and release them again without first having to again remove the drive pulley AND, locate the adjusters such that they do not not impinge on the rotating water pump belt? An excellent Friday arvo puzzle. Let me know eventually your thoughts and conclusions please. TIA.
 
Cheers.
 
Ken
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 22:05:47 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
Ken,
On your recent oil cooler and water pump work what gooey did you use besides the appropriate gasket and seals? I intend to use Curil K2  
Removing the V pulley bolt wasn't all that difficult, a motoring friend of mine told me; "put it in fourth gear and pull up the hand brake it can't go anywhere". Hurrah it worked.
Cheers, Theo


At 12:17 PM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
 
Theo,
At the same time I recently R&Rd the water pump, I also R&Rd the oil cooler, oil seal and set of 4 mini oil cooler hoses. The pulled oil cooler was stamped 1989, so I'm thinking what you're now thinking ... probably it is the original oil cooler, the same year my van was built. Attempting to empty the oil cooler oil gallery produced a considerable volume of slow moving very black thick sludge. This left me wondering how the heck could this oil cooler have worked in that state and how many other syncros have their original or elderly oil cooler still in place and doing a lousy job of cooling the engine oil? It also suggests that it's all very well doing regular oil and oil filter changes, but my experience with this now brings into question whether or not that procedure properly drains the cooler oil gallery! Perhaps one should annually pull the oil cooler for inspection and draining/flushing, which is quite doable, some thing more than likely overlooked. So y es, happy to see you replacing the oil cooler and oil cooler seal, I also recommend you R&R the 4 mini hoses while you have the opportunity. Before you remove those mini hoses and pipes, assuming it's your first time, be sure to take a few photos of them in position as a reinstall reference, it's easy to forget which mini hoses go on which oil cooler pipe and which way round do they fit and face and which direction do the pipes run to re-connect properly. Getting it even a bit wrong can put unnecessary contortion on one or more of the mini hoses, so go carefully on their correct alignments during the re-install.
Concerning your leaking oil pump, I've been experiencing what seems to be a small seepage of what feels like oil, down low to the left of where the oil dipstick tube enters the engine case. It's not coming from the dipstick tube entry point. So I'm wondering if this indication is the start of a leaking oil pump also . I'm suspecting this seepage is being picked up by the alternator pulley fan and flicked up onto the underside of the engine bay cover. Are you experiencing anything similar to this or perhaps worse? My syncro has done 203000 so I'd expect my oil pump and seal is also original. Please document your procedure ... I may need it sooner than later! Any more thoughts please? TIA.
Cheers.
Ken
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: teows@melbpc.org.au
Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 07:40:51 +1000
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo
At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:

 
Theo,
Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?
Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?
I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.
Cheers.
Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>