Re: Tailshaft vibrations and freeing up diff lock mechanism.

1


I've condensed into the above attachment some recent USA postings which add additional information on the cost free fix for tail shaft vibrations plus freeing up a non operating diff lock mechanism. Hope someone finds them useful but it doesn't put naughty ideas into the head of my syncro.
 
Cheers
Roger
 
 
 
 
 

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2

Roger,

 

For the benefit of members, this has been a very informative thread on the US Syncro site.  The matter of driveline vibration has had a lot of coverage over many years and previously offered solutions involved the use of laser alignment tools, which worked in some cases and not in others 

 

Warren Chapmen, who owns the Subaruvanagon site, posted the “let it settle” solution quite recently and the resulting correspondence seems to confirm that it works.

 

I would emphasise that wheel balance should always be checked before looking into further solutions.  A slightly loose half shaft will produce similar vibrations.

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Roger Bell
Sent: 14 September 2009 23:32
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Tailshaft vibrations and freeing up diff lock mechanism. [1 Attachment]

 

 



I've condensed into the above attachment some recent USA  postings which add additional information on the cost free fix for tail shaft vibrations plus freeing up a non operating diff lock mechanism. Hope someone finds them useful but it doesn't put naughty ideas into the head of my syncro.

 

Cheers

Roger

 

 

 

 

 

 

Find local businesses and services in your area with Yahoo!7 Local. Get started.

3
. A slightly loose half shaft will produce
> similar
> vibrations.
>
>
>
> Les
>

What part loose do you mean Les?

Has anyone tried grinding a flat on the front outer CV so that the wheel bearing housing can be removed with the CV attached?

(This is to clear the top of the lower ball joint)
4

Phill,

 

I was referring to the bolts that attach the CVs to the flanges.  I have seen a couple of instances of sloppy workmanship where the mating surfaces were not cleaned and the CVs just offered up to the flanges with grease and sand still on them.  The bolts backed off as a result.

 

Regarding tailshaft vibrations, I should have added that vibrations can arise from a worn universal or a floppy doughnut.  They also need to be checked.

 

Are you still having problems with dissembling the front shaft?  A heavy impact from a brass drift should break it loose (I think that Martin was saying something similar) but do you want to leave it in the hub?

 

I have never looked at the assembly but I see in ETKA that there are several front drive shafts for 14” and 16”, plus two different C clips.  Can the C clip be accessed so that the shaft can be removed and the joint and axle left in the front hub? 

 

Les

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of plander@optusnet.com.au
Sent: 15 September 2009 08:59
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tailshaft vibrations

 

 
What part loose do you mean Les?

Has anyone tried grinding a flat on the front outer CV so that the wheel bearing housing can be removed with the CV attached?

(This is to clear the top of the lower ball joint)

5
> Are you still having problems with dissembling the front shaft? A heavy
> impact from a brass drift should break it loose

Tried that. (Not really the recommended method)

I have also broken a $400 puller.



> clip be accessed so that the shaft can be removed and the joint and axle
> left in the front hub?
>

That will not help as I need to remove the outer CV.

I was wondering if I could grind into the outer CV so that I have enough clearance to drop the whole assembly far enough to clear the bottom ball joint stud. Then I could take it to a press or I could put another bearing housing in.
6
Phil, have you tried some judicious application of heat, if it is the splines that are effectively rusted/gunged in place heating up the hub might be enough to crack the joint?

Found this link that describes a way of removing the whole hub assembly which might help


Cheers
Gary



On 15/09/2009, at 11:44 AM, plander@optusnet.com.au wrote:

> Are you still having problems with dissembling the front shaft? A heavy
> impact from a brass drift should break it loose 

Tried that. (Not really the recommended method)

I have also broken a $400 puller.

> clip be accessed so that the shaft can be removed and the joint and axle
> left in the front hub? 
> 

That will not help as I need to remove the outer CV.

I was wondering if I could grind into the outer CV so that I have enough clearance to drop the whole assembly far enough to clear the bottom ball joint stud. Then I could take it to a press or I could put another bearing housing in.


7

Just thinking , Phil , wouldn’t it poss. to  take out the Bearing housing incl. Shaft, stick the assy into a press and *%!+$# (PRESS IT OUT) ? Sure it is more work , plus alignment , I would try it. Please have it ready for Mel./Nov.

 

 

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gary Cookson
Sent: Tuesday, 15 September 2009 2:15 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tailshaft vibrations

 

 

Phil, have you tried some judicious application of heat, if it is the splines that are effectively rusted/gunged in place heating up the hub might be enough to crack the joint?

 

Found this link that describes a way of removing the whole hub assembly which might help

 

 

Cheers

Gary

 

 

 

On 15/09/2009, at 11:44 AM, plander@optusnet.com.au wrote:



>

Are you still having problems with dissembling the front shaft? A heavy
> impact from a brass drift should break it loose
class=apple-converted-space> 

Tried that. (Not really the recommended method)

I have also broken a $400 puller.

> clip be accessed so that the shaft can be removed and the joint and axle
> left in the front hub? 
> 

That will not help as I need to remove the outer CV.

I was wondering if I could grind into the outer CV so that I have enough clearance to drop the whole assembly far enough to clear the bottom ball joint stud. Then I could take it to a press or I could put another bearing housing in.

 

8
> Hartmut Kiehn <hartis@live.com.au> wrote:
>
> Just thinking , Phil , wouldn't it poss. to take out the Bearing
> housing
> incl. Shaft, stick the assy into a press and *%!+$# (PRESS IT OUT) ?
> Sure it
> is more work , plus alignment , I would try it. Please have it ready for
> Mel./Nov.
>


Yes, that's what I am trying to do without success.





>
> Phil, have you tried some judicious application of heat, if it is the
> splines that are effectively rusted/gunged in place heating up the hub
> might
> be enough to crack the joint?
>


There are many warnings in the workshop manual about that. Anyhow, I see no signs of rust at all.
9
>
> Found this link that describes a way of removing the whole hub assembly
> which might help
>
>
>
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3362202
>
>

Unfortunately that link is for the early model which is completely different.
10
I noticed the dreaded vibes becoming evident the last few months, so on checking I found play in the tailshaft bush behind the rubber damper.
I knew the universal next to it was wearing out, as it had been stiff when I had the tailshaft out before, and was resigned to replacing it with the agricultural universal, as I believed the original was NLA.
I got a couple of Poly bushes from Syncro Hospital and took it to Adelaide Tailshaft Services to have them repair it. I had a call from them to tell me the genuine universal was now available for $120, as opposed to the other for about $25.
Bearing in mind Phil's advice to use OEM, I went for the genuine, and the mechanic was happier with the quality too.
All together now and all the vibes gone!
The genuine universal is available from Hardy Spicer Part No KS-A767 and I have a spare poly bush if anyone needs to go down the same path.

Bob Turnbull
11
Bob,
Thanks a lot for sharing, very useful reference for a future time ....
Cheers.
Ken
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bobturn@internode.on.net
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 10:46:42 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tailshaft vibrations

 
I noticed the dreaded vibes becoming evident the last few months, so on checking I found play in the tailshaft bush behind the rubber damper.
I knew the universal next to it was wearing out, as it had been stiff when I had the tailshaft out before, and was resigned to replacing it with the agricultural universal, as I believed the original was NLA.
I got a couple of Poly bushes from Syncro Hospital and took it to Adelaide Tailshaft Services to have them repair it. I had a call from them to tell me the genuine universal was now available for $120, as opposed to the other for about $25.
Bearing in mind Phil's advice to use OEM, I went for the genuine, and the mechanic was happier with the quality too.
All together now and all the vibes gone!
The genuine universal is available from Hardy Spicer Part No KS-A767 and I have a spare poly bush if anyone needs to go down the same path.

Bob Turnbull


12
Gday Bob Turnbull,Do you still have a spare poly bush,if so I would like to buy it from you.

From: Bob <bobturn@internode.on.net>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, October 9, 2010 9:46:42 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Tailshaft vibrations

 

I noticed the dreaded vibes becoming evident the last few months, so on checking I found play in the tailshaft bush behind the rubber damper.
I knew the universal next to it was wearing out, as it had been stiff when I had the tailshaft out before, and was resigned to replacing it with the agricultural universal, as I believed the original was NLA.
I got a couple of Poly bushes from Syncro Hospital and took it to Adelaide Tailshaft Services to have them repair it. I had a call from them to tell me the genuine universal was now available for $120, as opposed to the other for about $25.
Bearing in mind Phil's advice to use OEM, I went for the genuine, and the mechanic was happier with the quality too.
All together now and all the vibes gone!
The genuine universal is available from Hardy Spicer Part No KS-A767 and I have a spare poly bush if anyone needs to go down the same path.

Bob Turnbull


13
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ben Croft <bencroft96@...> wrote:
>
> Gday Bob Turnbull,Do you still have a spare poly bush,if so I would like to buy
> it from you.
>
>
Hi Ben,

Sure, it cost me $20, so with postage is $25 OK?

If so, send me your address and pay into my bank account :- AM & RJ Turnbull
Savings and Loans
BSB 805 023, Account No 02355442
and I will post it to you.

You may have seen it, but there was a site, I think on the Brickyard or Club 80- 90 that described how to replace the bush, if you are feeling brave,

Regards,

Bob T
14
Bob,thankyou but I recieved one in the mail today from a fellow syncrowner in WA .
From: Bob <bobturn@internode.on.net>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, October 22, 2010 1:13:12 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Tailshaft vibrations

 



--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ben Croft <bencroft96@...> wrote:
>
> Gday Bob Turnbull,Do you still have a spare poly bush,if so I would like to buy
> it from you.
>
>
Hi Ben,

Sure, it cost me $20, so with postage is $25 OK?

If so, send me your address and pay into my bank account :- AM & RJ Turnbull
Savings and Loans
BSB 805 023, Account No 02355442
and I will post it to you.

You may have seen it, but there was a site, I think on the Brickyard or Club 80- 90 that described how to replace the bush, if you are feeling brave,

Regards,

Bob T