Our Syncro is pretty much ready for a roadworthy inspection. Does anyone have any places they’d recommend?
I’m out Geelong way, but happy to drive to someone who doesn’t hate older vehicles.
I’ll be putting it on club permit.
I’m thinking it’s easiest to leave it as a 2 seater for now. Then get the middle seat installed and engineered later.
The Van also has an LPG dual fuel, with the tank where the rear seat would go. So I’m waiting to see if the LPG can be certified. If not, the tank will come out and I’ll go rear seat in the future.
I dropped our Syncro off this evening for inspection tomorrow at Mawsons. On the drive there, the right rear indicator started playing up, giving the fast flash on the dash, it’s still working but much dimmer than the left. And the idle is getting wosre, it stummbled to a stop a couple of times when I was at the lights. I felt pretty embarrassed dropping off a vehicle that has at least 1 dodgy bulb/earth and idles poorly. But i didn’t have time to even pop the hatch and have a look. I had skipped off work early so I could get there by 5pm.
I had a nice 27km bicycle ride home to Lara.
Hopefully there aren’t any majoy issues, as they are booked out for repairs for over 2 weeks, which is how long you have to rectify before needing to pay for a new test. Pray with me
Besides the idle it drove fine, no shacking or odd handling behaviour.
It didn’t do too badly.
1 rear shock leaking.
Rear drums worn out, so new pads drums and cylinders.
Label the horn button on the dash.
But potentially the most time consuming is oil leaks on front diff and transaxle.
After I rebuilt the VC and installed the front diff, I noticed 1 seam was damp, but it didn’t drip in the driveway. But I didn’t look under after driving 25km to the roadie, so maybe it’s coming out a shaft seal.
I’ll have a better idea tomorrow after I collect it.
But it won’t see it’s debut at Dubfest this year.
Which means I have to weld up the exhaust on the beetle after it lost a fight with a tree root in the driveway.
I’ve ordered $1000 worth of rear brakes, shocks, oil and water temp senders, a set of spark plugs and oil filter.
I’ll be trying to run the engine with the low oil pressure buzzer circuit reinstalled. I’ll try 20w60 penrite classic.
I’m also wondering if the aftermarket digital water temp gauge is upsetting the fuel injection management.
The engine starts easily from cold, but the warmer it gets the more the idle surges and stumbles until it stalls.
I would have ordered an O2 sensor, but they were out of stock at JK. I’ll see if I can find one elsewhere.
I’ve already replaced the IAC and that improved the idle slightly.
