Sarter Motor

1
Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry
2
You may be able to get the old one reconditioned for less, try a local auto electrician.

Gary


On 06/05/2010, at 11:41 AM, harryschrepfer wrote:

 

Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry


3
Thanks Gary,
I tryed that avenue but so far no luck.
harry

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 6 May, 2010 11:56:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor

 

You may be able to get the old one reconditioned for less, try a local auto electrician.


Gary


On 06/05/2010, at 11:41 AM, harryschrepfer wrote:

 

Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry



 
4
Ours died recently, and we had it replaced for less than that (inclusive of labour) here in Melbourne. It was replaced with a new one, but our mechanic knew of somewhere local that could reliably recondition.

Francesca.

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:15 PM, Harry Schrepfer <harryschrepfer@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

Thanks Gary,
I tryed that avenue but so far no luck.
harry

From: Gary Cookson <gary@twentytwentyone.net>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 6 May, 2010 11:56:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor

You may be able to get the old one reconditioned for less, try a local auto electrician.


Gary


On 06/05/2010, at 11:41 AM, harryschrepfer wrote:

Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry




5

Harry,

From memory, you are in Tasmania .  If so, it would still be worth the trouble of sending it to Volkwerke (see the Workshop Directory in Files) in Melbourne [I assume this is the place that Francesca used] to be reconditioned. 

The key words here are “reliably recondition”.  Volkwerke would have a long established arrangement with someone they can trust.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Francesca Coles
Sent: 06 May 2010 12:43
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Starter Motor

Ours died recently, and we had it replaced for less than that (inclusive of labour) here in Melbourne . It was replaced with a new one, but our mechanic knew of somewhere local that could reliably recondition.

Francesca.  

 

 

6
Sorry, my memory didn't serve me adequately there. In fact it was replaced by a reconditioned starter motor, not a new one. Itemised on the bill from Volkwerke, the cost of reconditioning was just over $300. Still going strong... I could drop them a line to find out who they use, if that's any help.

Francesca.

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Les Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Harry,

From memory, you are in Tasmania. If so, it would still be worth the trouble of sending it to Volkwerke (see the Workshop Directory in Files) in Melbourne [I assume this is the place that Francesca used] to be reconditioned.

The key words here are “reliably recondition”. Volkwerke would have a long established arrangement with someone they can trust.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Francesca Coles
Sent: 06 May 2010 12:43
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Starter Motor

Ours died recently, and we had it replaced for less than that (inclusive of labour) here in Melbourne. It was replaced with a new one, but our mechanic knew of somewhere local that could reliably recondition.

Francesca.


7

Francesca,

You used ‘new’ and ‘reconditioned’ in the same sentence but I settled on the reconditioned because I think the new ones became NLA some time ago.  Lloyd would have a well-established link with a good auto electrician in his arsenal.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Francesca Coles
Sent: 06 May 2010 13:02
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Starter Motor

 

Sorry, my memory didn't serve me adequately there. In fact it was replaced by a reconditioned starter motor, not a new one. Itemised on the bill from Volkwerke, the cost of reconditioning was just over $300. Still going strong... I could drop them a line to find out who they use, if that's any help.

Francesca.

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Les Harris <leslieharris@ optusnet. com.au> wrote:

 

Harry,

From memory, you are in Tasmania .  If so, it would still be worth the trouble of sending it to Volkwerke (see the Workshop Directory in Files) in Melbourne [I assume this is the place that Francesca used] to be reconditioned. 

The key words here are “reliably recondition”.  Volkwerke would have a long established arrangement with someone they can trust.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Francesca Coles
Sent: 06 May 2010 12:43
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Starter Motor

Ours died recently, and we had it replaced for less than that (inclusive of labour) here in Melbourne . It was replaced with a new one, but our mechanic knew of somewhere local that could reliably recondition.

Francesca.  

8
Pardon my oxymoron. I wasn't sure because Lloyd seems to be able to lay his hands on the odd NLA part, having been in the business for many years and having a workshop stuffed to the gills.

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 1:09 PM, Les Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Francesca,

You used ‘new’ and ‘reconditioned’ in the same sentence but I settled on the reconditioned because I think the new ones became NLA some time ago. Lloyd would have a well-established link with a good auto electrician in his arsenal.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Francesca Coles
Sent: 06 May 2010 13:02


To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Starter Motor

Sorry, my memory didn't serve me adequately there. In fact it was replaced by a reconditioned starter motor, not a new one. Itemised on the bill from Volkwerke, the cost of reconditioning was just over $300. Still going strong... I could drop them a line to find out who they use, if that's any help.

Francesca.

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Les Harris <leslieharris@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Harry,

From memory, you are in Tasmania. If so, it would still be worth the trouble of sending it to Volkwerke (see the Workshop Directory in Files) in Melbourne [I assume this is the place that Francesca used] to be reconditioned.

The key words here are “reliably recondition”. Volkwerke would have a long established arrangement with someone they can trust.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Francesca Coles
Sent: 06 May 2010 12:43
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Starter Motor

Ours died recently, and we had it replaced for less than that (inclusive of labour) here in Melbourne. It was replaced with a new one, but our mechanic knew of somewhere local that could reliably recondition.

Francesca.


9
Harry,
You can get a starter motor from a 2 litre air cooled kombi to fit, much cheaper and easier to get new for around $300.00
Doone

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 11:41 AM, harryschrepfer <harryschrepfer@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry


10
Hey Harry..

Is your van running a diff lock?? be very careful where you take it to as some people are unaware of the damage  that can be cause if they have 'no idea' on what they are doing.  My electrics mechanic took my diff lock mechanism out then back in to do the starter and bent the servo shaft... broke the diff lock basically.  I hear the you don't even need to touch the diff lock mechanism (blue thing hanging off the diff) to repair/replace the starter..  bad luck for me though $650 plus broken diff lock = awesome!!

From: Doone Wyborn <doone.wyborn@gmail.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 6 May, 2010 10:17:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor

 

Harry,
 
You can get a starter motor from a 2 litre air cooled kombi to fit, much cheaper and easier to get new for around $300.00
 
Doone

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 11:41 AM, harryschrepfer <harryschrepfer@ yahoo.com. au> wrote:
 

Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry



 
11

Harry,

It is probably far safer to change the starter motor yourself.  It only takes one little slip to write off the vacuum actuator for the diff lock and the only safe way is to remove it to do the change-over.

Reassembly of the vacuum actuator has to be done very carefully.  It is all to easy to bend the actuator shaft or, worse still, break the end of it off when inserting the roll pin.

If you haven’t got a copy of Bentleys, pmail me.

Les

From: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com [mailto: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Bartley Olsen
Sent: 07 May 2010 13:22
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Starter Motor

 

 

Hey Harry..

Is your van running a diff lock?? be very careful where you take it to as some people are unaware of the damage  that can be cause if they have 'no idea' on what they are doing.  My electrics mechanic took my diff lock mechanism out then back in to do the starter and bent the servo shaft... broke the diff lock basically.  I hear the you don't even need to touch the diff lock mechanism (blue thing hanging off the diff) to repair/replace the starter..  bad luck for me though $650 plus broken diff lock = awesome!!


 

12
All,
Yes I think knowing the correct procedure to R&R a starter motor with the adjacent diflock actuator and its bracket in place and without lowering the transmission would be a useful thing to know and accurately record for posterity. I've done it OK with one bolt holding the actuator bracket in place hence making it simpler to remove so as to make room for extracting/reinstalling the starter, but looks pretty tricky when both actuator bracket bolts are in. Or am I missing something here?
 
Anyone? TIA.
Ken
 
To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
From: bartleyolsen@yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 20:21:32 -0700
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor

 
Hey Harry..

Is your van running a diff lock?? be very careful where you take it to as some people are unaware of the damage  that can be cause if they have 'no idea' on what they are doing.  My electrics mechanic took my diff lock mechanism out then back in to do the starter and bent the servo shaft... broke the diff lock basically.  I hear the you don't even need to touch the diff lock mechanism (blue thing hanging off the diff) to repair/replace the starter..  bad luck for me though $650 plus broken diff lock = awesome!!

From: Doone Wyborn <doone.wyborn@ gmail.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thu, 6 May, 2010 10:17:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Sarter Motor

 


Harry,
 
You can get a starter motor from a 2 litre air cooled kombi to fit, much cheaper and easier to get new for around $300.00
 
Doone

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 11:41 AM, harryschrepfer <harryschrepfer@ yahoo.com. au> wrote:
 
Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry




 

Australia's #1 job site If It Exists, You'll Find it on SEEK
13

I'm pretty sure you have to remove the diff lock actuator to remove the starter from a syncro vanagon.
Even if the engine/trans entire unit was not installed in the van, the diff lock actuator is in the way or removing the starter.
I just went to look even....but that one is a diesel syncro, so don't have a waterboxer gasoline one to look at right now..
but I'm pretty sure .....gotta remove that actuator.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor

 

Hey Harry..

Is your van running a diff lock?? be very careful where you take it to as some people are unaware of the damage  that can be cause if they have 'no idea' on what they are doing.  My electrics mechanic took my diff lock mechanism out then back in to do the starter and bent the servo shaft... broke the diff lock basically.  I hear the you don't even need to touch the diff lock mechanism (blue thing hanging off the diff) to repair/replace the starter..  bad luck for me though $650 plus broken diff lock = awesome!!

From: Doone Wyborn <doone.wyborn@ gmail.com>
To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thu, 6 May, 2010 10:17:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Sarter Motor

 

Harry,
 
You can get a starter motor from a 2 litre air cooled kombi to fit, much cheaper and easier to get new for around $300.00
 
Doone

On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 11:41 AM, harryschrepfer <harryschrepfer@ yahoo.com. au> wrote:
 

Hi all,
my new engine runs very good, but my starter motor has given up it's gost.got a quote for $869. Any idea where I could get one cheaper?
Thanks Harry



 

14
Hi Ken,
I would not even consider trying to remove a synco starter without lowering
the back of the engine.

not hard to do at all either ...just the outer bolts on the rear carrier
bar.
oh ...well,, skid plate...PIA but it has to be removed first of course ..
then 'just lower the rear of the engine' ...
by undoing the bolts from frame to rrear engine carrier bar.

the back will go down 6 inches or more, easily ....watch hoses and wires of
course...and throttle cable..
but VW built it so it's easy to lower the rear of the engine.

then you can see what you're dealing with in the starter area.

btw...if you ever go to 'just remove the transmission' ...like to replace
the clutch.
do the above procedure first, to remove the starter,
then raise the rear of the engine back up ....don't need to tighten the
bolts of course, just start them on the treads. ( even better, hang it by 2
or 3 inch longer bolts, so the engine is lower than normal )
then...lower front of trans ( after doing linkage, axles, etc ) ...
and the trans will come right off, leaving the engine pretty much fully
connected and in place. No need to drain coolant, etc.

But don't try taking off the trans first without removing the starter with
this 'lower the rear of the engine' method..
the starter will hang up horribly on the fuel tan insulation ....
a real mess - been there, done that.

Yeah, just lower the back of the engine some. Makes it 300 % easier.
As I said, I would not even dream of trying to work on that area without
lowering the rear of the engine.
Then you have reaonably decent access to both stater and diff lock actuator.

I sure wish they mad make that whole thing easier to deal with.
I have been tempted to rig up some heavy duty boat/marine cable, to move
that pin in and out manualy from the cockpit, and never have to touch it to
R & R the starter..
or even a whole other setup using an electrical solenoid or *something* !

and I appreciate the push-pull nature of the vaccum actuator ...not bad at
all.
Just wish they would have not had it tangled up with the starter. A real
PIA as we Yanks say. ( or PITA )

Scott
www.turbovans.com



----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Garratt " <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
To: <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 5:31 PM
Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor


> Scott and All,
> Ok thanks a lot, yes I agree.
> So let's cut to the chase, here's my unresolved issue.
> Say 3 years ago when I had to R&R the starter and realising the diflock
> actuator and its bracket must be removed first to make room to pull it, on
> closer examination I could achieve that at that time only because only the
> more accessible actuator bracket bolt was in place holding the bracket in
> place so simple to remove. Meaning the other virtually inaccessible hence
> unremovable bracket bolt had previously been left off at some previous
> time by persons unknown. Meaning someone else prior had discovered the
> same R&R problem so they simply worked around it in this way ... left the
> too hard bolt off. At the time, that was ok because my diflock system
> wasn't fully installed but now it is, meaning both bolts now need to be in
> place.
>
> All of that now begs the question. Without lowering the transaxle to gain
> freer access, how does one now get at the virtually inaccessible bracket
> bolt so that the whole actuator assembly can be removed first to provide
> enough clearance to R&R the starter? And the same problem occurs when
> re-installing.
> As I asked before, am I missing something? Perhaps my removal/install step
> sequence is wrong. Or is it in fact impossible to R&R the starter with the
> transaxle left in place due to the inability to remove the actuator
> assembly because of this one particular inaccessible/unremovable actuator
> bracket bolt?
>
> No wonder I can no longer sleep at night haha.
>
> Any thoughts? TIA.
> Cheers.
> Ken
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com>
> Sent: Saturday, 8 May 2010 3:26 AM
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
>
>
>
> [The entire original message is not included]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
15
Scott,
Are you trying really hard to make my life a misery? haha
 
Thanks a lot anyway and I shall duly note all your valid points for future/ongoing reference.
 
As well, do any/all of the Oz syncro owners with a rear diflock agree that Scotts method is THE accepted/normal/usual method to R&R the starter motor? Or is there perhaps as well an alternate and ideally simpler solution? I'm sure we all would benefit from knowing what tested alternative/s, if any, are possible.
 
Anyone? TIA.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 

 
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> From: ScottDaniel@turbovans.com
> Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 19:00:30 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
>
> Hi Ken,
> I would not even consider trying to remove a synco starter without lowering
> the back of the engine.
>
> not hard to do at all either ...just the outer bolts on the rear carrier
> bar.
> oh ...well,, skid plate...PIA but it has to be removed first of course ..
> then 'just lower the rear of the engine' ...
> by undoing the bolts from frame to rrear engine carrier bar.
>
> the back will go down 6 inches or more, easily ....watch hoses and wires of
> course...and throttle cable..
> but VW built it so it's easy to lower the rear of the engine.
>
> then you can see what you're dealing with in the starter area.
>
> btw...if you ever go to 'just remove the transmission' ...like to replace
> the clutch.
> do the above procedure first, to remove the starter,
> then raise the rear of the engine back up ....don't need to tighten the
> bolts of course, just start them on the treads. ( even better, hang it by 2
> or 3 inch longer bolts, so the engine is lower than normal )
> then...lower front of trans ( after doing linkage, axles, etc ) ...
> and the trans will come right off, leaving the engine pretty much fully
> connected and in place. No need to drain coolant, etc.
>
> But don't try taking off the trans first without removing the starter with
> this 'lower the rear of the engine' method..
> the starter will hang up horribly on the fuel tan insulation ....
> a real mess - been there, done that.
>
> Yeah, just lower the back of the engine some. Makes it 300 % easier.
> As I said, I would not even dream of trying to work on that area without
> lowering the rear of the engine.
> Then you have reaonably decent access to both stater and diff lock actuator.
>
> I sure wish they had made that whole thing easier to deal with.
> I have been tempted to rig up some heavy duty boat/marine cable, to move
> that pin in and out manually from the cockpit, and never have to touch it to
> R & R the starter..
> or even a whole other setup using an electrical solenoid or *something* !
>
> and I appreciate the push-pull nature of the vaccum actuator ...not bad at
> all.
> Just wish they would have not had it tangled up with the starter. A real
> PIA as we Yanks say. ( or PITA )
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Garratt " <unclekenz@hotmail.com>
> To: <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 5:31 PM
> Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
>
>
> > Scott and All,
> > Ok thanks a lot, yes I agree.
> > So let's cut to the chase, here's my unresolved issue.
> > Say 3 years ago when I had to R&R the starter and realising the diflock
> > actuator and its bracket must be removed first to make room to pull it, on
> > closer examination I could achieve that at that time only because only the
> > more accessible actuator bracket bolt was in place holding the bracket in
> > place so simple to remove. Meaning the other virtually inaccessible hence
> > unremovable bracket bolt had previously been left off at some previous
> > time by persons unknown. Meaning someone else prior had discovered the
> > same R&R problem so they simply worked around it in this way ... left the
> > too hard bolt off. At the time, that was ok because my diflock system
> > wasn't fully installed but now it is, meaning both bolts now need to be in
> > place.
> >
> > All of that now begs the question. Without lowering the transaxle to gain
> > freer access, how does one now get at the virtually inaccessible bracket
> > bolt so that the whole actuator assembly can be removed first to provide
> > enough clearance to R&R the starter? And the same problem occurs when
> > re-installing.
> > As I asked before, am I missing something? Perhaps my removal/install step
> > sequence is wrong. Or is it in fact impossible to R&R the starter with the
> > transaxle left in place due to the inability to remove the actuator
> > assembly because of this one particular inaccessible/unremovable actuator
> > bracket bolt?
> >
> > No wonder I can no longer sleep at night haha.
> >
> > Any thoughts? TIA.
> > Cheers.
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@turbovans.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, 8 May 2010 3:26 AM
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
> >
> >
> >
> > [The entire original message is not included]
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/
>
> <*> Your email settings:
> Individual Email | Traditional
>
> <*> To change settings online go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Syncro_T3_Australia/join
> (Yahoo! ID required)
>
> <*> To change settings via email:
> Syncro_T3_Australia-digest@yahoogroups.com
> Syncro_T3_Australia-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Syncro_T3_Australia-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

Find it on Domain.com.au Need a new place to live?
16
I'm of two minds on hard to access things ...
on the one hand, 'sometimes' it pays to just 'sneak in there' and do 'micro work' in a tight space. Like a surgeon would.
 
on the other hand ...it's so nice to make yourself nice working room.
 
I am also figuring on decent working conditions and equipment - at the minimum ...
flat hard level floor with a roof over it, floor jack or two, and at least 4 heavy duty good-sized jack stands.
Then you can do something actually, without it being a real struggle.
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 2:08 AM
Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor

 

Scott,
Are you trying really hard to make my life a misery? haha
 
Thanks a lot anyway and I shall duly note all your valid points for future/ongoing reference.
 
As well, do any/all of the Oz syncro owners with a rear diflock agree that Scotts method is THE accepted/normal/ usual method to R&R the starter motor? Or is there perhaps as well an alternate and ideally simpler solution? I'm sure we all would benefit from knowing what tested alternative/ s, if any, are possible.
 
Anyone? TIA.
 
Cheers.
Ken
 
 

 
> To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
> From: ScottDaniel@ turbovans. com
> Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 19:00:30 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Sarter Motor
>
> Hi Ken,
> I would not even consider trying to remove a synco starter without lowering
> the back of the engine.
>
> not hard to do at all either ...just the outer bolts on the rear carrier
> bar.
> oh ...well,, skid plate...PIA but it has to be removed first of course ..
> then 'just lower the rear of the engine' ...
> by undoing the bolts from frame to rrear engine carrier bar.
>
> the back will go down 6 inches or more, easily ....watch hoses and wires of
> course...and throttle cable..
> but VW built it so it's easy to lower the rear of the engine.
>
> then you can see what you're dealing with in the starter area.
>
> btw...if you ever go to 'just remove the transmission' ...like to replace
> the clutch.
> do the above procedure first, to remove the starter,
> then raise the rear of the engine back up ....don't need to tighten the
> bolts of course, just start them on the treads. ( even better, hang it by 2
> or 3 inch longer bolts, so the engine is lower than normal )
> then...lower front of trans ( after doing linkage, axles, etc ) ...
> and the trans will come right off, leaving the engine pretty much fully
> connected and in place. No need to drain coolant, etc.
>
> But don't try taking off the trans first without removing the starter with
> this 'lower the rear of the engine' method..
> the starter will hang up horribly on the fuel tan insulation ....
> a real mess - been there, done that.
>
> Yeah, just lower the back of the engine some. Makes it 300 % easier.
> As I said, I would not even dream of trying to work on that area without
> lowering the rear of the engine.
> Then you have reaonably decent access to both stater and diff lock actuator.
>
> I sure wish they had made that whole thing easier to deal with.
> I have been tempted to rig up some heavy duty boat/marine cable, to move
> that pin in and out manually from the cockpit, and never have to touch it to
> R & R the starter..
> or even a whole other setup using an electrical solenoid or *something* !
>
> and I appreciate the push-pull nature of the vaccum actuator ...not bad at
> all.
> Just wish they would have not had it tangled up with the starter. A real
> PIA as we Yanks say. ( or PITA )
>
> Scott
> www.turbovans. com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Garratt " <unclekenz@hotmail. com>
> To: <syncro_t3_australia @yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 5:31 PM
> Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Sarter Motor
>
>
> > Scott and All,
> > Ok thanks a lot, yes I agree.
> > So let's cut to the chase, here's my unresolved issue.
> > Say 3 years ago when I had to R&R the starter and realising the diflock
> > actuator and its bracket must be removed first to make room to pull it, on
> > closer examination I could achieve that at that time only because only the
> > more accessible actuator bracket bolt was in place holding the bracket in
> > place so simple to remove. Meaning the other virtually inaccessible hence
> > unremovable bracket bolt had previously been left off at some previous
> > time by persons unknown. Meaning someone else prior had discovered the
> > same R&R problem so they simply worked around it in this way ... left the
> > too hard bolt off. At the time, that was ok because my diflock system
> > wasn't fully installed but now it is, meaning both bolts now need to be in
> > place.
> >
> > All of that now begs the question. Without lowering the transaxle to gain
> > freer access, how does one now get at the virtually inaccessible bracket
> > bolt so that the whole actuator assembly can be removed first to provide
> > enough clearance to R&R the starter? And the same problem occurs when
> > re-installing.
> > As I asked before, am I missing something? Perhaps my removal/install step
> > sequence is wrong. Or is it in fact impossible to R&R the starter with the
> > transaxle left in place due to the inability to remove the actuator
> > assembly because of this one particular inaccessible/ unremovable actuator
> > bracket bolt?
> >
> > No wonder I can no longer sleep at night haha.
> >
> > Any thoughts? TIA.
> > Cheers.
> > Ken
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@ turbovans. com>
> > Sent: Saturday, 8 May 2010 3:26 AM
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia @yahoogroups. com
> > Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australi a] Sarter Motor
> >
> >
> >
> > [The entire original message is not included]
> >
> >
> > ------------ --------- --------- ------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/Syncro_ T3_Australia/
>
> <*> Your email settings:
> Individual Email | Traditional
>
> <*> To change settings online go to:
> http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/Syncro_ T3_Australia/ join
> (Yahoo! ID required)
>
> <*> To change settings via email:
> Syncro_T3_Australia -digest@yahoogro ups.com
> Syncro_T3_Australia -fullfeatured@ yahoogroups. com
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Syncro_T3_Australia -unsubscribe@ yahoogroups. com
>
> <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs. yahoo.com/ info/terms/
>

Find it on Domain.com.au Need a new place to live?

17
If it looks like it is in the way,remove it.Thats a method I use when working on my Syncro.
I have always removed the diff lock actuator when removing the starter or gearbox.

--- In Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
>
> I'm of two minds on hard to access things ...
> on the one hand, 'sometimes' it pays to just 'sneak in there' and do 'micro work' in a tight space. Like a surgeon would.
>
> on the other hand ...it's so nice to make yourself nice working room.
>
> I am also figuring on decent working conditions and equipment - at the minimum ...
> flat hard level floor with a roof over it, floor jack or two, and at least 4 heavy duty good-sized jack stands.
> Then you can do something actually, without it being a real struggle.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Garratt
> To: Syncro _T3_Australia forum
> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 2:08 AM
> Subject: RE: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
>
>
>
> Scott,
> Are you trying really hard to make my life a misery? haha
>
> Thanks a lot anyway and I shall duly note all your valid points for future/ongoing reference.
>
> As well, do any/all of the Oz syncro owners with a rear diflock agree that Scotts method is THE accepted/normal/usual method to R&R the starter motor? Or is there perhaps as well an alternate and ideally simpler solution? I'm sure we all would benefit from knowing what tested alternative/s, if any, are possible.
>
> Anyone? TIA.
>
> Cheers.
> Ken
>
>
>
>
> > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > From: ScottDaniel@...
> > Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 19:00:30 -0700
> > Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
> >
> > Hi Ken,
> > I would not even consider trying to remove a synco starter without lowering
> > the back of the engine.
> >
> > not hard to do at all either ...just the outer bolts on the rear carrier
> > bar.
> > oh ...well,, skid plate...PIA but it has to be removed first of course ..
> > then 'just lower the rear of the engine' ...
> > by undoing the bolts from frame to rrear engine carrier bar.
> >
> > the back will go down 6 inches or more, easily ....watch hoses and wires of
> > course...and throttle cable..
> > but VW built it so it's easy to lower the rear of the engine.
> >
> > then you can see what you're dealing with in the starter area.
> >
> > btw...if you ever go to 'just remove the transmission' ...like to replace
> > the clutch.
> > do the above procedure first, to remove the starter,
> > then raise the rear of the engine back up ....don't need to tighten the
> > bolts of course, just start them on the treads. ( even better, hang it by 2
> > or 3 inch longer bolts, so the engine is lower than normal )
> > then...lower front of trans ( after doing linkage, axles, etc ) ...
> > and the trans will come right off, leaving the engine pretty much fully
> > connected and in place. No need to drain coolant, etc.
> >
> > But don't try taking off the trans first without removing the starter with
> > this 'lower the rear of the engine' method..
> > the starter will hang up horribly on the fuel tan insulation ....
> > a real mess - been there, done that.
> >
> > Yeah, just lower the back of the engine some. Makes it 300 % easier.
> > As I said, I would not even dream of trying to work on that area without
> > lowering the rear of the engine.
> > Then you have reaonably decent access to both stater and diff lock actuator.
> >
> > I sure wish they had made that whole thing easier to deal with.
> > I have been tempted to rig up some heavy duty boat/marine cable, to move
> > that pin in and out manually from the cockpit, and never have to touch it to
> > R & R the starter..
> > or even a whole other setup using an electrical solenoid or *something* !
> >
> > and I appreciate the push-pull nature of the vaccum actuator ...not bad at
> > all.
> > Just wish they would have not had it tangled up with the starter. A real
> > PIA as we Yanks say. ( or PITA )
> >
> > Scott
> > www.turbovans.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ken Garratt " <unclekenz@...>
> > To: <syncro_t3_australia@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 5:31 PM
> > Subject: FW: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
> >
> >
> > > Scott and All,
> > > Ok thanks a lot, yes I agree.
> > > So let's cut to the chase, here's my unresolved issue.
> > > Say 3 years ago when I had to R&R the starter and realising the diflock
> > > actuator and its bracket must be removed first to make room to pull it, on
> > > closer examination I could achieve that at that time only because only the
> > > more accessible actuator bracket bolt was in place holding the bracket in
> > > place so simple to remove. Meaning the other virtually inaccessible hence
> > > unremovable bracket bolt had previously been left off at some previous
> > > time by persons unknown. Meaning someone else prior had discovered the
> > > same R&R problem so they simply worked around it in this way ... left the
> > > too hard bolt off. At the time, that was ok because my diflock system
> > > wasn't fully installed but now it is, meaning both bolts now need to be in
> > > place.
> > >
> > > All of that now begs the question. Without lowering the transaxle to gain
> > > freer access, how does one now get at the virtually inaccessible bracket
> > > bolt so that the whole actuator assembly can be removed first to provide
> > > enough clearance to R&R the starter? And the same problem occurs when
> > > re-installing.
> > > As I asked before, am I missing something? Perhaps my removal/install step
> > > sequence is wrong. Or is it in fact impossible to R&R the starter with the
> > > transaxle left in place due to the inability to remove the actuator
> > > assembly because of this one particular inaccessible/unremovable actuator
> > > bracket bolt?
> > >
> > > No wonder I can no longer sleep at night haha.
> > >
> > > Any thoughts? TIA.
> > > Cheers.
> > > Ken
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@...>
> > > Sent: Saturday, 8 May 2010 3:26 AM
> > > To: Syncro_T3_Australia@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: Re: [Syncro_T3_Australia] Sarter Motor
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [The entire original message is not included]
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Find it on Domain.com.au Need a new place to live?
>