Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

Howdy all.
I have had to replace the water pump this week - removal has been quite easy as I followed the links from last December (Ken Garrett et al).
I noticed that there is a bit of oil down there and I think it is a good idea to replace that oil pressure switch whilst the pump is out. I also noticed a water connector hose under the main V belt pulley is looking a bit nasty and feel it needs to be replaced too.
Heeding Ken's words DO NOT REMOVE MAIN PULLEY is going to be difficult as I cannot see a way to replace this hose without removing the pulley.

My Bentleys book shows that I need a special tool. I saw a thread from Eddie suggesting it isn't necessary. I wonder if anyone has a few tips on the best way to do it and what to watch out for.... any do's and don't and what to look out for. I have looked in the past messages and can't find anything on pulley removal... but maybe there already is.
If I do need the tool, where can I buy one.... Quickly

Is there anything else I should replace whilst I am at it? I saw mention of a "xmas tree"... not sure what that is?

Thanks in advance.

Stuart
Hi stuart. by special tool i guess you mean the one to stop the pulley from turning.I use a strong screwdriver inserted into a hole in the flywheel.Not how the bentleys describes the procedure but has been effective quite a few times.I would advise a quality tool as a broken bit of screwdriver in the bellhousing would be a pain.Cheers Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "stuartparry98" <stuart@...> wrote:
>
> Howdy all.
> I have had to replace the water pump this week - removal has been quite easy as I followed the links from last December (Ken Garrett et al).
> I noticed that there is a bit of oil down there and I think it is a good idea to replace that oil pressure switch whilst the pump is out. I also noticed a water connector hose under the main V belt pulley is looking a bit nasty and feel it needs to be replaced too.
> Heeding Ken's words DO NOT REMOVE MAIN PULLEY is going to be difficult as I cannot see a way to replace this hose without removing the pulley.
>
> My Bentleys book shows that I need a special tool. I saw a thread from Eddie suggesting it isn't necessary. I wonder if anyone has a few tips on the best way to do it and what to watch out for.... any do's and don't and what to look out for. I have looked in the past messages and can't find anything on pulley removal... but maybe there already is.
> If I do need the tool, where can I buy one.... Quickly
>
> Is there anything else I should replace whilst I am at it? I saw mention of a "xmas tree"... not sure what that is?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Stuart
>
I never try to remove the crankshaft pulley in with engine installed in the van .
some have, but I don't.
but I have replaced that hose on the lower cross over pipe a few times..
with pulley in place.
 it's do-able for sure.
scott
turbovans
----- Original Message -----
From: bergodaz
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011 5:32 PM
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 

Hi stuart. by special tool i guess you mean the one to stop the pulley from turning.I use a strong screwdriver inserted into a hole in the flywheel.Not how the bentleys describes the procedure but has been effective quite a few times.I would advise a quality tool as a broken bit of screwdriver in the bellhousing would be a pain.Cheers Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "stuartparry98" <stuart@...> wrote:
>
> Howdy all.
> I have had to replace the water pump this week - removal has been quite easy as I followed the links from last December (Ken Garrett et al).
> I noticed that there is a bit of oil down there and I think it is a good idea to replace that oil pressure switch whilst the pump is out. I also noticed a water connector hose under the main V belt pulley is looking a bit nasty and feel it needs to be replaced too.
> Heeding Ken's words DO NOT REMOVE MAIN PULLEY is going to be difficult as I cannot see a way to replace this hose without removing the pulley.
>
> My Bentleys book shows that I need a special tool. I saw a thread from Eddie suggesting it isn't necessary. I wonder if anyone has a few tips on the best way to do it and what to watch out for.... any do's and don't and what to look out for. I have looked in the past messages and can't find anything on pulley removal... but maybe there already is.
> If I do need the tool, where can I buy one.... Quickly
>
> Is there anything else I should replace whilst I am at it? I saw mention of a "xmas tree"... not sure what that is?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Stuart
>

Eddie,

I'm interested to understand more clearly your method of constraining the drive pulley using a screwdriver. Could you please expand somewhat on this procedure, in particular where the hole is located to insert the screwdriver and the preferred diameter of screwdriver shaft you use for this procedure. Also, does it work as well for tightening the drive pulley? Any other issues/concerns?

Someone may confirm/clarify/dissuade this procedure but it seems to me that to stop the drive pulley from turning, the special VW tool has two large circular pins at its rear-side that are inserted through the two holes in the drive pulley and depending upon whether one is loosening or tightening the drive pulley nut, then simply rotate the drive pulley until the projecting pins fully insert, enabling at least one of the pins to bind against (I think) the engine casing. Now IF that is true, the nearest I came to attempting something similar was to select the largest diameter DEEP socket that fits through one of the holes in the drive pulley, then rotate the drive pulley until the socket slips through enough to also bind against the engine casing. Adding a socket extension shaft to the socket will help hold the socket in place better whilst working to loosen the 30mm drive pulley nut. May need some more refinement. I have to say though this procedure remains unproven for me as I chickened out on carrying through with it. Someone else willing to try this or some other technique, please let us know here. TIA.

Cheers.

Ken




To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 00:32:54 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Hi stuart. by special tool i guess you mean the one to stop the pulley from turning.I use a strong screwdriver inserted into a hole in the flywheel.Not how the bentleys describes the procedure but has been effective quite a few times.I would advise a quality tool as a broken bit of screwdriver in the bellhousing would be a pain.Cheers Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "stuartparry98" <stuart@...> wrote:
>
> Howdy all.
> I have had to replace the water pump this week - removal has been quite easy as I followed the links from last December (Ken Garrett et al).
> I noticed that there is a bit of oil down there and I think it is a good idea to replace that oil pressure switch whilst the pump is out. I also noticed a water connector hose under the main V belt pulley is looking a bit nasty and feel it needs to be replaced too.
> Heeding Ken's words DO NOT REMOVE MAIN PULLEY is going to be difficult as I cannot see a way to replace this hose without removing the pulley.
>
> My Bentleys book shows that I need a special tool. I saw a thread from Eddie suggesting it isn't necessary. I wonder if anyone has a few tips on the best way to do it and what to watch out for.... any do's and don't and what to look out for. I have looked in the past messages and can't find anything on pulley removal... but maybe there already is.
> If I do need the tool, where can I buy one.... Quickly
>
> Is there anything else I should replace whilst I am at it? I saw mention of a "xmas tree"... not sure what that is?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Stuart
>


Your method sounds complicated Ken.My mechanic (vw with 40 odd years of experience) first suggested that I stop the flywheel by jambing a screwdriver between the flywheel teeth and the engine case in the hole at top left , back of engine.I did this first but couldn't get a good solid "grip" using this method so I turned the engine slowly while looking for a point where I could block it.I found a hole approx 8mm dia in the flywheel ,inserted the appropriate size screwdriver, held on to it with one hand whilst tightening or loosening the pulley bolt.Works both ways. Ive done it changing water pumps and more recently, changed my oil pump. My only concern using this method would be dropping a piece of broken screwdriver down into the bellhousing. Sounds like a "bush mechanic's method , but hey, I live in the bush and it works for me.
Cheers Eddie.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Eddie,
> I'm interested to understand more clearly your method of constraining the drive pulley using a screwdriver. Could you please expand somewhat on this procedure, in particular where the hole is located to insert the screwdriver and the preferred diameter of screwdriver shaft you use for this procedure. Also, does it work as well for tightening the drive pulley? Any other issues/concerns?
> Someone may confirm/clarify/dissuade this procedure but it seems to me that to stop the drive pulley from turning, the special VW tool has two large circular pins at its rear-side that are inserted through the two holes in the drive pulley and depending upon whether one is loosening or tightening the drive pulley nut, then simply rotate the drive pulley until the projecting pins fully insert, enabling at least one of the pins to bind against (I think) the engine casing. Now IF that is true, the nearest I came to attempting something similar was to select the largest diameter DEEP socket that fits through one of the holes in the drive pulley, then rotate the drive pulley until the socket slips through enough to also bind against the engine casing. Adding a socket extension shaft to the socket will help hold the socket in place better whilst working to loosen the 30mm drive pulley nut. May need some more refinement. I have to say though this procedure remains unproven for me as I chickened out on carrying through with it. Someone else willing to try this or some other technique, please let us know here. TIA.
> Cheers.
> Ken
>
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bergodaz@...
> Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 00:32:54 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
>
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> Hi stuart. by special tool i guess you mean the one to stop the pulley from turning.I use a strong screwdriver inserted into a hole in the flywheel.Not how the bentleys describes the procedure but has been effective quite a few times.I would advise a quality tool as a broken bit of screwdriver in the bellhousing would be a pain.Cheers Eddie.
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "stuartparry98" <stuart@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Howdy all.
>
> > I have had to replace the water pump this week - removal has been quite easy as I followed the links from last December (Ken Garrett et al).
>
> > I noticed that there is a bit of oil down there and I think it is a good idea to replace that oil pressure switch whilst the pump is out. I also noticed a water connector hose under the main V belt pulley is looking a bit nasty and feel it needs to be replaced too.
>
> > Heeding Ken's words DO NOT REMOVE MAIN PULLEY is going to be difficult as I cannot see a way to replace this hose without removing the pulley.
>
> >
>
> > My Bentleys book shows that I need a special tool. I saw a thread from Eddie suggesting it isn't necessary. I wonder if anyone has a few tips on the best way to do it and what to watch out for.... any do's and don't and what to look out for. I have looked in the past messages and can't find anything on pulley removal... but maybe there already is.
>
> > If I do need the tool, where can I buy one.... Quickly
>
> >
>
> > Is there anything else I should replace whilst I am at it? I saw mention of a "xmas tree"... not sure what that is?
>
> >
>
> > Thanks in advance.
>
> >
>
> > Stuart
>
> >
>
Eddie - There are two types of pulleys, depending on whether you have air conditioning and power steering or not. The single pulley is easy to remove with the engine in situ, but the double pulley would probably have clearance problems. You might have to remove the rear tinware and possibly even the muffler to do it.

I use a chain wrench to hold pulley. These tools look like a vice-grip with a length of chain attached. They are useful for gripping and clamping all sorts of irregular shapes, and are handy for bush carpentry and welding. I have seen them for sale cheaply in discount auto shops like Super Cheap Auto.

  At a pinch you can make up a tool with a strong leather strap or belt - sort of like a heavy duty version of an oil-filter removal strap. I had to make one up out of my favourite belt for a roadside repair once.

  By the way, the crankshaft pulley from a 2WD will not fit a Syncro without modification. This is because of the special oil seal which is designed to keep water out when crossing rivers. If you fit a 2WD engine into your Syncro, be aware that you should also change the oil seal and pulley - or stay away from water.

  It is possible to install the correct oil-seal flange on a 2WD pulley.

  The 4WD oil seal is horrendously expensive compared to the 2WD version.

  The Christmas Tree is the black plastic coolant-hose junction which is hidden out of sight behind the air filter. You won't need to disturb it when fiddling with the water pump. But if the hoses on the water pump are bulging and sad, it might also be worth grabbing a torch and a pillow to crawl underneath and check the hose between the plastic junction and the cylinder head. They are generally the first to let go, but are easy to replace.

  Have a look at your diff-lock vacuum hoses too!

                                                                         cheers, Roger [Beetle] Bayley.
Eddie,

This tip of yours must be one of the worlds best kept secrets for the WBX 2.1 motor. I wish I'd known about it late last year at the VW Valla Spectacular show when I discovered (by a pure fluke) that my drive pulley was just about to fall off. Luckily for me the host of the show was a VW mechanic and it still took him and I over an hour to complete a re-tighten the pulley nut procedure using nothing but brute force to stop the pulley from turning while re-tightening the nut. Obviously now he didn't know this tip of yours either, if he had, it would have saved a whole lot of time and blood, sweat and near tears.

I should buy a lottery ticket. After pulling the rubber bung and shining a torch inside, I could hardly believe it when there staring back at me was the hole in the flywheel! Too easy. Maybe there is more than just one flywheel hole?

So after some experimenting, I found that a 3/8th" allen key was a perfect fit in the flywheel hole. That flywheel hole is centrally located in the approx. 31mm diameter access hole so sliding the allen key through a 30-31mm outside diameter socket makes for quite a nice snug/stable fit. Even better to reduce any remaining slop, then onto the allen key first, slide a socket that is a friction fit inside the larger socket. Using this combination of allen key and two sockets, its quite an accurate and stable fit, so I'd expect once fitted into place, it wouldn't need to be held while working the 30mm socket and lever on the pulley nut.

Out of a threaded rod and some nuts, washers, metal plate and a deep socket, I'd already made a bushies spreader jig that fits between the engine casing and the rear tinware. Idea being it's an effective way to force back the tinware in a controlled way, far enough to allow a 30mm socket and lever to be inserted into the pulley and onto the pulley nut. Works a treat and makes an otherwise hard job much easier, especially on vans like mine that have the bulky triple drive pulley and don't want to remove/reinstall the tinware.

I presently have no pressing need to try this pulley nut removal/install procedure but I can see now what a fabulous tip this is for anyone needing to work on the drive pulley nut, in particular for those who need to access/loosen/remove/replace that short rubber hose on the crossover coolant pipe or to replace the water pump etc. A brilliant tip to aid some otherwise very difficult maintenance procedures. Thanks a lot Eddie. 

Cheers.

Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 03:36:09 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Your method sounds complicated Ken.My mechanic (vw with 40 odd years of experience) first suggested that I stop the flywheel by jambing a screwdriver between the flywheel teeth and the engine case in the hole at top left , back of engine.I did this first but couldn't get a good solid "grip" using this method so I turned the engine slowly while looking for a point where I could block it.I found a hole approx 8mm dia in the flywheel ,inserted the appropriate size screwdriver, held on to it with one hand whilst tightening or loosening the pulley bolt.Works both ways. Ive done it changing water pumps and more recently, changed my oil pump. My only concern using this method would be dropping a piece of broken screwdriver down into the bellhousing. Sounds like a "bush mechanic's method , but hey, I live in the bush and it works for me.
Cheers Eddie.
--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Eddie,
> I'm interested to understand more clearly your method of constraining the drive pulley using a screwdriver. Could you please expand somewhat on this procedure, in particular where the hole is located to insert the screwdriver and the preferred diameter of screwdriver shaft you use for this procedure. Also, does it work as well for tightening the drive pulley? Any other issues/concerns?
> Someone may confirm/clarify/dissuade this procedure but it seems to me that to stop the drive pulley from turning, the special VW tool has two large circular pins at its rear-side that are inserted through the two holes in the drive pulley and depending upon whether one is loosening or tightening the drive pulley nut, then simply rotate the drive pulley until the projecting pins fully insert, enabling at least one of the pins to bind against (I think) the engine casing. Now IF that is true, the nearest I came to attempting something similar was to select the largest diameter DEEP socket that fits through one of the holes in the drive pulley, then rotate the drive pulley until the socket slips through enough to also bind against the engine casing. Adding a socket extension shaft to the socket will help hold the socket in place better whilst working to loosen the 30mm drive pulley nut. May need some more refinement. I have to say though this procedure remains unproven for me as I chickened out on carrying through with it. Someone else willing to try this or some other technique, please let us know here. TIA.
> Cheers.
> Ken
>
>
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bergodaz@...
> Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 00:32:54 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
>
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> Hi stuart. by special tool i guess you mean the one to stop the pulley from turning.I use a strong screwdriver inserted into a hole in the flywheel.Not how the bentleys describes the procedure but has been effective quite a few times.I would advise a quality tool as a broken bit of screwdriver in the bellhousing would be a pain.Cheers Eddie.
>
>
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "stuartparry98" <stuart@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Howdy all.
>
> > I have had to replace the water pump this week - removal has been quite easy as I followed the links from last December (Ken Garrett et al).
>
> > I noticed that there is a bit of oil down there and I think it is a good idea to replace that oil pressure switch whilst the pump is out. I also noticed a water connector hose under the main V belt pulley is looking a bit nasty and feel it needs to be replaced too.
>
> > Heeding Ken's words DO NOT REMOVE MAIN PULLEY is going to be difficult as I cannot see a way to replace this hose without removing the pulley.
>
> >
>
> > My Bentleys book shows that I need a special tool. I saw a thread from Eddie suggesting it isn't necessary. I wonder if anyone has a few tips on the best way to do it and what to watch out for.... any do's and don't and what to look out for. I have looked in the past messages and can't find anything on pulley removal... but maybe there already is.
>
> > If I do need the tool, where can I buy one.... Quickly
>
> >
>
> > Is there anything else I should replace whilst I am at it? I saw mention of a "xmas tree"... not sure what that is?
>
> >
>
> > Thanks in advance.
>
> >
>
> > Stuart
>
> >
>


You desccribed it better than I could ever hope to , so thanks for confirming what I thought was an easy task. I too, have the bulky triple pulley and a few years ago had an emergency sitution miles from home that led me to enquiring about pulley bolt tightening, and then implementing this method. Glad to hear it works for you too. Cheers Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@...> wrote:
>
>
> Eddie,
> This tip of yours must be one of the worlds best kept secrets for the WBX 2.1 motor. I wish I'd known about it late last year at the VW Valla Spectacular show when I discovered (by a pure fluke) that my drive pulley was just about to fall off. Luckily for me the host of the show was a VW mechanic and it still took him and I over an hour to complete a re-tighten the pulley nut procedure using nothing but brute force to stop the pulley from turning while re-tightening the nut. Obviously now he didn't know this tip of yours either, if he had, it would have saved a whole lot of time and blood, sweat and near tears.
> I should buy a lottery ticket. After pulling the rubber bung and shining a torch inside, I could hardly believe it when there staring back at me was the hole in the flywheel! Too easy. Maybe there is more than just one flywheel hole?
> So after some experimenting, I found that a 3/8th" allen key was a perfect fit in the flywheel hole. That flywheel hole is centrally located in the approx. 31mm diameter access hole so sliding the allen key through a 30-31mm outside diameter socket makes for quite a nice snug/stable fit. Even better to reduce any remaining slop, then onto the allen key first, slide a socket that is a friction fit inside the larger socket. Using this combination of allen key and two sockets, its quite an accurate and stable fit, so I'd expect once fitted into place, it wouldn't need to be held while working the 30mm socket and lever on the pulley nut.
> Out of a threaded rod and some nuts, washers, metal plate and a deep socket, I'd already made a bushies spreader jig that fits between the engine casing and the rear tinware. Idea being it's an effective way to force back the tinware in a controlled way, far enough to allow a 30mm socket and lever to be inserted into the pulley and onto the pulley nut. Works a treat and makes an otherwise hard job much easier, especially on vans like mine that have the bulky triple drive pulley and don't want to remove/reinstall the tinware.
> I presently have no pressing need to try this pulley nut removal/install procedure but I can see now what a fabulous tip this is for anyone needing to work on the drive pulley nut, in particular for those who need to access/loosen/remove/replace that short rubber hose on the crossover coolant pipe or to replace the water pump etc. A brilliant tip to aid some otherwise very difficult maintenance procedures. Thanks a lot Eddie.
> Cheers.
> Ken
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: bergodaz@...
> Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 03:36:09 +0000
> Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your method sounds complicated Ken.My mechanic (vw with 40 odd years of experience) first suggested that I stop the flywheel by jambing a screwdriver between the flywheel teeth and the engine case in the hole at top left , back of engine.I did this first but couldn't get a good solid "grip" using this method so I turned the engine slowly while looking for a point where I could block it.I found a hole approx 8mm dia in the flywheel ,inserted the appropriate size screwdriver, held on to it with one hand whilst tightening or loosening the pulley bolt.Works both ways. Ive done it changing water pumps and more recently, changed my oil pump. My only concern using this method would be dropping a piece of broken screwdriver down into the bellhousing. Sounds like a "bush mechanic's method , but hey, I live in the bush and it works for me.
>
> Cheers Eddie.
>
> --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Ken Garratt <unclekenz@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Eddie,
>
> > I'm interested to understand more clearly your method of constraining the drive pulley using a screwdriver. Could you please expand somewhat on this procedure, in particular where the hole is located to insert the screwdriver and the preferred diameter of screwdriver shaft you use for this procedure. Also, does it work as well for tightening the drive pulley? Any other issues/concerns?
>
> > Someone may confirm/clarify/dissuade this procedure but it seems to me that to stop the drive pulley from turning, the special VW tool has two large circular pins at its rear-side that are inserted through the two holes in the drive pulley and depending upon whether one is loosening or tightening the drive pulley nut, then simply rotate the drive pulley until the projecting pins fully insert, enabling at least one of the pins to bind against (I think) the engine casing. Now IF that is true, the nearest I came to attempting something similar was to select the largest diameter DEEP socket that fits through one of the holes in the drive pulley, then rotate the drive pulley until the socket slips through enough to also bind against the engine casing. Adding a socket extension shaft to the socket will help hold the socket in place better whilst working to loosen the 30mm drive pulley nut. May need some more refinement. I have to say though this procedure remains unproven for me as I chickened out on carrying through with it. Someone else willing to try this or some other technique, please let us know here. TIA.
>
> > Cheers.
>
> > Ken
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: bergodaz@
>
> > Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 00:32:54 +0000
>
> > Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
>
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> > Hi stuart. by special tool i guess you mean the one to stop the pulley from turning.I use a strong screwdriver inserted into a hole in the flywheel.Not how the bentleys describes the procedure but has been effective quite a few times.I would advise a quality tool as a broken bit of screwdriver in the bellhousing would be a pain.Cheers Eddie.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "stuartparry98" <stuart@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Howdy all.
>
> >
>
> > > I have had to replace the water pump this week - removal has been quite easy as I followed the links from last December (Ken Garrett et al).
>
> >
>
> > > I noticed that there is a bit of oil down there and I think it is a good idea to replace that oil pressure switch whilst the pump is out. I also noticed a water connector hose under the main V belt pulley is looking a bit nasty and feel it needs to be replaced too.
>
> >
>
> > > Heeding Ken's words DO NOT REMOVE MAIN PULLEY is going to be difficult as I cannot see a way to replace this hose without removing the pulley.
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > My Bentleys book shows that I need a special tool. I saw a thread from Eddie suggesting it isn't necessary. I wonder if anyone has a few tips on the best way to do it and what to watch out for.... any do's and don't and what to look out for. I have looked in the past messages and can't find anything on pulley removal... but maybe there already is.
>
> >
>
> > > If I do need the tool, where can I buy one.... Quickly
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Is there anything else I should replace whilst I am at it? I saw mention of a "xmas tree"... not sure what that is?
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Thanks in advance.
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Stuart
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
Thanks to all that have offered help on this. Much needed and much appreciated.

Regards,

Stuart

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "stuartparry98" <stuart@...> wrote:
>
> Howdy all.
> I have had to replace the water pump this week - removal has been quite easy as I followed the links from last December (Ken Garrett et al).
> I noticed that there is a bit of oil down there and I think it is a good idea to replace that oil pressure switch whilst the pump is out. I also noticed a water connector hose under the main V belt pulley is looking a bit nasty and feel it needs to be replaced too.
> Heeding Ken's words DO NOT REMOVE MAIN PULLEY is going to be difficult as I cannot see a way to replace this hose without removing the pulley.
>
> My Bentleys book shows that I need a special tool. I saw a thread from Eddie suggesting it isn't necessary. I wonder if anyone has a few tips on the best way to do it and what to watch out for.... any do's and don't and what to look out for. I have looked in the past messages and can't find anything on pulley removal... but maybe there already is.
> If I do need the tool, where can I buy one.... Quickly
>
> Is there anything else I should replace whilst I am at it? I saw mention of a "xmas tree"... not sure what that is?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Stuart
>
Hi Eddie, Ken and all,

Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
Any suggestion appreciated.

Cheers, Theo
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>
Ok, Thank you Eddie looks like I have a bit more work to do.
Cheers, Theo
Theo,

Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?

Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?

I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.

Cheers.

Ken



To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>


Ken,
I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some grief  but the oil pump leaks badly which, has been annoying me for some time now.
I still have the high oil temp. problem so for peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
I agree it will not be easy taking off the muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
Cheers, Theo


At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,

Are you going to try Eddies previously described bushies method for removing the drive pulley?

Also just curious please ... what's happened that you've decided/need to replace the oil pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn pump? Has this happened and if so, how many kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?

I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works fine but most likely would be damaged and hence need replacing if work had to be done that first needed to have the exhaust system removed.

Cheers.

Ken



To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bergodaz@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat & then supported engine and removed the carrier bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
>
> Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> Any suggestion appreciated.
>
> Cheers, Theo
>


Theo,am I mistaken or are you running your bus on LPG? If I,m right I'd guess that the gas would be the cause of high oil temps, only solution as I have recently discovered is an external oil cooler.Good luck with it, Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
> I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
> Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some
> grief but the oil pump leaks badly which, has
> been annoying me for some time now.
> I still have the high oil temp. problem so for
> peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
> I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
> I agree it will not be easy taking off the
> muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
> Cheers, Theo
>
>
> At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >Theo,
> >
> >Are you going to try Eddies previously described
> >bushies method for removing the drive pulley?
> >
> >Also just curious please ... what's happened
> >that you've decided/need to replace the oil
> >pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn
> >pump? Has this happened and if so, how many
> >kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?
> >
> >I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my
> >typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works
> >fine but most likely would be damaged and hence
> >need replacing if work had to be done that first
> >needed to have the exhaust system removed.
> >
> >Cheers.
> >
> >Ken
> >
> >
> >
> >----------
> >To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> >From: bergodaz@...
> >Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
> >Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
> >
> >
> >I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat &
> >then supported engine and removed the carrier
> >bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil
> >pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.
> >
> >--- In
> ><mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,
> >Theo Weiss <teows@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
> > >
> > > Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> > > I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> > > I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> > > Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> > > Any suggestion appreciated.
> > >
> > > Cheers, Theo
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
Eddie, yes I am also running on LPG. Once this job is done and should there be no improvement achived, I will have to consider an
external oil cooler. I had a look on the SPECO web site to see what's available, but where to put it all?
Cheers, Theo


At 09:20 AM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
 

Theo,am I mistaken or are you running your bus on LPG? If I,m right I'd guess that the gas would be the cause of high oil temps, only solution as I have recently discovered is an external oil cooler.Good luck with it, Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
> I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
> Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some
> grief but the oil pump leaks badly which, has
> been annoying me for some time now.
> I still have the high oil temp. problem so for
> peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
> I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
> I agree it will not be easy taking off the
> muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
> Cheers, Theo
>
>
> At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >Theo,
> >
> >Are you going to try Eddies previously described
> >bushies method for removing the drive pulley?
> >
> >Also just curious please ... what's happened
> >that you've decided/need to replace the oil
> >pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn
> >pump? Has this happened and if so, how many
> >kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?
> >
> >I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my
> >typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works
> >fine but most likely would be damaged and hence
> >need replacing if work had to be done that first
> >needed to have the exhaust system removed.
> >
> >Cheers.
> >
> >Ken
> >
> >
> >
> >----------
> >To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> >From: bergodaz@...
> >Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
> >Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought
> >
> >
> >I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat &
> >then supported engine and removed the carrier
> >bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil
> >pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.
> >
> >--- In
> >< mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com > Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,
> >Theo Weiss <teows@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
> > >
> > > Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> > > I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> > > I know, I have to support the engine and remove the engine carrier/support.
> > > Do I also have to remove the muffler and tinware to get to the oil pump?
> > > Any suggestion appreciated.
> > >
> > > Cheers, Theo
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>

Ken,
Thanks for the advice.
Those 4 hoses are on order and also #18 just in case. I will need to
take photos to over come my senior moments.
The oil leaking is not picked up by the pulley, so it seems unlikely
it is the crankshaft oil seal but it is wet all around the oil pump cover.
I also replaced the O ring on the dipstick and make sure it sit in properly.
Ken, when I have all my parts together and master enough courage I
will give it a go
Cheers, Theo.
Quite happy to show you my oil cooler that I purchased as a kit specially made for the snycro, from a guy in the states.I guess if you did a bit of hunting around you could by all the parts & make it yourself, or just order one ready to go from the U.S. Eddie.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, Theo Weiss <teows@...> wrote:
>
> Eddie, yes I am also running on LPG. Once this
> job is done and should there be no improvement
> achived, I will have to consider an
> external oil cooler. I had a look on the SPECO
> web site to see what's available, but where to put it all?
> Cheers, Theo
>
>
> At 09:20 AM 9/05/2011, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >Theo,am I mistaken or are you running your bus
> >on LPG? If I,m right I'd guess that the gas
> >would be the cause of high oil temps, only
> >solution as I have recently discovered is an
> >external oil cooler.Good luck with it, Eddie.
> >
> >--- In
> ><mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com>Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,
> >Theo Weiss <teows@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ken,
> > > I actually will try Roger Bayley's method with the chain wrench first.
> > > Ken, I appreciate that you like to save me some
> > > grief but the oil pump leaks badly which, has
> > > been annoying me for some time now.
> > > I still have the high oil temp. problem so for
> > > peace of mind - a new pump & oil cooler.
> > > I assume the pump is still the original one,255000 km.
> > > I agree it will not be easy taking off the
> > > muffler but I always wanted to have a look inside a catalytic converter ;-)
> > > Cheers, Theo
> > >
> > >
> > > At 10:06 PM 8/05/2011, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Theo,
> > > >
> > > >Are you going to try Eddies previously described
> > > >bushies method for removing the drive pulley?
> > > >
> > > >Also just curious please ... what's happened
> > > >that you've decided/need to replace the oil
> > > >pump? Are their typical indicators of a worn
> > > >pump? Has this happened and if so, how many
> > > >kilometers has the beast done for this to now occur?
> > > >
> > > >I wouldn't relish doing anything to disturb my
> > > >typical rusted on exhaust system. It still works
> > > >fine but most likely would be damaged and hence
> > > >need replacing if work had to be done that first
> > > >needed to have the exhaust system removed.
> > > >
> > > >Cheers.
> > > >
> > > >Ken
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >----------
> > > >To:
> > <mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com>Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > > >From: bergodaz@
> > > >Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 10:27:55 +0000
> > > >Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal
> > of V belt Pulley - advice sought
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >I removed all the tin ware , muffler & cat &
> > > >then supported engine and removed the carrier
> > > >bar .It was the only way I could get to the oil
> > > >pump. Its all pretty basic , but time consuming. Cheers , Eddie.
> > > >
> > > >--- In
> > > ><mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com><
> > mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia%40yahoogroups.com>Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com,
> >
> > > >Theo Weiss <teows@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Eddie, Ken and all,
> > > > >
> > > > > Now it is my turn to have a go at removing the bulky triple pulley.
> > > > > I need to replace the oil pump, water pump,and that short rubber hose.
> > > > > I know, I have to support the engine and
> > remove the engine carrier/support.
> > > > > Do I also have to remove the muffler and
> > tinware to get to the oil pump?
> > > > > Any suggestion appreciated.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheers, Theo
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
Hi Theo
              - if you're going to fit an oil cooler you should consider a high volume oil pump. There's a perfect place to fit a cooler and electric fan under the air intake on the near side of the engine bay.

                                           Cheers, Roger Bayley.

Roger,
Something of a vexed question this nearside vent.

Is it an intake or exhaust? Has anyone carried out tests to establish/confirm which one it is .... when the van is in motion.

Cheers.
Ken


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: Gullyraker@aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 05:38:05 -0400
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: Removal of V belt Pulley - advice sought

 
Hi Theo
              - if you're going to fit an oil cooler you should consider a high volume oil pump. There's a perfect place to fit a cooler and electric fan under the air intake on the near side of the engine bay.

                                           Cheers, Roger Bayley.