removing the dash

1

Hi all,


I have a need to remove the dash in my T3 to get to all the wiring behind. I wondered if anyone had any detailed instructions, or experience in doing this they would be willing to share?


Thanks in advance,

Gaetan

2
you mean like this
3
Check youtube. Not so hard at all.

On Tue, Aug 28, 2018 at 12:31 PM, lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi all,


I have a need to remove the dash in my T3 to get to all the wiring behind. I wondered if anyone had any detailed instructions, or experience in doing this they would be willing to share?


Thanks in advance,

Gaetan




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4
yes that's the idea! I will check utube and see.. was hoping someone might have a detailed Haynes-type description, unfortunately that is missing in their manual!

5
Found some great vids for the top end of the dash, but still can't find anything showing how to remove the black plastic centre console below the dash and in front of the gear shifter, that large bit the diff lock knobs are attached to.
Anyone?
6
Not difficult, but time-consuming - put aside at least a day for the project, or possibly two if you need to repair bodgy wiring. Photograph each step, place parts in labelled bags, and order any parts that you think you might need in advance.

It's a good opportunity to add any extra accessories like additional power outlets, a headlight wiring upgrade, and additional gauges. A voltmeter is a good idea if you are considering camping 'off the grid'.

Also a good opportunity to replace or recondition the clutch and brake master cylinders, and consider fitting the bigger BMW brake booster.

The instrument cluster is fragile and often breaks at the screw attachment points. I believe gowesty makes a repair kit but it is simple to fabricate your own repair.

They also make a nifty overheating alarm, which is cheap insurance for a thirty-year old classic with 18 coolant hoses and numerous plastic components in the cooling system.

Don't forget to check and clean every electrical connection you can get at, including the many earth connections - they are the source of many electrical issues. Check each wire connection individually as they sometimes partially fracture where the wire is crimped to the connector.

Tag and label any non-factory wires. It will save time and money if you ever have to call in an auto-leccy.

enjoy!
7
Great write up Roger.

Also, this video from Go Westy gives a step by step instruction of the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLIsH2yqhoo&feature=youtu.be

Worth a watch as they have good tips.

Cheers,

Scott

On 30/08/2018 5:52 PM, Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
Not difficult, but time-consuming - put aside at least a day for the project, or possibly two if you need to repair bodgy wiring. Photograph each step, place parts in labelled bags, and order any parts that you think you might need in advance.

It's a good opportunity to add any extra accessories like additional power outlets, a headlight wiring upgrade, and additional gauges. A voltmeter is a good idea if you are considering camping 'off the grid'.

Also a good opportunity to replace or recondition the clutch and brake master cylinders, and consider fitting the bigger BMW brake booster.

The instrument cluster is fragile and often breaks at the screw attachment points. I believe gowesty makes a repair kit but it is simple to fabricate your own repair.

They also make a nifty overheating alarm, which is cheap insurance for a thirty-year old classic with 18 coolant hoses and numerous plastic components in the cooling system.

Don't forget to check and clean every electrical connection you can get at, including the many earth connections - they are the source of many electrical issues. Check each wire connection individually as they sometimes partially fracture where the wire is crimped to the connector.

Tag and label any non-factory wires. It will save time and money if you ever have to call in an auto-leccy.

enjoy!

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
8
from memory, the console is located by plastic tabs on each side. Just spread both edges outward with your fingers and it will pop off.
9
Thanks Scott.

Much easier when you see the video.

Peter




On 30 Aug 2018, at 6:44 PM, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Great write up Roger.

Also, this video from Go Westy gives a step by step instruction of the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLIsH2yqhoo&feature=youtu.be

Worth a watch as they have good tips.

Cheers,

Scott

On 30/08/2018 5:52 PM, Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
Not difficult, but time-consuming - put aside at least a day for the project, or possibly two if you need to repair bodgy wiring. Photograph each step, place parts in labelled bags, and order any parts that you think you might need in advance.

It's a good opportunity to add any extra accessories like additional power outlets, a headlight wiring upgrade, and additional gauges. A voltmeter is a good idea if you are considering camping 'off the grid'.

Also a good opportunity to replace or recondition the clutch and brake master cylinders, and consider fitting the bigger BMW brake booster.

The instrument cluster is fragile and often breaks at the screw attachment points. I believe gowesty makes a repair kit but it is simple to fabricate your own repair.

They also make a nifty overheating alarm, which is cheap insurance for a thirty-year old classic with 18 coolant hoses and numerous plastic components in the cooling system.

Don't forget to check and clean every electrical connection you can get at, including the many earth connections - they are the source of many electrical issues. Check each wire connection individually as they sometimes partially fracture where the wire is crimped to the connector. 

Tag and label any non-factory wires. It will save time and money if you ever have to call in an auto-leccy.

enjoy!

-- 
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting



10
Glad it came through.

That post didn't come back to me at all???

This forum is a little strange sometimes.

Cheers,

Scott

On 30/08/2018 11:31 PM, Peter SCHWEINSBERG peter@peterandval.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
Thanks Scott.

Much easier when you see the video.

Peter




On 30 Aug 2018, at 6:44 PM, Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



Great write up Roger.

Also, this video from Go Westy gives a step by step instruction o f the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLIsH2yqhoo&feature=youtu.be

Worth a watch as they have good tips.

Cheers,

Scott

On 30/08/2018 5:52 PM, Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
Not difficult, but time-consuming - put aside at least a day for the project, or possibly two if you need to repair bodgy wiring. Photograph each step, place parts in labelled bags, and order any parts that you think you might need in advance.

It's a good opportunity to add any extra accessories like additional power outlets, a headlight wiring upgrade, and additional gauges. A voltmeter is a good idea if you are considering camping 'off the grid'.

Also a good opportunity to replace or recondition the clutch and brake master cylinders, and consider fitting the bigger BMW brake booster.

The instrument cluster is fragile and often breaks at the screw attachment points. I believe gowe sty makes a repair kit but it is simple to fabricate your own repair.

They also make a nifty overheating alarm, which is cheap insurance for a thirty-year old classic with 18 coolant hoses and numerous plastic components in the cooling system.

Don't forget to check and clean every electrical connection you can get at, including the many earth connections - they are the source of many electrical issues. Check each wire connection individually as they sometimes partially fracture where the wire is crimped to the connector.

Tag and label any non-factory wires. It will save time and money if you ever have to call in an auto-leccy.

enjoy!

--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting




--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
11
Hi Roger,
do you mean that central console I was asking about? I found two screws holding brackets underneath the diff lock knobs box, but can’t find anything securing that plastic console.
I’m thinking the dash needs to come off first to get to it.
What I’m trying to do is get to my wiring to get a much better earth and possibly a different supply point for my cigar lighter, as currently charging a phone through it creates huge interference on the radio.
12
Just took a few pics!

![image1|375x500, 100%](upload://jHt4RK5cyBRRMTyrmr2vyh5OEMq.jpeg) ![image2|375x500](upload://iMQbNNJnNTHNygMZmj5lxUdaB5k.jpeg) ![image3|375x500, 75%](upload://adeb4GAnqzO3XX7MPi8p3QzR8V9.jpeg) ![image4|375x500](upload://lXAdi1JBqhGnxCNOtlb4fhjdCgM.jpeg)

Remove the Difflock console first (incl. the metal bracket). 
Grab the plastic console left and right at the same time and bend it outwards to unlatch the hook (last pic). Slide it towards you. 

Hope this helps

Cheers Arne

13
Arne that's brilliant thank you!

Now to be a real PITA, is there a trick to removing the difflock console? I remove the 2 screws and 90 degrees brackets underneath, but it's not budging? I only have 1 difflock knob fitted, for the rear axle.

Thanks in advance,
Gaetan

14
No worries Gaetan!

For the Difflock console, it‘s just the screws you did remove already. Did you unscrew the knob too?

Cheers Arne

Am 31.08.2018 um 19:38 schrieb lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>:
 

Arne that's brilliant thank you!


Now to be a real PITA, is there a trick to removing the difflock console? I remove the 2 screws and 90 degrees brackets underneath, but it's not budging? I only have 1 difflock knob fitted, for the rear axle.

Thanks in advance,
Gaetan

15
Duh! That would explain it.. does the knob itself just unscrew anticlockwise or does it have a retaining screw?

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:04, Arne kleinersyncro@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

No worries Gaetan!

For the Difflock console, it‘s just the screws you did remove already. Did you unscrew the knob too?

Cheers Arne

Am 31.08.2018 um 19:38 schrieb lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>:
 

Arne that's brilliant thank you!


Now to be a real PITA, is there a trick to removing the difflock console? I remove the 2 screws and 90 degrees brackets underneath, but it's not budging? I only have 1 difflock knob fitted, for the rear axle.

Thanks in advance,
Gaetan

16
The diff lock knob just unscrews anti clockwise.

Easy as.

Cheers,

Scott

On 31/08/2018 8:08 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:

Duh! That would explain it.. does the knob itself just unscrew anticlockwise or does it have a retaining screw?

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:04, Arne kleinersyncro@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

No worries Gaetan!

For the Difflock console, it‘s just the screws you did remove already.. Did you unscrew the knob too?

Cheers Arne

Am 31.08.2018 um 19:38 schrieb lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>:

Arne that's brilliant thank you!


Now to be a real PITA, is there a trick to removing the difflock console? I remove the 2 screws and 90 degrees brackets underneath, but it's not budging? I only have 1 difflock knob fitted, for the rear axle.

Thanks in advance,
Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting
17
Just pull it, take some pliers to hold the shaft (don’t scratch it) an off you go ;)

Cheers 

Am 31.08.2018 um 20:12 schrieb Scott Pitcher spbconsulting@bigpond.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>:

 

The diff lock knob just unscrews anti clockwise.

Easy as.

Cheers,

Scott

On 31/08/2018 8:08 PM, Gaetan Schurrer lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] wrote:
 

Duh! That would explain it.. does the knob itself just unscrew anticlockwise or does it have a retaining screw?

Sent from my iNuke

On 31 Aug 2018, at 18:04, Arne kleinersyncro@yahoo.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 
No worries Gaetan!

For the Difflock console, it‘s just the screws you did remove already.. Did you unscrew the knob too?

Cheers Arne

Am 31.08.2018 um 19:38 schrieb lepews@me.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>:
 

Arne that's brilliant thank you!


Now to be a real PITA, is there a trick to removing the difflock console? I remove the 2 screws and 90 degrees brackets underneath, but it's not budging? I only have 1 difflock knob fitted, for the rear axle.

Thanks in advance,
Gaetan


--
Best regards, Scott Pitcher SPB Consulting

18
Yep, you have to remove the diff-lock panel first, before removing the plastic console by spreading the tabs outward. It took me a while to work it out myself, but simple when you know how.

You don't have to remove the dashboard first.

If you are only worried about fixing the earths and wiring up a new power outlet, you don't need to remove the dashboard at all. The earths (brown wires) all congregate on a round junction screwed to the firewall close to the passenger's door, behind the glovebox. Just remove the glovebox lid by bending the flexy plastic prongs on each sid so it drops down, and clean all the earth connections. Don't forget to unscrew the union from the firewall to clean the screw and screw-hole.

Removing the glovebox will also give you access to the fusebox and relays.

You can access most of the wiring this way, but that damn aerial lead for the stereo is still a bugger to get at unless you remove the instrument console.

I fitted a couple of power outlets at each end of the top of the dashboard, which can easily be reached from underneath without removing any hardware. These work well because the cigarette-lighter plugs are held in by gravity - they don't rattle out - so your GPS doesn't stop working on corrugated roads. Solves the problem of dangling wires.

Another option is to fit one of the multiple consoles that are available at S*****Cheap, which can accept any combination of power plugs and gauges.

The only reason I had to remove my dashboard was to fit the air-con, which was hardly worth the effort anyway.

Cheers.
19

Hi Roger and ALL,

re: "The earths (brown wires) all congregate on a round junction screwed to the firewall close to the passenger's door, behind the glovebox."

and

re: "Don't forget to unscrew the union from the firewall to clean the screw and screw-hole."


In my view a word of caution is prudent here, concerning removal/maintenance of the round junction (cluster) fastened to the sidewall to the left of the fuse box.


Some time ago I remember Graham Adams telling me the trouble he had with removing the screw that holds the cluster in place. It was really tough, like as if it shouldn't be removed, and in hindsight, wished he hadn't done so.

Afterwards, I also was keen to check/clean all earth connections in that area, and likewise, I found the screw to be impossible to remove, so I chose to leave it alone, instead just checked/lubricated all connectors attached to the cluster.

Now in the past there has been some talk about earthing clusters such as this one that upon assembly in the factory, they go through a special process that in effect provides a special bond to the body that ensures a permanent bond for maximum electrical continuity ... provided the cluster/body connection is not compromised .. ie ... separated for reasons of inspection and cleaning.


So unless someone has something to say with veracity to the contrary, I in the meanwhile would suggest caution about removing the cluster. If anyone is still concerned about it, at least first check continuity through the cluster/body joint with a multimeter, before deciding or not to separate it.


Cheers.

Ken


  




From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 31 August 2018 9:20 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: removing the dash
 
 

Yep, you have to remove the diff-lock panel first, before removing the plastic console by spreading the tabs outward. It took me a while to work it out myself, but simple when you know how.

You don't have to remove the dashboard first..

If you are only worried about fixing the earths and wiring up a new power outlet, you don't need to remove the dashboard at all. The earths (brown wires) all congregate on a round junction screwed to the firewall close to the passenger's door, behind the glovebox. Just remove the glovebox lid by bending the flexy plastic prongs on each sid so it drops down, and clean all the earth connections. Don't forget to unscrew the union from the firewall to clean the screw and screw-hole.

Removing the glovebox will also give you access to the fusebox and relays.

You can access most of the wiring this way, but that damn aerial lead for the stereo is still a bugger to get at unless you remove the instrument console.

I fitted a couple of power outlets at each end of the top of the dashboard, which can easily be reached from underneath without removing any hardware. These work well because the cigarette-lighter plugs are held in by gravity - they don't rattle out - so your GPS doesn't stop working on corrugated roads. Solves the problem of dangling wires.

Another option is to fit one of the multiple consoles that are available at S*****Cheap, which can accept any combination of power plugs and gauges.

The only reason I had to remove my dashboard was to fit the air-con, which was hardly worth the effort anyway.

Cheers.

20
Wise words Ken! 

My plan was to separate the earth connection for the cigar lighter and run it as its own wire to a good earth point, ensuring a really good connection for it. Then I was going to test charging with the radio on, and if still problematic, get a separate supply for said lighter, probably a fused wire straight from the auxiliary battery. 

The other idea I had was to fit a couple of USB sockets powered in the same way - bypassing that ol’ cigar lighter thing that’s really not a great connection anyway, and as mentioned already, can be pretty rattly over rough terrain!

Thanks to all for the contributions though!
cheers
Gaetan

LePewSonics

Gaëtan Schurrer

PO Box 285 Claremont WA 6910 Australia

 lepews@me.com

+61 426 813 466

skype: lepews

 

On 31 Aug 2018, at 8:14 pm, Ken Garratt unclekenz@hotmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Hi Roger and ALL,
re: "The earths (brown wires) all congregate on a round junction screwed to the firewall close to the passenger's door, behind the glovebox."
and
re: "Don't forget to unscrew the union from the firewall to clean the screw and screw-hole."

In my view a word of caution is prudent here, concerning removal/maintenance of the round junction (cluster) fastened to the sidewall to the left of the fuse box.

Some time ago I remember Graham Adams telling me the trouble he had with removing the screw that holds the cluster in place. It was really tough, like as if it shouldn't be removed, and in hindsight, wished he hadn't done so.
Afterwards, I also was keen to check/clean all earth connections in that area, and likewise, I found the screw to be impossible to remove, so I chose to leave it alone, instead just checked/lubricated all connectors attached to the cluster.
Now in the past there has been some talk about earthing clusters such as this one that upon assembly in the factory, they go through a special process that in effect provides a special bond to the body that ensures a permanent bond for maximum electrical continuity ... provided the cluster/body connection is not compromised .. ie ... separated for reasons of inspection and cleaning.

So unless someone has something to say with veracity to the contrary, I in the meanwhile would suggest caution about removing the cluster. If anyone is still concerned about it, at least first check continuity through the cluster/body joint with a multimeter, before deciding or not to separate it.

Cheers.
Ken

  




From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Roger Bayley gullyraker53@gmail.com [Syncro_T3_Australia] <Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, 31 August 2018 9:20 PM
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Re: removing the dash
 
 

Yep, you have to remove the diff-lock panel first, before removing the plastic console by spreading the tabs outward. It took me a while to work it out myself, but simple when you know how.

You don't have to remove the dashboard first..

If you are only worried about fixing the earths and wiring up a new power outlet, you don't need to remove the dashboard at all. The earths (brown wires) all congregate on a round junction screwed to the firewall close to the passenger's door, behind the glovebox. Just remove the glovebox lid by bending the flexy plastic prongs on each sid so it drops down, and clean all the earth connections. Don't forget to unscrew the union from the firewall to clean the screw and screw-hole.

Removing the glovebox will also give you access to the fusebox and relays.

You can access most of the wiring this way, but that damn aerial lead for the stereo is still a bugger to get at unless you remove the instrument console.

I fitted a couple of power outlets at each end of the top of the dashboard, which can easily be reached from underneath without removing any hardware. These work well because the cigarette-lighter plugs are held in by gravity - they don't rattle out - so your GPS doesn't stop working on corrugated roads. Solves the problem of dangling wires.

Another option is to fit one of the multiple consoles that are available at S*****Cheap, which can accept any combination of power plugs and gauges.

The only reason I had to remove my dashboard was to fit the air-con, which was hardly worth the effort anyway.

Cheers.